My 2000 corolla has about 180,000 miles and loses power when I put it in gear. But the engine revs just fine when it is in neutral or park. What could be wrong?
View 4 RepliesThe problem began a year ago when the car would randomly lose power while hubby was driving it, and then regain power almost immediately and continue to move forward. Weird. Fast forward a year and the problem is happening more frequently. Couple that with the car taking a lonnnnng time to start up in the morning. One day, it ceases to start altogether. Had a mechanic friend of ours look at it and tell us we need a new fuel pump. Okay, no problem. We paid him for the pump and he installed it. Before I could dance a victory dance, though, as hubby turned the key....the car still won't start. Mechanic buddy takes another look at the car and said the ECM is cracked and needs replacement. Looked it up online and ECM is covered under safety recall. Had car towed to the dealership, waited 2 weeks on ECM replacement, dealer called us up to let us know that....the car still won't start, and looks like we need a new fuel pump.
Mechanic friend took another look at it and said it looks like a bad connection between the pump and made an adjustment to it. The car works! Sort of. Car starts acting funny again. We're driving along and the car is losing/gaining/losing/gaining power, tachometer goes up and down, we hear a funny clicking coming from the dash area every time the car loses power. Last night, the car just refused to start. This morning, it started. After several attempts. Made that fun "verr-verr-verr-verr-verr-verr" sound without the "-rooom" at the end. Since my knowledge of fuel pumps and their casings, ECMs, and the like are limited to this situation, I'd love to know what's REALLY going on with the car. I have a suspicion that it goes beyond the fuel pump situation, but mechanic friend thinks it is the casing or something like that.
My '93 Toyota Corolla recently had dash lights come on when I applied the brakes - after parking, gear shift placed in 'park', and ignition turned off. I have never noticed this before (btw, have new battery installed within past two weeks). Is this an indicator of anything I should pay attention to? It did this about a week and now has stopped.
View 7 RepliesThe car has gradually lost power over time, first it would take time to get up to speed and now it will idle but as soon as you put it in gear you have to push the gas pedal all the way to the floor just to go 2 miles per hr... I changed the fuel pump and filter, gave it a tune up with new plugs, wires, cap, rotor...bypassed the catalytic converter...it has a carburetor on it ...at a loss
View 7 RepliesMy car is a 1998 Honda Civic DX hatchback 5 speed manual. About 180,000+ miles. For a while now the car seems to have a problem with power under load. If I am on an incline the engine will start making a metallic gurgling noise as I push on the gas. It increases as I give it more gas, or the hill gets steeper; at which point the car usually begins to slow down depending on my speed. It is most noticeable when I shift into a higher gear and then my speed drops into the range where I could downshift. It also happens often however at 60 mph+. On inclines at that speed, the car will gradually lose speed down into the 50's if the hill is long enough/steep enough even with the gas pedal floored. I'll need to shift into fourth to keep at 50 mph until I'm over the hill.
I've been told by a few friends/mechanics that it may be the catalytic convertor. Hard to test it or just weld on a new one though since the cat is integrated into the manifold, etc. So I took it to a trusted mechanic who did a bunch of work. He said it was only firing on three cylinders instead of four due to carbon tracking, but wasn't concerned with the cat. He did a tune-up and replaced the distributor cap and rotor, spark plugs and wires, valve cover and gasket (leaking), air filter and fuel filter, and cleaned the throttle body. Also replaced both rear strut assemblies.
Until now there had been NO check engine light signaling a problem. I got the car back and it felt good at first, but still seemed to make the noise albeit quieter. The power was better, but only for maybe a couple days. The engine again started making the noise more often and losing power in the same ways. Also, the check engine light came on a few days later. Blinking the first time, then it would come on for a couple of days, then off for a couple, etc. Now it has come on and stayed on constantly for a couple of weeks. I had the engine codes read and got three codes:
P1456- the usual emission control system leak... fuel cap possibility, etc. I'm guessing it isn't this for the most part...
P0141- "secondary HO2s12 (Heated oxygen sensor- bank 1, sensor 2) circuit heater malfunction.
and the strangest of all since I'd expect it to be fixed...
P0301- "cylinder number 1 misfire detected" ...
