I have a little vibration from the motor mounts which disappears with an extra soft touch on the gas pedal at idle. If I would keep the car I would change the mounts, but there are a lot of new parts already....I cleaned inside the plenum.....
View 7 RepliesI have a 2004 4-cylinder Camry. Saturday I changed the passenger side motor mount which was broken and the front motor mount, which did not appear to be broken, but there was more play in it than in the replacement. I had to take the battery out and the air intake in order to have enough room to remove the front mount. To remove the front mount, I jacked up the engine with a 2 X 4 underneath the oil pan so as not to damage it. The passenger side wheel rose several inches off the ground. After everything was back together, the car ran rough at first but eventually got better. The only symptom that remains is a noise and slight vibration when the car is in drive. In neutral and all other gears there’s no noise or vibration. They noise seems to be slightly less when the car starts to roll, and after a few seconds in motion, I can’t hear it. What’s causing the noise? If there a third motor mount that I may need to replace?
View 19 RepliesI am feeling more vibration at idle than I believe I've felt in the past. I can feel it in the seat more than I remember before. Granted, it's not like the car is shaking or anything, but I can feel it more than I think I should. Could this be the motor mounts?
View 6 RepliesI had my motor mounts replaced about 2 weeks ago with APR ones and noticed that vibrates more than before at idle. is this normal? One guy told me that it takes about a month for the new motor mounts to adjust and then it will not vibrate that much. after two weeks no changes. Also I noticed that they did not put the rubber cover on the left motor mount (passenger side) could this missing rubber cover bring any issues on the short term?
View 2 RepliesI replaced the motor mounts, and now there is a vibration at speed (70 or so). I've taken it to Michigan and back, so it is probably broken in. Can these things be put in improperly?
View 13 RepliesI bought an 89 celica gt back in december of last 2010. and my motor mounts recently went out on me and i was wonder how difficult it would be and exactly how many motor mounts does my car have? I am fairly new to car repair.
View 3 Replies2002 Passat 1.8T 170,000. My motor mounts have been slowly going bad for a few months now and they are now to the point where when I am slowing down as it is shifting down into third, it feels like I am being rear ended. My question is, is this doing damage to my engine and tranny or is it more of an annoyance.
View 4 RepliesI recently found out my motor mounts are bad. Almost a year ago I noticed I was leaking coolant so I just filled it with water every time it was empty. Now I have been getting an overheating problem if it's not filled to the right amount. Just yesterday the problem got worse as there is green gunk at the opening of the radiator and it's always hot. The reservoir is filling up with hot water a lot of the time. My radiator will be empty when that happens. As I was driving the gauge was reading hot. Turning on the heater didn't work much. I tested it tonight, with the radiator full and 2 cups water in reservoir. Drove it a few blocks and turned off car. Radiator had lots of pressure and hot. The reservoir was same level.
View 6 RepliesAny explantion for how a "bad" starter motor can crank the engine, but use too many amps in the selenoid circuit?
I had this problem when I installed a rebuilt starter motor in an early 1990's Toyota Corolla recently. It was one of those offshore rebuild starter motors. When I installed it, and turned the key to start, nothing. ARRG .. I have to take it back, and it takes me about 2 hours to install it, and another 1 hour to remove it! It's not like changing a lightbulb!
Anyway, first off, before removing it, I checked the voltage (that comes in the smaller cable from the ignition switch,not the one in the thick cable direct from the battery) right at the starter selenoid, and it was only 8.6 volts. At first I thought it was a weak battery, but the battery voltage was 11.8 volts under the same load at the battery. And the voltage at the ignition switch was 11.6 volts. It was loosing 3 volts in the wiring path from the ignition switch to the starter motor! Then I noticed the wiring harness was getting warm that held that wire. Oh Oh.
