Toyota - Engines - Tundra - Transmissions - Diagnostics :: Bogs Down Under Load But Not When Using Cruise Control
Aug 10, 2016
My 01 tundra can bog down under load - going up a long hill or towing a trailer - with the speed and RPMs steadily dropping until it finally downshifts, and the RPMS shoot up to 4k or so, but I don't regain much speed. This is without cruise control. If I have the cruise control on the problem does not occur. The truck slows, but in a normal way expected under the circumstances. The CEL is not on. No codes are being recorded. The Tranny fluid is full and smells fine.
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Not sure if this should be under the technical section but is there a way to modify the cruise control to be set to a position on the hsi and not based on the speed. After all it is all electronic.
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So I have two issues one bad and one worse both while driving in the rain. Hyundai Elantra 2010 Automatic 4cyl, Bad scenario: the car refuses to shift (up/down) after something is getting wet, just this morning we had really nasty rain and this happened car feels like it's stuck in second gear. RPM was @ 3000 while going 45/50 MPH is this normal? But you can feel and hear the car is not shifting up or down while stopping at a light MPH 0 RPM 1000 when accelerating from the stop I have to press the pedal more the usual almost like no power and RPMs just go back up to 3000 and still can't feel the shifting from 1rst to 2nd almost like its just stuck in 2nd..
Worse scenario: Same instance driving in the rain - something gets wet? and my engine/trans ? all the sudden jerks/kicks with a thump/thud noise the jerk and noise might be at the same time the car is shifting between gears not sure. If I keep trying to drive it keeps kicking and jerking so I don't tempt it in case I make something worse off, one time this happened I had to keep going to get off the road safely and it did through the engine light on the rain stopped while I was pulled over so I sat for an hour let it dry out some and the car ran fine.. What could this be??? When the car is dry runs just fine, I even had the dealer do some trouble shooting 2 weeks ago cuz I had the worse happen and had to have it towed and he couldn't re-create the prob. nor find what it could be..
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Here's the situation -- 2009 Camry, 32,000 mi. No recalls on record for its VIN. Parked in parking lot and preparing to leave. NOTE: At no time does my foot touch the gas pedal. OK...Foot on brake. Start engine, shift to reverse and back up under idle power. Turn wheel to align for departure and stop. Foot still on brake; shift into drive. Uncommanded (by me) engine RPM shoots up! Now hard on brake to stop forward lurch while simultaneously shifting to neutral. Engine RPM now screaming. Shut off ignition. Again, no touching of gas petal in this whole process. Turn the car back on and all it normal All has been normal for a month. Can't get the incident to repeat. No "check engine" lights at any time. Car operates perfectly.
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2002 Hyundia Accent -- 1.6 DOHC 2D
When I get to 2700-2900 RPM Under load my car will chug out (basically lose power all together for a brief second) then it will come back and chug out again. I am able to max out RPM's while doing this however under load it still chugs along. WHEN not under load it rev's up fine and purr's like a kitten.
So I went and got a new motor for this car same model as was in the car before a 1.6 DOHC. However upon replacing it (also attached still was the timing belt and clutch assembly, never taken off)
So it seems to be getting spark just fine. and I replaced the MAP sensor thinking it was a intake issue however still problem exists when I am under load between 2700 - 2900 RPM it bogs out for a second losing all power.
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Alright I drive a 05 1.8t with 68k original miles.. nder a full load my car bogs and hesitates. also my turbo will stop spooling and my boost gauge will go from 10 pounds to about 4 and i will have to let go of the gas and push down again for my turbo to spool.. What this could be I can't figure it out..
Here is my car.....
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While driving to Calif. from Ariz., on I 10, dropping down into Indio on a mild grade, at 75mph, when I came to the steepest section the transmission down shifted, rpm's rose and it felt like the engine was keeping the mph at the set speed, by providing more drag which it did. I have had many auto with transmissions and cruise control, been descending steeper grades, and never have had this happen. The vehicle is a 2014 Avalon. It would be a nice feature if it had been designed to do this auto braking, but I don't think that it ia supposed to do this?
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Ive had my Camry since around September of last year. It had between 100-110k miles at the time of purchase.
In the last 3 months, Ive started to notice that sometimes when I am on the road & switch on the cruise control, the setting appears to have trouble engaging. On some occasions the cruise control does not even switch on at all when I hit the "set" button, while at other times I can feel the setting turn on and off intermittently, while I feel the engine respond accordingly with more or less gas with each time it goes on and off.I can also see the cruise control light on my dashboard begin to flash on and off each time this happens.
