Toyota - Corolla :: Check Engine Light Stays On - Charcoal Canister?
Aug 17, 2011
1998 Corolla LD ... Diagnostic tests show that my check engine light stays on due to a charcoal canister. Is this an expensive repair?
View 7 Replies1998 Corolla LD ... Diagnostic tests show that my check engine light stays on due to a charcoal canister. Is this an expensive repair?
View 7 RepliesThe "Check Engine Light" is on. When I brought it in for the annual inspection (NY), the diagnosis was "lean fuel mixture". The fuel filter was replaced (the car has over 110,000 miles on it), and some adjustments were made in the computer, or the sensors (I don't remember which). It was found that one adjustment was effective at low speeds, and the other one was necessary for 2000 RPM. A valve cover gasket was replaced because of an oil leak, but I don't see how this could have contributed to the problem. I drove it for about 10 miles and the light went on again. What the cause might be?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2004 Camry that has had ongoing issues with the Charcoal Canister over the past 3 years. The first time we came across this issue the car threw codes that indicated the Charcoal Canister had to be replaced. Our mechanic said it had to be done and there were no after market parts for this canister. We paid the $800 for parts and labour and had it replaced. Then 13 months later the car began throwing codes again. I had the car looked at again I was told the Canister would need to be replaced... They felt it was likely caused from the intake filter housing cracking. Each time our car does this the codes can be cleared for a bit but the car takes forever to fill and slowly over time you can no longer fill the car as there is so much pressure. This time I bought a used part and replaced the canister. This has happened again..
So we have now replaced this filter 3 times in three years. Can I ask how this canister continues to get gummed up? We live on dusty roads in the country but none of my other Toyota's have had any issues with this. How these canisters are getting gummed up? Is there any way for me to change this Canister myself if I buy them used? I saw in a video on this forum where the user shows putting the car up on a hoist and lowering the exhaust to get to the canister. Do you have to have a hoist? I am wondering if I can achieve this with the car on a blocks? My original mechanic said the rear suspension needs to be taken apart to access the canister? Can I ask where the dust is being drawn from to clock this filter to begin with? I have also been told you can try blowing out the lines? How to attempt this?
This is a California car that won't pass smog tests with a lit check engine light. I don't know the specific code, but the description is that the torque converter is staying in the "off" position. Apparently the lock up torque converter is part of the emissions system in that if the torque converter does not lock up then the rpm's are higher and that produces more pollutants.
1st step was to flush out the transmission and the flush made sure all the fluid in the torque converter was removed and replaced. After that was done the trans fluid has stayed nice and clean and pink for about 400 miles. The CEL was turned off after this service but came back on in a few days at about 200 miles. Next, the solenoid that activates the torque converter was replaced. The CEL was turned off again, an this time the CEL came back on after a hour of driving on local errands.
Me and my generally good mechanic are hung up now. We were betting the solenoid change out would solve the problem. It seems that the torque converter is in fact operating properly. The tranny shifts smoothly and the rpm's drop at the proper times indicating the torque converter is locking up.
At a service station in NJ, my gas cap flew into the wind and the attendant replaced it. My check engine light came on a day after getting gas (not in NJ) so I took it in to my garage. Ends up that the (new) gas cap has a crack and a new one is getting ordered. Now, whenever I am filling up the gas tank, it keeps shutting itself off (very frequently . . . like every 1/2 gallon or so). This happened when the check engine light was on and after it was initially turned off by the mechanic. I asked a mechanic at the garage because it keeps happening and I can't fill the car fully and he said it happens with some cars and you have to hold it a certain way or something. This can't be fixed and I'll just have to get used to it until I get a new car. My question -- how could this have just started happening? Its a 2002 Corolla and I've had it for years without problems. Is it possible that when I get a new gas cap and the computer gets re-started, it will fix itself?
View 6 RepliesI have a Toyota Corolla 96. The check light is on. I took it to AutoZone and the guy told me everything is Ok. I looked the oil level this morning and it was low. The temperature sensor is normal and the car runs fine. My car experience is almost zero....
View 13 RepliesMy girlfriend's 2001 Toyota Corolla has a recurrent Check Engine light problem. It has 144,000 miles on it. For the last few years, we have been unable to keep the light turned off. We have replaced the oxygen sensors and cleaned the MAF sensor. Our mechanic can't find the problem.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 Toyota Corolla.
Check engine light was on so I took the car to Midas they pulled a code (133) and they said its Oxygen Sensor is not working. I took the car to Auto Zone for second opinion, Auto zone confirmed that Oxygen Sensor might be having problem. Then I inquire in couple of places for the price to fix O2 sensor, all most all places I got the same quote to fix it.And after a day or so check engine light went off. Check engine light was on for a day or so.
Now I am confused, is there a problem with Oxygen sensors? Should I still go ahead and fix these sensor or should I wait till Check engine light comes back again?
I just took the car to the dealer, for a recurring Check Engine light, and after changing the gas cover 2 months ago, now they tell me that it needs to replace the Charcoal Canister pump . I have a 2008 Prius, bought used 18 months ago, with approx. 70k miles
View 4 RepliesFor a few months, I have been getting check engine lights on my Toyota Corolla 2002. The check engine light often goes away by itself.
I took my car to a mechanic with a decent reputation after a couple weeks of the problem. He thought he fixed it and gave the car back to me. The check engine light kept coming back on, and I kept going back. The mechanic topped off the coolant, replaced certain hoses, host clamps, sensors and other parts (like the solenoid canister). After the fifth trip back (and eight weeks of time), he refunded my money.
