My 1996 Toyota Corolla has started sputtering (choking?) out when I accelerate quickly (like getting on the highway) or when I get up to about 70 mph. Is this a symptom of a clogged fuel filter or a bad fuel pump? If so, is there a way to tell which it is before taking it to the mechanic? Or could it be something else?
View 11 Replies1990 Corolla 4AFE - 4cyl , auto, running well...without prior symptoms, now starts (4-5 times) and idles roughly (no moisture in the air) ....seems to me to be fuel..... I know it could be many things - but i have to travel to the car ( not much time last night) .....It doesn't rev clean, sounds choking and very slow especially in drive/rev....not as sharp misses. Start with the fuel filter ? Can the fuel pump go quickly ?or does it go slowly. injectors? I'll check for coil arcing tonight, and the strength of the exhaust (Cat is 23 yrs old.....Vinny?) IAC? ..... Dist cap, wires and plugs are good...
View 4 RepliesI have a used Toyota Corolla 2007 that has engine problems
I bought this for $8000 in Dec 2012 and did not realize the previous owner was using synthetic oil. I used the regular oil and changed every 3 mins. At one point I started seeing a lot of smoke and the oil was burning quickly (like in a month for 300 miles). The oil change guy recommended to use synthetic oil and that should remove all the sludge. It's been a year I am using the synthetic oil and I still have the sludge issues.
I took the car to the mechanic today and he is saying the piston rings could have worn out and asking to rebuild the engine and that would cost $2800 including the taxes. My wife will be using this car to drop and pick up the kids from school. So I don't want to take any risks. Should I go ahead and rebuild the engine?
I have a 2000 Corolla with about 147,000 miles. At idle it runs very rough, but can accelerate up to about 50 mph. Then it starts to cough and wheeze and run roughly again and won't accelerate any further. It feels like the engine will shake itself off its mounts, so I slow down and stay under 50 mph. I replaced spark plugs and a repair place hooked it up to a computer. They then told me it needed about 1800 dollars worth of repairs to replace the valve cam I think they said. I'm skeptical and wonder if it just needs a tune up, . It has not had one since I bought it at 128,000 miles, and II don't know how long it had been prior to that.
View 5 RepliesI have had my Corolla LE since October 2011, there has been no maintenance issues whatsoever with it, and it has 65K miles on it. Up until September it was a solid, quiet ride, and with the passing two months, what started to be a quiet vibration, has grown louder and louder. At first I thought it was something inside one of my storage compartments rattling, and then I thought it was the blower, only noticing the sound when I turned on the heat. Now, it makes noise when I accelerate, decelerate, at a complete stop (with the car still on). I read another post about it might be the heat shield, and I was convinced previous to reading that that it was something exhaust-related. But, I'm not sure. This noise has gotten louder, isn't consistent with any function of the car, it appears to be random, but the noise is still the same, the quick "drr, drr, drr" noise, truly a rapid gunfire sound.
View 5 RepliesI have an 05 corolla XRS. I just had a sport clutch put in about 1 year ago. Whenever I shift into 4th gear and accelerate, the RPMs drop about 500 and I lose power for about 3 seconds before it starts going back up. Other gears are acting normal. Best part is that I let my friend drive the car earlier and since he did it's been doing this.
View 7 RepliesSo, I don't know if any of these problems are related but a few months ago, I accidentally put diesel fuel in my car. We got it flushed out (used some fuel injector cleaner and filled the tank up to dilute what fuel was left after i siphoned it) and my car was doing fine. Then my car started running really shitty, just taking forever to accelerate, revving really hard when I gassed, but not going fast at all, so we changed the spark plugs, oil, and transmission fluid and now it drives forward just fine, but will not reverse. all it does is move forward a bit then stop. It will drive in neutral up to 20-25 mph. What might be wrong??
View 3 RepliesI have found that when I accelerate quickly, while entering the expressway or getting around a semi for example, a burning smell enters the car. I imagine it's oil but uncertain. The smell occurs shortly after the quick acceleration and it doesn't occur consistently.
