Toyota - Highlander-hybrid :: A/C Stops Cooling When Outside Temperature Reading Exceeds 107 Degrees
Jul 1, 2015
I read in a different vehicle forum that, in vehicles where the A/C condenser is mounted in front of the engine coolant radiator, when the engine coolant temperature reaches some near-overheat limit, the onboard system disengages the A/C compressor clutch so its condenser does not preheat airflow going to the radiator in an attempt to avoid overheating.
Is this the case with the Toyota Highlander (and specifically in a 2008 Hybrid Limited)???
I've recently been experiencing loss of A/C cooling when the center console outside temperature exceeds about 107 and the dashboard coolant temperature gauge is almost midway up towards H, but still closer to C. But once the outside temp reading drops back below 107, and I restart the vehicle, the A/C is once again cool.
Since coolant temperature is likely is impacted by higher outside temperatures, might the coolant temperature sender be failing or simply aged such that it is out of calibration, falsely indicating too high a reading?
How difficult is it to replace the coolant temperature sensor? Where is it located (in case it's just a corroded connection!)?
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I have a 2005 Toyota Avalon. The radio will not come on if the temperature is 40 degrees or below. I have to turn on the heater for several minutes and then it will come on fine. WTH? This have been going on for years. Not a problem in Mississippi but bums me out in Denver!
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Looking to buy a used bmw x3 (75K miles) 2006 model versus a toyota highlander limited hybrid 2010 with 65K miles. The bmw is priced at 14K, while the highlander is priced at 26K. Both cars drive good, clean records. However the hybrid I fear has hidden costs.
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My 2007 5.7 Toyota Tundra has developed a quirky habit when the outside temperature is lower than 50 degrees, the transmission fails to change gear ratios properly until such time as the truck warms up. In other words, for the first several blocks leaving home in the morning, the Tachometer reads 2,000 at 30 MPH, but when it warms up, the tach will drop to 1200 to 1500 at 30 MPH. The truck started doing this around 40,000 miles. It now has 53,000 miles and my warranty will expire at 60,000 miles. The dealer tells me that the failure of the transmission shifting properly when cold is NOT an indication that my transmission might be in the need of repair or adjustment.
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I just bought (ten days ago) a 2009 Highlander Hybrid Limited, hoping to take advantage of the very good MPG advertised by Toyota. The vehicle has 70,000 miles and in pretty good condition.
The problem is that I have a terrible 13-14 MPG. I did some research and I can not find what is wrong. I do everything by the book. No abrupt acceleration or braking. No AC. I drive only in city.
The batteries levels are good according to what I can see on screen.
I am a little worried because even for a regular gas engine Highlander 13 MPG is pretty bad !
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I was on highway and suddenly my 06 highlander hybride stalled and i saw the msg as "Hybride failed"and "VCF failed, I towed my car to dealer and staying in Motel, why this happen and how should I deal with Toyota, I am stuck on the road 400 miles away from home.
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Driving a 2007 toyota highlander hybrid? this car has done well until just this last year. I think the auxiliary 12 volt battery and rest of engine has issues. I replaced the 12v battery in 2012 so it's still good, but when I go out of town for over 7 days and the car isn't started, it is dead when i return. So I charge it up but then the car won't move when started and put into gear. It acts as if a wheel lock is on it. I got a hold of an innovus code scanner and no codes appear. I don't know what to do. I have come across some posts on other forums where owners did have battery issues with these cars, not the fault of the 12v battery but just the car and how it's built, vis a vis the 12v batt. I had the ipm (inverter component) replaced on recall in march of this year. the above issue with the battery had just begun a month prior, so i thought that following the recall all would be well. but it isn't...
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Car wouldn't start, electric came on but it wouldn't turn over. Towed it to Toyota Dealer. Trouble reported in window was "Check Hybrid System" and " Check CVS? and one other but don't remember. After leaving the dealer and arriving home, I had a call advising me that there was water in the hybrid battery to the tune of $6K. Manager told me that the car had to have passed through standing water or water rose to level where batteries were contaminated. Don't know of any flooded areas around here and no evidence of water on the carpet so how does water get into the batteries. Manager advised me to call insurance company to have them pay for it. Nothing surprises me today but how does water get into the system without flooding the car?
