Toyota - Corolla :: P0171/ P0420 And P0441 OBD Codes - Excessive Oil Burning
Dec 19, 2012
I just bought a used Toyota Corolla 2002 CE with 120K miles two months ago. the car seemed fine and drives fine too. After a while I found out that the seller had removed the "check engine" light, so I read the error code by a instrument and I got these errors. 171,420,441. And I noticed that the engine burn a quarter oil every 200 miles on long drives!I checked the VSV valve and connected hoses but no problem there. Since the car has just 120K miles, I'm not sure that the piston rings are worn out! I'm wondering what could cause all of these errors?
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Actually I bought a used Corolla 2002 with 120K which seemed fine and the driving is fine. After I bought it, I just found out that the seller has removed the check engine light. When I read the ODB codes, It shows three codes of 0171, 0420, 0441. Also I have recently found out that the engine burns excessive amount of oil. (about a quarter per 200 miles). Actually the driving of the car is fine and as long as I add oil engine it seems fine.I think all of these errors might be just due to a small problem like a broken valve (since it's not high mileage). It seems that there is no vacuum leak from hoses as well.
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I've been having P0441 & P0455 codes showing up on my 2007 Corolla CE. My code reader tells me the areas that need checked. But, I can't find the vacuum switching valve on it so that I can check it for problems. Somebody said it's under the hood, but I can't seem to locate it.
Is is possible that it's mounted on the vapor canister (which I have located above the rear axle)?
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So one day when I was driving, the CEL comes on, and then I go to autozone to get my free diagnosis. I got codes: P0441 and P0171
My engine is running fine and everything else seems to be in order. However, I have to get a new canister purge valve and new oxygen sensors, in order to be in the clear.
For the Oxygen sensors, I have AN IDEA of where they're located; somewhere underneath the car, by the catalytic converter (the converter is in between the two connectors, apparently). I have yet to do this and would like some opinions on what to do for it.
For the Canister Purge Valve, I have no clue where to look. I pop open the hood and I notice a diagram with labels. Great, but there are just too many other pieces to look at...I do not know if it is visible as soon as I pop open the hood, or if I have to dig deeper, or even if I have to remove the fancy plastic thing that covers the engine.
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What I need to do to fix these codes
p0171 system too lean bank 1
p2637 torque management
p0420 ...
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I have a 2000 Toyota Camry with 90,300 miles. Last week check engine light came on and mechanic said it was P0440 and charcoal canister needed replacement. Did the repairs and 20 miles and two days later CEL is on again. Take it back to mechanic and codes this time are P0441 and P0446. I'm told I need a new gas cap, so it's replaced with new one from dealer. 15 miles later, CEL comes back on and I return to mechanic. This time it's reading all three codes, but they can't find anything wrong. The only parts not replaced are the vacuum seal valves, which mechanic says test as good. They reset lights and 15 miles later, the check engine light is back on. My mechanic is baffled. What the problem could be or what they should check? Car drives fine, but light coming on is annoying.
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About two weeks ago, while driving on a hot, humid summer night, the check engine light in my 1998 Toyota Corolla came on. The following day, I took it into my mechanic, who plugged it in and came up with the code P0441 (Purge flow fault). He told me it was likely related to the fuel vapor canister, though I see this can also have to do with vacuum lines for the purge valve and canister or a bad purge valve itself. My gas cap was, and had been, tight, so it wasn't something as simple as that.
Reluctant to deal with this immediately, I went back to driving it, and lo and behold - the light went off after several days! Unfortunately, the light came BACK ON after several more. And most recently (a few days after coming on again), the light has now gone off!
Both times the light has gone off, the weather has been rather wet, but otherwise, there doesn't seem to be a clear pattern. What this on again off again pattern might say about the problem?
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I have a 1992 Toyota Camry. It had been burning gas, losing powere, white smoke smoking excessively through the tailpipe, and idling extremely rough, sometimes to the point of dying. It ran ok at highway speeds, but terrible everywhere else. We figured that it was getting moisture into the engine. We essentially did an upper engine overhaul, replacing gaskets and parts as necessary. It ran fine after this, and then three weeks later, started having the same symptoms. I found gas in the oil, changed oil, which turned it to run smoother, but still smoked and died at idle. I found out the clutch fan barely blows. I can't afford to get an actual mechanic involved, but I don't know where to look next.
