Toyota - Engines - Damage - Airconditioning :: 1989 - Cooler Condenser Appears To Be Shot
Aug 13, 2011
I have an '89 Toyota Truck, manual V6, and my cooler condenser appears to be shot (no cold air from the a/c and the pulley wobbles). This seems to make the engine work harder, run louder and my oil pressure drops when idling. I cannot afford to fix it right now and my question is; besides the obvious personal discomfort ( I live in Austin), how long can I drive my truck before it starts damaging the engine/electrical(?)/other components linked through the serpentine belt?
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Wife found and purchased a 1989 Celica GT...everything is mechanically sound...except that when we took the car into service place to get a/c service done, they charged the system and said that it is fine...(was a few ounces low on freon), but that our condenser fan doesn't seem to kick on when the a/c button is activated on the dash We have the "Push Button" style Automatic a/c. Manual trans, 3sfe 2.0 liter. I have checked voltage at the condenser fan...it is present....jumpered the ground wire to a ground and the fan runs...I swapped the relay out with the regular engine fan relay, which seems to work fine....no good, so I don't think it is a relay issue.
The compressor seems to kick in and work, cycling on and off as usual. Get nice cold air as long as car is moving above 30 mph. I have the tools, no real fear of taking stuff apart, but even though I have a schematic of the a/c system...I find it confusing and daunting. My service place mentioned either the a/c controller or the a/c amplifier may be the culprit. He also mentioned that those parts are no longer available from Toyota.....said there was a way around it to get the condenser fan to fire when the button is pushed on....but wanted $300 for the "no more than 30 minutes to do the wiring". He seemed rather "sharkish" to me....like instead of charging for time, he put a "what's it worth to you to have a/c" hijack price on it.
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I have a problem with my Stratus, its the 2005 V6 MotoR 2.7L 24 valves Chrysler LH (USA imported model)
The problem started months ago when a piece that connect several hoses and it have the temperature sensor (coolant air bleeder?) broke, we replaced it for a new one and also changed the thermostat, however the car still overheated (the heat level didnt ascend from half so the fans didn't went on) and the cooling water from the deposit was bubbling, behind the spot where the deposit is, white smoke/steam (?) was coming out and it was making a weird noise also.I changed the water deposit pressure cap, but it keeps doing the same.This happens just 15 min after I turn on the car so the mechanic disconected a piece from the fans, so the fans are always on. Still, after 45 minutes it start again.
The mechanic did a test in the deposit they said that the pressure was very high and it was probably a problem with the head gaskets, it can be that?
Researching for my own, I found that it can also can be a problem with the water pump, and maybe it needs to be replaced
What should I do?Is there any test that I can do to know if the head gasket is the problem or if the water pump isn't working?I don't want to buy the head gasket and realize that the problem was the water pump, or the other way round
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I have a 1989 tioga 460ford and the trans appears to be slipping when i get around 50mph. The engine revs up but it won't go more than 50. The engine again revs up but there does not feel like the power of the engine is being transferred to the trans. the coach runs fine up until i try to go beyond 50. I have 34000 miles on the rig. Some one suggested that I check the catalytic converter. what else should i look for?
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2002 Chevy Tahoe Z71 ... When I first turn my car on in the morning (or after an extended period of time - i.e. the car has completely cooled down) it makes a clicking / ticking noise that appears to be coming from the engine area. It lasts approximately 10 - 12 seconds and then simply goes away. This happens consistently. I recently had it serviced end-to-end: belts, plugs, total tune-up etc.
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My 2009 Toyota Venza has had this issue off an on for about a year now, but it's becoming more frequent lately. When you start the car, the AC is often not working. It will be lit up, and on full power, but there is little, if any, air coming out of the vents. And then, if you get up to speed on the highway, or hit a bump, suddenly it's working. When it works, it works well, but when it doesn't, there's nothing you can do besides wait.
The mechanic looked at it today and couldn't diagnose it because it was working when I arrived and he wasn't able to duplicate the problem. They checked the blower motor and the connection and they were both fine. He said to come back when it's not working and try not to hit a bump on the way. I'm a little frustrated. What it could be?