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Noticed some pinkish water yesterday, but thought it was water from some puddles on the tires. Today noticed no heat in the car this am. Got home and noticed more pink fluid on the floor. Looked under car, no other area other than near muffler. Pretty evident leak. Same color as both inverter and engine coolant. It has 94k miles. Cant find leaks of any kind anywhere else. What do you all think?
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Just purchased a used 2008 HH - about 85000 miles. Seems to work perfectly except there is a very loud hum that sounds that it is coming from the rear. Starts to be noticeable at 30 MPH and gets louder up to about 55, and then isn't as noticeable, perhaps due to normal road noise.
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Inserted updated nav disc as directed in nav disc slot, closed door. Now the disc is stuck in the scan-disc mode and the load/eject button doesn't work on it. Wondering if there is a way to force eject the disc or other way to unstick it. You can hear the disc 'whirring' briefly as if it is trying to eject, but is stuck. It does this over and over. That's the only sound; none of the other buttons are responsive.
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I seem to recall my 4.2l oil and coolant temperature staying at a consistent 200 degrees, but now my oil temp seems to hover at or slightly above 180 while coolant remains at 200.
A 5 mile high speed uphill run brought the oil temp to about 190 degrees, but it soon settled to 180 once I slowed to 80mph.
So ambient temp is about 15 degrees Fahrenheit; however, that really shouldn't make a difference with a water cooled/thermostat engine, correct?
My main concern is that lower oil operating temperatures wont allow condensation to boil off.
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So it's happened a couple of times already when the temperature has dropped below 20 degrees my subwoofer stops working until the temperatures come back up.
Is there some sort of protection I should know about because I skimmed through the owner's manual and didn't see anything about it. Seems to work perfect what's the temperature back up later.
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Starting this past winter, whenever the overnight temperature drops below 45 degrees, a loud grinding/whirring noise emanates from inside the middle of the dashboard of my 2006 Prius. The noise occurs in regular one second or so intervals, and appears to originate inside or behind the touchscreen and radio/CD player.
The noise continues for about 15-20 seconds, and then goes away. The problem won't reoccur until the car cools overnight - i.e. the grinding noise won't reappear if I start the car up again when it's warm.
I recorded the sound this morning and have attached a sample WAV file here. I had to upload it as a zip file because the upload facility on PriusChat apparently doesn't allow one to directly upload a wav file.
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My husband has a 2013 Subaru Legacy, and we have noticed that on days where the temperature is below 35 degrees Fahrenheit or so, it is having trouble starting. It cranks for about 7-10 seconds prior to starting, or will not start until after a few attempts. We have owned the car for about a year, and did not notice this problem last winter.
So far, we have taken it back to the Subaru Dealer twice. The first time, they told us they found nothing wrong with the car. The second time, they tried draining and recharging the battery. Our car is still having issues starting, and we are not sure where to turn to next. Is this a known issue with Subaru Legacy? Our car is still under warranty.
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I have a 2004 Subaru Legacy Wagon with around 90,000 miles on it. I purchased the car in 2008 with about 26,000 miles on it. Starting two years ago, whenever the air temperature is below 15-20 degrees, my car will develop a smell of antifreeze in the cabin when I start it and let it warm up for a minute or two. It did not do it for the first winters I owned it. I have not been able to detect the smell outside of the vehicle, and I have not been able to detect the smell in the summer months, even if the car is left idling for several minutes. The White Whale (my cars name according to my wife) was worked on by my local mechanic (where the car was purchased) last winter. They considered and replaced the thermostat, a leaking (or at least they thought it was possibly leaking) hose, and then finally after consulting over the phone with the Subaru dealer that is a little over 45 miles from my house, decided that the problem was likely the head gasket.