So it could be something else with the cylinders going on, O2 sensor having to do with cat. stuff, etc.? I also will be due for a timing belt change soon I believe, but that would not be causing any of this I don't think. I'll be bringing it back to the mechanic to have a look again, but haven't had the time yet.
I have a 2000 toyota corolla, with 1.8 16 valve. 105,000 miles, manual trans.. Just bought this veh. says misfire cylinder 4. So here is what I have done.
I started trouble shooting. swapping coils from cylinder 4 to other cylinders to see if the code follows after clearing it. No, stayed at 4..
So I moved on to the fuel injector. I did the same thing to see if it followed.. no stayed at cylinder 4. I changed the plugs, stilll misfire..
I did a compression check, I have 170 on 1,2,3, and on cylinder 4 I have 0. Yep, none...
I have some black smoke when the car is under load, as in acceleration, shaking and constant miss. lack of power... Trying to determine whether it is the rings or valves or what.. I took valve cover off and checked for broken spring, and they all seem ok. No oil in my coolant or vise versa.
I have a 2000 Toyota Corolla LE that ran very well until about a month ago. It has about 146,000 miles on it. A month ago it started hesitating from a standstill and the engine ran extremely roughly when trying to move the car. But when I put it in low gear it did much better, although not great! When in Drive it barely moved the car at all and would frequently stop running completely.
When I took it to an auto parts store they hooked it up to their computer and it read out that I needed either spark pugs, spark plug wires, or a new coil. I have replaced the plugs, but that made little difference. I then took it to another auto repair place that told me that it was either a problems with valves, or a 'problems in the lower engine'. I don't know what that latter problems means but either way it sounds like it will be very expensive to fix.
I have an 05 corolla XRS. I just had a sport clutch put in about 1 year ago. Whenever I shift into 4th gear and accelerate, the RPMs drop about 500 and I lose power for about 3 seconds before it starts going back up. Other gears are acting normal. Best part is that I let my friend drive the car earlier and since he did it's been doing this.
View 7 Replies2011 6.7 with 3.55 gearing. Just got the truck. And it seems when its cold the truck will rev high in 3rd gear and then sort of fall into 4th gear sort of losing power for a split second. If I gas it hard, its not as bad. Usually only happens like I said when its cold. Check the trans fluid its full and looks clean. My guess is some sort of sensor or the computer???
View 7 RepliesI have a 1986 Toyota pickup. It's small 2 wheel drive with a stick shift. 6 weeks ago, it started lugging very slightly on hills after I had first started the car (only in the first 5 minutes of driving). Then that stopped, and now it loses power on hills so that I have to keep shifting down and going slower until I'm chugging uphill in 2nd gear at 30 mph. It only happens on long hills with a sustained uphill; smaller ones it keeps speed and power fine.
View 2 RepliesI have had this happen three times in the last two months. I was not hard accelerating, just cruising on the fwy at about 70mph in sixth all three times. Then for no reason, my rpms drop, no check eng light, no power for about 10secs and then, back to normal. I have had the codes checked twice, nothing recorded...
2004.5 gli .... 65k
I was driving yesterday and my Toyota pickup started losing power. If I let off the gas at a stop it would rapidly die. I managed to get it home but had to floor it just to get it going in 1st and 2nd gear, and if it was in neutral it would die without giving it a lot of gas. The only way it will start is if I give it a lot of gas while turning the ignition, and have to keep the RPM's up to keep it running. Looked under the hood while it was running and when I let off the throttle the entire motor would shake violently. Cant tell if it's just not getting fuel correctly or if it blew a head gasket maybe. Seems like it might only be firing on 2 or 3 cylinders.
View 3 RepliesMy old 1996 Camry with 2200 cc 4 cylinder engine, frequently keeps losing power to the spark plugs. I have changed the fuel filter and the ignition coil. That did not work. I also noticed that the car was starting when I unplug and replug the primary wire plug to the ignition coil. So I have replaced the primary power plug with a six inch pigtail and a used plug purchased from a salvage yard. This is not working either. The Toyota dealer near my house want to replace the igniter and the Engine Control Module just to be sure that these are not the sources of problem. The dealer did not test these parts. So I refused to replace the parts without a proper test. I would like to test these parts. Is there a test available for the igniter and ECM that could be performed. I have access to a lot of tools. I need a schematic and/or test to test these components.
