I've replaced all (3) ignition coils, both O2 sensors, wires and plugs, air filter, fuel filter...Also experience some missing at low rpms as well...not sure what the problem is?
View 4 RepliesMy 1989 Ford Ranger 2,9 V6 is acting up like crazy (engine hesitation) after kick down (it has an automatic transmission).
It can run like a charm for days and days and for the longest drives, but if I do a kick down it will start acting up (while both cruising or idling). This is making it almost impossible to drive as it looses speed. Only way to accelerate again is to do another kick down (then it will accelerate smoothly for as long as I keep my foot down), but that is really no solution as it will accelerate way past the speed limits and the mpg is horrible going up and down like that.
A couple of times this problem has seemed to solved itself after a while of engine hesitation but normally it would be acting up for the whole drive. On the other hand it will be okay again the next time I take it out for a drive.
Diagnostics: It has nothing to do with the temperature of the motor as this will happen after a kick down on both a cold or hot engine.
Simple solution so far: Avoid kick down!
What I have done so far: I have changed the spark plugs, the plug wires, the distributor rotor and the distributor cap with no luck.
Searched but did not find. Just bought a 2015 Accent hatchback. Only issue I have had is a lean bucking of the engine if you don't have enough throttle (RPM). From a standing start, the auto trans will shift from 1st to 2nd to 3rd very quickly if you are going real slow. I have to give it at least 1/4 throttle and accelerate quickly to keep the trans from shifting too soon. So far I have 2000 miles and 1 oil change, running 93 octane gas. Is this condition normal?
View 7 RepliesI am wondering where I might find the approximate rpms for being in 5th and 6th at 70 miles and hour. I am wondering if it is shifting into 6th as the mileage is significantly lower than the AVG shown in the display.
View 6 RepliesDriving around town it doesn't happen too often. Like if I am starting from a stop it feels fine but when going up a hill or passing on the highway it bucks and shakes and doesn't want to go over 3000 rpm. Also, the check engine light is on and it flashes when it's really bad. I took apart the intake and didn't see anything weird. I am about to take it in to see what the code says because it's been getting worse.
View 6 RepliesNearly new Camry with 9,000 miles. When trying to get back up to speed after making right or left turns, there is a definite hesitation before accelerating. No hesitation when accelerating from a dead stop. Also transmission kicks down at very small hills/grades where if not on cruise control, it would not need to "kick down" to maintain speed. This is a 4 cylinder engine and provides adequate power when not running in "cruise". I suppose this is just the nature of the breed. Except for these two small problems, it is a fine comfortable car.
View 3 Replies I have been experiencing this one for quite a while now. The car is a 2003 GTI VR6 24v. It is stock other than a 3" hole in the bottom of the airbox to pull in cooler air.
When I am sitting in traffic, and in 1st or 2nd gear, keeping a consistent speed (10-15mph) and application of the throttle (not moving my foot at all), the car sometimes just decelerates/hesitates/bucks a little by itself, and kind of feels like it is hiccuping or not getting enough air or something.
At high rpm, or in any gear above 2nd, I don't feel the hesitation and the engine runs great and pulls hard. No MIL lights on the dash, and no other problems with it.
Is this normal for manual VW's? Or maybe the hesitation coming from the engine not getting a consistent airflow from the hole in the airbox?
Some of you with TDI's equipped with DSG's may or may not have these issues - but now there appears to be a fix. I've had a problem with a long delay in the DSG engaging from a stop. Also, I've had some engine hesitation and lurching issues.
Here is information from my paperwork after having those issues repaired. There was an ECM Software update to fix engine hesitation and lurching at low speed. That problem seems to be fixed.
UPDATE NUMBER: 23602599
Huge delay in the engagement of the DSG from a stop. There was a TSB for this specific issue dated on June 16, 2011. After my initial drive from the dealership to work --- this problem also appears to be fixed.
TSB NUMBER: 2011690/3 35-11-01
I took my car in for a clutch install, everything was fine except the clutch slipping. I go to pick up my car and once the car warmed up it started bucking / limp mode while accelerating. Take it back to the mechanic and he thinks he didn't reset the throttle body. So he says that should be it and I pull away. Same thing. Leave it with him again and he replaces with "diag" coils and new plugs. Leave again, same thing. He tells me to get totally new coils and try that. I am thinking its a missed ground cable or messed up ECU or something. During all this not one code it thrown.
20th GTI 1.8T 6 speed, stock clutch, all stock
Dealer is telling me I need a fuel pressure sensor. I was hoping it would be the PEM which is still under the extended warranty. Is the sensor and the PEM one and the same? By the way, 99% of the time the car runs normally. Assuming the sensor and the PEM are different, could the sensor flat out totally fail at any time?
Dealer is suggesting to replace the negative battery cable!! I remember replacing old cables in my old cars, admittedly many decades ago for a few bucks. Even considering that it is a different world now, can a cable cost that much. Dealer is asking Volvo to consider the sensor as warranty or to participate because I had complained about hesitation more than once starting about five years ago, but they found nothing at that time. My complaint is still in their computer system.
