Toyota - Echo :: Clutch Suddenly Disengaged When Driving On Highway
Oct 19, 2012
2 years ago I had the transmission and clutch replaced on my 2002 Echo. it has driven fine since then but three days ago we were on the highway and the clutch suddenly disengaged..I don't know if that's the right terminology but it was as if I had pushed the clutch in (I hadn't) and the engine was just revving but not accelerating...I tried all the gears with the same result...eventually my car slowed to a stop.
A day later I had it towed to the mechanic...when he drove it it was fine, and did not exhibit the problem at all. He checked out the clutch and said it looked fine, and said my description of the problem made it sound as if the clutch had overheated....but he said that usually happens with city driving, not on the highway. So he is stumped..the car seems to be fine now, though I haven't had it out on the highway yet.
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The clutch on my 2003 Toyota Tacoma has been acting funny for a while. I have to pull the pedal back up with the top of my foot about half the time, otherwise it acts like the clutch isn't all the way disengaged when I push the pedal to the floor. The master and slave cylinders have both been replaced as well as the clutch pedal mechanism itself (thought it might be the spring). I adjusted the push rod a little bit and it seems to have worked slightly but it's definitely still a problem.
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My wife's 2002 Toyota Echo with 205,000 original owner miles on it has a problem where the AC fan does not blow out adequate air at highway speeds. When you put the selector switch to get the maximum airflow and have the fan on high speed, you can HEAR it blowing out but the air coming out of the vents is minimal. It's hot in FL but the car gets excellent mileage so we take it in lieu of our 2008 Tundra.
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2003 Toyota Matrix w/126,000 miles on it. Manual transmission just died suddenly while on the highway. I hear that this is common. This is not my first manual tranny, and car has been treated well. Web check & call to Toyota toll-free number reveal no recall. Toyota denies any knowledge of such a problem. They foisted me off, "Contact a local dealer for assistance." I await an estimate from a transmission shop. No longer trust Toyota. Will a rebuild solve this? Or should I seek new tranny? Are replacements any better? Or do they still use same lousy bearings/parts that made the original fail? Besides a new clutch, is there anything else one should repair/replace while car is taken apart? About how much should this cost, at most? Car is otherwise OK, do I repair & hope for another 75k miles, or do I junk the car? A friend suggests a 6-speed tranny.
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My beloved 2000 Toyota Echo has started to stall intermittently. It has worked with no problems for the past 100k miles that I've owned it (purchased used with 40k already.) What happens is that while driving I hear a little click, everything shuts down for a second or so, the red idiot light lights up for a few seconds then clears.
It's never lasted more than a few seconds and everything goes right back to normal. And it's only happened maybe a dozen times in the last three months. But it makes me nervous since I have to travel over major bridges and through tunnels regularly where I live.
The stalls usually seemed to occur after the engine has heated up, but I just had an exception this morning. Since I noticed the fan never goes on after long trips anymore, I just had the thermostat replaced but that didn't fix.
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Car starts normally sometimes. Other times it will not start at all (it sounds like the battery is dead) or it will struggle to start and once it does start the electronics in the car seem to not be getting any power.
While driving the car “clunks” into gear and the car lurches while shifting.
Background: I was driving down the freeway and then suddenly, it seemed as I was in forced into neutral. Immediately got off the freeway and examined the situation. The situation was I no longer had reverse, drive or overdrive. I had gears 1 and 2 though.
Brought the car to the local mechanic and had a used transmission installed. After installing the transmission, the car now lurches when it goes into gear, especially when it goes into drive (around 45 mph). The plan was to bring it back to the mechanic as soon as I would have time, however before that happened, my car started to struggle to start. Finally the battery died completely and I had to jump start it. After that it got a little more strange… sometimes I would have to jump start it, sometimes it would start fine, and sometimes it would start, but the car would not have enough electric power to power all the electronics in the car fully. The headlights would be dim, the interior lights would be dim, etc… Oddly enough, I could let the car sit for 30 minutes and it would start normally again.
