Toyota - Highlander :: 2007 - Power Brake Booster Broken?
Jun 27, 2012
The power brake booster on our 2007 Toyota Highlander is broken and needs to be replaced. We asked our mechanic whether there are any brake-related recalls for our Make/Model/Year, and he said 'no'. Is this just our particular bad luck, or have others experienced similar problems with this SUV? It was scary. My husband was driving on the highway and needed to make a sudden stop due to a traffic slowdown. The brakes didn't respond, and he needed to slam down the brakes several times to get the brakes to work. No warning, the brakes just suddenlt stopped working.
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I have a 2001 ex. 4x4 6.8 v10. I have been having vacuum issues and brake issues lately. My front brakes seem to be sticking, some times they drag some times the don't squeeze when I step on the brake causing uneven wear and pulling when I stop. Also feels like I have no power assist. I also have a vacuum issue with the auto setting on the hubs, they don't engage I have to manually lock them and sometimes my a/c stays on defrost. And my cruise control doesn't work, the light comes on and love done the self check but it doesn't show anything is wrong. Could I have a bad brake booster?
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Have a rusty brake booster? My truck is an 07' with 55k. Brakes work great, but the booster is rusting all over. Should I replace? The lower steering shaft doesn't look so great either.... I'm trying to attach a picture, but I'm having some issues.
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Recently replaced 2 burned out brake lights on the drivers side. Discovered brake lights still don't work. Passenger side works fine. Exchanged bulbs but no luck. Brake lights still don't work. All running lights work as well as backup lights and turn signals. Just can't get the two drivers side lights to work.
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I have a 2005 Highlander that had repeated rear brake noise problem after the dealership serviced the brake in May this year. The sound was like dragging or grinding. After that, I brought my car back but the noise came up every time in 3-7 days. Here is the of the service record from the dealership:
5/31/2011: initial maintenance. Rotor resurfaced, pad replaced
6/17/2011: Adjustment and lubrication.
7/13/2011: Replaced the pad.
8/20/2011: Technician could not hear the noise during drive test. Ticket withdrawn.
8/26/2011: Tighten e-brake, lubrication.
Tech told me the left and right brakes were not balanced. I recorded the noise in the following Youtube video: [URL] .....
Turn volume up and notice the last two stops. What I should say to the dealership service? I plan to take the car back in a few days.
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My 2004 Toyota Highlander with 84K miles has been diagnosed with a seized front driver side brake caliper with worn brake pad (1/32). I had recall work done a few days ago at the dealership and this was discovered afterward during the "complimentary" multi-point check-up. - You know, the long laundry list of recommended work they try to sell you on. Of course the brake work is actually necessary.
Since the vehicle was just inspected 2 months ago at our local shop, my husband suggested I take it back there to verify the diagnosis and see what that mechanic would recommend. That mechanic confirmed and showed me the seized caliper/worn pad, which, by the way, was functioning well in mid January at inspection, and measured 7/32. This mechanic recommends replacing both calipers, pads, turning rotors. There was no indication of a problem with the RF caliper, but he says it's just a good idea to replace it so we would avoid having another problem in the future.
I want to ask everyone's opinion regarding replacement of just the bad caliper vs. both. Are we getting ripped off as far as the estimate and is the flush necessary? Also, is this issue typical in the first place, and what causes a brake caliper to seize? We've had several other vehicles driven many more miles than my Highlander and never experienced a seized caliper.
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I have a 2007 Toyota Highlander (130K miles)Recently, the A/C stopped working.
What happens: 1) With the car running and A/C off, turn on A/C2) A/C starts blowing and begins to be cool3) About 10 seconds later, the LED on the A/C control knob starts to blink and stops blowing cool air
A few diagnosis items:
1) Between steps 1 and 2 above, putting a PSI gauge on the low side port shows about 40 psi, which I believe to be normal.
2) After step 3, the PSI gauge shows about 130 psi, which I think is way too high.
3) Replaced magnetic clutch relay with no improvement.
4) When step 3 occurs, a light grinding noise occurs but then stops.
5) No diagnosis codes on the OBD2 port.
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Driving a 2007 toyota highlander hybrid? this car has done well until just this last year. I think the auxiliary 12 volt battery and rest of engine has issues. I replaced the 12v battery in 2012 so it's still good, but when I go out of town for over 7 days and the car isn't started, it is dead when i return. So I charge it up but then the car won't move when started and put into gear. It acts as if a wheel lock is on it. I got a hold of an innovus code scanner and no codes appear. I don't know what to do. I have come across some posts on other forums where owners did have battery issues with these cars, not the fault of the 12v battery but just the car and how it's built, vis a vis the 12v batt. I had the ipm (inverter component) replaced on recall in march of this year. the above issue with the battery had just begun a month prior, so i thought that following the recall all would be well. but it isn't...
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Two days ago I had new tires put on my 2007 Toyota Highlanders and since that time my air pressure sensor light keeps coming on. The tires are the right size, I checked in the owners manual. I've taken it back to the shop that put on the tires twice. The first time they told me the spare was low on air. the second time they told me the batteries in the air pressure sensors are dying and need to be replaced. I thought that sounded like a lame excuse so left the shop and called the Toyota Dealer and asked if the air pressure sensors have batteries. The service department at the Toyota dealer laughed and said no, they run off the car's battery. I called the shop back to tell them I was very disappointed and unhappy that they tried to sell me something that doesn't exist and they stood by the batteries in the sensors story and claimed they would show them to me if I would come back to the shop. Who should I believe? Replacing the batteries in tire air pressure sensors?
