Toyota - Corolla :: 2005 - Loss Of Power When Get Around 3000 Rpm
Oct 27, 2011
I have a 2005 Corolla LE 5-speed with 101,xxx. I have owned it a year and last fall noticed that when it got cold and first started it up the car would idle hunt. While getting some warranty work done I brought it up to the dealership and they said the throttle body was dirty and they would clean it for 100. I found a local garage that will clean it for fifty. I think my new problem may be related.
I have noticed during the past week or so when I am in 3rd and 4th, haven't noticed in 5th yet, gear when I get around 3,000rpm and I punch it just a little bit lets say to pass someone I initially lose power before the car goes. It feels almost like an automatic that has a transmission slipping but it's a stick and it does not occur while changing gears. It is very brief. I lean into the pedal a bit and then the car loses power just a bit and then peps up and goes.
I am wondering if this may be related to the throttle positioning sensor having crud on it. There is also no check engine light on.
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I have an '87 Toyota Corolla, automatic transmission, 4 door sedan with 80,000 miles on her. Recently have experienced a power and mpg loss. Top speed going uphill (30% grade) is 35. Recent repairs include replacing the timing belt, fuel/water pumps, flush cooling/transmission systems, and tune up to no avail!!! So what’s left? Could it be the catalytic converter? I do live in the mountains at 9,000 ft.
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Ok I got a 1995 toyota corolla 1.8l dx .... So this is my back up car I went out started it up let it set and warm up and took it around the yard to run it a little well it ran fine then all of a sudden it lost all it's power well I finaly got it back to the drive that was only 50ft away took almost 30mins just to get it there. I cut it off let it sit started it back up and still no power well now it won't even start it has new plugs.. Wires.. Cap button.
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I recently bought an 87 Toyota corolla fx 16 as I totaled out my other car hitting a deer when I test drove this car I had no issues on this car it had high miles at 197k but it seemed to purr like a kitten it wasn't until I started to drive it back and forth to work that I noticed the issue when the car is cold it runs and idles fine a little bit of shift hesitation but figured that might be a dirty transmission filter as the fluid appeared discolored however when the car warms up it shifts fine and begins to cut out and the Rpms dip under 1k every 20-30 seconds.
It becomes worse when the car is in gear driving down the road it randomly cuts out and seems to lose power while occasionally backfiring and if I come to a stop and leave it in gear it will die if I don't feather the throttle just right on takeoff or press it to the floor when I press it to the floor it's slow on take off and sounds like a mix of backfiring and missing and then suddenly takes off like a bat out of hell once I hit about 20 mph. When it dies the check engine light comes on but as soon as I start it it goes back off. I've already changed a bunch of the routine stuff since the car sat for a year such as fuel filter, air filter, plugs, wires, coil, rotor, valve cover gaskets, and replaced nearly all the vacuum lines trying to figure it out thinking its something simple.
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Recently purchased a 2004 Toyota Corolla in August. Last night coming home from a show (I'm a musician), the airbag light came on, my headlights seemed to be very dim.Eventually my car radio started to flicker and the mph and rxp meters as well as the odometer started to go up and back down and up while no juice from the gas peddle seemed to go to acceleration. Pulled over, car kinda sputtered like it was a dying battery. Turned it off. Waited tuned it back on and it tried to roll over but sounded like a dead battery again. The interior lights worked fine, all the of symbols (oil, battery engine) flashed but no ignition, radio or lighter charge .
After a long while tried again and it started with some coaxing, made it two more miles down the road and same thing happened, radio lights flicker, dim headlights, airbag light comes on, meters go crazy, lose acceleration. Waited a while, tried it, turned on, it turned on and we sat with it idling and same process happened while sitting there after just a short time. Dim headlights, Radio flicker, airbag light, meters crazy, slow lose of juice.
It has a brand new battery, it's a used car, I've been driving it with the check engine light on but have gotten it looked previously to disclose it was a sensor thing. Recently took it to the Toyota dealership for three recallsOne had to do with the airbags. After it was worked on the second time by them for two other recalls (one had to do with the door and I can't recall the other but am looking for the paper) my battery light came on. And has come off and on for about a week or two but with no trouble. Mostly in town driving. This trip I took was about at 40mi trip back and forth, it did fine up but coming home not so good. I'm not sure if it's any relation but that's the only "repairs" I've had done since purchasing the vehicle
Alternator? Bad battery? Electrical stuff?
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I have an 05 corolla XRS. I just had a sport clutch put in about 1 year ago. Whenever I shift into 4th gear and accelerate, the RPMs drop about 500 and I lose power for about 3 seconds before it starts going back up. Other gears are acting normal. Best part is that I let my friend drive the car earlier and since he did it's been doing this.
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Car: 1995 Corolla 1.8L automatic
Symptom: misfires around 3000-3500 RPM only when warm.
I have replaced the following:
-Spark plugs, wires, cap, and rotor
-Ignition coil
-Fuel filter
-Poured some quality fuel system cleaner into the gas tank
The car stutters when accelerating in any gear hard enough to reach the engine speed that the misfire occurs at. It doesn't backfire, it just misses... I am confused since so many of the misfire issues I know about that are RPM specific are spark-related.
I have considered cleaning the injectors, but don't want to go through the hassle to remove and have them cleaned unless I really have to. Checking if hunch on the injectors is correct? Something else?
