Baffled that my well-maintained 05 Corolla couldn't smog today. Smog checker said rpms were too high and it got kicked off the machine six times; said he had replaced his cable today. Manual transmission, 96,000 miles and had oil change last week; 93,000 major service included flush of something.
View 3 RepliesRPMs fluctuate from very high to very low without me doing anything. It doesn't do it all the time, so far its happened 4-5 times in the past 3 days. I first noticed it when driving, I took my foot off the gas to break and it started doing it and once I hit the gas it stopped. It seems to be getting worse because today I put it in the park and when it should have jumped into idle it started and even when I hit the gas it didn't stop. Like I said the RPMs fluctuate from very high to very low in a few seconds regular intervals.
View 2 RepliesI'm new to owning a Toyota. I just financed a 2010 black Toyota corolla S with 36 miles on it from a local dealership after i decided my last car was pretty much a money pit (2001 expedition)...blew the head gaskets, then after that was fixed developed a bad knock...anyhow i just decided i was overdue for a new car. Its a 5 speed manual and at highway speeds (65-70mph) I've noticed the rpms are bit high...like around 3grand. Is that normal? Just seemed really high to me, I really think this car would do great with a 6 speed. Also is the corolla governed? I was on a long stretch of road and i quickly got to 110ish with no sign of a governor kicking in...?
View 14 RepliesMy 2009 , 1.8 Corolla gets terrible gas mileage. 23 city (lowest was 12), best ever was 30 highway. I have approx 14K on the odo because the MPG makes me want to leave at home.
The MPG has been verified in writing by 2 different dealers, so I do not consider myself the problem.I drive conservatively and calculate MPG based on actual miles / gallons.Toyota Corp did not bother to fix this issue.It has been serviced regularly and had whatever fixes Toyota offered.
What I think is causing my terrible mileage is some glitch in an engine sensor that causes it to rev from 900 to 1100 RPM when I take my foot off the accelerator and attempt to coast. The revs go down when I press the brake. This happens constantly, especially at around 25 MPH. If I do not brake, the car will pull for a while without slowing down like normal cars.
I showed my Toyota dealers but they all said nothing is wrong. My Corolla even went up a slight hill without my foot near the accelerator. One tech told me the Corolla is burning off extra fuel, but my car will pull itself for over 1/2 mile, too much time for "burning"
Something IS wrong. I have driven dozens of vehicles and never had one jump like this. Where to start diagnosing?
I own a 1996 Corolla DX with an auto transmission which has a few issues I would like to fix. The biggest issue is that sometimes it stays stuck at high RPMs (somewhere near 3,100) without changing gears which makes me have to give it some extra torque momentarily to change gear and drive at normal RPMs. But sometimes it does the opposite, when slowing down it sometimes stays at a higher gear and won't change to a lower gear until I've slowed down almost to a stop.
Another issue is that it is very slow to accelerate, it just feels real heavy and I regularly have to give it a lot of torque just to be at equal speed with the rest of the cars on the road, does this have a fix? Other than that there isn't any major issue that I actually know about, for this reason I'd like to know what place you would recommend me taking my car to get a full checkup to find any issues I don't know about.
Noticed this morning I was idling at 1000 rpms and was wondering if that's normal or a little high?
View 5 RepliesI have a 96 F250 w/a 351w, I can hear a buffering or low whizzing sound coming from the smog pump...(I know its from the pump cuz I took the hose off and could really hear it). In addition, I notice that even after the truck is warmed up I push in the clutch and the rpm's will stay at about 1100-1200 then slowly go back down to 900ish. But if I just let start it and it runs it will sit around 900 even after I rev it up.....? I am wondering, A. is the smog pump supposed to make that sound, ( I can hear it in the cab when driving and initially thought is was a small exhaust leak), and B. could there be any relation between the smog pump and the odd idle?
View 1 RepliesCar is a 2000 Corolla CE.
When going at the desired speed (say 40mph) and there is lots of coasting room, I just let go off the accelerator and the car basically coasts. The engine RPM drops from 1600-1800 down to 900-1000 and it actually can coast a long way. Sometimes, I need to go faster (if I'm initially started at a slower speed) and when I press the gas pedal slightly, the tachometer shows the engine rpm jumps from the coasting 900-1000 to 1600-1800.
Is the tachometer (add on by ScanGuage) reporting it correctly? Is this a bad form of acceleration for the engine?
I have an 05 corolla XRS. I just had a sport clutch put in about 1 year ago. Whenever I shift into 4th gear and accelerate, the RPMs drop about 500 and I lose power for about 3 seconds before it starts going back up. Other gears are acting normal. Best part is that I let my friend drive the car earlier and since he did it's been doing this.
View 7 RepliesI have a 1997 Toyota Camry with over 200,000 miles. It is a manual: 5 speed. In the past few months it has started to idle at around 2000 RPMS, which is way too high. I took the car into a mechanic where I am currently living (Austin, TX), and they couldn't diagnose the problem, because, according to them, it didn't do it the whole time they had it. I admit, it doesn't do it all the time, but I know something is not right. It is beginning to idle high more frequently. How to diagnose this problem and to solve it!!
View 4 RepliesI'm worried about my beloved 02 Toyota Rav4. She's been a great car, we've driven all over the continent, never had a mechanical problem. Lately, particularly on humid days, my cruise control will stop working mid-trip and at the same time the RPMs start running high, nearly twice what they usually are. It lasts until I get home, next time I start her she's fine. The guys at the shop never find anything. The engine control module was replaced last year under an "extended warranty."
View 6 RepliesI have a 2003 Toyota Corolla with 90000 miles, that gets regular maintenance.
