Toyota - Fuses - Yaris :: 2007 - A/C Not Blowing Cold After Total Engine Replacement
Apr 11, 2014
In January I had to replace my engine in a 2007 Toyota Yaris. Last week we had the first day, since the engine replacement, that I needed to use the air. The fan blows air, it just isn't cold. Could this be anything to do with the engine replacement? Maybe they didn't hook something up properly? Do the drain the coolant to the ac when they take out the engine? I have been reading that it may simply be a fuse or needs to be charged. I realize I should have checked the a/c when I picked it up, but at -8 below, air conditioning doesn't cross your mind.
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Suddenly my 2007 Sonata Limited trunk and gas lid fuse keeps blowing.
I'm not an electrical guy so I don't know how to check with a meter, I oiled the latches. My car was rear ended near the tank lid/bumper area a few years ago, but everything worked fine til recently.
I can replace the fuse, but after a few uses it will blow, sometimes it will blow without being used. I can't tell if it's the trunk or gas lid causing the problem because nothing will happen immediately, Basically I am only finding out my fuse blew when I need to use it.
Where I could look to inspect the wiring for kinks or it's connection run?
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I own a 94 Toyota Pickup with 265000 on it. And I have a question. It blows white smoke but ONLY when the engine is cold. Is this something major? Or can I ignore it?
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In my 2007 SF Ltd 3.3L both the Cig lighter and front console power outlet keep blowing fuses. I've checked inside the of the sockets and they seem just fine. This is no big deal but I would like to charge my phone. What I should look at next?
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Just bought little Echo and it's blowing hot air when the ac is on if I turn the ac off with the selector in the blue it's still hot. I used the gauge off a old ac recharger can and its showing the right amount of Freon and the compressor clutch is spinning. I am really wanting to fix it cheap , since I got it for 1200.
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The stock air conditioning system in my 2003 Echo failed abruptly last week. The air no longer blows cold when the system is turned on. I've also noticed that the engine "hum" no longer changes frequency (gets lower because of what I assume is the added load) when I turn the A/C on. I checked the fuse and it looks intact.
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I have a 2006 Scion XB I purchased last year. Last week the air was blowing cold in town and then blowing warm at highway speed. I took it to my mechanic who charged the system (said it was a pound low) and said he did not detect any leaks. Now suddenly it stops blowing cold altogether. Not all the time. It blows cold in the morning. Then in the afternoon when I leave work it blows hot. But I can stop the car a few miles down the road, turn the car off, start it back up, and it blows cold....
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The previous owner broke the key off in the ignition so I replace the ignition lock cylinder the problem is though even with the old one I can't turn the key to lock so it's stuck on acc. What I can try without replacing the entire column? Also it needs a catalytic converter, do I have to weld a universal one on ?
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My 2004 GX470 started to have intermittent problems the last 2 weeks, where you would start up the engine and sometimes the A/C would not come on. Today it won't come on at all.
I homed out the fuse in the engine block for the A/C using my digital multimeter, and another smaller fuse that was a 7.5 Amp fuse, but and they check out, so the problem must be something else.
The A/C appears to be doing this whether the engine is cold in the morning or hot after you have driven it, and our temperature gauge is normal, and no check engine lights. Why the A/C is not coming on?
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My a/c was blowing but the air wasn't cold. No freon, so the dealer loaded up with freon containing a tracer. After a week, the tracer is coming out of the evaporator drain only, which implicates the evaporator as the source of the leak.
I just hit 150K miles and was extolling my repair free existence, when I had to do the front struts, brakes, and new tires (again); followed by this. Can't find a reference to evaporator leaks anywhere (a lot of mold maybe, but nothing requiring replacement. Did my luck just run out, or is this more common than I think?
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My husband and I have a 2007 Yaris (purchased new in May '07) with 23,300 miles on it. He's super-religious about taking the car in and getting it serviced and maintained regularly. But we noticed a few days ago that the A/C wasn't putting out cold air. My first thought is that it's simply out of freon and needs to be serviced.
But it just seems odd (or at least to this know-nothing!) that it could be out of freon already. My husband mainly drives it and says he doesn't run the air "any more than anyone else." Is it possible that even at 14 months it's just simply out of freon? I've never heard of a car's A/C system running out of freon so quickly.
Also, we were out of town for a week; the car wasn't driven during that time. We noticed the problem the first time we drove it upon returning home. That couldn't have anything to do with it, could it?
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The car required a new water pump, the mechanic suggested to also replace the serpentine belt because of age - after a week the car made high pitch noise when started, the noise stopped after the initial start-at the shop it was explained that a new serpentine belt requires tightening after the car has been driven for a while - like a week- is this correct or was the belt not installed correctly....
