In the last six months I've occasionally seen both the tach and the speedometer slowly peg when I start in the morning. My mechanic says to not worry about it but I do. The car is a 2005 Toyota ECHO with manual transmission.
View 11 RepliesNeed to diagnostic the noise coming from my Echo 2005? 70K miles. I took to the dealer twice and spend a total of 500$ but the noise still there. The dealer changed the drive belt , new brake pad and clean the rear drum and adjustment. The noise occurred at start up and sometime at low speed below 10mph. The noise increase then stops after 6 second. [URL] .....
View 10 RepliesI have a 2011 Corolla LE with the automatic transmission. When traveling at a constant highway speed (i.e. 60 mph), the tachometer will start jumping around. It will jump up than down by anywhere from 200 rpm to 1000 rpm. It only lasts a few seconds then returns to normal. The dealer is saying that is just the electronic controlled transmission selecting the correct gear. I have never heard of this in any other car.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2005 Camry with 110,000 miles on it. Bought Toyota because I thought they were supposed to last and be such good cars...speedometer, tachometer intermittently going out along with ABS light coming on...took it to dealer, they said it was the combo meter and oh by the way the water pump needs to be replaced. Then get a call that it isn't the combo meter but the ECU that needs to be replaced and that the part is $1982.00. I have serviced the car religiously at the dealer and am very disappointed to have such problems in a car that is only 5 years old and has been taken care of...
View 1 RepliesWe have an intermittent (now more regular) issue on our 2005 SF of the instrument cluster (tachometer, speedometer, gas gauge, temp gauge) sitting at zero - no motion whatsoever. In the summer months, the gauges came on after a while of AC being on, which I thought odd. But it just happened here in October (and the temp is just around 5C/41F) so a temp issue is unlikely. No OBD codes that we know of, all the fuses are fine, and while we did have a PCSV issue earlier this year, it did not seem to affect this particular issue with the gauges.
Threads such as the one below seem to say that it is the speedometer that is wacky... 01 Santa Fe Speedometer Not Working! , and the general solution to the problem/issue is to replace the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) and associated gear mechanism. And on a different thread, Input Output Speed Sensors , it was suggested that the problem could be addressed by changing the input and output sensors.
My 1999 Plymouth grand voyager SE 3.3 liter engine has developed a tach and speed. Odometer problem. At various times the tach will surge@ 200 rpm and at the same time the speedometer will top out and then they will return to where they should be. I can make this happen also bye driving in reverse, stopping and putting it in overdrive and the tach and speedometer will surge without the car ever moving...
View 2 RepliesMy wife has been driving our 98 Dodge Grand Caravan the last couple of days and while she is driving the Tachometer and Speedometer will drop to 0. This does not affect the performance of the engine or anything else. Runs and drives "perfect" (or at least for its age and mileage). The dash seems to "reset" when she parks and turns off the ignition then restarts it.
View 2 RepliesMy speedometer shows 15 mph at idle stop in Drive gear. Sometimes it fluctuates simultaneously with the engine. Then tachometer also fluctuates. I took it to the dealer, and they wanted to replace an instrument cluster (under the dashboard), but I declined. If it is a cluster, why does it fluctuate with the engine and tachometer? I took it to the shop, but it did not do it then.
View 4 RepliesI was driving home tonight and stopped to get dog food. Resuming my drive home I had gone about 3 miles and my ABS light came on, the tachometer began fluctuation and the speed odometer went to zero. And the engine was losing power. Pulled over turned the lights off and turned the car off. Waited about 30 seconds and turned the car back on and everything was fine and car ran absolutely normal with no warning lights. I was about 26 degrees out.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2005 Toyota Corolla. It's in great shape, except that everytime I slowly press the brakes, I hear what I would describe as a gurgling/ bubbling sound coming from under the hood. It doesn't happen when I quickly step on the brakes or come to a more sudden stop, only when I'm gently easing into a stop. I took it to the dealership and they just said that I might need new brake shoes, but couldn't explain the gurgling sound (which I'm assuming is caused by some type of fluid).
View 1 Replies2005 Scion xA 127,000 miles
Problem started with speedometer not working occasionally. Now it works about 75% of the time. Often if I park for several minutes and restart the car the speedometer will work again. Sometimes after I start the car at first it won't work. Then I hear a click and a whir and it works.
Recently the gas gauge has been failing occasionally. I start the car and the needle doesn't move. I restart the car immediately and it works.
Only once the tachometer didn't work at first. Then the needle jumped up suddenly. I found at least 14 possible causes online:
1. Relay
2. ECU
3. Loose wire or connector in cluster
4. Speed sensor
5. Fuse
6. Gauge
7. Electrical short––recalibrate speedometer
8. Faulty speedometer head
9. Bad transducer
10. Dirty connection
11. Body control module (BCM) hung up
12. Bad ground
13. Bad stepper motor
14. Bad alternator diodes
QUESTION 1: Given that the problem has gotten worse over time, it's intermittent, and now two gauges are involved, what's the most likely cause?
QUESTION 2: A garage told me it's illegal to buy a used instrument panel and have the odometer reset. Is that true?
QUESTION 3: If not illegal, what's the cheapest way to get a reliable IP and get it reset? I can't afford a new cluster at a dealer.
So we bought a new to us 04 Escape for the kid, he loves it! My question is, what's going on when I accelerate somewhat aggressively, the tach and speedo peg high and battery light comes on. It does not affect performance and gauges return to normal within a couple seconds.
