Toyota - Corolla :: SRS Light Came On For The Airbags
Feb 14, 2012
So I am not sure if this is coincidence or not but... I just got done adding new stuff to my stereo in my 2006 Corolla Xrs. In the process the SRS light came on for the airbags. I took it to the dealer and was told it was the seat belt pretentioner. The dealer told me to check and make sure I did not hit any of the wiring when adding my stuff. I checked no wires or anything were cut that I can see. So, How do I fix this and what exactly does the seat belt pretentioner do?
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I own a 2010 Toyota Corolla S the 1.8L 2ZR-FE engine. Today after work I started the car in a sheltered car garage and as soon as I started the car the after the initial start up sequence the check engine light stayed on and the traction control light stayed on and right next to it on the left side the "VSC Off" light kept blinking and flashing. I turned off the car and started it several times to see if that did anything and to no avail nothing happened.
While I was driving those lights stayed on and the VSC off light kept on blinking.
I also checked the brakes and the brake fluid and they all seem to be fine, I even checked the fuel door as well.
I am not sure what is wrong. I was looking at some of the complaint sites and most people say it happens when you drive through a deep puddle or if it is cold and wet outside. But that didn't make sense because I drove in the snow and those lights never turned on. The only time I used the ETS button is during the snow storms and I drive at low speeds.
I need to know why this VSC off light is blinking? Is it a bad sensor or is the ABS/ETS brake system broken or is it an ECU issue or is it because of an alignment. Since I was told to get an alignment soon.
See also: 2010 Toyota Corolla Question: Check engine light on and "VSC off" light blinking with the ETS light on.
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2016 Toyota Avalon, Camry Recalled Because Airbags May Not Deploy
Toyota Motor Sales U.S.A. is recalling approximately 16,880 2016 Toyota Avalon sedans and 41,630 2016 Toyota Camry sedans because some airbags may not deploy properly.
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This is a California car that won't pass smog tests with a lit check engine light. I don't know the specific code, but the description is that the torque converter is staying in the "off" position. Apparently the lock up torque converter is part of the emissions system in that if the torque converter does not lock up then the rpm's are higher and that produces more pollutants.
1st step was to flush out the transmission and the flush made sure all the fluid in the torque converter was removed and replaced. After that was done the trans fluid has stayed nice and clean and pink for about 400 miles. The CEL was turned off after this service but came back on in a few days at about 200 miles. Next, the solenoid that activates the torque converter was replaced. The CEL was turned off again, an this time the CEL came back on after a hour of driving on local errands.
Me and my generally good mechanic are hung up now. We were betting the solenoid change out would solve the problem. It seems that the torque converter is in fact operating properly. The tranny shifts smoothly and the rpm's drop at the proper times indicating the torque converter is locking up.
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At a service station in NJ, my gas cap flew into the wind and the attendant replaced it. My check engine light came on a day after getting gas (not in NJ) so I took it in to my garage. Ends up that the (new) gas cap has a crack and a new one is getting ordered. Now, whenever I am filling up the gas tank, it keeps shutting itself off (very frequently . . . like every 1/2 gallon or so). This happened when the check engine light was on and after it was initially turned off by the mechanic. I asked a mechanic at the garage because it keeps happening and I can't fill the car fully and he said it happens with some cars and you have to hold it a certain way or something. This can't be fixed and I'll just have to get used to it until I get a new car. My question -- how could this have just started happening? Its a 2002 Corolla and I've had it for years without problems. Is it possible that when I get a new gas cap and the computer gets re-started, it will fix itself?
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When I stop for a few minutes, such as at a light, or making a left hand turn, my car hesitates. The place I take it to cannot find the problem and they have replaced a lot of things in it, but still no change. It is a 2002 car, so it is a little older, but I have always kept it in good shape, it has 65,000 miles on it.
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My 05 corolla has a "maintenance required" light that has come on on the right side of my dash. I have taken care of the car and changed the oil every 3000 miles. I have changed the oil myself though so I don't have to pay 30 dollars for 8 dollars worth of oil. I'm thinking this light is just some program reminder, but what this light is and how I can turn it off.
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I have a Toyota Corolla 96. The check light is on. I took it to AutoZone and the guy told me everything is Ok. I looked the oil level this morning and it was low. The temperature sensor is normal and the car runs fine. My car experience is almost zero....
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A few weeks ago on a short drive, my car (2000 Toyota Corolla) started shuddering/pulsating when I was stopped at a red light (and it kept doing that intermittently as I drove the few blocks home.) Next time I tried to start it, it turned over but then died. Towed it to the mechanic, he said it was a dead ignition coil, he replaced the coil and it was able to start again.
Less than a week (and not much driving - 50 miles tops) later, on the highway, it starts shuddering again, feels way underpowered, and the check engine flashes. It's pretty scary. I pull over and have it towed to the mechanic. (It still starts up but doesn't feel safe to drive, plus the check engine light is flashing.) First he says one of the fuel injectors needs to be replaced, then he says that on further testing it was actually another dead ignition coil. He replaces the ignition coil (he didn't end up replacing the fuel injector) and I pick up the car.
It's fine on the drive home (which is about 3 city miles, no highway driving) and on another neighborhood errand, and the check engine light isn't on, but now it's sort of shuddering again. I don't want to keep driving it and/or try it on the highway to wait for it to get worse.
I guess I'll take it in again tomorrow, but does this seem odd at all? I know some people replace all 4 ignition coils at once pre-emptively, but it would seem strange for 3 to fail within ~150 miles (assuming this is yet another ignition coil.) What else might be going on? I had the spark plugs changed last year so those should be fine. The car has pretty low miles on it (about 100k) for the age.
