I have a 2009 Toyota Corolla with under 90,000 mi. Sometimes while driving, the car will refuse to accelerate and slow down to about 10 mi an hour. The only way to fix it, is to pull over and turn the car off and restart it. It immediately responds and it doesn't happen again. This lack of acceleration usually occurs in the first 5 mi of driving. I have a new battery...
View 16 RepliesI currently own a Toyota Corolla VVTI 1.8 2009 GLI. I have been racing this car here at our auto drome for over a year. Last race it starting giving me real bad issues with shifting on the track. I can be a 5,900 RPM and shift to a higher gear and the car will choke and drown and it takes forever to recognize I'm accelerating. I know this is because of the computer and the electronic accelerator it comes with ( I can't remember it's name in English). My gas pedal is Denso and I understand there is an adaption that can be done to the cable to trick the computer.
View 14 RepliesI recently took my 2010 Corolla CE to my dealership and had some minor work done on the brakes (rust cap cleaned, calipers machined as well)
The new problem now is that I hear a ticking sound while driving as if something is touching.. The Technician at Toyota said there was still 70% on the pads and 80% left on the rear shoes.. Encountered a ticking sound while driving along?
My 2010 Toyota Corolla caught fire IN THE RAIN yesterday ( Jan 9, 2014) while I was driving ..... I was lucky to get out of the car before the fire came in the passenger compartment.... Trying to find out a way to see if this has happened to other Toyotas....
View 14 RepliesEvery time I reach about 64 mph, the car begins to sputter spontaneously. As I give constant gas to keep it at that speed, the car hesitates, as if the gas isn't combusting consistently. This sputter also happens sometimes when I'm simply accelerating for example from a stop sign, however, it is CONSISTENTLY doing it at about 64 mph. I can go faster and the sputtering seems to lessen (at 70+mph, as long as I'm accelerating). Took to mechanic, he couldn't figure it out, although they suggest getting yet another computer.I've replaced:Distributor capDistributorSpark plugsComputer (from ebay, remanufactured)
View 13 RepliesJust as the title says, 214k great shape just wont get going more you mash the less it goes.... fuel pump already replaced, can undo battery and take a while to reset feels to do fine then goes back to bogging down... TPS ? idle air control?
View 3 RepliesThe car had been idling a little rough lately and I'd noticed a drop in MPG. After trying a few easy fixes I finally replaced the O2 sensor a few weeks ago. The idle has leveled out but ever since then I've been getting periodic hesitant-to-non-existent acceleration. Sometimes it works just fine (better than it's been in years, actually) but then sometime it will take forever to accelerate from a stop.
I'll give it some gas and it will just roll forward at barely more than an idle for half-a-block until something kicks in and it levels out around 30mph. This doesn't happen consistently though and I can't see much of a pattern in when it happens or why. It seems to work a little if I ease into the gas very gently, and it is worse when I try to gun it. I was worried it might be the fuel injectors or the ignition coils.
Every so often, my manual transmission Corolla will "overthrottle" during acceleration, especially shifting into 2nd and 3rd gears (and sometimes even 4th), i.e., the engine will race above the usual RPMs associated with each gear, just for a bit. This however, isn't consistent. I still need to check if the engine air filter is dirty, which I suspect could be a part of the issue.
The vehicle has ca. 124,975mi, and only started exhibiting this problem 2-3 months ago, and only in 2nd gear. Again, this issue is very intermittent, and sometimes I can go a week or two without any incidents at all. The regular maintenance (oil changes, cooling system maintenance, etc.) has been faithfully performed according the manufacturer's specifications.
I'm having issues with my 2004 Toyota Corolla with 118K. Every few weeks, the car will go through a phase where it will stall out, run rough and hesitate on acceleration. Oftentimes it is accompanied with the rotten egg smell coming from the catalytic converter. When I decelerate to a stop light, the car will stall. When I start it back up, I have to rev the engine to 2000 rpm in neutral to keep it from re-stalling. Once I get up to about 10-15 mph, the car will jerk and sputter, and at 40mph, the jerking motion gets worse. If the car doesn't stall it'll run rough and have the rotten egg smell. I'm assuming the smell is from unburnt gas.