Before bringing it back to the mechanic I would like to be more informed as to what could possibly be going on. Do I just need a new battery and all will be fine with starting? And the fact the trouble with starting is only coincidental with bringing it to the mechanic? (Note, the battery did die while it was at the mechanic). And what should I make of the transmission problem, do they need to install a different one?
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Today my transmission suddenly disengaged while slowing down from 3rd to 2nd as if i switched to neutral.Car revved freely when i pressed accelerator. Then suddenly after a second it engaged again and shifted normally. Never had this issue before i racked up 1,29,000 KM on my ride.
I can't see it as "slipping" as there was no change in speed and it revved freely. Also I 'm due for fluid change. What can be the issue?
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I am using a Hyundai Santa Fe (Petrol, 2011 Model) here in Saudi Arabia. On July 17 (11:30 pm), I was driving in a highway at about 80-90 kms/hr when suddenly my vehicle lost power (steering wheel, brake, etc).
Baed on the diagnosis of our company mechanic, it was an alternator problem. He said the alternator bearing got stuck up.
Prior to this incident, on July 7, the same vehicle got stalled twice while it's parked. In the first case, I was able to use it after jumpstarting. In the second case in the same day (4 hours after the first case), jump starting didn't work so they have to replace it with a temporary used battery. I noticed that I had a hard start (the engine responds only after 3-4 key ignition). After replacing the battery with new one, I was able to drive normally from July 9 to Jul 17, and then the incident happened as I described in the first paragraph.
Question: Is there a way to detect the alternator bearing problem before it actually breaks down? If there is, what procedure or predictive test is normally followed to identify potential problems in an alternator?
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I have an automatic 2002 Echo. Like 2 or 3 days ago I started hearing a noise when I drive in reverse. Is a mix of friction and vibration and it gets louder the faster I drive, only in reverse. I read that this could be the symptom of a bad engine mount but I haven't been able to pinpoint it.
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So I don't know how long my car has been doing this I have only had it for about 2 weeks and was wondering if its normal.. I can hear like a chattering sound when my foot is off the clutch when I am idling but if I depress it and engage it there is no more noise( I'm sure when I'm driving its doing it too but with the other stuff going on I can't here it when I'm driving) . Is it normal or somewhat normal or should I be worried and go and have it checked?
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Was driving on the highway and all of a sudden my mph gauge just drops and my car slows down. This is the first time it happened and it didn't do it again after I got off the highway. Other things it has been doing: eating gas, shifting hard, and doesn't want to get up to speed. Not sure if they are related to this new problem or not.
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On my 13 Elantra since the day I got it almost 2 year's now has always made this click noise when I disengaged the clutch and go, (not the clutch solenoid noise similar) I'll hear the clutch solenoid then almost like my left front brake was slightly sticking it makes a click like the caliper's popping loose!? I've mentioned it the stealership & nothing they tried to tell me the dust shield was touching however the noise came back within minutes I noticed it! It's just one of those annoying sound's that you need to figure out or go crazy, stick model, could it be the clutch fork or bearing releasing just can't figure it out.
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I have right around 2k miles on my '13 base model 6MT. I've noticed recently that after faster highway driving (75-80mph sustained for 10-25 min, up to 95 passing occasionally), I can smell something when I get out that reminds me an awful lot of the clutch burning up in my old 350 as I hauled a way-too-heavy trailer. Drivetrain is still very responsive, no noticeable slippage. Never shifted out of 6th when passing at speeds above. Just paranoid? Something I should look into?
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2000 GTI
260,000 miles (60% highway)
2.0L 4cylinder AEG
All stock.
I have a new issue developing on the clutch of my car. When I fully press the clutch pedal to change gear, I hear cacophony of grinding, hissing and whirring noise, probably coming from gearbox. When I take my foot off of the clutch pedal completely, the noise is gone. half clutch has reduced amount of these noises. I had this symptom briefly one night two weeks ago and when I topped up oil, this was gone. Tonight, it is back.