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I drive a 2007 Toyota Highlander, 4 cylinder/automatic/116,000 miles. I've noticed that when it gets really in the Winter I have a problem. Here is what I've noticed: I will start up the engine and let it run for 1-2 minutes (at start up idle the engine has a loud hum and after a minute or two it finally levels off). Once I start driving and gets to about 3rd it seems to get stuck there and doesn't change up until a minute later, all the while emitting a loud hum. It will eventually change up to the next gear if I wait long enough, or if I slow down and start again from first gear, or when the engine finally warms up. Other than that the vehicle runs great. I just had the battery replaced a week ago. What should I have checked first?
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Brake booster failures on 2011 and newer F-250's? I purchased a 2011 last august and the mechanic at the dealer I purchased the truck from stated that he had replaced the vacuum pump, vacuum brake booster and brake master cylinder on the truck just before I bought it as they were bad. Since then I have had two factory Ford vacuum Boosters fail on me. That makes at least three new factory Ford booster assemblies in this truck within the last year. What could be causing the problem? The truck is out of warranty and I am at a loss as to what could be causing them problem. Too much vacuum? Luckily the last two boosters have failed while sitting in a drive through and at a stop light, otherwise I may have had trouble stopping.
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I'm driving a 2008 Highlander, but this question applies to almost any car, I think. On a couple of occasions the Highlander has lost power, and I've lost braking and steering ability. Each time this happened I was going at slow speeds and was able to stop without a nasty problem then restart the car. But what if this happens and I really need to brake? Three related questions:
(a) Are power brakes going to stop the Highlander even when it has lost power?
(b) If not, will the parking/emergency brake be useful?
(c) If the answers to (a) and (b) are "No", what should I do?
Of course, I'd love to know why Highlander lost power, but my Toyota dealer was not able to replicate the problem, even after driving the SUV 100+ miles (the two occasions it happened to me were separated by about 5000 miles of driving).
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My wife was driving my 93 Volvo 940 wagon yesterday, and the brakes suddenly lost power, and brake lights went out. I have heard no hissing from the booster, and I have checked the 10 amp fuse on the relay beneath the instrument panel. Hoping (and praying) it is just one of the relays. I have a meter, but not sure which pins to use to check the relays. Secondary issue: the used radiator I bought did not have the cooling fan sensor, so I have my fan on a toggle inside.
When my wife pulled over because of the brakes, she did not turn the fan on. Yup. Overheated. Now the radiator leaks from the rubber/plastic plug where the sensor goes. Any pliable sealants that could withstand the temps? Cash is in very short supply right now. That is my main issue right now, trying to drive with no brake lights. No ABS light, and no brake light coming on on the dash. Bulbs are good. ABS light does not come on at all with ignition, but bulb tests good. Just hard brakes, and no brake lights.
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I bought a 2007 Toyota Yaris about 12,000 miles ago in March of this year. Automatic transmission, it now has around 72,500 miles on it. Recently, I have noticed a "clunking" sound/feeling when I shift from park to drive while on an incline. It doesn't matter if I am going from park to reverse, or visa versa. It is more of a feeling... like something is broken and shifting forward or backwards more quickly/violently that it should, but I can hear it slightly. There is no such sound/sensation on level ground.
Temperature/weather is not a factor. Is this a symptom of a bad motor mount/tranny mount? I had a bad motor mount on a previous car, and experienced a rattling noise while idling. There is no such noise or vibration with this car. I do not have a stable mechanic yet and would like an opinion before I try and establish a relationship with one (considering I am a small 25 year old woman who looks 17-18 years old, and I am not normally taken seriously).
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I'm taking out the brake booster and i need to know how to take off the booster from the brake pedal...
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After replacing the engine, clutch and pressure plate. Where the brake booster hooks up to create a vacuum, as I now have a very hard to push brake pedal, if indeed that is my problem. The pedal will not go down more than one half inch.
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How do you remove the brake booster rod from the brake pedal? The damn rod won't separate from that plastic housing. I've tried wedging a flathead in there but it's hard to see. I've been fighting with it all evening and finally gave up before I end up breaking it.
Found a DIY that just cut the rod to pull the brake pedal to remove it. I rather not do that as I will be reusing the one I have.
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My 97 F-150 (4.6 L) has developed what sounds like a vacuum leak under the driver's side dash somewhere above the pedals. I can't see anything obvious. It changes sound with various positions of the brake pedal, and I can make it stop with hard acceleration for a few seconds. The brake pedal feels the same. I'm assuming the problem is probably my brake booster, right? Or should I be looking elsewhere? If so, how hard is it to replace?
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I have a 1995 960 station wagon and a brake booster that appears to be leaking. On the passenger side of the firewall. As close as I can tell the leak seems to be right where the gaitor (rubber covering a rod) is.
1995 960 Wagon
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i have a 2010 Prius II that had a recall in 2013 on the brake boosted. I had a new booster pump put on and now three years later it has brake fade again. I am told from the dealer that it will cost 1800 to repair. So how long does a recall last.
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My brake booster is making noise for a few months now. It works ok and brakes are strong but the noise is there. Any way to quiet it down? Or how much the replacement might cost?
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