Toyota - Corolla - Clutches :: 2001 - Hard Time Picking Up Speed
Jan 19, 2011
I have a 2001 Toyota Corolla 5 speed manual that is having a hard time picking up speed, but the engine will rev as high as your willing to push down the pedal. The engine runs well its just not affecting the speed of the car very quickly. We replaced the MAF sensor recently and it made little to no difference.
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My 94 Toyota Corolla has about 190,000 miles on it and lately it has had a hard time shifting between 20-30mph. It finally does reach it and does not have trouble shifting at any other speeds. This only happens in the heat of the afternoon (Never have this problem in the morning). Also, my O/D light has been flashing when this happens, or at least around the time it happens. Could these two problems be linked? I took it to my mechanic in the morning and he checked the transmission fluid and it seemed fine, he also had no problems driving around when he tested the car. He said my transmission is going and that I should make "long term" plans. Is there any hope?
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I bought a 2011 Toyota Corolla brand new and the last several winters in the snow the traction has been terrible. Even at very slow speeds, it is difficult to get the car going and keep it straight on snowy roads. I have a 2007 Corolla also that was bought new and never had these similar issues with that car. The current tires on the 2011 car are Bridgestone Insignia SE with about 20k miles on them. But even with less miles, traction has always been an issue.
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I put a clutch and throw out bearing in it about 4 months ago. All the sudden driving went to shift from 3rd to 4th and it wouldn't go. If you turn the car off you can shift it into gears. BUT if you try to turn the car on in gear it just jumps forward. I have had guesses all over the board about what it COULD be. It seems like a very exact problem to me. BUT with that said I have never worked on a car, just drove one.
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Mine is toyota corolla - 2001 VE model. It has 116K miles in it.
It hesitates nowadays to pickup after a long idle time, say in morning when i start to work or when i leave from work to home(idle time of 8 to 10 hrs). I noticed this problem only during very high temp, say atleast 80F.
Hesitation will be there for 4 or 5 secs and will not move even if i give full acceleration, but after that it moves normally.
Car has automatic transmission and i only see this i put it to Drive(D or D2) and not when i do reverse.
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I recently purchased a used 2001 Chevy Blazer with a manual transmission. In order to start it, I have to push very hard on the clutch, almost through the floor. Is there some type of adjustment to make starting a little easier? Also, when I push on the parking brake, it also goes right to the floor and seems like it barely engages.
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I have a 2001, 2wd, XLT, Super Crew with 4.6L and 180000Kms. I am the 2nd owner and have owned it for roughly 6 years. Since owning it I have towed the following: a 1500 Boat, 1000lb full utility trailer, a 2700lb boat, and most recently (Last summer) a 3500lb dry weight/4000lb full 22 foot camper trailer. None of these items ever caused me any problems til mis summer with the camper.
I have always got check engine lights for the stupid coil packs. It seems like I would replace one and a different one would go. I was camping one weekend a short hour distance from my home when I pulled onto the main highway and began to accelerate up to highway speed but it was feeling sluggish picking up to 100kph. When I merged onto the highway it was not a flat piece of ground and was a small grade of a hill, but nothing big. Before getting to the top I started to hear a strange noise, almost like a rattling, and the check engine light started to flash. After breaching the hill, it picked up speed, the light went out, and everything seemed fine.
This happened twice last summer with no other problems. At the end of the summer I once again had a check engine come on...I had blown out a plug, had it fixed and replaced 2 more COPs but still had codes showing for CC, M, F, O, OH, C, E and EV. My reader also said Freeze Frame, and MIL on. I had the truck in in Nov/Dec for an emissions test and it was given a conditional pass due to codes reading but no Check Engine light at this time.
I want to keep this truck...I will be towing the camper again, buit I'm considering getting a different truck. As it is I know I already have to have air bags installed in the rear to level out the load when towing. Hopefully that will cut back on some of the acceleration drag. At present time I have a check engine on...I'll check it again and post what its reading but most likely the same stuff.
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I have a 2010 Toyota Matrix with the 1.8L engine that has a battery drain that is causing it to click and have a hard time starting after it sits. The clicking is constant, and basically sounds like a dead battery, which it is.
Battery was taken out and tested on a bench at Pep Boys, came back 100%.
Checked my voltage at night after driving it and it was at 12.5 V, checked again in the morning and it was down to 9.6 V. I know I have a drain somewhere, and have read I may need to keep a jumper across the negative terminal to ground until the moment I hook up the multimeter to it to check for a power draw? Is this year/model known to have certain issues with parasitic drain?
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My clutch pedal has started squeaking every time I step on it (seems to work fine otherwise). If I hit it with WD-40, is there any risk of lubricating something that shouldn't be lubricated?
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From stop. When I accelerate it takes a long time to get to drive. It feels like a lag time. What is wrong with my car?
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I have a 2000 Corolla CE I bought recently that had 45K miles on it (it has a 4spd auto with O/D).
When accelerating from a stop, I usually take it very slow and I notice that there is a slight jerk most of the time.....it's sort of like I can feel the gears engage. This doesn't happen all the time and it doesn't seem to happen if I accelerate fast.
I did a transmission drain & fill with Royal Purple MaxATF (the drain & fill was only once).
1) Is this normal for this transmission? Also, is there a "pan drop" for this transmission? The mechanic only removed the drain bolt...he did not do the pan drop.