View 11 RepliesMy 2000 4x4 4runner just after it starts up tends to have a funky idle. It rarely goes above 2000 rpm but it ranges from 300-1500 when idling after start. Also when I drive home from work it tries to idle as low as it can then if I don't rev the engine it usually dies in the middle of traffic. Once it's going it's fine though. I've already cleaned the IAC and the Mass airflow sensor. Maybe one needs to be replaced or just a tune up?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2002 F-350 with a 7.3 powerstroke. Last week, I replaced both my batteries. When I tried to start the truck, the electronics when a bit crazy. Speedometer and Tachometer swinging back and forth. Then when it did start it ran rough and after a minute it shut off. All electrical functions are completely dead. I finally unhooked the batteries and went in the house to cool off. When I came back, rehooked up the batteries, it started right up and everything acted normal. Everything was normal until last night, it started fine and was idling for about 5 minutes and it shut off. Absolutely, NO electrical power, even tried to jump start and still no electrical activity. Unhooked the batteries waited about 15 minutes, hooked them back up. It started just fine.
View 5 Replies I've always find solution to solve my little issues with my Toyota Echo 2004 Hatchback. Since last summer, my car seems to have a lot of problems to idle well with the fine rpm. Here are all the events :
-it all started last summer, when the motor would start to idle really high for a couple of minutes, before getting back to normal. When this happened, a p011 check engine would light up. I switched to synthetic oil, and it greatly reduce the number of time this happen, but it didn't solve it entirely. It usually happens when the motor is warm, but still not hot.
-Only once, during a long ride, I got a check engine. When I left the highway, my motor wouldn't stop idling high. stop/start the motor wouldn't change anything. I checked the check engine codes, if I remember well : p011, p016 and misfire. With a friend, we checked the crankshaft sensor, and it was really dirty, so we washed it, and it solved the problem! A few days after, I also change my spark plug because they were starting to be old.
-A few weeks ago, I started my car and it was idling high as usual to heat up faster (it is winter now). But then, the rpm suddenly drop really quickly. The rpm was really low for may be 2 seconds, and it nearly chokes, but just before it went up back to normal. Then low/high/low/high until the motor was hot. No check engine. I disconnected the battery for a few minutes, and when I reconnected it, the problem was solve. I also checked the air filter, but it wasn't dirty.
-Then, sometimes when I start my car, idling is fine but suddenly at a red light the motor start to run really low with a lot of vibrations and a bad smell. Stop and restart the motor solve the problem! But only until the next red light, or until the motor is warm enough. Still no check engine.
Does this look like a bulb may be burnt out?
It is dark between 5 o'clock on the speedo and 8 o'clock on the tach.
Where are the dash lights and what type are they?
Recently my speedometer has been acting wacko...and continues to do so. Two to five minutes into a trip it will slowly increase or decrease in mph's and randomly stop (or continue) as it pleases regardless of how fast or slow I am traveling. Several mechanics checked it and test drove it and no one could figure it out. The devices they used to check the speedometer indicated it was functioning properly.
View 4 RepliesI drive a 2007 Toyota Matrix, automatic, 111K. My check engine light is on, but I haven't had it check because it frequently comes on and off for the evap sensor in the gas cap.
a few months ago all of a sudden the tachometer would move around very erratically. it started the first weekend that it was really cold here, and has since come and gone. At the times when it's not working, when i start the car the tachometer will usually hang at zero for a while and then begin to flail around usually bouncing between zero and about 4k. Occasionally it will make it all the way to the highest range of the gauge, 8k, and jump around there for a while. Then without any trend that I've noticed all of a sudden it will function correctly. There are also times when it works fine the entire time from the time I start the engine.
Another disturbing piece is that about a month ago my temperature gauge joined in and will now remain at zero the entire time the tachometer is flailing about and then when simultaneously they will begin working normally.
2005 Taurus. 82K miles, 3L, 6cyl, OHV engine, auto transmission. Occasionally the tachometer goes crazy. When this happens, it seems like the car loses some power. The reading on the tach is definitely incorrect when this happens (needle all over the place). Replacing something called the "speed sensor" ??? Couldn't find anything else that this problem may point to ??
View 1 RepliesThe problem began a year ago when the car would randomly lose power while hubby was driving it, and then regain power almost immediately and continue to move forward. Weird. Fast forward a year and the problem is happening more frequently. Couple that with the car taking a lonnnnng time to start up in the morning. One day, it ceases to start altogether. Had a mechanic friend of ours look at it and tell us we need a new fuel pump. Okay, no problem. We paid him for the pump and he installed it. Before I could dance a victory dance, though, as hubby turned the key....the car still won't start. Mechanic buddy takes another look at the car and said the ECM is cracked and needs replacement. Looked it up online and ECM is covered under safety recall. Had car towed to the dealership, waited 2 weeks on ECM replacement, dealer called us up to let us know that....the car still won't start, and looks like we need a new fuel pump.
Mechanic friend took another look at it and said it looks like a bad connection between the pump and made an adjustment to it. The car works! Sort of. Car starts acting funny again. We're driving along and the car is losing/gaining/losing/gaining power, tachometer goes up and down, we hear a funny clicking coming from the dash area every time the car loses power. Last night, the car just refused to start. This morning, it started. After several attempts. Made that fun "verr-verr-verr-verr-verr-verr" sound without the "-rooom" at the end. Since my knowledge of fuel pumps and their casings, ECMs, and the like are limited to this situation, I'd love to know what's REALLY going on with the car. I have a suspicion that it goes beyond the fuel pump situation, but mechanic friend thinks it is the casing or something like that.
My mechanic put a used 2005 PMC in my 2004 powerstroke. Now tachometer does not work, trans and coolant temp guages don't work and drives as if it is stuck in 3rd. gear. Does it need flashed @ a ford dealer to sync the two together?
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