View 18 RepliesI have a 2001 Toyota corolla with 150k. If I rev the engine with the car in neutral and my foot off the clutch, it starts to shake at about 2-2.1k rpm. It will also start to shake at 2.5-2.9k rpm when the car is in gear (I can feel it in any gear but it's most noticeable in 5th gear on the freeway).
I just replaced the spark plugs (I know, should have done that a while ago...) but it still has the same vibration. I'll be doing a compression test later today, but I did take a few minutes to check out the motor while the hood was up. I set up a camera and recorded the car from start up and hit 2.1k rpm a few times. The vibration isn't visible but the engine jumped a little right at start up.
Are the motor mounts bad? I've had that same vibration but a lot less intense since I've had the car, but it recently got a little worse.
I uploaded the video to youtube. Search "corollaprincess361"
I had to really hard brake today over a very very short distance...the tires locked and the car slid for about 5 feet. Car is 2000 corolla, 4-spd auto.
As soon as I came to a full stop, I notice the engine was still "spinning" like it was in second gear...because the RPM was around 1000rpm (idle is 650). As soon as I started moving, there was a slight clunk noise (sounded like it came from CV half axle/transmission).
Although rare, This also happened a couple of times before when hard braking. It downshifts to 2.. idles around 1000rpm for a couple of seconds... and then there is a "slight" clunk noise.
Other than this, the transmission/engine has been very smooth and the car has no problems.
OK, my daughter bought a clunker. Engine compression tested good, and transmission shifted fine so I proceeded to fix the car. Everything went fine until I got to the passenger side axle. I've always reused the inboard "tulip", and have never pulled one. Until today. The boot on the remanufactured shaft would not fit over the old tulip. I rented a slide hammer with a cv remover attachment and removed the old tulip. I then installed the new shaft, using a hammer on the end of the shaft to reseat the new shaft in the transmission. I didn't hit it hard. Now the car makes a horrible groaning sound when I put it in reverse. When I shift back to park, it sounds like a gear grinding. Also, the car rolls when its in park as if it was in neutral. I'm totally stumped as to what I did wrong. Did I destroy the transmission???
View 19 RepliesI hear a loud Rattling noise from back of 09 Corolla,when I put it in gear- just came out of nowhere...
View 13 RepliesI bought 2008 Corolla S 5 speed with 62K miles. Now have 135K miles. When shifting up into 3rd gear, a grinding occurs intermittently, more often as miles accumulate. I try to make sure clutch pedal is fully depressed. No problems occur with other forward gears, up or down. What the problem might be and/or what can be done to fix? This is the sixth car I have owned with manual transmission. Never a problem like this!
View 5 RepliesI have a 1992 Toyota Camry. It had been burning gas, losing powere, white smoke smoking excessively through the tailpipe, and idling extremely rough, sometimes to the point of dying. It ran ok at highway speeds, but terrible everywhere else. We figured that it was getting moisture into the engine. We essentially did an upper engine overhaul, replacing gaskets and parts as necessary. It ran fine after this, and then three weeks later, started having the same symptoms. I found gas in the oil, changed oil, which turned it to run smoother, but still smoked and died at idle. I found out the clutch fan barely blows. I can't afford to get an actual mechanic involved, but I don't know where to look next.
View 5 RepliesI only hear it in gear under load so I can't stick my head under the hood to pin point it. I dont see any black streaks and I replaced the EGR tube. Is it commonly just the gasket or do the manifolds crack? If they crack where?
View 11 RepliesFiguring out automatic shifter problem, the car only has 56k miles & it has problem (since 30k miles) shifting out of Park or stuck in Park, often I had to use the mechanical override to release it so I can put it in Neutral to start the engine. When placed in Drive, it kind of "floats," does not have the normal confident in-the-gear feel & sometimes it slips out of Drive to Neutral with the slightest bump of the gear shifter when driving or when stopped. When I shift, it does not have a free easy movement, it feels like the cable is restricted by corrosion or dirt, but everything looked good & seem shielded. Took it to a shop & they suggested that I just drive it... I've since put over 20k miles & its getting worse at finding Neutral to start the car with.
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