Toyota - Highlander :: 2004 - Front Driver Side Brake Caliper Seized?
Mar 23, 2013
My 2004 Toyota Highlander with 84K miles has been diagnosed with a seized front driver side brake caliper with worn brake pad (1/32). I had recall work done a few days ago at the dealership and this was discovered afterward during the "complimentary" multi-point check-up. - You know, the long laundry list of recommended work they try to sell you on. Of course the brake work is actually necessary.
Since the vehicle was just inspected 2 months ago at our local shop, my husband suggested I take it back there to verify the diagnosis and see what that mechanic would recommend. That mechanic confirmed and showed me the seized caliper/worn pad, which, by the way, was functioning well in mid January at inspection, and measured 7/32. This mechanic recommends replacing both calipers, pads, turning rotors. There was no indication of a problem with the RF caliper, but he says it's just a good idea to replace it so we would avoid having another problem in the future.
I want to ask everyone's opinion regarding replacement of just the bad caliper vs. both. Are we getting ripped off as far as the estimate and is the flush necessary? Also, is this issue typical in the first place, and what causes a brake caliper to seize? We've had several other vehicles driven many more miles than my Highlander and never experienced a seized caliper.
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I have an 05 with a seized front caliper. What other vehicle has the same one? Does 4 runner or any other Toyotas have the same caliper?
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Recently replaced 2 burned out brake lights on the drivers side. Discovered brake lights still don't work. Passenger side works fine. Exchanged bulbs but no luck. Brake lights still don't work. All running lights work as well as backup lights and turn signals. Just can't get the two drivers side lights to work.
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One of the pistons in my driver side (UK) front brake caliper is sticking, so I've bought a second hand caliper just to fix the problem until I come to sell my pri in a month or so.
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2005 Toyota Solara my front driver side caliper was sticking and heating up a couple months ago... replaced the caliper and the rotor... still had the same problem. I would drive it, it got hot and stuck, after I parked for a little while it slowly released. Talked to a couple of mechanics and they both said undoubtedly I had a bad flex hose and it was collapsing with pressure and then will release... I changed the flex hose and flushed the fluid and it was immediately fixed...no problems.
Drove the car for a month, went to South Carolina and back and then a couple days ago the same thing started happening. Talked to a mechanic, he told me that the new caliper may have gotten fried from over heating before I changed the flex hose... Got a new caliper today (warranty) exchange... changed it out and still have the same problem. When it sticks I can release the pressure by opening the bleeder valve so it seems like the flex hose issue again... my only thought now is maybe the new flex hose is a bad one and someone mentioned the proportioning valve.
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I have a 2005 chevy malibu maxx. The front driver side brake caliper does not retract unless i open the bleeder screw. if I leave it overnight it will retract until i have to use it a couple times then ill have to open the bleeder screw. I've been told if the piston retracts when i open the bleeder then the caliper is OK. What i should look for? (It does have ABS).
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History - So my A/C was going out about 6 months ago. It would come in and out with cold air until eventually it just stopped all cold air and was only hot. Then the control knobs broke. I took it in and they told me I had to replace the control unit and that would fix all the issues. Well I got it back and the A/C was still blowing hot air (even though the knobs were now working).
So I took it back in and they said they couldn't find anything wrong and it must be this hairline crack that was leaking freon. they said they couldn't find the crack but loaded it up with freon and said i would have to 'wait it out' could be years could be a few weeks, they just didn't know. well, it worked for awhile but here i am in 102 degree heat and when I turn on the A/C in the really hot car the passenger side quickly blows cold air and the driver side takes about 20 minutes before it finally gets cold. What gives? I do not have dual temperature controls.
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We have a 2003 Highlander which was having trouble changing from cld to warm air. We found posts about the common problem of the broken wire on the control panel behind the temperature control knob. I believe I was able to repair that by replacing the three wires on panel. The temperature changes from hot to cold now. However the air on the drivers side is luke warm. The passengers side is cold. We have had the freon charged and that hasn't worked.
I have tried adjusting the temperature on the floor heat, vents, and defrost and the temperature is split in the middle.I even looked under the dash shining a flashlight into the evaporator box through the floor vent and can see the blend doors and actuators moving from hot to cold and floor to vent. My wife is not a fan of being hot and I am not a fan of my wife being hot headed. Could there be a blend door on the drivers side that is partially blocked or out of sync. Can I get to it without removing the dash or evaporator box.
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My caliper gets seized when I disengage the emergency brake.
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This is my second time posting for the same issue on a 2003 3.5L with 120,000+ miles. Rear driver side brake caliper is stuck again. I have replaced both rear calipers after the driver side stuck a few months back. So most likely the first time was caused by something else.
What else could be causing this? Brake line, master cylinder, or other? I did not replace any brake lines the last time this happened. Just calipers and pads.
