Toyota - Highlander :: 2002 - Puff Of Blue Smoke On Most Startups
Jan 8, 2014
150,000 No loss of power. Only very small loss of oil in 3000 miles. Could it be valve seals. At what point is this a fix it problem. Would like to run car as long as possible. Great car. I had valve seals replaced years ago in a Chevy 305. That was so bad that I needed a stand off plug to prevent fouling and skipping. Should I look to trade or will the fix not be too bad.
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I have a 07 camry 4 cylinder with about 80k miles on it. Now on cold starts i started to notice that it will have a puff of blue smoke out the exhaust then it will go away right away and when i drive it there is no smoke and the car drives fine.
I did some research and Im thinking that it is the valve seals. Now my question has tried to sea foam it and then run thicker oil to see it it will stop the smoking? or will i just have to replace the valve seals?
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I was watching my wife drive off yesterday, and noticed a puff of blue smoke (oil) from the exhaust when she started moving.
This is a 2000 V6 passat. The car has a valve clatter when you first put a load on the engine that goes away quickly. I've read that this is likely the cam tensioners leaking down - is that right.
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I have a 00 dodge caravan. Has always been a good van. Recently when I start it up first thing in the morning there is a puff of blue smoke come out of the exhaust. This will not show up again if you start the van up wth in an hour or so. If you leave it for 3 or more hours you will get a puff of blue smoke but not as much as the one after it has sat all night. What this might be????
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I have a 2002 Toyota Highlander 6 cyl, 148,000 miles. I get a cloud of white smoke from the tailpipe upon starting a cold engine. Smokes for about 1-2 minutes, then smoke stops.
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I have a 1997 Nissan pickup with 269000 mile on it when you first crank it up after sitting all night a puff of blue or white or gray smoke come out of the tail pipe.
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My RX350 has less than 18K miles and it has signs of bad valve seals. If I start the vehicle after it sits for a while, a large puff of blue smoke emits from the tail pipe. My 02 Dodge with 188K miles doesn't even do this.
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I have a 91 camry that failed the CA smog test because it lets out a puff of smoke when you floor and release the throttle. Could it be anything other than the rings?
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My beloved excursion is 300 miles away from me in a no start condition. Vehicle has 270K miles. Very well cared for. No issues to date since purchase 5 years ago. Went to back up and the vehicle starting Caming like it had a big cam in it. went from reverse to drive and problem went away. Drove vehicle for 2 more weeks without issue. Then all of a sudden it dies. Restart driver on down the road 1/4 mile, dies again. Restart, make 45 mile drive home vehicle is low on power will hardly pull a grade but I got to my friends house. Went to start vehicle next day and no start. Puff white smoke while trying to start. It hits every once in awhile but wont run.
The vehicle is throwing NO CODES other than an open glow plug on 1&8 which it has for sometime now. I have changed, fuel filter, fuel pump, CPS(genuine ford), IPR and IPS. No real changes still wont start. I disconnected the IPS and it started but it sounded like it was only running on a couple of cylinders. It would not accept throttle. The local Forddealer does not have a Ford diesel tech. Ive called a couple of diesel shops and I hear could be a bad HPOP, or bad ECM or a bad IDM but without seeing it. I am at my wits end with this thing. I am an electronic engineer by background. So I have a good sense of the process. I have checked all fuses, relays, etc. I will say I did have one issue with it a year ago where the UVC problem popped up but the dealer fixed it and it has been fine ever since.
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In have a 2005 Toyota Camry with 120,000 miles. Upon starting the engine there is a puff of blue smoke with smell of oil burning. There does not appear to be any smoke during the running of the car. What the root cause could be? Rings? Head gasket?
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02 camry, 128 K miles, 4cyl.
Since I started using castrol titanium full syn oil, I have noticed increased blue smoke on initial start up, usually after overnight.
Time for another oil change, what OIL to go with? I was thinking back to Valvoline maxlife dino oil.
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I have a 02' Limited V10 with 202xxx and have come across new issues recently.
Occasionally when I start up the truck it spits out blue smoke BUT its only when it fires up then it's done.
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I have a 2002 2.4L Camry with 120K miles. I plan to keep it for another 10 years so want to get it in better shape. All I've done so far is air filters and changing the oil. I did let oil changes go way too long a few times then at 70K miles started emitting blue smoke only at startup after sitting overnight. It looks like valve stem seals so the engine uses oil now but it's tolerable and I really need to avoid spending big bucks unless there's a breakdown.