So at around 65,000 miles I had the head gasket replaced by the Subaru dealer. Problem is, they replaced it in March, and the temps were high enough that I couldn't really tell if the fix had fixed the original problem or not. It had seemed that the smell was at least less intense, but hard to tell. So, here we are in the midst of January, yesterday the car started beautifully (which is one reason that I love this car) after sitting outside all night at -11 degrees Fahrenheit with wind chills down to below -30. Last winter, in these conditions, the smell would be so strong that I would get nauseated driving the entire 15 minutes to work.
This winter, since the repair, the smell seems limited to only the first idling time. After that, the cabin seems to get cleared out with fresh air, and the smell dissipates. There have never been any check engine lights, the oil and coolant levels have never been a problem, the temperature is never higher than just above the mid-line on the gauge which has stayed the same all throughout the time I've owned it, and performance has been completely unaffected by the smell, other than my performance as a driver when trying to navigate in a car that reeks of antifreeze. Also, I have never noticed what some describe as a haze or liquid building up on the windshield when a heater core goes out and my mechanics, both dealership and local, assured me that this was not the problem.
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So, this may sound strange but from the get-go of owning my Prius I have always sort of doubted the accuracy of the outside temperature reading. I am not totally worried about that part, as I don't really care about the reading, but I would love to understand something. When the thermometer reads the temperature as "37 degrees" it displays this bar that states it as such. The same bar where it notifies you if you change the temperature or volume via the steering wheel. So, I guess my question is , is there something specific about that number or is it just a quirk of my individual Prius? Also, it is worth noting that no other temperature causes it to display this message, only 37 degrees.
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Chasing a problem for sometime now with my early 99 F350 auto 7.3 w/ 134K. This problem seems to only happen when the temperature outside is lower than 20 degrees.
When approaching a hill the truck will lose top end power (2000 RPM and greater) and shudder. Basically, start at 65 and you reach the top and 45. My gauges are all normal, no codes are present, no leaks or other abnormal sounds.
Fuel pressure is good (even under load), passed buzz test, passed CCT test. Is this possibly just the nature of the beast (being cold)? Seems to go away after 30 minutes or more of driving. In the last month, we have:
-changed all fluids and filters, except in tank filters
-sensors replaced: map, ebpv (and tube), IAT, and intake spyder sensor
-boost leak checked
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The outside temperature is reported inaccurately by your C? I now automatically deduct 5 degrees from whatever my C tries to tell me is the temp. I may mention this at my 5,000 visit to the dealer because I'm wondering if the sensor is placed too closely to something creating warmth. But....it's definitely reading too high.
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I have a 93 accord ex sedan, 4 cylinder, automatic that I bought in August. I live in South Dakota & it's starting to get cold here. When I first bought the car the temp gauge was working fine in that it would move to the middle of hot/cold range. Recently, I've noticed the interior doesn't get warm for awhile, even after driving 20 miles. It blows warm air but it seems like it should be warmer. I've also noticed the temperature gauge barely moves, if it does at all. Most of the time it doesn't move or just stays on cold. I did some research on here & thought I would try to change the thermostat, upper & lower hose and the antifreeze. I'm hoping this will heat up the interior better because it's starting to get cold here & fix the temp gauge.
Previously, I had a 91 accord & that would warm up great, even when it was bitterly cold here. What would cause the temp gauge to do this? I'm even thinking about changing the transmission control module because I read on here that could cause the gauges to have wrong readings. The speedo & rpm gauges also seem to have wrong readings, especially in the mornings or when I first drive it. I used my gps & found the speedo to be off by as much as 10 mph. The other item I've noticed is that I only get around 23-25 mpg highway & on my other accord I was averaging 28-30 mpg highway. Not sure if this is related or not but thought the more info the better.
I have done all the basic maintenance-oil & filter, plugs & wires, valve cover gasket, air filter, tranny fluid but have never done anything with the heating/cooling system.
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Tempature gauge on my 2001 sierra (4.8) has been running low for awhile. The highest it will reach is round 160. It's currently running rough/rich and bad mpg. I replaced the ECT sensor but didn't work. I'm not sure if there are two ECT sensors on this model. I don't think it's the cluster. Is there a second sensor I'm overlooking?
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