View 14 RepliesWhen I first leased my 2010 Prius back in June of 2010, I was able to use the EV mode up to 25 miles an hour. Once it hit 26 or if I were to accelerate to quickly, it would disengage.
Now, actually some months back, I've tried using EV mode but it always disengages after 10mph no matter what I do. I've talked to the service dept at my local Toyota dealership but they have no answers for it.
I have 3 sound bytes/videos. Probably best to listen with headphones or decent speakers to get the full effect. The issue has gotten worse. Seems to be worse especially in the a.m. when cold.
When I accelerate fairly quickly, not wide open, there is a weird noise of whooshing air, his or escaping air etc. It could be described as some type of whirring noise too.
I can let off the throttle and push slowly into it and it goes again. Only happens under a decent amount of engine load. Doesn't seem to matter what gear as long as it is under the same type of engine load.
It is coming from the passenger side engine bay as far as I can tell since I'm driving.
Here are the links: YouTube ....
My 2004 Touareg V10 TDI drives like something's not just quite right, although hard for me to put my finger on. Essentially it feels sluggish, like it doesn't downshift to accelerate as quickly as it should, and like the automatic shifting is slightly jerky. This stuff is all even more noticeable at slower speeds and going up hill, but I think it's true even on city streets.
It's happened a few times, going up a fairly steep hill, that it seems to lose power and I can't get it over 20 or 25 mph even flooring it. Then when I turn the vehicle off and then back on, it can go more or less like normal again. Still, "normal" feels to me like something less than it used to be. I've recently changed the oil and all the filters (air, oil, fuel).
The dealer's service department says they can't find anything and the computer is not giving any error codes, but I know that it's not driving right.
My Hyundai Sonata has been the dealer twice so far and the problem hasn't been fixed yet. Once in a while when I accelerate quickly the check engine light comes on and the esc light comes on and the car goes into a limp power mode or fail safe mode and the engine won't rev above 2000 rpm until I turn the car off and back on again.
Both times I have had the car to the dealer the Scan Code "P2138 Throttle Position Sense P2106 Elect Control forced limit power" Were found. They cleared the code drove car and it did not return.
This has now happened about 5 times, in the last year and each time after switching off the car it runs fine, and after about 5 starts the check engine light goes off.
Well this just happened again yesterday (just as I was about to blow off some kid in a Ford Taurus from a stop light) So I called my dealer (who has been very good thus far with my car) and told them about the problem happening again and that this time I want this sensor replaced, and not having the code cleared.
Transmission Issue I am having with my Mk6 GTI DSG. When the car comes to a complete stop and you need to accelerate quickly to get on to incoming traffic, for example, the car takes a couple of seconds to engage. This behavior is becoming very annoying! I've been looking around about this issue. Some say that they have had a problem with the DSG Valve Body (Mechatronics Unit) and others say it might be the DSG Break Sensor. I am no expert but I would presume the Sensor Would be cheaper than the Valve Body. I would like to try and replace the sensor first and then see if I need to replace the Valve Body.
View 8 RepliesMy 2006 Volvo S60 turbo has about 116K miles and noticed a couple times when I punch the gas to accelerate quickly (like to pass someone on the interstate) that it will make this quick jerky thing (as though I ran over some rumble strips). I normally drive like a grandma so this has only happened a couple times. Today I was on the interstate and decided to test this out and sure enough it would quickly bump-bump-bump before the gas/acceleration kicked in. It never stalled, but now I am paranoid.
Also, it occasionally "feels" like it takes the car longer than normal to start. There is no pattern to this. It will happen first thing in the morning, but I have noticed it more often when I stop to drop my son off and get back in the car. I will crank the key and the RPM dial will shoot up twice really quickly and then be normal.
Maybe you should also know that when I first got the car, I filled it up with gas and started driving and it died. We checked the fuses and the fuel pump fuse had burned out so we changed it and all was right again.