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My AC is not working on any setting but defrost. Warm air blows out on the reg AC settings, but if I turn it to defrost, chilly air comes out.
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I took my 2003 Toyota Matrix with around 148K miles to a local shop for the 150K work. This is the first time I have not taken it to the Toyota dealership because I wanted to use a local shop that works on Toyotas. I live in Asheville, NC. I spent over $800 for this service, rotating and alignment, plugs changed etc and they checked a engine light and told me I needed a new catalytic converter. I took the car in on November 2nd. On December 23rd I was driving on the interstate and heard a pop and a coughing noise. I was stranded on the side of the highway in Knoxville, TN. I got a tow to the a Toyota dealership where I learned that "the spark plug shot out like a rocket" through the header. I ended up getting a used motor for $4400. I have since spoken with other mechanics, all who have said that this is a problem with Fords. All have said the plug must not have been installed properly. They said it could have been a faulty plug but they don?t know how.
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I have a 2006 Toyota Corolla with 106,000 miles on it. Sometimes when I turn on the air conditioner/heater fan, nothing happens. It doesn't blow any air at all, hot or cold out of the vents, and it makes no sound. Other times, when I turn it on, it works fine and it blows ice cold air out of the air conditioning vents like it's supposed to. I always try to remember to turn off the air conditioning when I leave my car before I turn off the engine, but it seems to make no difference as to whether the fan will work the next morning when I get in my car. What's wrong with the air conditioning/heater fan, and how much it will cost a mechanic to fix it?
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A couple of months ago my Yaris was hit just behind the driver side door by a Ford F150, luckily traveling at a low speed. Other than body damage, my car seemed to be fine. After driving the car around for 2 weeks with the damage then taking it in for its 10 day repair, I brought home my wonderful little car. I live in Florida and even though it's winter, we had a rather warm day, just a couple days after bringing my car back home. I turned on the AC and ...nothing came out. So I tried it on higher settings and ...still nothing came out until I got to the highest blower setting. Suddenly it sounded like someone had turned a blender on inside my car but some air was making its way out of my blowers.
I called the shop that did my repairs and they said "well, you probably just blew a fuse. It's not accident related so we can't take care of it without charging you." My understanding was that I would not be able to get my blower to work at all if a fuse was blown, and my air certainly worked following the accident and prior to getting repairs done. If a fuse was blown, I'm willing to bet a lot of money that the shop was responsible. ...the fact that they also broke my glove compartment, got paint all over my seat, and made my car smell like a paint store also make me weary of using them again, but my insurance company swears by them. First of all, what is wrong with my car? Second of all, how do I fix it?
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Can swap a 98 Toyota Camry auto tranny to a 96 Camry with the same size engine? Sometimes the axles are different (splines) so if the axles are changed also then the tranny will work. But the axles and tranny all have to be switched?Driving down the road at about 65 mph there was a clunk, a binding like brake stuck thing going on, and then the tranny would not move the car. It seems as though the chain, if there is a chain in the tranny, broke. Someone told me it is the gears (planetary) on the right hand side of the transmission that drives the axle. No one including me has gone under it to look. But I do have access to that 98 tranny and axles.
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I thought I'd be free of problems having bought a new Toyota Rav4 in Jan. In June, with less than 3K miles, my husband had a (BIG) fender bender (turns out his meds made him blank out, he was driving at 10-15 mph) (and he is going on 80). Repairs cost over 3K, but I was able to drive it to the dealer. Soon after I got it back a month later, I started hearing a brief grinding noise under the accelerator, at speeds of 20-30 mph. Mostly after I took my foot off the accelerator, once or twice after I took my foot off the brake. This noise sounds like brakes grinding, appears very sporadically and briefly. I took it to the dealer and of course they could find nothing wrong, said everything checks out. They said to bring it back when it's doing the noise. Which it does maybe once a week, for a second or two. sheesh.What to do? I actually want to start all over, I do not want to drive with my ear to the gas pedal. (My husband now only drives in town!)
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My 2005 Camry started to make a, for a better work, "grinding" noise that appears to come from the left front side. It seems to appear around 40mph. Other symptoms:- the noise is not present when the car is in park even when revving up the engine- the noise appears to be correlated to the car/wheel speed - if placing the shift in neutral, the noise does not change while the speed doesn't change- if starting in 2nd gear, the noise only appears around 40mph when the engine is about 4500rpm.