For the life of me I couldn't figure out what was wrong. Unwilling to throw in the towel and remove the unit, I decided to completely bypass the ignition switch and the entire wiring harness, so I wired it up with my own switch I bough at Radio Shack and my own 16 AWG (the wire in the harness is 18 AWG) wires clipped direct from the battery to the starter selenoid. This is all from the front of the car. I just wanted to see if I could get it to turn and crank the engine. It worked, it cranked ok and everything, but the second time I tested it with this experimental configuration, it melted my 10 Amp Radio Shack switch! The switch was supposed to be able to handle 10 amps! Remember, this is the selenoid circuit, not the main power circuit from the battery.
So I then DID throw in the towel, and took it out, took the starter motor back to the auto parts place. ( I had a little dust-up with the parts place manager; he at first refused to refund my money. He wanted me to take another rebuilt one, but I'd lost trust in their rebuilt units and I just wanted my $$ back. We compromised on a voucher for future purchases.) Anyway, the parts place tested the problem starter motor I had returned to them, and they said it tested "bad". So the one they sold me was indeed no good. (Why they didn't test it before they sold it to me is another question.)
But here's the mystery: If the rebuilt starter motor tested "bad", and it indeed was "bad", how could it have cranked the engine with the experimental heavy guage wiring ? Any explantion for how a "bad" starter motor can crank the engine, but use way too many amps in the selenoid circuit?
The air conditioning blower motor stopped working this past summer (worst timing ever). I took it out, put it back in, and it worked again for a day before dying for good. So, I ordered a new one and replaced it. The replacement was working fine for about 5 months, but it then began exhibiting the same problem as the original: it wouldn't come on until after I'd been driving for a while. The new unit never made any unusual noises while running (the old one got noisy just before I replaced it), but now it isn't coming on at all. I find it hard to believe that the replacement blower motor has failed after only 5 months. What else should I check?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2002 Toyota Corolla CE with 160,000 miles on the odometer. While driving at highway speeds (50+ mph), if I let off the gas ever-so-slightly, an audible ticking (like the sound of a sewing machine) begins. It immediately goes away as soon as the motor begins to decelerate or accelerate again. It ticks the loudest while the motor is directly in between accelerating and decelerating, while I am trying to maintain the speed I am traveling at. The sound started 6 months ago and was almost unnoticeable, but has gotten steadily louder the more I drive it. From what I have already researched, I believe it might the valve lifters needing to be changed, but wanted to get a second opinion.
View 2 RepliesI'm suspecting that my motor mounts are going bad, but I'm not 100% sure. I have a video of the engine movement when slipping the clutch and revving the engine with the e-brake on. [URL]............................... I don't need high performance ones, but don't want to spend a ton on OEM ones either.
View 5 RepliesSo ever since i put stiffer motors mounts in my car, the trans has whined. It was perfectly fine before the new motor mounts.
Its not nearly as loud as what straight cut gears sound like....but after taking my car on a road trip to Atlantic City this weekend, it does get annoying after a while. Happens every gear but at low RPMS... 1900-3000 RPMS.
4th gear seems to be the worse. This is not my daily driver so i can live with it, but if it was my daily i would be annoyed and probably but the stock mounts back in. While on the road course i do not hear it because i am at high RPMS and the noise isn't really there (well it might get muffled by the sound of the engine but i hear no whine)
I actually hear everything going on in the trans to be honest, i can hear the clutch engaging/disengaging and every move i make with the trans. (i am glad i still have the dual mass because im sure the chatter would be 10 times louder with stiffer mounts)
I run OEM trans fluid... i have heard of some guys running different fluid to quiet it down some...
just replaced the timing belt and water pump on my '97 Acura TL. (80k mi), It now vibrates in gear at idle,but runs like a champ above 1000 RPMs. Didn't do it when I took it in. Our trusted mechanic says it's the motor mounts. I say "how do motor mounts go bad overnight?" There are small drips on my driveway under the car.
View 19 RepliesI have an '05 Dodge Neon SXT (4.0) with 113,000 miles on it. A few days ago, I had three cracked motor mounts replaced. However, I'm experiencing an increased amount of vibration when the engine is idle. I've had the timing belt , the accessory belt, water pump and valve replaced within the last year. I also recently had a coolant flush and an oil change. I was told that the timing belt cover is broken and I intend to have that fixed in the near future. However, I do not believe the timing belt cover is the cause of the vibration since it was broken and did not cause vibration before the motor mounts were replaced. Why I having the vibration?
