Toyota - Corolla :: Rattling Noise Audible In Drive And Reverse?
Dec 5, 2011
My '99 Toyota Corolla with 145K miles is making this rattling noise. It is audible in drive and reverse, but not in neutral or park. At first I thought coming from the dashboard area, like under the hood. However, I tried listening under the hood and couldn't really hear it over the engine noise. Finally I realized it actually seems to be coming from under the dashboard on the driver's side, right above the pedals. I made a recording holding the microphone down there. Here is a link to the audio file: [URL] .....
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I have a 2009 Toyota Matrix S. There is a rattling noise coming from my engine compartment whenever i drive 60+ mph. It sounds like it's metal on metal. Nothing is loose inside. I took it to the dealer and they told me the water pump bearings were bad and replaced my whole water pump. That didn't resolve my problem. The rattling is still there.
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I have a 2010 Toyota Corolla with 75,000 miles on it. Over the last few days, I have noticed that there is a rattling noise occurring in the front passenger side of my car around the glove box area when the heat is on. As soon as the heat is turned off, the rattling goes away. It's a relatively faint, whistling noise. The rattling does not change loudness or frequency if I drive faster or slower. It only changes with the heater being on/off. I'm thinking it is either something with the car heater or maybe there is some debris stuck somewhere?
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I've noticed a rattling noise coming from under the front of my 02 toyota corolla. I looked under the car and there seems to be a piece of metal under the front of the car thats vibrating and making the noise. The piece of metal is almost directly in the middle front of the car, in-between the front tires. The sound seems to be most prominent when I accelerating or backing up.
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I purchased a used 2010 Toyota Corolla LE with about 40k miles back in February of this year. Since then, the car has been issue-free and has responded accordingly.
Two weeks ago I noticed that the car when idle or at a stop light it'd make a subtle rattling noise (as if it was something behind the glove compartments rattling against metal). At 1st I thought maybe it was something inside, but as that week turned to days, I noticed that while I was outside the car and it was on and idle, I could hear the rattling from the right side of the car under the passenger seat (closer to the engine, as if right below where the glove compartment sat)--It is a constant rattle at the same frequency..meaning it doesn't rattle one way 1st and then another later. It sounds the same, but it is random.
It evolved from a subtle rattle inside to being a loud rattle outside under the car. I noticed that if it was rattling and I turned off the air, the rattling would stop, but after 20 seconds, the rattling would return just not as frequent.
It was advised to me that perhaps it was the blower...but the blower sits behind the glove compartment and should not sound so loud under the car. Not only that, but if the blower isn't on (when I turn off the air) it shouldn't sound...at least that's my logic for it.
The sound is getting louder and more frequent at this time and I'm just not sure what to do about this. I live in Miami, FL and hearing so many rip offs at mechanics, I don't know what this rattling is and I've already crawled under the car and see nothing wrong, nothing shaking violently, nothing.
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I hear a loud Rattling noise from back of 09 Corolla,when I put it in gear- just came out of nowhere...
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Here's what happens to my car: If its in park you can floor the throttle and its smooth and quiet for the most part. Same with reverse. I can put it in reverse, back up hard and it's smooth. When i put it in drive, stationary, it sounds rough. When I'm taking off from a stop it sounds rough until I'm at a good cruising speed at which point it seems smooth, until stopped again … … The noise is rough in both drive and reverse. Note: this stops for about a day after hoisting the rear end. Also, when going down the highway, the throttle "pauses " for a moment, then resumes speed about every 5 minutes ...
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When I drive over bumps or dips my car makes this clunking noise in the front passenger side. I just had the front brake assembly replaced as well as the engine mounts but the noise is still occurring. what could this be and would it affect my new brakes in any way?
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I just got a 2013 Corolla Saturday (manual transmission). So far, I love the car, but I think I'm having a problem with the steering column. When I turn the steering wheel in a parked position, I can hear an audible "rubbing" noise coming from the column. I called the dealership, and spoke not only to the service department, but also to my salesman, who has one too. He says he's never heard that, and the service department assures me it's normal and is because it's an electric motor now instead of a fluid power steering system.
So, do I have reason to be concerned? Experienced this after only 300 or so miles on a new car? We traded a Scion IQ for this Corolla (didn't like the CVT whine in the IQ), and never heard anything like this.
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I have a 2003 Mazda 6 and heard a rattling sound in the engine ONLY when the car is in drive or reverse, never when in Park. My mechanic said it is the clutch in the alternator that is coming apart and so the Alternator - tensioner - belt all needs to be replaced for a total of almost $800. Does this seem reasonable?
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My sister's 2010 corolla with 80k has a rattling. She sent a video. The oil level is fine. She had a belt squeak previously that she had fixed. My concern is a bad water pump. Is there a service bulletin on this that we can confirm?
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I'm absolutely clueless when it comes to cars. I bought a 99 Carolla with 130k miles from a family friend, Randy, who owns a repair shop. The car was brought in with a blown engine as its previous owner ignored its oil needs. Randy put in an engine with 90k miles and tightened the motor mounts. It made the 14 hour trek from Nashville to my new home in Houston, but now the bottom makes a rattling noise going over any bump. I'm not talking big potholes- even tiny cracks cause it to rattle. Some notes:
The exhaust sounds normal. The sound is coming from in front of me at ground level beneath the hood. Just took it for a test drive and I heard it from both sides as well as the middle. I don't feel it through the steering wheel, pedal, or seat. The only thing indicative of a problem is the noise. If I had the radio on at full blast, I wouldn't know there was an issue.
