My Echo screeches when the AC is on. If I hit the gas, the sound will go away. Also, sometimes when I'm slowing down the screech starts with the AC on. Occasionally, the sound goes away after I've driven about 20 - 30 miles; it appears that the car at idle then is idleing a little higher. And, lastly, on very rare occasions, the screech will start when the AC is off and I turn a corner.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2003 Toyota Echo. About 6 months ago it starting making a knocking noise when I applied the brakes. I thought it was my differential (it isn't) because it is a used transmission. That's not it. My mechanics were stumped, of course it never seems to make the noise when they have my car. They also checked the rotors, and I maintain my brakes.They replaced a wheel bearing on the left front wheel, the noise stopped for two weeks then started up again. Only when I use the brakes do I hear it, and I hear it more often than not.
There also seems to be a bit of a creaking noise with it. It does it more in stop and go traffic, and the car usually has to be a little warm before it gets noisy. They ended up replacing a rear drum thinking the noise transferred to the front, didn't work. What could this be? it's pretty loud and disconcerting when I'm driving. It only happens when I use the brake (more so slower speeds) so what is left besides the wheel and the brakes? My mechanic said the noise stopped when they replaced the wheel bearing because they took the wheels off, and that somehow fixed it temporarily.
How to change a 2003 toyota echo blower motor.... Looking for a step by step directions ....
View 2 RepliesI am buying a Toyota Echo that the engine shakes on Idle and the shaking increase a bit when the AC is On ....
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 Toyota Echo with 250,000 miles. It has been a great car as I commute 90 miles to work. I have had no major problems with the car. Unfortunatly it recently died on the way to work. It was running great and then all the sudden it sputtered and killed. When I first tried to start the car it would just turnover but after waiting 10 minutes it started back up (this was a cold morning). When it started it was running great again. I drove it another 15 minutes and it all the sudden died again. This happened 3 times.
I have hooked up to a scan tool and a camshaft position sensor code displayed. I replaced that but had no change. Another code came up as mass air flow sensor. I purchased a used one of those and still no change.
I have started the car up numerous times and always have the same results. It starts right up, idles good, speeds up good and runs good at full throttle. The problem becomes when it warms up the car kills. If I run it at idle to a slow acceleration it takes longer to kill than if I run the car at full throttle. Once it kills it will not start up until the car cools down, but once it cools down it will start right back up.
I currently have summer washer fluid in my 2003 Toyota Echo's windshield washer fluid tank. I need to replace this with winter washer fluid within the next few days before the temperature goes below freezing.
When I pop open the hood, I see that the bottle is located on the left hand side of the engine bay. The bottle has a black cap with a picture of a fountain (wiper spray).
I have no experience working on the mechanics of a car. However, I would like to know the easiest way of replacing my summer wiper fluid with winter wiper fluid. The tank is currently full with the summer washer fluid.
a) How do I go about emptying the bottle completely without removing it?
b) If I need to remove the bottle and then empty it completely, how do I do this and what tools do I need?
Whenever I start up my 2001 Highlander it makes an awful screeching noise that sometimes lasts up to a minute or two long! It doesn't just happen when I start it too. Sometimes I'll be just driving along and it will start screeching like a bat out of hell and quite a minute later. Also, sometimes when I accelerate quickly it will briefly ( a little peep) screech. I thought it was my fan belts so I got both of them replaced about a month ago and it temporarily fixed the problem. About a week or so after they were replaced, I put the key in the ignition and Squeak...
View 7 Replies2001Toyota Echo 1.5 Liter Automatic 213K miles
My car will start fine but when I start driving it will periodically sputter, particularly when I push on the pedal. If this was my old car I would immediately change the plugs, wires, cap and rotor. But it has electronic ignition so has no wires, cap and rotor. I just changed the plugs a year ago, less than 10k miles ago, so I doubt if it is that.