View 2 RepliesI suspect I have an oil leak where the oil pump mounts to the motor.
It looks fairly simple to replace, but I was reading in the Haynes manual something about the timing chain?
So I don't know if it's more involved than I think.
I have a 2000 Corolla with 51k miles that I bought a couple of months ago.
Things I replaced:- both front ball joints- both front CV axles (half shaft)...previous left front one was leaking- all struts (complete struts that included coil, strut, mount)- all sway bar end links- 4 new tires (only put 200 miles on them)- balance and alignment - Firestone checked for bent rims - none found- Made sure all 4 PSI levels are 30
Before the new tires, there was a vibration at 60-70mph, after the new tires, there is a vibration at 40-50..seems to go away at 60-70mph. When braking, the steering wheel shimmied (turn left/right short distances rapidly)...replacing the ball joints fixed that....the mechanic also tightened the front control arms..that could've fixed it too.
When going very slowly over a flat road, I can feel the front left tire "hop" very slightly. By hop, I mean that it is not round like (seems like a high spot). I jacked all 4 wheels and checked for any amount of play - none.
Could this be an out of balance (even though I put 4 new tires) or control arm issue? Maybe the control arm bushings are gone and it allows vertical movement during load?
When turning the steering wheel left, it also makes a "pop" sound which is definitely coming from the strut mount area...might be related.
Going to replace motor mounts. Foot on brake and placed in gear engine flexes back about 2". Doesn't seem to flex side to side or forward. Replaced dog bone the metal in the middle of the bushing had a visible crack. Still flexes. I am confused about replacing them. Should I replace all including the 2 rear mounts? This is what I have read in many posts and been told by a trans shop. Can I just replace the front and dog bone? Parts guy told me that was all that I needed to do if it wasn't flexing side to side. These things are expensive 170- ea for oems so if I don't have to replace the rear I won't. However I don't want to trash the new ones cause I didn't replace them all.
View 3 RepliesI have recently had my motor mounts and transmission mount replaced.
Before the replacement, the car would shake quite noticeably when the engine was being started (maybe even shake 'violently'). I thought this was normal until I had my motor mounts and transmission mount replaced. Now when I start the engine the SC430 doesn't shake at all. The difference is profound.
Just a head's up. I'm not sure what the implications are of running with bad motor mounts for a long time, but I decided to get it done because my car would shake when idle and at stop lights.
So I had been noticing a bit of wheel hop in third gear before my UM flash. Just got the flash a few days ago, and I love it. But since then two things have arisen:
- When sitting at idle, the car vibrates. I can feel it through the brake/gas pedals and steering wheel. I didn't notice it prior to the UM tune. It's like an undulating feeling even more than a vibration.
- When upshifting, I now seem to get a clanging sound/feeling if I upshift anywhere less than about 3200 RPMs. It doesn't always happen, and it won't happen if I'm really fast with engaging the clutch after taking my foot off the gas. But it is disconcerting.
Prior to the tune, I had gotten used to the sort of bucking and whatnot when you let off the gas and learned how to shift to minimize it. But now it isn't as easy to do a mellow, smooth upshift under 3000 RPM's...i.e. if I just want to pull away slowly from a stop. My question is, do these sound like symptoms of bad motor mounts? The car has just under 25k miles on it. The mounts are all stock. I was wondering if the UM tune was just enough extra power to put one or more of them over the edge.
Have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra 2.0, 4-dr sedan, with 120,000 ,miles on it. Since we bought it in 2007, there occasionally was a thumping noise, seemed like from the rear. Well now, I have just about changed everything you can think of on this engine. But when I put in gear, or am stopped at red light the cars idle is terrible, runs very rough. Someone said maybe the motor mounts? If so how can I tell, approx cost, and are there only the two?
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