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I've been chasing this P0171 code for over a year now. STFT is normal plus minus 5 but LTFT won't go below 21.1%. At highway speeds the lowest the LTFT will go is 10-15% then goes back up to 21.1% at idle.
Things I've done:-
- New the air intake gasket to the Orange one
- Cleaned the MAF sensor
- New PCV
- Smoke test reveal nothing (vacuum is at 21-24 in-Hg) (did not smoke test the exhaust yet)
- Changed to used fuel pump. Funny thing here is that now when I shift the car to park the STFT steady increases to 25%. The old fuel pump never done this. But the car feels like it has more power now.
- New gas cap
- Cleaned TB
- Cleaned fuel injectors and flow tested
- New A/F sensor and downstream O2 sensor
All parts were either genuine Toyota parts or OEM Denso. My next course of action is to buy a new Denso fuel pump or replace the ignition coil pack.
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I have a 2003 Toyota Corolla, mileage app. 106,000. Check engine light first came on when driving to destination 40+ miles away (most of my driving is shorter, around-town trips). My mechanic said code is P0420 and so they reset it and said if it comes on again that I need a new cat converter. It did not come on until about 6 weeks later when I was on a longer trip again (had driven about 40-50 miles). Can you tell me if the P0420 code absolutely means that a new cat. conv. is needed or if it could possibly be a sensor or something else hopefully less costly than a new cc?
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Check engine light is driving me crazy, comes and go depending on weather conditions.
When "ON" the code I get is P0441 and P0171. The engine hesitates for a second or two,then stabilizes.
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I have an 05 Toyota corolla, and have the check engine light on, I scanned it at autozone and error code is P0171 - System Too Lean (Bank 1). Which shows following possible causes: Faulty MAF, O2, fuel injectors blockage etc. On recommendation from the guy in autozone, I added fuel additive to clean the fuel line/ injectors. The check engine light went away for 9 months. But it is back on again. Tried putting in fuel additive again but the light remains on.
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I have a used Toyota Corolla 2007 that has engine problems
I bought this for $8000 in Dec 2012 and did not realize the previous owner was using synthetic oil. I used the regular oil and changed every 3 mins. At one point I started seeing a lot of smoke and the oil was burning quickly (like in a month for 300 miles). The oil change guy recommended to use synthetic oil and that should remove all the sludge. It's been a year I am using the synthetic oil and I still have the sludge issues.
I took the car to the mechanic today and he is saying the piston rings could have worn out and asking to rebuild the engine and that would cost $2800 including the taxes. My wife will be using this car to drop and pick up the kids from school. So I don't want to take any risks. Should I go ahead and rebuild the engine?
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While driving my toyota corolla 2006, I smelled a burning smell and saw a small amount of smoke for about 30 seconds coming out right by the windshield wiper, this happened twice within an hour period.What could this be?
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My father gave my daughter his one owner 50k Corolla. The clutch seemed to be slipping so my local gas station mechanic replaced it. She drove and soon felt that the clutch was slipping again. She took it to Toyota dealership. They said the clutch needs replacement. They did the job and now a few days later the clutch feels like it is slipping again. What is the cause?
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My mechanic cannot figure out what's wrong with my car My car is a manual trans 1996 Toyota Corolla with almost 154K miles. I had the oil changed two weeks ago (about 1000 miles with my commute), and at that time, I let my mechanic know that it's been losing oil and so check it over. At that time, he changed the oil, cleaned the engine, and added a dye to the oil to show up any leaks.
I took it in this past Thursday for him to locate the leaking, and the mechanic let me know that 1) It came in mostly dry (no oil), 2) there was no visible leaking except for a seepage around the oil pan, which he says could not account for the loss of 4 quarts of oil in two weeks, and 3) it's not burning it out in the exhaust system.
A bit of the history of the car. I got it when it was at 59K, used, and there were a number of things wrong with it that I didn't discover until later, such as that no maintenance had been done to it at all in the 60K someone else had owned it. It came to me needing a timing belt, brakes, and an engine and radiator flush (the radiator fluid was brown instead of green).