So, moving to the fuel system I thought I would change the filter, but the filter is integrated into the pump which is in the tank, and it like 125$. And it seems like to me that it is unlikely for that electronic pump and filter to need to be replaced hardly ever. I could be wrong. So, what else can I test? There are no codes, so I doubt if it would be mass airflow sensor or something in the air intake. Could it be a leak in the air intake?
My daughter has a 2000 (or 2001) Toyota Echo. It has 160,000 miles. The transmission is dead. On the other hand, the engine is in great shape. The mechanic in Georgia has given her a price of $2800. I'm trying to contact them to find out exactly what is going on. Her question: assuming is can be repaired, should she sink the money into it? She asked my opinion, but I'm not a car person by any means.
View 3 RepliesI have a Toyota 2001 Echo and after about 5 min of driving, it starts to stutter when I step on the gas and shake back/forth. It gets worse going up hills. Once it starts, it continues at any speed and doesn't have the normal power but doesn't die. Stepping on the gas harder doesn't increase the RPMs like it should. Thinking it might be the spark plugs, I removed the cap on one plug and found the well with about 2 cm of clear, yellow oil. Is this bad? if so, how bad?
View 6 RepliesI own a 2001 Toyota Echo. When I turned on the air conditioner, the fan would run, but there was no cooling. I took it to the Toyota dealer for repair, and the problem was a bad compressor. The compressor was repaired and the a/c worked. Twelve days later, the a/c would not cool. I took it back to the dealer, and the problem was "Found clutch melted to AC compressor." Fortunately, the repair was still under warranty, so there was no extra charge. I had never heard of the "magnetic clutch assembly" melting itself to the AC compressor.
View 5 RepliesWe have a 2005 Toyota Echo, manual 5 speed, with 160K miles. Everything works fine except for when you are accelerating (can happen in any gear) and mainly uphill. I assume the primary condition is when the car is being pushed or under more load than just cruising, anyway, it will will make a low grumbling noise and simultaneously shudders as if it is going to stall. This happens in a jerky fashion and doesn't last very long but consistently under aforementioned conditions. We have 3 Echo's by the way, all manual shift (Echo friendly)...
View 4 RepliesI bought a remfg denso starter for my 2000 toyota tacoma prerunner 3.4L V6. I spent hours without success trying to get the old starter out. Brought it to a shop and had the new one installed. When I do a cold start, there is a screech at the end when the engine catches that sounds exactly like starting a car that is already running. This happens on cold starts only. Warm starts work fine. Due to the fact that I bought this part separate, having to pay to have a new one installed again is annoying to say the least. I spent another 4 hours today trying to get it out without success. See YouTube link for video of the noise. It's actually the quietest one yet.
View 13 RepliesMy 97 Nissan pick up, 2.4L I4, 5 speed 182k miles has developed a screeching sound for about 15 to 30 seconds after starting. It sounds like a loose or slipping belt. I have replaced all three belts and the tension is right.
I pulled all the belts again and put them back on one at a time and determined that the belt for the water pump and alternator is the source. I checked all pulleys and components and cannot find anything with abnormal drag or roughness or noise.
I though maybe that I might have put too much tension on the alternator belt and maybe put to much side load on the alternator bearing so I loosened it slightly and that just made the screeching last longer. I also noticed that the duration of the screeching is extended when there is a load on the alternator, such as the blower motor or the headlights.
Once the screeching stops, it does not come back even with sudden changes in rpm or changes in load, i.e. blower motor or headlights, however, every time the compressor kicks on, there is a chirp. Before I replaced all the belts, the compressor belt was slipping on occasion and every time the compressor kicked on, it would screech for a few seconds, but its not AC weather right now.
I pulled off the alternator today and took it up to be tested to see if it would screech on the test set, not a peep and passed all tests. BTW, I am not having any issues with charging or starting, the battery is good. I did notice a wire bundle that runs under the air cleaner has abraded and one wire is bare, I'll address that tomorrow. I don't see any evidence of shorts in the bundle, all the abrasion is on one side and only one wire exposed, and it only touched plastic as far as I can tell.