2005 Volvo s40 t5
My Daughter owns a 2000 Camry. It has a very annoying habit of not starting when it is warm (think driving to the gas station, turning the car off to fill it and then it doesn't start again). We have tried new solenoids, a new starter and several other tweaks but nothing seems to fix the problem. Recently she discovered if she jiggles the gear shift lever (it's an automatic) it will start. So, obviously she gear shift lever is not finding Park or Neutral so that it can be in position to start. She has experimented with this concept and it appears to be the only thing that consistently solves the starting issue. What would we have to fix in the gear shift lever, or elsewhere, to fix this problem?
View 5 RepliesWhen I am on the highway, my 2005 Excursion (6.0) will hesitate/sputter/buck intermittently, usually between 70-80mph/ 1800-2200 RPM, but especially triggered by hills and inclines. Each sputtering episode usually lasts about 5-10 seconds and then will go away for minutes at a time. Does not sputter upon take off or initial acceleration. There is no smoke of any kind. Just got it out of the shop where the mechanic replaced ALL 8 injectors and the fuel pump, as well as flushed the fuel lines, and new fuel filters, and oil change (2 injectors were bad, but there was metal in the fuel filters, so to be safe I replaced all of them - ALL OEM PARTS for everything, including filters).
The week before, I had the IPR valve replaced. Also, recently had the back pressure sensor replaced and the EGR was deleted - and turbo cleaned when the EGR was deleted last month. I also tried unplugging the ICP sensor to make sure that wasn't the issue. Dropped $6k into this thing in the past month and about to lose my mind (and wallet). All research points to either clogged EGR or bad fuel injectors, but both have been addressed, so I am not sure where to look next. No current codes showing up. No signs of leaking oil.
Have just about 1,600 miles on tuck born on 12/14/11. Love it, but.. When going slow in subdivision I am getting some hesitation/bucking when going in the upper 20s/lower 30s. When I feel it I look down and I am usually in 3rd. Is this the transmissible thing? When it happened Sunday it felt like it was going to die. If I start off with a quicker start (to get to highway speed) it shifts fine. It just started the last few weekends......
View 14 RepliesOk,I have brought my car (2005 Toyota Echo) into the shop three times and they can't figure it out. I have summer and winter tires. Last summer the summer tires were fine, the winter tires were fine, then I changed the front tires, and couldn't remove the back tires (I hit them with a hammer and 2x4 and they didn't come off). From that point on my car has vibrated at around 60mph, but not 100% of the time.
I took the car in to the mechanic, they changed the back tire for me and balanced the front...still vibrates, they then balanced the back...still vibrates. Now they say the disk rotor is bent, and want to fix that but aren't sure that will fix the problem. What's going on, I changed the front tires and now the car vibrates at high speed most of the time, but not all the time.
I have an '02 Camry with 82,000 miles. I recently noticed a clicking from the front left wheel starting at 68-70 mph. The click varies in frequency with slight bumps in the road. It seems to stop if I touch the brakes, and it might get less if the road turns enough to increase the G force (not too many times on highway going this speed on a curvy road, so I'm not sure.) It never happens under 65 mph.
We recently had local flooding and I drove through about 8 inches of water. The noise was a few days later in dry weather at 80 degrees. It did not occur when the car was starting off cool, but not until I was driving for about 5-10 minutes. The tire and wheel look OK, but it has not been on a lift nor have I been to a mechanic yet. I don't want to get talked into expensive repairs that I don't need, but I don't want to put off something now that is dangerous or will turn into a bigger expense later.
I own a 1987 Plymouth Horizon, 70, 000 miles on it. Long story short, The car sat for 3 years without being driven. It would just be started up whenever the other owners wanted to. I have fixed a lot of its problems, and replaced tires, brakes, hoses, belts etc.. Problem I am having is when itis started up it is at a very high idle and will not allow you to kick it down till it warms up or it idles down on it's own after being warm. I have sprayed carburetor cleaner around the linkage and so on but it still does it. What could be causing it?
Like I said the car sat for 3 years and did have gas in it when I bought it and not being able to drain out the old gas I put HEET gas-line antifreeze & water remover in it. The fuel filter has been changed out twice. Once you get it on the road it runs like a champ for being 24 years old. It's just the high idle when you first start it up. The owner of it had some little quirks I guess you would say. He had and they are still there, two clothes pens on the gas rail/line and they were there because of vapor lock. They are located on two different parts of the line I guess to balance it out. Now I don't know if this is true or how even remotely possible two clothes pens could have anything to work with vapor lock. Now I do know that on occasion it will run a bit and stop when you cut off the engine, though not all the time....
I have a 2009 SantaFe Diesel and am having a few issues.
