Toyota - Highlander :: 2005 - Dragging Or Grinding Noise From Rear Brake
Sep 21, 2011
I have a 2005 Highlander that had repeated rear brake noise problem after the dealership serviced the brake in May this year. The sound was like dragging or grinding. After that, I brought my car back but the noise came up every time in 3-7 days. Here is the of the service record from the dealership:
5/31/2011: initial maintenance. Rotor resurfaced, pad replaced
6/17/2011: Adjustment and lubrication.
7/13/2011: Replaced the pad.
8/20/2011: Technician could not hear the noise during drive test. Ticket withdrawn.
8/26/2011: Tighten e-brake, lubrication.
Tech told me the left and right brakes were not balanced. I recorded the noise in the following Youtube video: [URL] .....
Turn volume up and notice the last two stops. What I should say to the dealership service? I plan to take the car back in a few days.
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This type of SUV should be regarded as all-wheel-drive, but power is mostly delivered by the front tires. The rear tires are driven by an independent electric motor and differential. The front and rear drive trains operate separately; the only mechanical connection between them is the rest of the vehicle. I'm wondering if the electric motor could be slipping a little bit.
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1997 4.6L.. Have an intermittent grinding / dragging noise coming from the pulley (?timing) area that I'm trying to pin down. Both the alternator and tensioner were replaced prior to the noise starting. The ac compressor and the power steering pump are original. The fan clutch was replaced about 4 years ago and the water pump 8 years ago. Timing chain / guides / tensioner are all original.
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New to me 2005 with 99k miles
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So, I just returned home from a 7-day caribbean cruise to find my drivers side rear brake dragging...hard. I know it can happen to any car but it's aggravating none the less. I guess I'll limp the 2 miles to the dealer on Monday morning...
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Ever since I got a brake job, my brake lights have come on, all 8 of them. Traction Control, ABS, Brake, etc. Every once in a while they will go off and be normal for a day or two then they will come back on. The service center that did the brake job said everything looks good, it must be a faulty brake actuator.
The brakes work fine although on starting I have to remove my foor from the petal and then reapply it to move the transmission from park to drive. When on the highway doing 70 mph or so, when I take my foot off the accelerator I hear a pop coming from under the rear of the car mostly on the passenger side. In about 5 minutes, I'll hear it again. It sounds like pressure is being built up than all of a sudden released with a pop.
Actuator replacement and I rather not go through the expense if it is air in the brake line of a faulty sensor.
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My 2005 Camry started to make a, for a better work, "grinding" noise that appears to come from the left front side. It seems to appear around 40mph. Other symptoms:- the noise is not present when the car is in park even when revving up the engine- the noise appears to be correlated to the car/wheel speed - if placing the shift in neutral, the noise does not change while the speed doesn't change- if starting in 2nd gear, the noise only appears around 40mph when the engine is about 4500rpm.
Here it is a little hard to distinguish as the engine masks it- if switching the the 3rd gear, the noise does not change- if switching to "D", the noise does not change- coasting at neutral at more than 40mph still gives out the noise- when going over higher spots in the road (when the load of the wheels is reduced) the noise intensity goes down
There is no (or very low) noise at low speeds. Also, no noise when taking sharp turns. Had both front wheel bearings changed and the break pads, and the noise did not go away. I will be taking the car to a transmission place soon.
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My 2004 Toyota Highlander with 84K miles has been diagnosed with a seized front driver side brake caliper with worn brake pad (1/32). I had recall work done a few days ago at the dealership and this was discovered afterward during the "complimentary" multi-point check-up. - You know, the long laundry list of recommended work they try to sell you on. Of course the brake work is actually necessary.
Since the vehicle was just inspected 2 months ago at our local shop, my husband suggested I take it back there to verify the diagnosis and see what that mechanic would recommend. That mechanic confirmed and showed me the seized caliper/worn pad, which, by the way, was functioning well in mid January at inspection, and measured 7/32. This mechanic recommends replacing both calipers, pads, turning rotors. There was no indication of a problem with the RF caliper, but he says it's just a good idea to replace it so we would avoid having another problem in the future.
I want to ask everyone's opinion regarding replacement of just the bad caliper vs. both. Are we getting ripped off as far as the estimate and is the flush necessary? Also, is this issue typical in the first place, and what causes a brake caliper to seize? We've had several other vehicles driven many more miles than my Highlander and never experienced a seized caliper.
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after replacing rotors,calipers,pads,hoses and hardware with OEM parts TWICE now I'm still having issues with my brakes sticking and dragging!!! I am starting to suspect the pistons within the calipers themselves. I think that Quality (expensive) aftermarket parts is going to be my soulition but would like to get some input from some fellow Super Duty owners before I pull that trigger.
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I have a 2006 Subaru Forester with 115K miles. It's been well-maintained and well-loved.
For the past few months, the brakes have been inconsistently making a dragging/grinding noise when coming to a stop at low speeds (<5mph). It sounds to be coming from the front half of the car - I can feel it vibrating a little near the driver side. We've taken the car in to be looked at three times - each time, the mechanics think they've heard the noise and report there is absolutely nothing wrong with the brake pads or rotors. Twice they reported a shim was out of alignment. After the last shim adjustment, the noise got a little better - instead of grinding, it's more of a dragging sound now. Because the noise is inconsistent, I haven't been able to crack the formula of the conditions that produce it, other than that it only happens as I'm coming to a stop at very low speeds.
Is there something besides the brakes we should be having inspected? Does this sound safe to drive?
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My right rear brake is making a grinding noise when the brakes are applied. I took the drum off a couple weeks ago and the shoes are just a bit worn. Just getting into the numbers printed on the side of the shoe material.
I could not see any thing that would be making the metal on metal sound. Are there any wear indicators on the OEM shoes?
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