Toyota - Highlander :: Goodyear Fortera TRIPLE Tred Tires Are The Best
Nov 15, 2006
The original equipment (OEM) tires on the Highlander are just as cheap/bad as other OEM vehicle tires. I had Michelin Cross Terrains installed on my previous Highlanders. They were great! My current Highlander has Goodyear Fortera TRIPLE Tred tires.
These are the BEST tires that I've ever owned. Quiet, very responsive, and have preformed great in rain and snow. They're also a 60K mile tire. Expensive, but well worth the money.
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About a year ago our headlights were getting dim . Our dealer referred us to a company that had a process to polish the lights and restore their brightness. Now after a year or so the lights are again cloudy and need attention. I purchased a kit but haven't tried it yet because of winter in Wisconsin.
I've also read that toothpaste can be used to clean and polish the lens on headlights.
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Looking to buy a used bmw x3 (75K miles) 2006 model versus a toyota highlander limited hybrid 2010 with 65K miles. The bmw is priced at 14K, while the highlander is priced at 26K. Both cars drive good, clean records. However the hybrid I fear has hidden costs.
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I am trying to replace the alternator. I have removed the top pivot bolt, the lower bolt going through the tensioning device, and the bolt that adjusts the tension. The thing still won't come out. I can move it up and down (like it is pivoting on the pivot bolt) but it won't come out from between the area that the pivot bolt slides into. Tried using a large screwdriver to pry it out but it doesn't budge.
Is there a secret to remove this that I haven't discovered?
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In January I purchased a front wheel drive 2010 Toyota Highlander with 23,000 miles. When driving just over 60 mph, there is a fairly loud humming sound at the back of the car (seems to be more toward the right rear). The dealership replaced the LEFT rear wheel bearing (they said the right bearing was fine) and performed road force balancing on the new Yokohama Geolander tires I purchased with the car. Unfortunately, the annoying humming sound has not gone away.
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Everything electric works fine, windows, radio and all. The car will not start. New battery, still no start, not even trying. Put a new starter on and still nothing, but when you arc it you can hear it free spinning next to the fly wheel.... what to do next? some people have said it needs to be shimmed, how would I go about trying that?
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I have a '06 Toyota Highlander that blows hot air from the vents when the controls are in the following positions:
- Temperature anywhere in the cool to cold range
- Fan on at any speed
- Diverter in any position
- A/C OFF.
The air comes out hot after I make a sharp turn in either direction. If I turn the fan off I get fresh, cool air from the vents regardless of the turns.
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I just bought (ten days ago) a 2009 Highlander Hybrid Limited, hoping to take advantage of the very good MPG advertised by Toyota. The vehicle has 70,000 miles and in pretty good condition.
The problem is that I have a terrible 13-14 MPG. I did some research and I can not find what is wrong. I do everything by the book. No abrupt acceleration or braking. No AC. I drive only in city.
The batteries levels are good according to what I can see on screen.
I am a little worried because even for a regular gas engine Highlander 13 MPG is pretty bad !
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Wife is 5' tall and can't see out the windshield sitting in the passenger seat. No ability to raise seat, can go back and forth but not up. We had a 2010 Highlander SE and did not have this problem. Now she hates this car.
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I have a 2013 Highlander which I purchased new. about a month ago I noticed rust all over my third row seat when I opened it. As I looked I found rust all under the seats and not only on the third row but also the first and second row also. The car is garage kept and has had no leaks. My dealership tells me it is not a Toyota problem.
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I am trying some troubleshooting based on various things I found for my 2010 Toyota Highlander blower motor. The issue is that my blower motor operates intermittently. Here are the symptoms and what I've done so far:
-Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. It seems to be dependent on weather (in the sun for awhile and doesn't seem to like that), although lately it doesn't really seem to matter. Had it in my garage yesterday and it just works some times and not other.
-If it works, all speeds work (full range). That makes me think it doesn't have to do with the resistors, although I can't find the electrical schematics for the car.
-All fuses are fine
-I have jiggled all wires and can never get it to work (if not working at the time) or to not work (if working at the time), so I don't think loose wires are the issue.
-I put a multimeter across the leads going to the motor and always get voltage. When the car is on, it's about 13-14V, and when it's not running just above 12V.
-The rear blower motor works perfectly, 100% of the time
-Light physical agitation of the motor doesn't make it come on or go off
My main question is what is the 3rd lead going to the motor? The two bigger leads are the voltage, but that seems to always be there, even with the car off. I'm guessing the 3rd lead is some control signal for the motor but not sure. I can't ever get a voltage on that lead, but I'm not sure I'm even supposed to. When the motor was supposed to be on and it was working, I unplugged it and checked the voltages, but got the same readings as when it wasn't working.
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Purchased a 2010 AWD Highlander, There is a whining noise coming from the rear end, possibly the differential. Is this normal in all Highlanders?
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I was told one of three cat converts is clogged. How do you repair this does it need all 3. I am also having transmission problem with the same what is wrong with this toyota.