I've read about a procedure to replace the valve stem seals without removing the head using compressed air, but am a bit scared to try it for fear I will get in over my head.
I'm planning on getting up to date on all recommended inspections, changing spark plugs, coolant, air filter and cabin filter and plan on changing the oil from conventional over to 10w30 synthetic w/ subsequent 5,000 mile intervals from now on. I'm in a better financial situation now so can afford parts but want to try to do all labor myself unless a mechanic is necessary for something extremely important or critical.
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I am trying to replace the alternator. I have removed the top pivot bolt, the lower bolt going through the tensioning device, and the bolt that adjusts the tension. The thing still won't come out. I can move it up and down (like it is pivoting on the pivot bolt) but it won't come out from between the area that the pivot bolt slides into. Tried using a large screwdriver to pry it out but it doesn't budge.
Is there a secret to remove this that I haven't discovered?
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Everything electric works fine, windows, radio and all. The car will not start. New battery, still no start, not even trying. Put a new starter on and still nothing, but when you arc it you can hear it free spinning next to the fly wheel.... what to do next? some people have said it needs to be shimmed, how would I go about trying that?
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I have a 2002 Toyota Highlander that sort of chokes. At random times while driving, the car hesitates on acceleration, chokes a little, and then continues to accelerate. It is an automatic transmission but it feels like I can feel the shift in gears. usually happens at low speeds (20 mph). no matter time of day or warm up period. I have been having regular maintenance at dealer. there was a caution note that I would need spark plugs replaced... is this it? a result o f needing new spark plugs? or something else?
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In my 2002 Highlander, the top cluster of my center console controls (clock, hazard lights, passenger seatbelt warning, cycle air button, A/C button, rear defrost) have not been working for about two and a half weeks. It's been on my radar, but I hadn't had time to take it in yet. Drove fine, A/C worked, all of that – mostly just the clock was an inconvenience.
Two weekends ago, my battery died. Took it in, Advance checked it out and topped off the fluids, cleaned corrosion and sent me on my way – said the corrosion might just be shorting it out (it was bad), but that while the battery was old (4.5yrs) it might still be fine, so to try that and come back in 100 miles or so before buying a new battery.
Worked fine that week, died this past Saturday. Went in to get a replacement battery, had it put in, all good. Chugged a little on the first start after the battery was installed, had them check the starter/alternator, they were fine. Started normal after the first time.
Went to leave, and noticed my air conditioning was now coming out of the defrost, instead of the forward setting I left it on. Long story short, now that dial doesn't work, and I can't change the airflow direction. (Something with the battery resetting the switch to the default).
The temperature control still seems to work – it doesn't get quite as cold as it did (not sure if that's a new issue as well, or just how the defrost portion works). I can also still change the strength of the air blowing out – basically, the other two A/C controls work, I just can't change WHERE it's blowing out.
My guess was that it would be fuse-related, but I checked all the fuses that I could tell from the manual might have something to do with the A/C (or the center console controls I mentioned), and none looked blown/broken. What I could look for?
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Got a 2002 7.3 F-350 with 300,000 miles and for the last couple of years I've been getting blue smoke on cold morning start ups and its been gradually getting worse, it clears up after about 30 seconds and all is normal,No loss of performance, Oil consumption is minor, however I hate a vehicle that blue smokes, I'm guessing my issue is valve seals are worn, I was wondering if it is possible to replace the seals while the heads are on the engine? and was also wondering how much time it would take to fix? as i would have to have it professionally done. I know its hard to guess a time frame and everyone is different. Sounds like textbook valve seals to me but is there anything else I should check first?
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I have a 2002 Toyota Highlander. The rear right turn signal and break light don't work when I apply the brakes. When I use the turn signal or brakes while driving or parked there is no problem, but once I apply the break the back right side does not work. The light bulbs also burn out faster on that side.
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My 2002 Toyota Highlander burned up to a quart of oil very 300 miles when on a recent long distance freeway trip. It must be burning it out the back as there is no drip. Clearly, there is a leak, but why only when driving on long freeway trips? Can this be due to pressure build-up and a clogged PCV?
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Well, tonight while driving, I started to smell something burning. I just thought it was something outside. All of a sudden I see a little puff of smoke rise up off to my left side. A hot spot had developed and burned through the leather.
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