2) During my work commute, I'm in a lot of rush hour traffic where it moves for short distances at 5-10mph. It will shift from 1st to 2nd a lot of times...is better to just put the car in 1st (L) gear? My mechanic said no because it will heat up the transmission faster.
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I filled up my car three day ago and ever since then its been shaking when I brake and when I speed up and pretty much any time the car is moving. Why its doing this I just had it in the shop two weeks ago for a full check up. What the issue could be?
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I have a 1995 Toyota Previa that is having a hard time starting up consistently. Most of the time it starts like a charm, but about 15% of the time the vehicle won't start. It will crank away, sounding like it's out of gas, but just won't start up. BUT if I wait a couple hours and try again it will start up on the first time.
Mechanics have looked at it twice now and are stumped- and of course it starts up fine when it's at the shop. A new battery and a new relay device haven't worked.
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Our 98 Corolla has recently become hard to start. Usually two or three starting attempts for a few seconds before starts and then idles roughly for a few seconds, then drives fine like it always has. Has 51k miles, oil changed regularly, 100k-mile tuneup/spark plug replacement not yet reached (maybe another 18 years, in 2034? Anyway, has performed great always until recently no longer starts immediately. Replaced battery, no change. Have BlueTooth OBD scan tool connects to Android phone - cool display, no codes, what to check, do next?
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My wife's '01 Corolla is having trouble starting. It doesn't turn over. At first I thought it might be the alternator, but when I prime it by pushing the gas, it starts right up. I'm thinking fuel pump or fuel line. It was also having some catalytic converter / 02 sensor issues, so wondering if that could be it too.
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My '96 Toyota Corolla has difficulty going beyond 45 mph on the freeway, especially when the temperature gets down to zero. Normally the car shifts into 3rd gear at 45 mph. Instead it has excessive engine noise. I just keep my foot on the gas, and it goes past 50 mph, but with considerable effort. It sounds like I have the car in 2nd gear when driving at 50 mph. Eventually it "lets go" and shifts to 3rd. There is no CEL on, fuel filter replaced, transmission flushed, spark plugs checked last fall. From other issues I've read, I'm guessing it might be a bad thermostat? The car heats fine. Gas mileage is more than normal. No gas smells when I park. Once the engine warms up, I have no problems with the gears shifting. I had this problem a few years ago. Don't know what my mechanic did to fix it. My budget is pretty tight right now, so if I can fix it myself, I'd really like to do so.
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I have a 2005 Toyota corolla with a little over 200,000 miles on it. My car was struggling to start (but would start after several seconds of turning the key. I figured it needed a new battery because the other battery was old. I had the battery replaced and they cleaned the terminals because they told me they were corroded. With the new battery though, the car is still struggling to start. What could be the issue?
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95 corolla, 260K trouble free miles.
Lately when the car is just "rolling" low speed about 5 mph, occasionally when I give it gas it kind of "slips"...the engine revs a bit but the car doesn't accelerate right away. It's like it's caught between 1st and 2nd. (It's an automatic).
Is this a sign the transmission is slipping? I do go up a very steep hill every day (my driveway) and I shift it into L to do that...I go up at about 3-4 mph or so for 40 yards or so. Maybe this is wearing it out?
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When I start my '03 Corolla its idle speed is around 1200 and later after driving for a few miles it settles down to around 700. Other than that it starts well and runs smoothly. I tried to back off the idle adjustment screw and found out that the screw was barely touching the stop. In older models I used to be able to fix or repair the cold idle in engines with a carburetor, but am totally clueless regarding fuel injectors. This condition also happens when I start the car during the middle of Texas summer (100+ deg).
The car has 123,000 miles. I have not ever changed the plugs, but as i mentioned the engine starts and runs smoothly. As expected, the idle speed responds well whenever the air conditioner is turned on. The engine temperature comes to the mid gauge as always after driving a mile or so. No engine check lights come on. The car always passes the annual smog inspection.
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Corolla '04: I have to press the brake pedal extremely hard to get the shifter to move out of the Park position.
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About a month ago I went to get into my car and it would not start. It tried to but after testing things with my neighbor there didn't seem to be consistent spark. So I bought a new distributor. Got it installed and the car worked great. Then after about a week we had a heavy rain while I was driving. The car shut off and wouldn't start. After the rain was over for about an hour I went to look over the car and it started. I thought with the heavy rain something got wet. Then things really went down hill. A day or so later when I went to start the car it didn't want to start and when it did it would misfire. Later that day the car started fine but would only run right if the engine was warmed up.
I tried covering the car completely with a tarp, no change. My cousin who is a skilled mechanic said he was pretty sure that the issue was the new distributor. So I got a used one, not wanting to pay another large amount again. Put that in the car and no change. So I pulled the plugs on the car. Plugs 1 and 4 had a heavy carbon build up on the tips with pitting in the carbon. I had had them replaced, with the wires back in October. So I replaced the plugs and coated the wires in liquid electrical tape. Car started fine like it does in the afternoons. Nest day it was raining and I went to see what the car would do. It started! I drove it that day with no issue at all. The next day I went to start the car thinking my issues where over. The issue has returned. I changed out the plugs with new ones that night. Car started fine that night. Next day the car is still not wanting to start and misfires when it does. It has been damp but covering it doesn't change anything.
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