Toyota - Highlander :: Check Engine Light Turned On At 102,000 Miles
Jan 5, 2007
My check engine light came on at 102,000 miles. The dealer service dept. says that the diagnostic showed no clear cause(?)but I need new spark plugs ($240),ejectors cleaned, and of course the cost of the diagnostic ($130) The total was around $475. Am I being ripped?? My big question is what will they do to get the light out?? Should I disconnect the battery and reset the clock and radio buttons to see if it goes out? Then I can worry again if it comes back on.
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I always take care of my car oil changes on time. And in the last week my check engine light turned on for a few hours then turned off. And today it turned on again. I kinda regret getting rid of my scan gauge now.
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So this morning when I started my car for work, the engine warning light turned on.....Last night it was perfectly fine. What surprised me was the car is only 3500 miles in. Why encountered the engine light issue this early in their ownership of the IS?
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I have a 2009 Santa Fe, v6, and the check engine light and "ESC OFF" lights are on consistently.
I read the check engine light may be the gas cap so I replaced it but the light is still on. Took the car to Advanced Auto Parts and they said it was related to the cruise control.
I also read that the ESC OFF light may be due to alignment issues. I had an alignment done last Saturday but the light is still on. When they checked the check engine light they said it was related to the emissions. This was at a Firestone shop.
Any common cause for these lights to be on at 30,000 miles? I changed the transmission fluid also recently which the manual says to do at 30,000 miles.
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I have an issue that keeps recurring intermittently that I cannot seem to figure out. The car is a 2006 Sonata with a 4-cylinder and about 130k miles. It started about 6 months ago when the check engine light came on 25 miles or so after a fill up. The code shown was P2097 (Post catalyst system too rich.) I reset the light by disconnecting the battery. I tried adding some gas dryer and premium fuel and that seemed to work, but the light would intermittently come on. I also replaced the spark plugs (put dielectric grease on the boots) and had the exhaust system checked for leaks. I also put in fuel injector cleaner several times and cleaned the MAF sensor. In April, the light was coming on quite often, so I replaced the post catalyst oxygen sensor and reset the light.
The light stayed off for 600 miles or so and then came back on. This time the code is P0420 (catalytic converter efficiency). An exhaust system shop said that there does not appear to be anything wrong with the exhaust system including the catalytic converter itself. The car does have a slight miss at idle, but performs fine other than that. Also, if the car is not driven for a few days, there is some valve train noised when the engine is first started which lasts about 5 seconds.
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I have a 2001.5 passat and the check engine light turned on. It just so happens that whenever i put gas in the car.... and try to start it back up, it won't start! it takes about 3 or 4 tries for it to start up.
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Bought an R32 yesterday. used of course.. was doing fine feels like a brand new clutch. got it from a ford dealership, and the check engine light just turned on. I will go back for the 14 day policy but i was wondering if it could be my clutch.
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So today during my drive I looked down and noticed my check engine light come on! The car has 7k miles on it!! All I've done to it was the ARK cat back and k and n drop in filter. I'm guessing O2 sensor but it's crazy to think a car with 7k miles had a bad sensor. Noticed the car was running a little rough lately but noting too crazy.
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My friend has a 2004 Trailblazer with a 4.2. He was driving it a few days ago and the check engine light came on and it would not run pass 15 miles per hour. He turned the truck off and re-started it. The light went off and the problem went away. The scan tool came up with an old code that that throttle body sensor was bad or the throttle body needed cleaned. We cleaned the throttle body and ran it and it ran fine. Now here is the problem. When the heater is on and the truck is at idle, the truck will idle at 2000 rpm, then kick back to normal then kick back to 2000 rpm and then keep repating this issue. If we shut the heat off, the truck idles fine.
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I've got a check engine light on but the truck runs fine. I checked the fluid levels everything seemed normal. Any special trick that I could try to reset this check engine light myself? It's got the 4.6 L, Stock no mods, been keeping the regular service intervals at the dealership.
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My check engine light just turned on recently. Just hit 115K miles on my SC430 a few weeks ago. Is there a service that I'm missing? Running absolutely fine, oil change recently as well.
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This morning, I tried to start the 2003 Prius and got a 'check engine' light and nothing. The cabin lights were bright so the 12V looked OK. After three tries, I used the VOM and measured 12.55 V on the battery. But the traction battery level looked unusually low.
So I tried again and it started. Using the ScanGauge, no codes were displayed. So I turned the car off and on three times and cleared the "check engine" light. Then I connected the Auto Ingenuity and read out:
P1636 - HV ECU Malfunction on the HV ECU to ECM bus.
C1213 - HV ECU Communication Circuit Malfunction between HV ECU and Brake ECU
P3002 - HV ECU Communication Malfunction on the HV ECU to Battery ECU
So it looks like there was an HV ECU problem that 'cleared while testing.' Certainly it makes sense to inspect the HV ECU connectors and re-seat them and clean out any debris.
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My 2005 Prius has 105,000 miles. The check engine light came on for the first time ever. Dealer will diagnose tomorrow. If it's the main battery, should I sell it?