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I own an '05 Prerunner with 56k miles. Had the front pads replaced and turned the rotors last Spring.
Now, after sitting for awhile, as I back up the front brakes squeal. (Sounds like a rock in a caliper its so loud.)
Toyota has a TSB to fix this.
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Started to change front pads and rotors on my GX470, but couldn't get the caliper bolts loose. Is it safe to use a torch to heat up the area around the bolts so I can loosen the bolts? Any other way to break these bolts free?
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The power brake booster on our 2007 Toyota Highlander is broken and needs to be replaced. We asked our mechanic whether there are any brake-related recalls for our Make/Model/Year, and he said 'no'. Is this just our particular bad luck, or have others experienced similar problems with this SUV? It was scary. My husband was driving on the highway and needed to make a sudden stop due to a traffic slowdown. The brakes didn't respond, and he needed to slam down the brakes several times to get the brakes to work. No warning, the brakes just suddenlt stopped working.
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I purchased a used 2006 Toyota Highlander AWD about 4 months ago. Ever since I bought it, it has had a vibration / wobble from the front end that can be felt through the steering wheel and acceleration petal. Only happens between 40-45 mph. I have brought it to the dealer many times and every time they balance the tires. Last time they said it was a faulty motor mount and replaced it. The problem has not been fixed with this repair.
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I have a 2005 Highlander that had repeated rear brake noise problem after the dealership serviced the brake in May this year. The sound was like dragging or grinding. After that, I brought my car back but the noise came up every time in 3-7 days. Here is the of the service record from the dealership:
5/31/2011: initial maintenance. Rotor resurfaced, pad replaced
6/17/2011: Adjustment and lubrication.
7/13/2011: Replaced the pad.
8/20/2011: Technician could not hear the noise during drive test. Ticket withdrawn.
8/26/2011: Tighten e-brake, lubrication.
Tech told me the left and right brakes were not balanced. I recorded the noise in the following Youtube video: [URL] .....
Turn volume up and notice the last two stops. What I should say to the dealership service? I plan to take the car back in a few days.
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Just had front Rotors and 4 brake pads replaced. Afterward, I noticed after the car has been in motion for a few minutes, a low rumble sound and vibration occurs randomly and usually at low RPM 1500-2500. Vehicle is a 2009 Highlander 4 cyl at 72000 miles.
Toyota service dealer ran diagnostic check and could not find anything.
Second opinion - mechanic swears it's coming from transmission drum and beginning of trans going.
Third opinion- shocks are starting to go and likely root cause on the sound/sensation.
Fourth opinion, wheel alignment or warped rotor likely the cause.
Performed wheel alignment, slight improvement but rumble is still evident. One replaced rotor has a pronounced groove on exterior. Serviceman suggested we won the lottery and the groove came from a rock from the street hitting the rotor.
Finally, it was determined we need to replace intermediate drive shaft due to knocking sound when turning the steering wheel. Not likely related to the low rumble.
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I have a leak from the rear driver caliper, it seems to come from behind the bolts that hold the emergency brake to the caliper (I had my wife push the pedal repeatedly so I could find the issue). I haven't been able to remove the retaining bolts (the allen head bolt doesn't want to play) to see what the issue might be.
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I have a 2006 Toyota Corolla. There are two plastic covers on the undercarriage of the vehicle in the front.. The front driver's side is loose; the oil change told me the little clips are broken and they used a "strap" to hook it back up. Well, on the Fla turnpike, the strap lasted about 30 minutes
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I hit a curb in my 97 corolla now it's making a noise in the front driver side wheel well driving down the road, what it is?
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Yesterday (well for a while, but yesterday was bad) I had some brake issues, turns out the passenger side front caliper went bad (corroded, doesn't retract) so I need to get another one. Only place I saw Red caliper for my jazz blue for sale was on ecstuning and that was 189. Seems a little steep so I was wondering if there are any other places who sell the Red OEM calipers. If not I might just go through ecs.
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My car is a 2000 Corolla CE I bought 2 months ago with 45k miles. It does not have ABS system.
Before I took the mechanic:When I brake, there would be a "clamping" noise from the drivers front wheel sometimes. It sounds like the caliper "clamping" noise. The brake cylinder would also click the first time (and maybe second) the pedal is pressed.
The mechanic replaced the both front calipers, put new brake pads, installed rear drums and shoes, and changed brake fluid.
The brake pedal is now high and when I brake....it does brake but it's not like "instant stopping power" like new brake pads. Is this normal? (maybe I have to break them in). Also, the master cylinder is still clicking (I pump the brakes since my car has no ABS)....it clicks the first 2 times I pump. Is that normal?
Edit:Since the repair, I drove it for the second time. This time the brakes brake more "instantly". The clicking of the master cylinder is still there however, could this be due to air in the hoses?
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