Toyota - Electrical-wiring - Corolla :: Dies For Few Seconds When Turn On High-beams After Driving For A While
Oct 10, 2011
I have a 2003 Toyota Corolla CE manual transmission with 431,000 (not a typo) miles on it. About 7 weeks ago I noticed that when I turn on my high-beams after driving for awhile, the car dies for a few seconds. All lights go out, radio stops, engine stops and then it starts up again as if nothing happened. It will just do it once in about a half-hour time frame. I can switch the high-beams on and off repeatedly afterwards and it doesn't do it again. I have to drive for about a half-hour before it will do it again. I usually hear a slight pop sound when it does it.
A month later I noticed that if I parked it after driving for awhile, like at a gas pump, and get back in it, it acts as if the battery is dead for a few seconds. If I step on the clutch or open and close the driver door, the car comes back on. It appears that the battery was disconnected. The CD pops out of the player and all the radio station settings are gone. One morning last week I got in, and it had happened during the night. The CD was out, station settings gone, and the clock was 6.5 hours off.
I have had the car to a Toyota repair center 3 times. They have checked fuses, battery, battery cables, grounds, alternator, tensioner, looked for rodent nests, squirrels and I don't know what-all, etc. They can't find what is wrong. I am scared to drive it, but I depend on it. I commute 200 miles/day. I won't leave anything important in the car because I am afraid it will catch fire. I am scared I am going to have a wreck, too, with no lights and no power steering suddenly.
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It ford related but I just bought a used car that has hid low beams and when you turn on high beams there is no light at all. The blue light on dash comes on and head lights go off. I just got this car 2 days ago and haven't really looked into it.
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2004. Hazards and brake lights work.
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Just this evening I turned off my car (2000 Toyota Corolla), went inside and then came back out an hour or so later to discover that my radio, clock, and cigarette lighter still had power. Without the key in the ignition, I'm still able to listen to the radio, for example. This was never the case before. I had the battery replaced five days ago, but I doubt that makes a difference.... How I can fix this so that my battery doesn't drain.
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I have a 2006 Toyota Corolla with 106,000 miles on it. Sometimes when I turn on the air conditioner/heater fan, nothing happens. It doesn't blow any air at all, hot or cold out of the vents, and it makes no sound. Other times, when I turn it on, it works fine and it blows ice cold air out of the air conditioning vents like it's supposed to. I always try to remember to turn off the air conditioning when I leave my car before I turn off the engine, but it seems to make no difference as to whether the fan will work the next morning when I get in my car. What's wrong with the air conditioning/heater fan, and how much it will cost a mechanic to fix it?
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I have a 1996 F250 460CI that was running great for years and all of a sudden it shut off for a few seconds when I was on the expressway. It was like turning the ignition key off and turning it back on. It did it several times and eventually just died and would not start. I put a new coil on and it worked fine for about 150 miles and now it started doing the same thing again. The check engine light was on for a few seconds but not all the time so I am not sure if diagnostic equipment will show any error messages. Mileage on my truck is 92k. Does this sound like a distributor pickup issue?
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The Trans will unlock while driveing for a few seconds then lock back up and drive fine, it seems to be worse over the past couple days. It is no different cold or hot. I also noticed the head lights dim and the voltage on my scanner drops to around 12 volts when the trans disengages. When it is not acting up it drives and shifts perfect.
I have checked a few grounds that were visible and cleaned battery connections. There has to be a wire harness or ground that I am missing some where that is bad?? The misfire code has been fixed, not related.
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I have a '99 Explorer XLT and when I turn the high beams on, the fog/driving lights shut off. Is this normal? Is there a way I can keep the fogs on while the highs are on?
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I have a 1997 Toyota Hilux (unleaded, not diesel) and I'm looking for input as she keeps breaking down but no one is able to figure out the problem. While in gear and driving, the gas stops engaging and the speed slowly drops. The car stutters while slowing down but then if I switch gears or rev the engine it will stop. After some time this continues to happen more frequently (at all speeds) until the car eventually stops and dies. Try to restart and the engine will turn over but not start. After sitting for a night or so, though, she starts up and runs just fine. Thus no mechanics have been able to solve the issue!
Could be a fuel problem as the exhaust pipe makes a banging sound when this happens, but it could also be electrical.
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2010 F-250 14,000 miles, gas engine with Knapheide utility bed. Tilt wheel has been kept in the up position from day 1.
The problem:
No rear brake lights.
No high mount brake light.
No rear turn signals.
No rear hazard flashing lights.
All trailer lights work.
All other truck lights work.