The check engine light comes on and goes off. Right now with no check engine light on, I get codes P0125 and PO441 PD.
What will happen if I keep ignoring these check engine lights or the codes that persist when the check engine light is not on? I was thinking of going to another mechanic. I think I want to wait for a few more weeks to see if I notice a pattern. I do not drive that many miles each day (much less than average).
I have a 2002 Toyota Corolla CE with about 115,000 miles.While I was traveling on the highway my car started shaking, losing power, and the check engine light started flashing. I drove a mile or two to a rest area because I didn't want to pull over on the highway. I had it towed home. It starts and idles, but I'm afraid to get it out on the road.
View 15 RepliesHad the oil changed today; before doing so, I saw that the check engine light had come on. Have been told by 3 professional car maintenance people that there is no connection between needing oil / oil change and check engine, that it would have been the check maintenance light.
Will take it in for diagnostic test by dealer. Also, was told by the oil change guy that he heard pinging which could mean that the car needs to have the valves adjusted, and that the check engine light is due to needing something or other with the gas tank filter which could have a leak/crack, etc.
The check-engine light on my 2006 Toyota Corolla came on a couple of weeks ago after I started the car on a 7-degree F morning. Code was P-0171. Mechanic cleaned the MAF and the light went off. Light stayed off 'til I started the car on another 7-degree F morning. Mechanic said that the MAF didn't look dirty, and the readings didn't change after cleaning. No vacuum leaks. O2 sensors responding normally. What's going on? I travel a lot in this car, so I don't want to damage the car by ignoring the check-engine light.
View 1 RepliesI drive a 1999 Subaru Legacy Outback.I had a cracked evap canister, so I went to the junkyard and grabbed another. I installed it, but had problems filling the gas tank. It would fill a few seconds, then shut off. So, I got home, pulled the evap canister, and blew through each of the three ports. Two of them had air flow in and out to each other, the third was blocked. Checking the ops diagram, looks like that port runs to the intake manifold. Should it be blocked (has a check valve or something), or should it have airflow?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 Ford Excursion 6.8L V10. It runs like a champ, gets really good mileage for what it is, but there a strong fuel vapor smell coming from the charcoal vapor canister under the hood. You can smell it outside the truck and the smell gets pulled in through the vents - have to use Max AC recirc.
After checking and testing, I can confirm that the fuel vapor smell is coming from the charcoal canister and not anywhere else on the engine. The smell gets worse as the tank drains: Full Tank - Almost No Smell; Half Tank - Strong Smell; 1/4 Tank - Very Strong Smell.
Here is all that we have tried.-Replaced Fuel Cap (Genuine Ford)-Visually inspected the Evap Lines - Look Good-Visually inspected Fuel Line and Fuel Filter - Look Good-Checked the Fuel System for Leaks - None-Pressure Tested the Fuel System - No Leaks-Ran Multiple Smoke Tests on Evap System - No Leaks-Checked the Computer for Codes - No Codes-Replaced the Charcoal Vapor Canister (Genuine Ford)
We are totally stumped. I searched all the forums and can find issues with plugs, fuel injector o-rings, and leaks, but this has all be checked.
About two weeks ago, while driving on a hot, humid summer night, the check engine light in my 1998 Toyota Corolla came on. The following day, I took it into my mechanic, who plugged it in and came up with the code P0441 (Purge flow fault). He told me it was likely related to the fuel vapor canister, though I see this can also have to do with vacuum lines for the purge valve and canister or a bad purge valve itself. My gas cap was, and had been, tight, so it wasn't something as simple as that.
Reluctant to deal with this immediately, I went back to driving it, and lo and behold - the light went off after several days! Unfortunately, the light came BACK ON after several more. And most recently (a few days after coming on again), the light has now gone off!
Both times the light has gone off, the weather has been rather wet, but otherwise, there doesn't seem to be a clear pattern. What this on again off again pattern might say about the problem?
I have a check engine light on the car and in the past it has been bad gas or a vacuum leak. Dealer says on toyota that is not possible.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 Toyota Corolla- the CEL has been on for months- the code is for small evap leakI have tried cleaning rust from filler neck at gas cap- no change. I have had a smoke test done with no leak found.
View 5 RepliesAn MIL light came on the dash the other week while driving. Dealer cleared the error code but next morning it returned. Car is now in the shop to have the flapper motor and canister can replaced. Get it back tomorrow, Got '08 Jetta 2.5 as a loaner. I will run out of warranty in another couple of weeks(48100 mi. on it now).
View 10 RepliesI have a 2004 Corolla with a Check Engine light on. The Toyota dealer diagnosed this as: "Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 1 - slow to respond".
The diagnostic code is PO133. Elsewhere, I find that this code indicates:
The oxygen sensor is faulty.
The wiring to the sensor is broken / frayed.
There is an exhaust leak
Haven't noticed exhaust leakage, and I doubt the wiring is faulty.
1) Where is sensor 1?
2) Do I really need a new sensor, or can I clean the old one?
My 1998 Toyota Corolla has 180 K miles. Two days ago I was putting the pedal down to get to work on time and it bucked, began chugging like a motorcycle and the check engine light (which was already on because of an emissions issue) began to flash. A mechanic looked at it and saw that cylinder 3 wasn't sparking. He changed the plugs and wires but the engine was still chugging, especially when idling. The mechanic decided it was a stuck or burnt valve because he said he could hear/feel a lack of compression in the cylinder. I'm looking for a second opinion on the issue, and a first opinion on the mechanic!
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