The check engine light also came on. I took the car to AutoZone and got two errors- the first, P0505, was an air control valve control circuit (probable causes per AutoZone: open or short circuit condition, poor electrical connection, and/or failed IAC motor) and the second, P0420, was catalyst system efficiency below threshold- bank 1 (causes: air leak in exhaust before rear HO2S (heated oxygen sensor), AF sensor error, fuel system fault, and/or faulty catalytic converter).
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I think I resolved the idle issue on my 2009 Corolla S with 82,500 miles and Automatic Transmission.
Symptoms:
Idled at between 600 and 800 rpms
Annoying vibration in drive and reverse, no vibration in park or neutral
On hard stops, the engine felt like it was going to die
Turning on the a/c would cause the idle to increase to 1000 rpms and the vibration would go away.
At 82,500 miles, I cleaned the throttle body which was extremely dirty.
Process:
Disconnect the positive battery cable
Remove the top of the air box and flex duct going to the throttle body
Disconnect the two coolant lines going to the throttle body, make sure and have a few old bolts to plug the lines so you do not lose too much coolant
Remove the electrical connector to the throttle body
Remove the vacumn line to the valve cover
Remove 2 bolts and 2 nuts (10mm) securing the throttle body to the intake.
The throttle body does not have a gasket, it is an o-ring which should be fine.
Once you have the throttle body off of the engine, clean it thoroughly with Chemtool throttle body cleaner.
The inside of the throttle body and throttle plate should look like shiny milled aluminum. when done.
Spray chemtool into the two ports where the antifreeze lines were connected. If possible use compressed air to blow out these ports.
Clean the inside of the intake and the mesh screen where the throttle body bolts to the intake.
Reassemble, connect the battery, crank the engine and just let it idle for a good 10 minutes
The 2009 Corolla S DOES NOT have a serviceable IAC. It is riveted on to the throttle body. This is why it is important to spray the cleaner in the antifreeze ports in order to clean it. These ports are the antifreeze bypass ports.
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My husband's 1991 Toyota Corolla goes into reverse when he first starts it in the morning but...then it won't go into reverse the next time (same day) he tries to start it.
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I have 70,000 miles and this weird rattling somewhere in front, probably drivetrain, only audible at 60-70 mph, medium load, so no pinging. worse on high speed right turns, like highway entrance, and in this circumstance audible at about 50mph.
I recently did cleaning of intake manifold, EGR pipe, and TB and an oil change and no change. The noise is totally absent in city/suburb style of driving with speeds up to 50mph. what could that be? It's clearly getting worse. could it be connected to the CV clicking noise i have at slow speeds?
I searched some more and there are few threads about noise that sounds like pinging, but doesn't behave like pinging. no resolution except for the standard advice about higher octanes and gas additives:
-Engine ping under load
-Higher octane gas for fuel pinging
-Engine pinging
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This car was running fine until my daughter brought it to a reputable tire shop to have new tires put on and an alignment done. The day after this was done, she started having issues with the car not wanting to move when it is in drive. It would eventually take off, but very reluctantly, and once she got going down the road it would be fine. After a couple days like this, it just wouldn't go at all in drive unless someone was pushing it. It goes fine in reverse.
The transmission fluid level had been recently checked, and was fine. Now when this problem cropped up and it was checked, the fluid was gone! We don't notice anything on the ground where it has been parked.
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Recently blew the belt that runs the water pump, etc while on a vacation. Had to leave the car at a small mechanic in Winthrop, WA. He replaced the Water pump which had gone bad and the belt that shredded. The car ran beautifully for a week. Now there is this constant rattling sound coming from the water pump area. I attached a video with the sound. The sound will quicken as you accelerate. At cold start up it is usually not present then starts a couple of minutes in.
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1990 Corolla 4AFE - 4cyl , auto, running well...without prior symptoms, now starts (4-5 times) and idles roughly (no moisture in the air) ....seems to me to be fuel..... I know it could be many things - but i have to travel to the car ( not much time last night) .....It doesn't rev clean, sounds choking and very slow especially in drive/rev....not as sharp misses. Start with the fuel filter ? Can the fuel pump go quickly ?or does it go slowly. injectors? I'll check for coil arcing tonight, and the strength of the exhaust (Cat is 23 yrs old.....Vinny?) IAC? ..... Dist cap, wires and plugs are good...
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Today I parked my 2014 Toyota Corolla while the shift was in drive and I turned off my engine. I let go of the brakes and it began to move backwards. I then realized what happened and shifted to Park and took out the keys and turned the engine back on to park it correctly. The on screen display seemed to restart or something when I did so. Will this hurt my vehicle? It is a CVT transmission by the way.
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Brake and Revers lights not working on 1999 Toyota Corolla? I have checked fuses and wire connections with no results. My brake and reverse lights just stopped working yesterday and I don't know what else to check.
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5 speed stick shift, first thing in the morning no problem, after driving a while it shakes in reverse and does not want to move, going forward is no problem, clutch and cv joints were replaced 4 years ago, 170k miles.
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