Toyota - Echo :: 2000 - Mysterious Noise In Heater That Lasts For 3 Seconds Then Fade Away
Mar 22, 2013
This winter, my little green Echo sprang a noise. I noticed that when I turned on the heater plus fan that it would often (but not always) make a ch, ch, ch, ch, ch, ch sound that would last maybe 3 seconds then fade away, only to be reawakened when I started accelerating after a traffic light. For a while this winter it seemed to happen multiple times in a jaunt about town. (I would usually get a bit nervous, promise myself to have it looked at by my Echo car-diologist, and then turn off the fan for a while.) Just when I was about to take it in, it stopped happening, even with the heat/fan on full. And now it has started happening again. I know peanuts about cars, but my intuition says it's some kind of belt in the fan that's slipping. The car has about 75,000 miles on it....
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My beloved 2000 Toyota Echo has started to stall intermittently. It has worked with no problems for the past 100k miles that I've owned it (purchased used with 40k already.) What happens is that while driving I hear a little click, everything shuts down for a second or so, the red idiot light lights up for a few seconds then clears. It's never lasted more than a few seconds and everything goes right back to normal. And it's only happened maybe a dozen times in the last three months. But it makes me nervous since I have to travel over major bridges and through tunnels regularly where I live.
The stalls usually seemed to occur after the engine has heated up, but I just had an exception this morning. Since I noticed the fan never goes on after long trips anymore, I just had the thermostat replaced but that didn't fix.
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Every once in a while, I hear a sound coming from under my car, possibly the passenger side, that sounds like I am pulling a tin can around. It only lasts about 3 seconds. Sometimes I'll hear it when sitting at a red light, or accelerating from a complete stop. Then the sound disappears. This doesn't happen all the time, but I do feel like I'm hearing it more often as time is going on.
I did a little research online, and some say it could be a rock under my heat panel, but that seems too easy. I don't have any issues with shifting gears or accelerating.
2000 GMC JIMMY 4x4
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I have a 2013 elantra with about 26,000 miles on it. I usually don't use it on weekends and on Monday's it makes a noise that lasts about 3 seconds. I believe the noise comes from a pulley that is not turning.
When this first happened, pulley had a couple of lines where paint peeled off and now the pulley has almost no black paint left. Took the car to dealer, explained how the noise only happens after not using the car for a couple of days, and they have not been able to repeat the problem, they indicate that they can't replace the pulley for this reason and that the wear on the pulley is normal.
What is causing the issue?
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This has happened twice so far, both with around 1/2 tank. After driving for ~25 minutes to work, I will go to shut the car off, and after pushing the key in and pulling it out, there is a mechanical noise from the rear of the car that lasts for about 2 full seconds. Is this the sound of the fuel pump on its way out? Or just an electrical gremlin (no! not in a VW!)?
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I have a 2003 Subaru Forester with 240K miles on it. When I start the engine in the morning, there's a squealing noise under the hood that lasts for a few seconds. (Usually goes away as soon as I pop the hood and look at the engine.) I think it's one of three things: AC compressor, alternator, or power steering pump, but I haven't been able to isolate the noise to one of the three. I don't want to wind up replacing all three.
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I just bought a used 2003 Pilot with 62,000 miles. I quickly noticed a that I hear a faint rumble sound that lasts about 2 seconds at speeds between 30 and 40. It sounds like I ran over a very short and shallow rumble strip. It can happen very quickly as I slowly accelerate. It only happens once, but not every time that I slowly accelerate. It also happen as I am coasting at these speeds. I took it back to the dealer, but they are puzzled. They thought I was crazy until I took them on a test drive and we eventually heard it. They tried adjusting the sway bar, but the sound continues.
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My Honda has 61000 miles on it, it's an automatic . Just had oil change done at 59000, told was good for 5000 mil. The last few days I noticed a trrrr (kind of like a playing card in bike spokes but louder) noise coming from the front of the car, it lasts for a few seconds then stops. It happens mostly when it is in drive but not moving. Stops if I put in any other gear, doesn't happen while I have foot on gas. I did hear it very faintly today while coasting up to a red light otherwise it's always happened while in drive with foot on break. First time it happened was a few seconds after I stopped at a red light. Second time it happened was after the car was parked for an hour. When I got back in and threw it in drive it did it.
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For about the last 6 months or so I get a audio static for about 10-12 seconds every time I turn on the engine. Ditto after I turn off. I am using factory speakers, the head unit was replaced by previous owner. There has been no issue with the audio other than this one. I do live in an extreme weather area: +35C to -40C, but I don't think that should have anything to do with this. Is this a bad ground issue? In that case where do I find the ground cable and how to properly make the ground connection? Or is this something else?
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My daughter has a 2000 (or 2001) Toyota Echo. It has 160,000 miles. The transmission is dead. On the other hand, the engine is in great shape. The mechanic in Georgia has given her a price of $2800. I'm trying to contact them to find out exactly what is going on. Her question: assuming is can be repaired, should she sink the money into it? She asked my opinion, but I'm not a car person by any means.