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This past summer on humid days I would occasionally have problems with the car idling. Usually after filling the gas tank. Had the car towed into dealership twice but no codes and it never acted up for them. Once the season changed and got colder I have not have any more significant problems. Occasionally the car would act like it was going to die after start up but if you gave it gas for a few seconds it was ok to put it in drive. Last weekend in Cleveland (very cold) I started experiencing more problems with the idling (note the car starts but you have to keep your foot on the gas or it will die). Took it to a private mechanic and he has spent the last 4 days scratching his head. Again computer shows no problem. He has cleaned the choke and throttle and cleaned spark plugs. All parts look fine. He's checked the IAC and the mass air censor. He has checked his "expensive" computer program and cannot find any other answers.
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My 2004 Highlander air conditioning air shifts from cold to hot at random (well maybe more often after going over a small bump). If I rotate the temperature knob from cold to warm and back, it goes back to feeding cold air. it happens when air conditioner is off and the fan is feeding outside air as well. When I asked my favorite repair shop about it their eyes rolled back - I don't think they wanted to tackle it. Is this a mechanical problem or electrical problem?
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Engine light, VSC and TRAC off lights come on. Local garage says code P1201, go to transmission shop. My code book says Injector circuit open/shorted cylinder #1. Is this still a transmission shop issue? I am terrified of dealerships, can I drive it a few more days, short distances whilst I decide who will dupe me over more?
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I have a 2002 Toyota Highlander that sort of chokes. At random times while driving, the car hesitates on acceleration, chokes a little, and then continues to accelerate. It is an automatic transmission but it feels like I can feel the shift in gears. usually happens at low speeds (20 mph). no matter time of day or warm up period. I have been having regular maintenance at dealer. there was a caution note that I would need spark plugs replaced... is this it? a result o f needing new spark plugs? or something else?
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Whenever I start up my 2001 Highlander it makes an awful screeching noise that sometimes lasts up to a minute or two long! It doesn't just happen when I start it too. Sometimes I'll be just driving along and it will start screeching like a bat out of hell and quite a minute later. Also, sometimes when I accelerate quickly it will briefly ( a little peep) screech. I thought it was my fan belts so I got both of them replaced about a month ago and it temporarily fixed the problem. About a week or so after they were replaced, I put the key in the ignition and Squeak...
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My 2009 Toyota Highlander Hybrid makes an intermittent noise when I accelerate from a stop or decelerate to a stop. My best description of the sound is a sharp thud or a dull knock (maybe a dull pop). It happens almost exclusively when I accelerate from a full stop or from moving very slowly. A similar sound happens when I decelerate to a full or near stop. I'm very certain that the sound is coming from the rear suspension or drive train of the vehicle, but I have not proven it. When I'm moving along at normal speeds, I don't hear any sounds and the car feels solid. By pure luck, going over the right sort of bumps causes a somewhat similar noise, but that might be a read herring.
Trips to two separate Toyota dealers have not fixed the issue since it is not easily repeatable. The first dealer tried tightening some bolts. The second replaced one of the front(!) struts, tightened bolts and lubricated things. I have managed to reproduce the issue for the second dealer, but the noise wasn't persistent enough for them to track it down.
This type of SUV should be regarded as all-wheel-drive, but power is mostly delivered by the front tires. The rear tires are driven by an independent electric motor and differential. The front and rear drive trains operate separately; the only mechanical connection between them is the rest of the vehicle. I'm wondering if the electric motor could be slipping a little bit.
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In my 2002 Highlander, the top cluster of my center console controls (clock, hazard lights, passenger seatbelt warning, cycle air button, A/C button, rear defrost) have not been working for about two and a half weeks. It's been on my radar, but I hadn't had time to take it in yet. Drove fine, A/C worked, all of that – mostly just the clock was an inconvenience.
Two weekends ago, my battery died. Took it in, Advance checked it out and topped off the fluids, cleaned corrosion and sent me on my way – said the corrosion might just be shorting it out (it was bad), but that while the battery was old (4.5yrs) it might still be fine, so to try that and come back in 100 miles or so before buying a new battery.
Worked fine that week, died this past Saturday. Went in to get a replacement battery, had it put in, all good. Chugged a little on the first start after the battery was installed, had them check the starter/alternator, they were fine. Started normal after the first time.
Went to leave, and noticed my air conditioning was now coming out of the defrost, instead of the forward setting I left it on. Long story short, now that dial doesn't work, and I can't change the airflow direction. (Something with the battery resetting the switch to the default).
The temperature control still seems to work – it doesn't get quite as cold as it did (not sure if that's a new issue as well, or just how the defrost portion works). I can also still change the strength of the air blowing out – basically, the other two A/C controls work, I just can't change WHERE it's blowing out.
My guess was that it would be fuse-related, but I checked all the fuses that I could tell from the manual might have something to do with the A/C (or the center console controls I mentioned), and none looked blown/broken. What I could look for?
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I purchased a used 2006 Toyota Highlander AWD about 4 months ago. Ever since I bought it, it has had a vibration / wobble from the front end that can be felt through the steering wheel and acceleration petal. Only happens between 40-45 mph. I have brought it to the dealer many times and every time they balance the tires. Last time they said it was a faulty motor mount and replaced it. The problem has not been fixed with this repair.
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