Toyota - Highlander :: Loud Humming From Back Of Car
May 14, 2014
In January I purchased a front wheel drive 2010 Toyota Highlander with 23,000 miles. When driving just over 60 mph, there is a fairly loud humming sound at the back of the car (seems to be more toward the right rear). The dealership replaced the LEFT rear wheel bearing (they said the right bearing was fine) and performed road force balancing on the new Yokohama Geolander tires I purchased with the car. Unfortunately, the annoying humming sound has not gone away.
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Just purchased a used 2008 HH - about 85000 miles. Seems to work perfectly except there is a very loud hum that sounds that it is coming from the rear. Starts to be noticeable at 30 MPH and gets louder up to about 55, and then isn't as noticeable, perhaps due to normal road noise.
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When I put my 2008 Highlander in reverse and put on the brakes, it makes a very loud and obvious clicking noise. What this might be? I'm very concerned.
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I have a problem with my 1986 Toyota 4X4 pickup for over four years now,the problem is a noise from the front end that occurs when hubs are in Locked position a loud humming that comes and goes, I can hit the brakes hard and it goes away for a few seconds, I can hit a bump and it goes away for a few seconds, I can take a sharp turn and it goes away for a few seconds. This woowoowoo or hum only happens when the hubs are locked not when they are in the free position, I cannot shift in 4wd and make it go away for a few seconds, the noise gets worse the faster I go, it also gets worse the colder the weather is. I have replaced the axles twice and the front diff once and still has a noise, I have checked the wheel bearings for play and they are fine, I have repacked the hubs with fresh grease, the sound, sounds like metal to metal friction.
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I am trying to diagnose a sound that is coming from my 2001 Camry 2.2L. When I accelerate there is a load humming noise coming from the engine. It happens at all speeds and only when I accelerate.
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I hear a loud Rattling noise from back of 09 Corolla,when I put it in gear- just came out of nowhere...
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About a year ago our headlights were getting dim . Our dealer referred us to a company that had a process to polish the lights and restore their brightness. Now after a year or so the lights are again cloudy and need attention. I purchased a kit but haven't tried it yet because of winter in Wisconsin.
I've also read that toothpaste can be used to clean and polish the lens on headlights.
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Looking to buy a used bmw x3 (75K miles) 2006 model versus a toyota highlander limited hybrid 2010 with 65K miles. The bmw is priced at 14K, while the highlander is priced at 26K. Both cars drive good, clean records. However the hybrid I fear has hidden costs.
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I am trying to replace the alternator. I have removed the top pivot bolt, the lower bolt going through the tensioning device, and the bolt that adjusts the tension. The thing still won't come out. I can move it up and down (like it is pivoting on the pivot bolt) but it won't come out from between the area that the pivot bolt slides into. Tried using a large screwdriver to pry it out but it doesn't budge.
Is there a secret to remove this that I haven't discovered?
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Everything electric works fine, windows, radio and all. The car will not start. New battery, still no start, not even trying. Put a new starter on and still nothing, but when you arc it you can hear it free spinning next to the fly wheel.... what to do next? some people have said it needs to be shimmed, how would I go about trying that?
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I have a '06 Toyota Highlander that blows hot air from the vents when the controls are in the following positions:
- Temperature anywhere in the cool to cold range
- Fan on at any speed
- Diverter in any position
- A/C OFF.
The air comes out hot after I make a sharp turn in either direction. If I turn the fan off I get fresh, cool air from the vents regardless of the turns.
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I just bought (ten days ago) a 2009 Highlander Hybrid Limited, hoping to take advantage of the very good MPG advertised by Toyota. The vehicle has 70,000 miles and in pretty good condition.
The problem is that I have a terrible 13-14 MPG. I did some research and I can not find what is wrong. I do everything by the book. No abrupt acceleration or braking. No AC. I drive only in city.
The batteries levels are good according to what I can see on screen.