I find it happens more often when I don't let the car warm up for a few minutes. I've taken it to my mechanic, and i've gone through 2 MAF sensors, cleaned the throttle body. I changed the iridium plugs at 102K and am on top of maintenance with filters, oil and such. Of course when I bring it to the mechanic, the problems don't show up, and we are kinda blind to what could be causing the issue. Also, if I park it for a day or two after the issue occurs, the problems go away. What to look for?
I just got my bc extreme drop kit installed, after taking out struts i imagined my corolla would be lighter and faster cuz the struts weigh way more than the coilovers, but when i drove it for first time after install, i noticed the acceleration is weaker and not as responsive, why this is? is it supposed to be like that, whats happening?
View 5 RepliesJust bought a XLE (currently have had the car for 2 weeks and a total of 275miles) and am experiencing a very strange rattle coming from the engine compartment when accelerating very lightly and engine being fully warm (being ran for atleast 15min). The rattle is coming during 2000-2300rpm. Below and above that range, the problem does not occur. The rattling noise sounds as if some metal is grinding on one another. I understand that the Dual VVT-i is notoriously known for it's noise (ticking/tapping of valves, naturally being a 4cyl, and a small amount of "roar" when applying large amount of throttle) but I think this problem I am exhibiting is by far, not normal.
Symptoms/Conditions:
1. Car must be hot/warm (must be driven for atleast 15 minutes)
2. Must be in a drive or reverse direction. Problem does not occur in park or neutral.
3. You have to be acclerating lightly, the engine rattle occurs from 2000rpm - 2300rpm. It's not a tapping or ticking sound but rather a "buzzing" metal to metal grinding.
4. Sounds like the sound is coming from the intake or exhaust systems and the rpm's is causing a natural vibration frequency that is causing a metal part to vibrate (or resonate). Could explain
5. The car doesn't seem to be power limited or anything abnormal. Drives just fine - just a rattling sound that I hate to believe is normal!
I'm under assumption that this is an engineering design flaw! I would encourage you as Toyota Corolla 2009 owners (1.8L, 4spd autos, manuals) to see if you can replicate this issue. Warm your car up, turn off heat/ac & radio (so you can clearly hear the engine), put it in drive, slowly excelerate, and listen as your rpm's increase (noise will only occur at 2000-2300rpm).
My 2001 Corolla w/80k developing a considerably loud spark knock/engine pinging noise under acceleration. It throws no codes but pings like crazy and it never used to. It's happened gradual over a long period of time. I've cleaned the throttle body and have done all regular tune up items with no improvement. It doesn't ping at all on 93 octane, does some on 89 and terribly so on 87. Why is this? Does the 93 octane just act a a richer mixture of fuel to alleviate the ping? Should this sign point me in the direction that it's definately a lean issue causing the pinging?
View 13 Replies2002 Santa Fe 2.7L AWD automatic
She was on the highway this afternoon and was accelerating to merge in with traffic. Apparently the car just reved up without actually accelerating. She said it felt like she was in neutral. I've driven the car a few times over the last week and it has been running perfectly - No hesitation anywhere at any speed. There are no CELs (yet). It is probably worth mentioning that it has been raining HEAVILY here for the last 24-hours and I would not be the least bit surprised if she hit a few puddles on the way. I can just about guarantee the CPS has never been changed and am suspecting it may be a short in causing her problem.
I just recently bought 2012 CorollaS. Great car inside and out with about 20k miles. I've noticed under acceleration and sudden braking a pop is coming from the passenger fender area. I've replaced the motor mount on that side thinking that might have been the issue, but it's still there. What are the torque specs for the motor mount. Maybe it's simply not torqued correctly.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2009 Corolla and the air conditioner is blowing warm....
View 4 RepliesI have a 1991 DODGE Dakota V6 3.9L FI with a TorqueFlite TF-6 A-500 4 speed RWD Automatic Transmission. Now, this truck is amazing and so is this transmission. It's been going for 22 years and about 400,000 miles and the bands in the tranny have never been replaced...EVER. The fluid filter has been replaced, once. Anyway...it's amazing, I mean the thing is still going strong after all this time and such low maintenance.