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My check engine light went off last month and when I had it looked at my dealership they said it was due to the seal where the gas cap locks into I believe. Anyway, a week later my light went off again and now they are saying it is the charcoal cannister which I found out is very expensive. Here are my two questions. First of all, can I get this part replaced and installed at a non-dealership? My second question is since they reset my check engine light, it came back on a few days later for two days and then turned off completely. Should the light have turned off on its own? Should I be concerned that it is no longer on? It just makes me wonder if they diagnosed this issue correctly or not.
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With a 100 k on the odometer, the wife reports that the car started shaking, trans was slipping and check engine light came on after driving about two miles. She drives it at low speed back to the house. Investigation under the hood shows trans fluid in the radiator and coming out of the overflow tank. Engine starts right up and we have not had any other driveline problems since owning the car in 2005.
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I have a Hyundai Elantra 2007 with 123,000 miles on it. Three weeks ago the engine About two weeks ago the engine light turned on. I took it into an auto parts store so they could use the digital code reader, it said the upstream O2 sensor needed to be replaced. I replace it and still have bad gas mileage, the second time I had it read with the code read it said both of the O2 sensors were bad so I replaced the downstream one week later. There was still bad gas mileage and the code reader still said it was both of the O2 sensors, the auto part's representative said when the engine light is on that the computer turns off the O2 sensors so he recommended to erase the codes on my car with the code reader (I pushed the button and he looked away). Still nothing changed so I disconnected the negative terminal on the battery to restart the computer. Still horrible gas mileage with no engine light anymore. Gas mileage averages about 15 mpgs in city and 32-35 on the highway. The highway seems about right but I've never seen any mpg below 30 for city mpg before this problem. I also cleaned the mass air flow sensor with mass air flow cleaner after dealing with the O2 sensor. All preventive maintenance is kept up by me and I have had no problems with this car before. Water pump replacement, timing belt replacement, and transmission flush have occurred in the last ~50,000 miles.
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My mother in-law has a 94 Chrysler LHS, 3.5 V6, auto, 66k. Yesterday she was driving home and said the check engine light was on. I went to check it out and the light was not on. The light come on when the key is turned on but goes out when it is started. This is not an OBD-2 car it has a little blue plug and i do not have a code reader for it. Took it to auto zone and they do not have a code reader for this car. Auto Zone and Pep Boys both told me that if the light is off there will not be a code. Further checking on the internet I found out you can get a two digit code by turning the key on and off and count the flashing check engine light. It worked I got code 12 and 51. 51 means lean O2 sensor. If this is true that why does the CEL not stay on. How can I test the O2 sensors?
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Check engine light issue. For the past 3 months, my check engine light has been turning on. The first time it happened, the garage replaced the EVAP Purge Solenoid (which includes the vapor can purge solenoid and the EVAP canister purge solenoid). Of course, a few months later, the check engine light turned on again. The second time, the garage replaced the gas cap. Then the check engine light turned on again the next day.
So, the third time, the garage performed maintenance/repair on the vapor can purge solenoid and the EVAP canister purge solenoid. Of course, three days after driving my car, the check engine light turned back on. I've contacted the garage for the fourth time now. I explained that their diagnostics have obviously been exhausted, and they aren't really sure what the problem is. I'm going back in a few days to speak to the lead mechanic hoping to be compensated for their guess-work or at the least to be given an honest "I don't know" answer.
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I have a 2001 Ford F-150 v6 2wd. A few weeks ago, the check engine light turned on so I drove to the nearest autozone to hook up their computer and see what the error code was. The technician gave me the code (I don't remember it off the top of my head but it wasn't something imminent). Before leaving, I asked him if he could clear the light, figuring that if it didn't come back on after 50 miles, that it might have just been a fluke with one of the truck's sensors. Later that day, I realized that when I started the truck, the check engine light was no longer turning on momentarily the way that all the dashboard lights do to tell you that they're working.
I went back to a different autozone (one closer to my house) and explained the situation. They checked the computer for codes again and found none and said that the light must not be turning on because the bulb is burned out. I find this to be a striking coincidence that the bulb should happen to blow out exactly when the technician used his computer to clear the light. Is it possible that he did something with his computer that permanently disabled the check engine light? It's been a few weeks and I've since bought an inexpensive bluetooth code reader of my own, hooked it up, and found that there is still no active code. Is it possible that the code has returned or will return, but that I won't have a way to know because something he did suppressed not just the light but my car's code reporting mechanism?
For now, the truck drives fine, but I'm afraid to travel long distances when there might be a problem I don't know about.
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Engine light, VSC and TRAC off lights come on. Local garage says code P1201, go to transmission shop. My code book says Injector circuit open/shorted cylinder #1. Is this still a transmission shop issue? I am terrified of dealerships, can I drive it a few more days, short distances whilst I decide who will dupe me over more?
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I have a 2007 Saturn vue hybrid that has the check engine light on-the code says POAC. I can't find anything on the Internet what this code means. I'd like to fix it myself instead of bringing it to a dealer and getting charged big bucks! What this code means?
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