I am a little worried because even for a regular gas engine Highlander 13 MPG is pretty bad !
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Wife is 5' tall and can't see out the windshield sitting in the passenger seat. No ability to raise seat, can go back and forth but not up. We had a 2010 Highlander SE and did not have this problem. Now she hates this car.
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I have a 2013 Highlander which I purchased new. about a month ago I noticed rust all over my third row seat when I opened it. As I looked I found rust all under the seats and not only on the third row but also the first and second row also. The car is garage kept and has had no leaks. My dealership tells me it is not a Toyota problem.
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I am trying some troubleshooting based on various things I found for my 2010 Toyota Highlander blower motor. The issue is that my blower motor operates intermittently. Here are the symptoms and what I've done so far:
-Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. It seems to be dependent on weather (in the sun for awhile and doesn't seem to like that), although lately it doesn't really seem to matter. Had it in my garage yesterday and it just works some times and not other.
-If it works, all speeds work (full range). That makes me think it doesn't have to do with the resistors, although I can't find the electrical schematics for the car.
-All fuses are fine
-I have jiggled all wires and can never get it to work (if not working at the time) or to not work (if working at the time), so I don't think loose wires are the issue.
-I put a multimeter across the leads going to the motor and always get voltage. When the car is on, it's about 13-14V, and when it's not running just above 12V.
-The rear blower motor works perfectly, 100% of the time
-Light physical agitation of the motor doesn't make it come on or go off
My main question is what is the 3rd lead going to the motor? The two bigger leads are the voltage, but that seems to always be there, even with the car off. I'm guessing the 3rd lead is some control signal for the motor but not sure. I can't ever get a voltage on that lead, but I'm not sure I'm even supposed to. When the motor was supposed to be on and it was working, I unplugged it and checked the voltages, but got the same readings as when it wasn't working.
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Purchased a 2010 AWD Highlander, There is a whining noise coming from the rear end, possibly the differential. Is this normal in all Highlanders?
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I was told one of three cat converts is clogged. How do you repair this does it need all 3. I am also having transmission problem with the same what is wrong with this toyota.
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This past summer on humid days I would occasionally have problems with the car idling. Usually after filling the gas tank. Had the car towed into dealership twice but no codes and it never acted up for them. Once the season changed and got colder I have not have any more significant problems. Occasionally the car would act like it was going to die after start up but if you gave it gas for a few seconds it was ok to put it in drive. Last weekend in Cleveland (very cold) I started experiencing more problems with the idling (note the car starts but you have to keep your foot on the gas or it will die). Took it to a private mechanic and he has spent the last 4 days scratching his head. Again computer shows no problem. He has cleaned the choke and throttle and cleaned spark plugs. All parts look fine. He's checked the IAC and the mass air censor. He has checked his "expensive" computer program and cannot find any other answers.
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My 2004 Highlander air conditioning air shifts from cold to hot at random (well maybe more often after going over a small bump). If I rotate the temperature knob from cold to warm and back, it goes back to feeding cold air. it happens when air conditioner is off and the fan is feeding outside air as well. When I asked my favorite repair shop about it their eyes rolled back - I don't think they wanted to tackle it. Is this a mechanical problem or electrical problem?
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Engine light, VSC and TRAC off lights come on. Local garage says code P1201, go to transmission shop. My code book says Injector circuit open/shorted cylinder #1. Is this still a transmission shop issue? I am terrified of dealerships, can I drive it a few more days, short distances whilst I decide who will dupe me over more?
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I have a 2002 Toyota Highlander that sort of chokes. At random times while driving, the car hesitates on acceleration, chokes a little, and then continues to accelerate. It is an automatic transmission but it feels like I can feel the shift in gears. usually happens at low speeds (20 mph). no matter time of day or warm up period. I have been having regular maintenance at dealer. there was a caution note that I would need spark plugs replaced... is this it? a result o f needing new spark plugs? or something else?
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