Anyway, I noticed a slight lack of acceleration, so as usual for an old automatic, I figured the bands might be slipping a bit. So I dug up the torque specs for it and performed the adjustments. Now, this is the funny part and I was not at all surprised to discover this. In fact, I'd had the hunch the entire time. I discovered that the bands are so old that they no longer respond properly to the recommended torque specs, so I had to guess work them. I did a bit of careful fiddling as I know just about everything there is to know about automatics and I understand perfectly the damage that can be caused when under/overtightening bands.
Anyway, I did some fiddling and got some interesting results that actually made me laugh to be honest, but I knew at first I wasn't quite doing it right. First gear was all right, but second kicked in a little late, and I felt a slip when third came around. So, I decided it was time for a moment of truth. What I ultimately ended up doing was tightening the bands to the recommended torque (in this case 72 inch lbs) and then slowly backing them off until I felt them let go, Then I put the proper torque on the locknuts (in this case 30 ft lbs).
Now, this tranny has two bands and a clutch pack, it has the low-reverse (rear) band, and the Kickdown(forward) band, and I believe the clutch pack is used to engage 3rd gear, because the rear band gives you 1st and rev, and the kickdown band gives you 2nd. After my ultimate adjustments, the kickdown band DID drag just a little for about a minute, but she quickly worked herself into a state where she's shifting better and accelerating better than she ever has before.
I'm amazed by this thing. I'm wondering if the kickdown band lets off when you hit 3rd gear? I know that when I feel the first kick, it's the KD band grabbing the front drum, which gives me second, but I'm wondering if it pulls simultaneously as third gear kicks in, or whether it stays tight against the drum?
My 2009 Toyota Matrix will turn over but wont start. I cant figure out what is causing this. So far I have replaced the battery ( Just in case ) I checked the spark plugs , they are good , If I try and start it a couple of times I can sometimes get it to start but its really rough sounding and dies instantly even if I give it gas. I also hear the fuel pump engaging so I don't think that is it. I put 5 gallons of premium gas in the tank just to make sure she didn't get some bad gas since she was almost on empty. I am lost at what to do now.
I just went over 60k miles so no warranty anymore.
My engine just went out in my 2009 Corolla XRS. What vehicles have the same engine as a 2009 Corolla XRS 2.4L manual transmission?
Also, what would it take to put in the 1.8L engine? Would it bolt straight up? Would I need a new ecu/wiring harness/mounts/exhaust/trans etc?
I am considering putting in a rebuilt or used transmission at the same time because my syncros were failing.
I am going to change the coolant in my 2009 corolla 1.8L. The service manual instructions tell me to open the "cylinder block drain cock plug" and I can't find it. The picture in the manual is not very clear, but it points to a spot on the engine just above the throttle body.
View 9 RepliesMy wife's 2009 Toyota Corolla is possessed and it's gotten her so frustrated she brought home a new puppy two days ago.
Over the last two weeks we've noticed a handful of times, after we've turned off the car and left it (with the interior headlight control in the off position) that we'd go out to the garage only to find the car's headlights on. (Keep in mind, it has a sensor that will automatically activate the headlights in dim light but this only is supposed to happen when the car is on.) It began having issues starting and yesterday it wouldn't turn over. Yet, when turning the ignition, it made a sound different than I've heard on the car when it has a dying/dead battery. Before calling the tow truck, I tried jumping it. The car did turn over -- and the headlights immediately came on (might have been the sensor in the dark garage, but they come on almost immediately rather than after a brief delay). Yet it died quickly after and wouldn't start again. My neighbor, however, smelled gas and suggested the engine might be flooded.
The car was towed to my mechanic -- who's a good guy. He just called and said the car turned on for him without a problem and he can't find anything despite running a battery of tests. He said he just doesn't want to swap stuff out without knowing there's an issue.
So, what could possibly be causing the car's headlights to go on when the car is completely turned off and the internal knob for the headlights is also in the off position? And could it be related to the car not turning over -- or did my wife flood the car when she tried to turn it over yesterday morning, creating a wholly separate issue?
I have 2009 corolla with 70000 miles on it. I replaced new brake pads. I have some metal grinding noise when i turn right only. I tried looking online and got few similar problem faced by other people. I am not sure if its exactly same issue. No accident damage. Mostly driven on freeway.
1) noise looks similar
2) I do not get noise when i accelerate
3) for car this old is it expected ?