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My truck was working fine and I drove it to school one day and I was driving and I noticed the RPM was high and the truck wasn't moving correctly luckily I made it home and parked it now it won't move at all I can shift into gears and I put it in first and reverse and let off the clutch and it doesn't move like the clutch is still disengaged. The Slave Cylinder is pressing against the pressure plate to disengage the clutch and then releasing. I have a single cab 1999 Ford F150 4.2 V6.
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Have a noise coming from the serpentine area. Sometimes it's a bit of a chirping, other times it's almost like a solid grind.
I pulled the belt off and the idler pulley had a bit of play so I replaced that. The tensioner pulley felt fine. I'm suspecting the fan clutch, as the noise only appears after the clutch has disengaged the fan (although it could be this is just masking the other noise because I've got a heavy duty / loud fan clutch setup).
How can I be sure that the fan clutch is the culprit before replacing it?
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I have a 2000 Toyota Camry CE (2.2L/V4) w/ 130,000 miles on it. Just recently I have been experiencing a stalling issue after driving on the highway for 19 miles (or 20 minutes) at a speed greater than 65 mph. As soon as I exit and take my foot off the gas the car will stall as if I just turned the key in the off position. After I pull over, turn the key in the off position and wait a minute or two, the car start right up as if nothing happening. The idle seems to be ?normal?. The engine light does not come on when this happens.
If I feel the car may stall when still on the highway after slowing down, I can shift the car into neutral and hold the idle speed high enough to continue driving. However the car will eventually stall. But again and I restart it and be on my merry way without incident. I have try switching to high octane gas, but that did not work. If I disconnect the battery for a few hours the computer reboots itself and it will take a few more trips at high speeds for this issue to occur again. I have put in a fuel injector cleaner and cleaned the butterfly value (air intake). I own an Auto Xray code scanner; however it is not showing any error codes. What this issue may be?
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Yesterday, I was driving on the highway at a 65-70 miles per hour (basically pushing it for my '96 RAV4). Suddenly, the car turned off. The engine cut out and the battery and oil signal came on. It did not lurch as if I had popped the clutch, nevertheless, I went to restart it as I was going down the hill and it made it home for the next 40 miles.
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I have a 2009 Toyota Sienna with approx. 130k miles. Recently I am noticing when driving on the highway that I get a humming/ringing sounds. It gets louder and softer as I drive. It is not always there but when it does make that sound, it is when I am over 65 mph. If I tap the brake it immediately stops but then if I hit the gas it starts again. Also sometimes when I tap the brakes (not on the highway) I do get a screeching sound. I've taken it to the mechanic and he checked my brakes and says they are fine. I just got two front tires thinking it was that but it is still there. Is there anything else that I should consider? Should I go get a second opinion on the brakes since the sound stops as soon as I tap the breaks?
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The car's engine just stopped while driving on highway, then would not turn over, nothing.Took for repair, said battery had bad cell or something, still under warranty, replaced.Fixed a few other things that were overdue, spark plugs, wires.
Okay. Next day, took the car on a few city driving short trips. While going across town on hot 85 degree day w/ ac on, it died again. Don't remember any lights coming on, didn't last time either. I think the AC died first then car died. Wouldn't make a peep. Right in middle of heavy traffic. When police came couldn't even steer. There might have been a slight weird noise which I thought was the ac making trouble right before it stopped, can't describe it really.
Had it hauled to shop again. It runs fine for them so far. They are still working on it.What in heck could it be? All belts were replaced a few years ago, car has always run well, never any major repairs just maintenance. It has about 133,000 miles on it. It has a clutch.
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Echo 2003 2 door
Running lights: OK
Headlight mode, the running light stay illuminated but the head lights don't come on and the high beam light illuminates.
It feels like a relay but I don't know where to start. Had to drive home in the dark with the moon light my way home. I'd prefer to not do that again.
Found two 10A fuses under the hood. Both blown
The connectors to the lights are corroded and strangely, covered in oil. I could not find an oil leak (Problem with previous owner?)
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