I bought this as a high mileage car (60K) in 2007 and have not done much to it since (air filter, oil, tires, brakes). Yes, that means I have not gotten my transmission fluid changed or any recommended dealer maintenance.
My f-150 has an intermittent rough idle and consistently runs rough when you accelerate quickly. Vehicle is not throwing any codes?
View 3 RepliesMy standard 2002 accent is undriveable and at the mechanic right now (100,000km). For the past few weeks the car has driven very jerky. While in first and second gears if i accelerate too quickly it just jerks/slips and has very little power.
Yesterday the check engine light came on and i got codes P0300, P0302, P0303...misfire in cylinders 2 and 3. Checked this forum and decided to buy new spark plugs (last replaced plugs and wires 1.5 years ago). Got into the car and could go more than a block because it was jerking and then kept stalling. Replaced the sparkplugs and nothing changed. Had it towed to the mechanic...after a few hours he said he had cleaned the exhaust manifold and it was driving fine. I picked it up and a block away it stalled again.
The mechanic now says 3 of my fuel injectors need to be replaced and the fourth will probably go soon and it will be about $700 to fix. Does this sound right for these codes?
I called hyundai parts and they told me each injector is $236...he also told me he doubted they had to be replaced cause he has never seen an accent have fuel injectors replaced and also they rarely sell these injectors, he said it was probably something electrical.
I have found 4 injectors on ebay for $200 but is this really the problem? The mechanic says it is 100% the problem. But from reading the forum I dont think so.
Also wanted to add that i often noticed the smell of burning plastic. Smoke seems to be coming from spark plug area when i notice the smell but nothing looks burnt/melted.
I drive a 2006 F-150. I'm new to the forum and already found some good info on the annoying tick coming from my 5.4.
I have recently purchased a ski boat and lately when towing my boat and coming to a stop I feel as light movement coming from the rear of the truck that feels like something slides forward slightly. When I accelerate "it" slides back and if I accelerate quickly, "it" makes a loud clank noise.
I have ruled out hitch, receiver, ball, anything from the boat/trailer etc... It is coming from the transfer case/ spare tire area under the truck and it only appears to do it (or to where it is noticeable) while towing the boat.
So about 3-4 times per day, my truck will accelerate very quickly with the slightest touch of the gas pedal, then followed by the service engine soon light...I checked for any codes to see what I may need to fix, but no codes are found.
What this could be? I am also having issues to where I a few times per day I have to put my truck in neutral to get it to start instead of in park...could the two be related?
I am very happy with my 2010 corolla, except for the annoying beeping. I live in a very quiet townhouse row and the cars are parked right in front of the houses. So, when I get up in the morning to get in the car, it beeps when I unlock it and on good weather days when the windows are open, there are at least 20 units that can hear it. It is very embarrassing. What is worse, randomly in the middle of the night, at 230 or 3am, it will beep five times quickly. My neighbors want to kill me! The engine light has been on for a few weeks because I am due for an oil change. Could it be related to that? And how do I turn this thing off?
View 4 RepliesAt about 25,000 miles I had one of my rear brake pads sticking so had to change the rear brakes. The non-stuck pads on the other side looked decent still, so I'm assuming I'd have gotten quite a few more miles out of them if the one hadn't been sticking. Changed the front pads at about the same time, although they were in pretty good shape still (but it was taken apart already, so did them while it was apart and the chance was there). At about 50,000 miles later the rear pads are again unevenly (and I feel perhaps prematurely?) worn, and the fronts look fine. Is it something with the screw-type e-brake mechanism on the rear disc brake that lends itself to sticking? Or am I just especially unfortunate?
View 10 RepliesI was driving and went to accelerate quickly and had no power, checked the boost gauge and it had very low boost. Continued like this the rest of the drive, all gauges normal, no check engine light, not towing or hot. Got home then next time out it was back to normal.
Someting to be concerned about? Or just a computer hiccup. Truck is '13 with 66k.