Firstly, of late it has been running rough when I back off the accelerator but hold the current speed. Almost like a mis-firing feeling. AT about 1500 RPM
Secondly, I was driving down the freeway recently, the car started to labour going up a long hill, so I tried to kick it back a gear using the accelerator but it wouldn't do it. It stayed in top gear and struggled. I had to manually do it with the gearshift.
About 12 months ago, I was having problems with the car completely losing power on a quick takeoff from standing still (say at a roundabout) but that seemed to fix itself.
I have a 1997 Oldsmobile 88 (174K miles, owned only by my father-in-law and then me) with which I am experiencing a hesitation problem from time to time at highway speed. My mechanic has taken the car on several highway test drives throughout the last two days, and he has been unable to reproduce the problem. Furthermore, he has done a full diagnostic test and found no problems with the fuel system, ignition system, or anything else.
Here are the conditions under which the problem occurs:
---Attempting to accelerate gradually at highway speed (usually from 50-60 mph), but WITHOUT pushing the gas pedal down so far as to cause the transmission to downshift
---Engine fully warmed up (temp gauge at 200 F or just below)
---Occurs more often when I have been driving for at least 1-2 hours
The condition is as follows:
---Car lurches/surges noticeably and does not accelerate
---Speedometer needle reflects the lurching by fluctuating up and down about 1 to 2 mph
---Accelerates well if I step down hard enough to cause the transmission to downshift, or stops surging if I lift off the gas pedal
---NO Check Engine light at any time
Some history on the car and corrective actions taken:
---June 2009: My mother-in-law was driving the car about 6 hours into our trip and it consistently hesitated between 50 and 55 mph with the Check Engine light on for the last 30 miles or so of our trip. The next day, we took the car to the dealer where my in-laws had their cars serviced (note the past tense here), where they told us that "there's probably something wrong inside the transmission" and suggested that we replace the transmission with a new one. This transmission is the second new one the car has had (replaced the first time at 95K miles), meaning that this transmission had less than 80K miles at the time. We took the car to a local shop at the referral of a friend, and this mechanic suggested we try flushing the transmission fluid and replacing the filter to see if that would fix the problem before we started talking about replacing the whole transmission. This worked, and we were glad that we did not have to get rid of the car. Did not notice any more problems with this for over a year.
---May 2010: Experienced engine misfire, had spark plug wires replaced. Problem solved.
---March 2011: First noticed my current problem. Had fuel filter replaced (it was probably a little overdue) and had the mechanics do a fuel system cleaning.
---April 2011: Problem still occurs.
---Had throttle body thoroughly cleaned, which fixed a slight sticking in the gas pedal.
---Replaced spark plugs myself. Car running more smoothly overall, but the hesitation still occurs.
---Inspected all three ignition coil packs myself. Top coil pack had some rust on the poles, which caused the resistance to measure as zero. Cleaned most of the rust off the poles, after which all three packs bench tested at 6.23 (with 20000 ohm setting on multimeter). Car runs even more smoothly overall, but hesitation persists.
At this point, my mechanic and I are both stumped as to what could be causing the hesitation problem. My only thought right now is to try replacing the one coil pack that had rust on it, since a pack with a fault I can see may have others inside that I can't see, and maybe something like this is flaking out on an intermittent basis.
My toyota will not idle. The last time this happened, it needed a new battery. The idle is controlled by the battery. The alternator doesn't kick in untill 1500 to 2000 rpms. The battery checks out OK this time. It's an 03 4cyl.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2002 camry with 212000 miles on it and just lately when driving at a constant speed 60 mph or over it starts to buck or jerk a little bit and you can feel it in the seat. I've had the throttle body cleaned and put in a new mass air flow sensor and it hasn't fixed it yet. What might be causing this? It doesn't do it when accelerating or slowing down.
View 9 RepliesI recently picked up a 2001 Nissan sentra. This car sat since around 2010. I guess the previous owner had a lot of work done by the dealer a year or so ago and it looks it, brake pads etc. are brand new, a couple other things look new but he's not a car guy in the slightest and can't find the receipt nor will the dealer give him one due to computer system change and I actually tried with them myself, that's correct.
Anyway, the check engine light is on and bringing it home we had reports of black smoke out the exhaust. It also felt like it wanted to stall at times when stopped but it never did. Well, I ran it a while and at times it seemed like it wanted to clear up, at others it didn't but the light stayed on and what not. I scanned it and it claimed the O2 sensor 1 bank 2 was bad so I replaced it.
It didn't make any difference so I cleaned the Mass Air flow sensor. Again no good it's the same. Here's the funny thing though, it's great first thing in the morning usually. As the day goes on and as we drive it, it gets worse. What I can try/change next?
I'm almost leaning on electrical issue where it gets worse as the day goes on and dew dries off. I'm new to Nissan's, I like the car and really want to work this issue out. I did replace the fuel pump when I got the car, and have run sea foam through and actually on that tank of gas it ran pretty good but that's worked itself out now.