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Car is a 2000 Corolla with 62k miles. My rear brake light (driver side) went out (pretty sure it is the bulb). 2 months ago the blinker relay went out and I replaced it.
Do most mechanics have the bulb on hand?
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Recently I had a new clutch put in my car (192,000 miles on it) at the toyota dealership. My car has never been the same. It has not pep to it and bucks now. I brought it back when the engine light came on and they said I needed new spark plugs (my husband replaced them with non toyota ones and the car ran fine) so I said fine. The light went off but car still didn't run better. The light has come back on, we found out how it get it to go off and put some cleaner in the gas tank. After 2 days the light came back on again and the car still runs poorly. I don't want to go back to toyota since they messed my car up in the first place.
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My girlfriend's 2001 Toyota Corolla has a recurrent Check Engine light problem. It has 144,000 miles on it. For the last few years, we have been unable to keep the light turned off. We have replaced the oxygen sensors and cleaned the MAF sensor. Our mechanic can't find the problem.
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I have a 2004 Toyota Corolla.
Check engine light was on so I took the car to Midas they pulled a code (133) and they said its Oxygen Sensor is not working. I took the car to Auto Zone for second opinion, Auto zone confirmed that Oxygen Sensor might be having problem. Then I inquire in couple of places for the price to fix O2 sensor, all most all places I got the same quote to fix it.And after a day or so check engine light went off. Check engine light was on for a day or so.
Now I am confused, is there a problem with Oxygen sensors? Should I still go ahead and fix these sensor or should I wait till Check engine light comes back again?
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When I first turn on my car the maintenance required light goes on for a couple seconds then goes off. I looked it up in the manual and that light says that it means the oil needs to be checked. I just bought the car certified used and they said that I didn't need an oil change for another 5000 miles because they just did it. Is that light supposed to go on automatically every time I turn the car on then go off?
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I've recently noticed that the right brake light on my 2003 corolla is not working. When I turn on the light, all the bulbs in the rear right seems to light up (except turn signal of course). when I pressed on the brake, the right brake bulb doesn't get brighter like the left one. Two questions:
1. Am I crazy when I see the brake light bulb turn on with other bulbs (i.e. is it suppose to be on when light is turn on and just get brighter when brake is pressed)?
2. Is this a burnt out bulb that I can easily replace myself or potentially a wiring problem that I may need a mechanic for?
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For a few months, I have been getting check engine lights on my Toyota Corolla 2002. The check engine light often goes away by itself.
I took my car to a mechanic with a decent reputation after a couple weeks of the problem. He thought he fixed it and gave the car back to me. The check engine light kept coming back on, and I kept going back. The mechanic topped off the coolant, replaced certain hoses, host clamps, sensors and other parts (like the solenoid canister). After the fifth trip back (and eight weeks of time), he refunded my money.
The check engine light comes on and goes off. Right now with no check engine light on, I get codes P0125 and PO441 PD.
What will happen if I keep ignoring these check engine lights or the codes that persist when the check engine light is not on? I was thinking of going to another mechanic. I think I want to wait for a few more weeks to see if I notice a pattern. I do not drive that many miles each day (much less than average).
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I have a 2002 Toyota Corolla CE with about 115,000 miles.While I was traveling on the highway my car started shaking, losing power, and the check engine light started flashing. I drove a mile or two to a rest area because I didn't want to pull over on the highway. I had it towed home. It starts and idles, but I'm afraid to get it out on the road.
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I have a 1996 Toyota corolla base model,my dome light stopped working a bout a year ago,I clean the contacts and bulb with sand paper,light would then work for about 2 weeks now When I clean contacts light will only work for a few hours. Have tryed new bulbs many times does not make any difference, don't know what to do.
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I have a 1989 Toyota Corolla SR5 AllTrac wagon, manual trans with 160k+ miles. It had been running ok - until I got an oil change. I am wondering if I should do the repairs to get it inspected - new tires, battery, driver-side mirror, and rust repair (small hole near rear wheel well, driver's door; sunroof has rust - that's not an inspection item but needs to be done). The rear-wheel differential has been making grinding/whining noise for about a year; it's probably time to rebuild. Back to the oil change - my car ran great, got the oil changed at Monro; then the car started dripping oil, then was very difficult to start and stalled at stops, even brief ones, also when any gas was applied.
I noticed a light grey smoke from the car on start-up, which went away. I first thought it just needed a tune-up, but when I saw the smoke, I thought there might be oil leaking into the valves. I love this car, but the body is really in need of work. The underneath is pretty solid. In the meantime, I still need a car. I thought of getting a small used gas-saving sedan, and putting some money into the All-Trac to use it for gardening, hauling stuff, etc. , and actually, even though a wagon, it's fun to drive. Can you tell I love my Rosie? My other option is to buy a car ... ick... I don't want car payments. I'm looking at a 2006 Subaru Forester with 42k today, am a bit wary of Subaru repairs, and the steep sticker price.
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Had the oil changed today; before doing so, I saw that the check engine light had come on. Have been told by 3 professional car maintenance people that there is no connection between needing oil / oil change and check engine, that it would have been the check maintenance light.
Will take it in for diagnostic test by dealer. Also, was told by the oil change guy that he heard pinging which could mean that the car needs to have the valves adjusted, and that the check engine light is due to needing something or other with the gas tank filter which could have a leak/crack, etc.
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I drive a 98 Toyota Corolla. This morning I notice when I was driving that I had to get up to a higher speed when I shifted into 5th gear. And also when I did shift it was not as smooth as it once was, it started tp shake slightly and felt like it puttered briefly (the only way I could describe it). When I got about 5 minutes away from work, my check engine light starts flashing then eventually shuts off. What I need to do or if I can solve this myself?
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