At one point at around 70K, as a stupid teenager, I did let it run dry. The oil light came on, I panicked, shut it off, dumped in two quarts (which brought it to full on the dipstick, which I thought was weird), and took it straight for an oil change, where they told me it was dry, which was odd, because I'd just put 2 quarts in it.
After that, there were no issues until it hit about 120K. At that point, I started smelling burning oil and there was smoke coming from under my hood, so I towed it to my mechanic at the time. He replaced the valve cover gasket, the rear main seal, and the head gasket (with engine block machining and all). That more or less cleared the problem up, but then I took it across the country on a 3K road trip, and it ended up accidentally running dry again. Oil light came on, I shut it off, dumped in oil, took it for a lube job.
Since that time, it's been occasionally throwing me an oil light when I go downhill (I figure that this is because it's low but not out, and the change in pitch reduces the pressure?). Each time it does this, I've shut it off, coasted to a stop, dumped in 2 quarts (which brings it to full on the stick), and gone on, berating myself. These times have become more frequent, however, even though I now check the oil regularly.
So before I endure the deserved lectures about being dumb, yes, I blame myself, but regardless of my lazy maintenance, it's becoming ridiculous. My car is now finding a way to lose a gallon of oil over the course of 1000 miles, with no discernible leak or consumption.
Also, why my oil light comes on when it's only 2 quarts down on the stick sometimes, and then sometimes goes almost dry without throwing the oil light? I just got it back with the oil topped up, more dye in the engine, and instead of going for 2 weeks, I'm going for 1 week to see if maybe he can catch it in the act of learning this magic trick of vanishing oil.
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My 2007 Outback has had an off-idle stumble since I bought it a year ago. Otherwise runs well and uses less gas than the 2000 Forester it replaced. I've had a smoke test done, cleaned the throttle body, replaced front oxy sensor, and used a variety of gas treatments. I don't trust the local Subaru dealer to work on my car and my local garage has run out of ideas, but suggested MAF sensor may work. Some days it runs better than others. Occasionally I'll see a check engine light P0171 (lean) or P0420 (cat) but it will go weeks between setting those.
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Just bough a new (to me) Touareg yesterday...2008, 75k miles, good service history. Drove home from the dealer no problems. Driving that same night (last night) the CEL comes on. Ok, I've had VWs before, CELs don't really make me panic.
Get home and scan the car and it comes back with P0327 (knock sensor 1 circuit low) and P0441 (evaporative emissions system incorrect purge flow).
I have a feeling it's got less than premium gas in it....I'm gonna throw some octane booster in the remaining 1/2 tank and see what happens. Anything else I should do?
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I have a 2000 Toyota Celica GT with the stock 1ZZFE engine. I have had trouble with it ever since I got it. It burns a lot of oil. I was told that the seals were corroded and that thicker oil might work. I had to put a gallon of oil about every two weeks. It got so bad that I went from running 5W-30 to 10W-40. On my way home last night, it died on me at 197K. It was towed to my mechanic and come to find out, my engine is blown.
I am in the process of looking for a new motor. I realize that the 1ZZFE has oil problems, but have they been resolved is my question. I don't want to buy a motor that is going to have the same problem. And in the process of my engine being blown, could that have damaged anything else under my hood?
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I recently picked up a 2001 Prius to learn more about it. I've been trying to resolve the following codes: p0440, p0441, p0446. I used a new OEM gas cap & did a smoke test and smoke is coming out of the perimeter of the filler mouth and what seems to be a plastic ring with slots around the mouth.
My question is this:
1. Is this normal?
2. Does this indicate that the filler neck is bad?
3. Does this indicate that the charcoal canister is bad?
4. A bad VSV by charcoal canister?
5. Is it something else?
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Car - 2004 Accent auto.- 1.6l - 97K miles
After battling a few months to get my check engine light - fault code P0304 to go off I finally remedied the problem with 3 bottles/fill ups of STP Gas treatment. This was about 1500miles ago. I go to DMV Inspection station and sat for an hour then wait anther 20minutes for the test to end and was given the big fat rejection sticker, she failed because the check engine light came on with fault codes P0304 & P0441.
Now what the heck happened here? Just bad luck and coincidence or did their test set it off? Anyway the P0441 code is new and researched it is the Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Valve. Okay where is it, the HMA manual is not specific? In relation to the intake manifold where is it? Easy fix? And will this solve my P0304 code?
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