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I just bought my first car: a 2007 Toyota Yaris. It has a torn CV boot on the driver's side (don't worry, I was aware of this when I bought it). I've done my homework, and I understand that if I do nothing, at some point I will start to hear a clicking or clunking sound when turning the wheel, that will gradually grow louder over time. Eventually, I'll be driving along, and the CV joint will break for good, resulting in either:
a) the gas pedal won't propel the car, I will slam on the breaks and be stuck on the side of the road, or
b) (in rare cases) the driver's side wheel will fly off, leaving me stuck in the ditch, and possibly dead.
I don't want
a) to happen, but I really don't want
b)! I've also learned that replacing the whole CV axle is probably the best fix for this, and that the a cheap way to do it is to order the part myself and bring it to a mechanic.
So here's my question: Should I absolutely be fixing this before I drive to Michigan? In other words, if I don't fix, and then get 50 miles into driving to Michigan, and start hearing that click-click-click sound, am I screwed? Once the clicking starts, do you think the joint would fail before 1500 miles, or do I have a grace period?
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I have an 07 Toyota Vitz and Side lamps, Tailgate lamps and number plate light are remaining off... Normal and bright works fine...
Checked fusses and are all good.
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A couple of months ago my Yaris was hit just behind the driver side door by a Ford F150, luckily traveling at a low speed. Other than body damage, my car seemed to be fine. After driving the car around for 2 weeks with the damage then taking it in for its 10 day repair, I brought home my wonderful little car. I live in Florida and even though it's winter, we had a rather warm day, just a couple days after bringing my car back home. I turned on the AC and ...nothing came out. So I tried it on higher settings and ...still nothing came out until I got to the highest blower setting. Suddenly it sounded like someone had turned a blender on inside my car but some air was making its way out of my blowers.
I called the shop that did my repairs and they said "well, you probably just blew a fuse. It's not accident related so we can't take care of it without charging you." My understanding was that I would not be able to get my blower to work at all if a fuse was blown, and my air certainly worked following the accident and prior to getting repairs done. If a fuse was blown, I'm willing to bet a lot of money that the shop was responsible. ...the fact that they also broke my glove compartment, got paint all over my seat, and made my car smell like a paint store also make me weary of using them again, but my insurance company swears by them. First of all, what is wrong with my car? Second of all, how do I fix it?
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I've already replaced the Alternator and Water Pump today and I still cannot get rid of the noise and cold start squeal. The squeal goes away after the engine is warmed. A/C Compressor?
[URL] ....
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When i turn on the ac its cold for about a few mins and after it just starts to blow air and its not cold anymore, also it smells funny when i turn the fan on for a few seconds.
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I bought a 2007 Toyota Yaris about 12,000 miles ago in March of this year. Automatic transmission, it now has around 72,500 miles on it. Recently, I have noticed a "clunking" sound/feeling when I shift from park to drive while on an incline. It doesn't matter if I am going from park to reverse, or visa versa. It is more of a feeling... like something is broken and shifting forward or backwards more quickly/violently that it should, but I can hear it slightly. There is no such sound/sensation on level ground.
Temperature/weather is not a factor. Is this a symptom of a bad motor mount/tranny mount? I had a bad motor mount on a previous car, and experienced a rattling noise while idling. There is no such noise or vibration with this car. I do not have a stable mechanic yet and would like an opinion before I try and establish a relationship with one (considering I am a small 25 year old woman who looks 17-18 years old, and I am not normally taken seriously).
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I have a 94 toyota pick up automatic and my ac works great while I am driving. As soon as I come to a stop light and I am sitting and waiting for it to turn green. The air still blows from my ac but it isn't cold. My truck works great it has about 210,000 miles.
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I have a 2001 Olds Alero. The AC compressor went out so my father in law and I replaced it. It worked fine for about one month, not it keeps blowing the a 10 amp fuse (can't remember which one at this moment, my wife is at the store with the car). I have been told that it is a bad wire, I can't see any pinche wires and have looked up to where the wires go into the tape/plastic casing. I have also been told that it is the compressor that is doing it (the parts store said this was not the case... I think they just don't wanna warranty anything).
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I purchased a build Dec 05 1.3l Yaris several months ago. I recently started to get a check engine light, so I did a scan of the computer and it returned a P0012 error. Though multiple searches, I learned that this is likely due to the Camshaft Timing Control Valve Assembly or possibly the OCV filter.
Further searches haven't been able to reveal which parts I need to purchase to replace these items. I can only find details for the 1.5l engine.
The engine is: 2nz-fe, model: ncp90r-agmrkq
1. I don't even know where these parts are located on the car?
2. What part numbers do I need to purchase to replace?
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