Also, I cannot visually detect the slipping, the belt and the alternator appear to be moving smoothly, same with water pump, but its hard to tell because everything is spinning so fast. also, it is not bad if you just do a restart after driving, is will only screech for a second or two, but if it cools down, than it back to the 15 to 30 seconds of screeching, and its LOUD.
Just bought little Echo and it's blowing hot air when the ac is on if I turn the ac off with the selector in the blue it's still hot. I used the gauge off a old ac recharger can and its showing the right amount of Freon and the compressor clutch is spinning. I am really wanting to fix it cheap , since I got it for 1200.
View 2 RepliesMy 2000 Toyota Echo has a strange problem. At 60 mph (+/- 5 mph) the temperature light starts flashing. If i slow down it stops. Coolant level is fine. Car doesn't seem to be overheating. Radiator fan is working. With radiator cap removed coolant is not moving when the car is cold, but heats up and circulates as the car gets to temperature .I have heat in the cabin.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 Toyota Echo. When pushing down on the accelerator, sometimes it won't accelerate. It slows down, almost as if it's going to shut down. I pump the gas pedal, and it'll rev back up to move. It only does this when I'm stopped, like at a stop sign or stop light, and if it's been sitting for any length of time. (e.g. in the garage over night, at my workplace all day, in a friend's driveway for a few hours). A friend checked the battery, and it wasn't snuggly fitted in place the way it should be, so he put extra bolts in to hold it in place good and tight. Before that, though, my car had been sitting for a month, and when I tried to jump it, it wouldn't even turn over. That battery, though, is good and I just got it in Jan 2015. My friend also checked the alternator, and it's also in good shape.
View 3 Repliesmy mechanic thinks there is a problem with the car's frame. Alignment testing showed the front right wheel sitting just behind the position of the left front wheel. He thinks he can fix it. Is that why the struts are leaking so quickly? or could there another reason?
View 8 RepliesMy wife's 2002 Toyota Echo with 205,000 original owner miles on it has a problem where the AC fan does not blow out adequate air at highway speeds. When you put the selector switch to get the maximum airflow and have the fan on high speed, you can HEAR it blowing out but the air coming out of the vents is minimal. It's hot in FL but the car gets excellent mileage so we take it in lieu of our 2008 Tundra.
View 2 RepliesWe have a 2000 Toyota Echo and am having a recurring problem. I have had no luck with the dealership or other mechanic’s. We don’t drive it a whole lot maybe once or twice a week, we usually take my truck. I continually find water standing on top of the engine where the coils and plugs are (it is water not coolant) and the water finds its way into #1 cylinder. I have replaced the gasket on the engine compartment, checked the drain hose from the ac, I even put a little gasket material on the metal cover that covers the top where the coils are. Where the water is coming from and how do I stop it before I buy new coils and plugs?
View 1 RepliesJust replaced the drive belt on my 2001 Toyota Echo, 100k, AC. First replacement as far as I can remember - don't know if a shop ever did it in the past, but doubt it, and did this change myself. I opted to replace because,
1) it seemed about time, and
2) I was getting some belt screech before the engine warmed when it was cold and damp out.
But, now I have an even worse screech. I've only noticed it happening at night (alternator resistance from the headlamps?), when it's cold and there's dew on the windows. It's intermittent, but increases in volume under load (initial acceleration from stop, or downshift to engine brake). I thought it was connected to the dash fan being on, but apparently not, as the sound is present (again, only on cool, damp, nights) when the fan is off, both AC on and off.
One last detail - I may have a bit too much tension on the belt. In this car the tension comes from pulling the alternator away from the engine, and I had a hard time getting a good reading on my tension indicator. I'm likely at the high end of the recommended tension but may be exceeding that to some extent.