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Having problem with 2010 Toyota Corolla. Engine light comes on as well as VSC and traction control but the engine does not shut off. I loose power and engine runs really rough. I have to pull over and unplug my battery cable and the problem is gone until a week or two later same thing happens. My gas mileage is about 10 km for every 100KM city and Highway mix. The engine idle is also rough and sometimes when I try to do a U turn or get in and out of parking the engine shuts off.
Engine scanned shows P0010 and it could be three or for causes? My problem is that mechanics change one thing which costs an arm and a leg then if that did not fix the problem they say now lets change another part? I can not afford to fix them one by one and get charged for it as they replace one part at a time.
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I've got an '05 Tacoma 4WD with 145,000 miles. Very recently, when taking right curves at moderate speed ( e.g. freeway cloverleaf onramps), I'll lose power at the apex of the curve. It comes back immediately when the I straighten out. No warning lights on panel. It feels like no gas since there's no difference when I press the accelerator pedal.
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I own a 2005 corolla. Has 112k on it. Having issue with car not starting after driven to store and parked. Happened 4 times. Let car sit and it starts. Puzzled to what issue can be.
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I own a Toyota corolla 2005 . I had 4 occasions where the car would not start after I turned it off. If I let it sit and come back car starts. The electrical system was checked out but pep boys with no issue.
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I have a 2005 Toyota corolla with a little over 200,000 miles on it. My car was struggling to start (but would start after several seconds of turning the key. I figured it needed a new battery because the other battery was old. I had the battery replaced and they cleaned the terminals because they told me they were corroded. With the new battery though, the car is still struggling to start. What could be the issue?
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Baffled that my well-maintained 05 Corolla couldn't smog today. Smog checker said rpms were too high and it got kicked off the machine six times; said he had replaced his cable today. Manual transmission, 96,000 miles and had oil change last week; 93,000 major service included flush of something.
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My 05 corolla has a "maintenance required" light that has come on on the right side of my dash. I have taken care of the car and changed the oil every 3000 miles. I have changed the oil myself though so I don't have to pay 30 dollars for 8 dollars worth of oil. I'm thinking this light is just some program reminder, but what this light is and how I can turn it off.
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My 2005 Corolla LE makes a low moaning/groaning sound when I release the accelerator between 40-50 mph. This does not happen below or above the said speed range. I can hear it only when it is sufficiently quiet like in quiet mornings or on roads with low road noise. What could it be ? Do I need to fix it and how ?
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I have a '05 Corolla with around 80,000 miles on it.I've noticed for the past few weeks that it makes a weird noise when I brake. It's what I would describe as a gurgling or almost groaning sound coming from under the hood. This only happens about every other day, and only when I've slowing pressing the brake to coast to a stop or slowing on a downward slope.
Took it to one mechanic who couldn't duplicate the sound and gave up.The brake pads are relatively new and the sound is definitely not coming from the tires.
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I have a 2005 Toyota Corolla 5spd manual that recently is having an issue when starting off in first gear. In cold weather, I get a really bad shimmy, or shake, when I'm switching from clutch to gas. The shimmy is pretty bad only when I'm at rest going into first gear, but then subtle from first to second. I feel nothing while I'm driving in the other gears. Many theories come to mind what is causing this, but I'm not sure what it could be. I've never had the transmission oil changed. it could either be the clutch plate going bad or the throttle body.
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My 91 corolla likes to lurch and misfire. Also there seems to be a slight loss of power to the engine. Clutch isn't slipping. What's going on? friend said it might be the distributor.
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So I took my 2005 Corolla this morning to get it detailed at a Eco Detailing place. They use steam instead of water. When I picked it up it looked good and I left. On the way home I went to turn on the radio and nada. No lights, no sound. The rest of my dashboard was working fine. So I called the place and told the main dude what happened. He said this happens sometime when the doors of the car are left open for three - four hours. He said give it a couple of days and the radio would reset. I'm pretty doubtful. I have all the windows down in the car to dry out any left over humidity.
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I have a 2005 Toyota Corolla with 312,000 miles. I was driving in extreme desert heat, uphill, ac off, and the car continuously stopped. Gauge did not show overheating. Engine light has been on because of the catalytic converter/exhaust system. Got some repairs. Now, it's doing what it originally did. With my foot on the gas pedal, driving along smoothly, suddenly it feels like I've just braked -- chugs a couple of times like it's going to stop, slows, then goes back to normal for a while. Continually doing that. Especially when it is very hot outside. Already had the ECU replacement from the recall.
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I recently brought my 2005 toyota corolla to my mechanic to give my car a check up as i will be going on a three week road trip soon.Upon assessment, my mechanic told me that my front right wheel bearing was making a strange noise and that i should replace it. I went ahead and had it replaced. after i had it replaced the front right wheel area was still making a grinding noise (louder than before it was replaced). I brought it back and he replaced it again with a new wheel bearing.
Again after the 2nd replacement it continued to make a load crunching, grinding noise when ever i brake the car. So once again, i brought it back. I thought perhaps it was my brake rotor and had him check that. He did just that and said the break was fine. He said it may be because the axl was not sitting true. so i had the axl replaced. well today i picked up the car and drove it approx 5 miles and the same crunching/grinding noise persists!!! I brought it back and it is once again being worked on. I need it fixed and am worried that my car won't hold up for my upcoming 4000mile road trip. I have attached a video clip of the sound to this post.
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