Things checked: Fuses all OK. Visual inspection of multi-function switch. Looks clean. Brake switch at brake pedal has power on one wire. Jumpered the other wire-no brake lights.
I need to haul my trailer and am nervous when I see a Savannah, GA metro police car.
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My 1999 Ford Ranger XLT, 6 cylinder, auto trans, with 134K miles has an electric problem. When I turn the key to the 'on' position, all dash lights show normal, headlights work, radio plays, etc. But when I turn the key to the 'start' position, all electric power is lost. The power remains lost until I disconnect and reconnect the battery ground wire. After reconnecting, I again have power until the key is turned to the 'start' position. I was able to jump start the truck, so I assumed I needed a new battery. I bought one a week ago, and was back to normal until today. The truck started, I drove 4 miles to the grocery store, and then I found myself back to square 1 (i.e., the no-start situation).
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For my 2013 with HID lights, I'm adding a light bar, and trying to find a good wire to tap into so I can wire in a relay to turn the light bar on with my high beams. As it's going to a relay, I originally thought to use a fuse tap, but the high beam fuse is always powered. Any other wire I can use in the cab?
I'm also looking for an in cab wire for the reverse lights I'm adding. I've been trying to make sense of the wiring diagrams online, but I am not having any success.
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Just wiring up some light on the front and want to activate the relay off my high beams.. Where the best place to hook into... I'm running it off number 1 upfitter switch. But also want it connected to the high beam switch as well.
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I have a 2008 Honda Accord that about 4 months ago the drl light on the dashboard would come on for a few seconds and then go off. This happened 2 or 3 times a week. During this time the driver side drl light would also quit working. A couple of weeks later it progressed to the drl dashboard light would come on, then the tpms dashboard light would also come on. After an intermittent period of time (seconds to minutes) the icon showing low tire pressure would flash for a second and the drl light and tpms light would go off. This happened maybe 3 times in a day, then not happen again for a week or so. Air pressure in all tires was correct. About week ago it progressed to the drl dashboard light and the tpms dashboard light stay on all the time and neither the drl light (drl mode or high beam or will work on the driver side. In the past few days the low beam on the driver side has also quit working.
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My Honda has a strange problem that is vexing my mechanic. While I am driving, the engine spits and sputters and sometimes dies. I try to restart and it starts right up but runs rough. Sometimes it takes a while to start back up. If I wait a few minutes, it will start again and drive fine for a while. Then it will do it again. After it is warm or when it is cold at the start, it won't do it.My mechanic cannot get it to do it long enough to diagnose. The computer is not throwing any codes. I believe it is electrical because when it does this, the speedometer goes crazy bouncing up and down. Electrical problem also may explain why the computer is not throwing any codes. I need to narrow it down because my mechanic is reluctant to start trying things as I don't have a lot of money to throw at this.
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The car's engine just stopped while driving on highway, then would not turn over, nothing.Took for repair, said battery had bad cell or something, still under warranty, replaced.Fixed a few other things that were overdue, spark plugs, wires.
Okay. Next day, took the car on a few city driving short trips. While going across town on hot 85 degree day w/ ac on, it died again. Don't remember any lights coming on, didn't last time either. I think the AC died first then car died. Wouldn't make a peep. Right in middle of heavy traffic. When police came couldn't even steer. There might have been a slight weird noise which I thought was the ac making trouble right before it stopped, can't describe it really.
Had it hauled to shop again. It runs fine for them so far. They are still working on it.What in heck could it be? All belts were replaced a few years ago, car has always run well, never any major repairs just maintenance. It has about 133,000 miles on it. It has a clutch.
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The front running lights come on immediately, but the tail and side running lights take their time coming on (usually 10 to 20 seconds later. 95 Ford E-350. Is their a relay that could cause this issue?
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I have a BMP 20th and I notice that I cannot turn on my high beams but I can flash them. What the problem could be? I was planning on installing my OEM HIDs tonight but now I am wanting to get this fixed before I put them in.
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I used to think when I flash it'll turn on the high beam only but that's wrong.
Today I changed the high bulbs 9005 to a brighter pair trying to get a better DRLs, but when I tested the high beam by flashing I realized it turns both low & high beams on at the same time.
I have HID for low beam so that's not a good thing for me to flash. And I think I did it only one time in the past but now I won't do it again. Is it normal?
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Anytime I turn the headlights on, the high beams go on too; I cannot switch off the high beams unless I turn off the headlights entirely (I have been driving with the low beams on during the day for the 5 years I have had the car)
I can find no reason for this; I'm inspecting the fuses (with little expectation). The only thing I can think of is the control switch or wiring. I have standard headlamps, not hid.
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