Here it is a little hard to distinguish as the engine masks it- if switching the the 3rd gear, the noise does not change- if switching to "D", the noise does not change- coasting at neutral at more than 40mph still gives out the noise- when going over higher spots in the road (when the load of the wheels is reduced) the noise intensity goes down
There is no (or very low) noise at low speeds. Also, no noise when taking sharp turns. Had both front wheel bearings changed and the break pads, and the noise did not go away. I will be taking the car to a transmission place soon.
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I accidentally drove my Toyota Matrix in third gear at highway speed for at least 50 miles. Did I do damage?
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Yesterday I took my 2006 Toyota Corolla for an oil change at this small shop. As I drove away I heard a different slight sound coming from the engine, but I thought it could not be possible, since I had just left the mechanic and I had no previous issues with my car. I stopped at a store for about 15 minutes, then I drove a couple more miles when, suddenly, all of the engine lights turned on, the car felt weak and died. I checked the oil and it was totally dry, not even a drop to wet the napkin I used. I called the mechanic, he came over and added oil and an oil filter.
He claimed that the filter burst, is that even possible? Since I hear a strange sound the moment I left his shop, I tend to believe that he failed to put it in. What do you think?The main problem now is that my car engine is making this kind of click clack sound. I called the owner of the shop, who is the brother of the mechanic that worked on my car and I told him that I am taking my car to be diagnosed at Toyota today. If there is damage to the engine, which it sounds like, how can I get these guys to pay for it?Is it safe to drive my car like this?I am very dismayed at the whole situation and really stressed. I need this car to last me another good 5 to 6 years. I am the original owner. How to handle this case and the possible mechanical issues at hand now and down the road.
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Had after market front struts installed by a non-dealer shop on 2006 Toyota Sienna. Dealer service dept diagnosed two months later that the struts were one inch too long and caused damage to the lower control arms. A director for training for the other shop (one of 80 + shops) completely discredits the dealer shop's theory about the relationship between the size of the struts and the damage to the control arms, while admitting the error with the struts. Both sounded credible as I have very limited mechanical background.
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I have a 2002 Toyota Corolla. On a hot day (the first in a while), I got a check engine light for P0125. I'm going to clear it and see if it comes back. I think it is a false alarm for insufficient engine coolant. If the code and check engine light come back, what should I do?
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My Car has been making a noise that comes and goes. It seems to be dependent on the speed of the engine and coming from under the hood. It can come for an hour and then disappear for a week, then come back etc.
Toyota Yaris 2008105K4 cylinder, 1.5L engineNo turbo. Attached is an MP3 of the noise, you may have to turn up the volume to hear as it isn't super loud.
Seems to happen more often in colder weather. It sometimes happens right from startup, but other times it doesn't start until after half an hour on the road.
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I have a Toyota Corolla 99 that I have owned for a bit over 2 years; it has 97500 miles. After around 2,000 miles after an oil change it starts burning oil (no smoke or smell). I tried to check it often to make sure I am not running on empty. The last time I had to fill it up once and top off a bit another time before the oil change. I recently also changed the serpentine belt.
I thought the serpentine belt was the noise I was hearing when idling. Now, the noise is still there. Does not get worse when accelerating so hoping it is not a engine knock. Was told by Autozone guy that might be the iddle throttle. Hard to describe noise. No clank, almost like something spinning with a noise every 2 seconds.
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My 01 tundra can bog down under load - going up a long hill or towing a trailer - with the speed and RPMs steadily dropping until it finally downshifts, and the RPMS shoot up to 4k or so, but I don't regain much speed. This is without cruise control. If I have the cruise control on the problem does not occur. The truck slows, but in a normal way expected under the circumstances. The CEL is not on. No codes are being recorded. The Tranny fluid is full and smells fine.
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I have an 89' Toyota Camry. Left lights on, dead battery. Tried to jump in the dark, might have crossed wires. Blew main fuse, replaced it and battery. Car cranks but does not turn over. I do not think it is getting spark, could not see it. What's wrong?
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