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My 2000 Toyota Echo has a strange problem. At 60 mph (+/- 5 mph) the temperature light starts flashing. If i slow down it stops. Coolant level is fine. Car doesn't seem to be overheating. Radiator fan is working. With radiator cap removed coolant is not moving when the car is cold, but heats up and circulates as the car gets to temperature .I have heat in the cabin.
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We have a 2000 Toyota Echo and am having a recurring problem. I have had no luck with the dealership or other mechanic’s. We don’t drive it a whole lot maybe once or twice a week, we usually take my truck. I continually find water standing on top of the engine where the coils and plugs are (it is water not coolant) and the water finds its way into #1 cylinder. I have replaced the gasket on the engine compartment, checked the drain hose from the ac, I even put a little gasket material on the metal cover that covers the top where the coils are. Where the water is coming from and how do I stop it before I buy new coils and plugs?
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My beloved 2000 Toyota Echo has started to stall intermittently. It has worked with no problems for the past 100k miles that I've owned it (purchased used with 40k already.) What happens is that while driving I hear a little click, everything shuts down for a second or so, the red idiot light lights up for a few seconds then clears.
It's never lasted more than a few seconds and everything goes right back to normal. And it's only happened maybe a dozen times in the last three months. But it makes me nervous since I have to travel over major bridges and through tunnels regularly where I live.
The stalls usually seemed to occur after the engine has heated up, but I just had an exception this morning. Since I noticed the fan never goes on after long trips anymore, I just had the thermostat replaced but that didn't fix.
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Two months ago I bought a used 2006 Sonata v6 with 54,000 miles. After a few hundred miles I began to hear a rattle on cold start that lasts approx 5 secs. I did my research and saw the TSB concerning the timing chain tensioners. The TSB instructs the dealer to turn the engine off after reaching operating temp then restart after 10 minutes. If there was no noise after the ten minute start then the car is operating normally. My car does not rattle after the 10 minute start up. I just can't see this as a normal characteristic. What could be causing this noise?
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I'm troubleshooting my sons 2000 Echo with a manual transmission. No reverse light. Very puzzling? The red wire with blue stripe in the trunk area is always hot. Makes no difference if the shifter is in reverse gear or not. Yet, the reverse lamps don't come on. I removed both bulbs and tested them at the battery using jumpers. They both come on. I have not gone under the car yet. My question is: does this car have a neutral start switch, and a back up light switch. If yes, which switch is feeding the other? Any pictures of where these switches are located? My guess is that the back up light switch is faulty, if there is one.
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I got this car recently but had driven it several times before. I had never had trouble before, but now it is a very long process to fill the gas tank (at any station/pump type). There was a thread where someone with a similar problem was asking whether this was related to the cold, but my guess is that I have the same problem as this thread: [URL] ....
...where the car had been overfilled too many times and the overfill sensor was stuck on.
1.) Is the problem indeed with a stuck sensor in the tank?
2.) Is this a do-it-yourself fix? How (specifically, beyond "poke a wire in there")?
3.) I had never heard of this before it happened to me.
If it's not something I can fix, what's a reasonable charge from a mechanic?
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The AC in my 2000 Toyota ECHO died a couple of years ago. With the record heat this year, we finally decided to get it fixed. On the first try, the mechanic thought it just needed some adjustment and recharge, and we wanted to save money, so we went that route. Didn't work--kept blowing the fuse. The mechanic advised that we'd need a new compressor. We obtained a remanufactured compressor and had the mechanic install it. Seemed to work OK at first, but now it works only intermittently, with no apparent rhyme or reason. I'm wondering whether it was a mistake not to replace the condenser and drier as well. (Obviously, we were trying to fix it on the cheap!) If we replace the condenser and drier now (about 3 weeks after replacing the compressor), is that likely to fix the problem?
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The engine starts with knocking, rattling, and vibration that lasts for about 5 seconds. It seems to be an intermittent, rare event. With nearly 250,000 Prius in the North American market and the onset of cooler weather, it is time to see how frequently this occurs.
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2006 Sonata LX. It's only on a cold start up and lasts for about 30-45 seconds tops..and then it goes away. Car has 74k on it. Treated well. Only use synthetic oil and no check engine lights. Last oil change I put 5w 30 in it. I know it says to use 5w 20. Could this be the problem?
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I have a 2005 Honda CRV with 139,000 miles that recently developed a miss. It usually does it while holding steady at 50 mph but only lasts for a couple seconds. If it misses may do it once or twice and then nothing the rest of the day. Had the dealership put it on the computer for a reading and they said it's showing no misfires and is running properly. Plugs have been changed other maintenance performed and have had absolutely no issues until now.
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So I installed my intake....again this weekend and have been monitoring it to make sure it doesn't pop off again. When you first start up, there is a very loud growl coming from the intake that lasts about 20 seconds. I also noticed that the breather filter kicks in during this time as well. Is this normal? I would yes but want to understand exactly why...
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