This does not happen every time I drive, but I must say Ive never seen anything like this before in any other car Ive ever had, and I find whats happening here to be both very strange as well as very annoying.
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I have a 2005 Suzuki Aerio with an automatic transmission. Occasionally, maybe once every month or two, the check engine light will come on while I am driving and the car will immediately stop down-shifting from 3rd gear. The car otherwise seems to run fine but I end up having to manually shift to get to wherever I am going. Then on my next trip, the transmission will shift fine but the check engine light will stay on for an additional trip or two and then go off. What is going on. By the time I get to it the light is off again and the car seems to function fine.
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My Prius cruise control will intermittently not activate when I try to turn it on. One day it will turn on and work fine. The next day I can not get it to turn on. I took the panel off of the back side of the lever and the contacts look ok for the on/off button.
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The car is a 2010 Corolla S with about 85K miles, I bought used in Jan 2015. This problem mostly happens when I am using the cruise control. I will be going up a hill at about 65 and regularly but not always the trany will downshift with a very hard "bang" like running over a pipe. It will make the shifts in a normal smooth manner at other times going up hills in cruise control. This hard shift is very abrupt and startling if not ready for it. In can do this when not in cruise control if at highway speed in accelerate to pass but not as consistent. It has not done it at in town driving.
I took it to the dealer, as I had a warranty, and took the tech for a ride so he could feel it. I was told the next day the warranty company says this is "normal" behavior. I do not believe this to be normal.
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I'm worried about my beloved 02 Toyota Rav4. She's been a great car, we've driven all over the continent, never had a mechanical problem. Lately, particularly on humid days, my cruise control will stop working mid-trip and at the same time the RPMs start running high, nearly twice what they usually are. It lasts until I get home, next time I start her she's fine. The guys at the shop never find anything. The engine control module was replaced last year under an "extended warranty."
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I have a 2000 Toyota Sienna. At first I noticed that the dashboard light showing the left turn signal was on would light up when I put on the headlights. A few days later, I discovered that the left turn signal stops working when I apply the break. Also, when I'm using cruise control and use my left turn signal, the cruise control stops maintaining speed.
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I'm getting a weird code on my engine it's p1298 which is electric load detector circuit high input and I'm also getting 3 misfire codes but the car runs great what can I do to fix these.
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My 2001 tundra v8 4.7 liters. Will not go past 90 miles per hour.I'm not a speed person but I like to know my truck is in top shape.Odo reads 99073 on the i way I tried pushing it to a 100 mph but it not go, what's happening to my truck...
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I have an 05 Tundra. I was backing out of my driveway and got into the street and put the truck into drive and nothing. I then tried reverse and again no movement. No prior problems with the transmission. I cannot even find the dip stick to check the fluid. What might be wrong with this trans or truck?
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Okay, 2000 Tundra (185,000 miles) starts out with usual pressure. After driving a ways pressure drops down to dangerously low and stays there (not detectable when driving, other than gauge). Mechanics measure same pressure drop using alternate pressure gauge at engine. They assumed oil pump, which would mean pulling engine, but were advised bad oil pump is very unlikely on that Tundra (and I don't think the symptoms quite suggest that), and also advised that oil suction tube could be clogged, also necessitating pulling engine, but oil has been kept fairly clean. Car also sits for long periods.
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I have a 2005 Tundra, 60K miles. Dealership just told me the frame is rusted out, with actual holes in frame under driver side. Said car was unsafe to drive or have on road. Called Toyota and opened case but said I was out of warranty and they were not accountable.
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My car has been have overdrive problems for a long time while driving on the highway it will stay in overdrive as long as i keep my foot on gas pedal or brake or in cruise control as soon as i get on the highway. As soon as i go off cruise so does the overdrive and will not go back in till i shut the car off and start it right back up. It makes for a long trip. I had trany oil changed does not effect it at all.
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I can hear a "ringing" noise that appears to be coming from one of the wheels. I can hear the noise when I have my windows down and am driving at slower speeds. The noise sounds similar to a bell ringing and the sound disappears when I apply the brakes.
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I had the oil changed recently in my 2008 tundra 5.7 v-8. I noticed the oil pressure gauge moving. When I started the truck, I noticed the gauge will move to the right of the indicator in the middle of the gauge and then it will go back to the middle mark on the gauge when it is warmed up. I also notice that it moves a little when I accelerate. Maybe it has done this in the past and I just have not noticed but was wondering if I should be concerned.
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