I've tried taking it to the dealership, but all they want to do is blindly follow their flowchart, making me spend lots of money in the process. Per their instruction, I've already replaced the battery, I've done a tune up, including spark plug replacement.
I think it's probably some sensor that is busted. The car has 90000 miles now (I bought it 3 years ago with 59000), and it didn't have this problem before. In the past, it wouldn't rev high. But now, the revs wont go back to normal unless you spend a good 10-15 minutes in park until it "warms up", even though this also occurs in the summer.
Generally though the car has run great. It just revs high when starting up in the morning.
Twice in the past month my Honda Odyssey after driving for over an hour the RPMS go sky high and car only goes up to 5 miles an hour. The car can not go into reverse and steering is difficult. The air conditioning was on during both of these events.Upon having it towed to the Honda dealer both times, they could not find anything wrong with the car, it runs fine.They ran diagnostics both times and found nothing. The check engine light has never come on.The AC runs hot air until I put the temp as low as possible. Then I can adjust temperature. I have had all of the work done on the car at the same Honda dealership since purchase in 2005.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2001 Toyota Camry, Manual, with about 190,000 miles on it and I am having 2 issues that may or (more likely) may not have anything to do with one another.
1) I am experiencing really high (over 3k) RPMs at the lowers speeds in each gear right after I shift, especially in 5th gear. After a few seconds, if I back my foot off the gas, the RPMs drop down to a normal level and increase at a normal speed. Several other people have posted this and supposedly this car might lock me out of overdrive if its cool, but I have a manual, could this be my problem? Also it happens at least sometimes in lower gears as well, it does seem like the car is staying in a lower gear rather than changing when I change it.
next problem
2) My car has gotten really loud, its not a weird noise, just kind of a vrooming type sound, however it is coming from the back of my car (maybe more on the right) when I turn left the sound gets louder and when I turn right the sound goes completely away.
When I'm going up hill or any time I'm at high RPM's, a flicking (not clicking) noise starts. Additional revving of engine. At first, I thought it was the AC blower motor. It's def not that though.
View 3 RepliesMy 1994 Toyota Corolla idles at around 1500 and 2000 RPM just about anytime I drive it.
It is worst when I first start the car, and it gets better the longer I drive, however, it is still well above a normal idling range!!
I add oil regularly and do check the levels on most of my fluids on a weekly basis!
I've been chasing this P0171 code for over a year now. STFT is normal plus minus 5 but LTFT won't go below 21.1%. At highway speeds the lowest the LTFT will go is 10-15% then goes back up to 21.1% at idle.
Things I've done:-
- New the air intake gasket to the Orange one
- Cleaned the MAF sensor
- New PCV
- Smoke test reveal nothing (vacuum is at 21-24 in-Hg) (did not smoke test the exhaust yet)
- Changed to used fuel pump. Funny thing here is that now when I shift the car to park the STFT steady increases to 25%. The old fuel pump never done this. But the car feels like it has more power now.
- New gas cap
- Cleaned TB
- Cleaned fuel injectors and flow tested
- New A/F sensor and downstream O2 sensor
All parts were either genuine Toyota parts or OEM Denso. My next course of action is to buy a new Denso fuel pump or replace the ignition coil pack.
My hybrid has been a great car, owned 3 years. Now have problem: runs great but if going higher speed 65 and pulls hill needing to kick in to 4000rpms it dies right away says high temp engine but does not smell hot or need water. Let it sit for 15 minutes (even though will start right away but might keep dying unless sits). Will run fine unless hits higher rpms then dies again. 2005 Ford Escape Hybrid...
View 5 RepliesI literally just got this truck 1 week ago. '05 6.0 F250. I have read numerous other threads and have not found an answer. I will start from the beginning.
I was driving on the hwy and once the engine is hot and I am over 55mph the truck feels like it wants to stall. The rpms drop and come right back up. Its like a 'hiccup'. If it starts to act up and I pull over it remains at idle and not stall. Once i get back on the hwy IF I go over 55mph the truck will stall and I will not be able to start until cool.
After doing some reading through the forums I replaced the IPR on the HPOP.
I tested the high pressure oil system. I took off the valve covers and tested both the right and left side individually, with the IPR valve open and close; cannot find a leak.
I took the fitting off of the top of the HPOP and tested with air there as well. I only hear air out of the weep hole in the back behind the gear on the pump.
I took the oil pump off and charged the branch tube with air, no leaks.
I checked all the dummy plugs. They have been already replaced with the upgraded ones and the orings all looked good.
I took the upper half of the standpipes out - look good, orings looked good. I was unable to get the lower half of the standpipe out on the passenger side due to the air box and the driver side only the top half came out when unscrewed from the oil rail.
I put it all back together with 2 new batteries.
I started it, (started cold), drove it 25 miles and it stalled, let it cool down and it started. Drove it 20 more miles and I pulled into a parking lot and I shut it off, and it started right back up 3 times. When it shut it off on the highway I unplugged the ICP sensor and it did NOT start.
It runs fine until I go over 55mph then I am getting the same stall issue. I can drive it around under 50mph and have no issues. I drove it under 50mph and shut it off a total of 3 times and it started back up no problem. If I drive it over 55mph rpm gauge drops and then comes right back up and IF it stalls I cannot start until it cools. Once it stalls out, If I try to crank on it, my IPR is 84.8% IPC - 99-120.
I am using a Scanguage II at idle:
ICP - 18.5
IPR - 585
FMP - 47.5
My FICM Voltage stays between 12.5 - 13.0 while running.
I own a 2005 corolla. Has 112k on it. Having issue with car not starting after driven to store and parked. Happened 4 times. Let car sit and it starts. Puzzled to what issue can be.
View 18 RepliesI drive a 2010 Toyota Corolla, 1.8L vehicle. We recently went on vacation to Colorado and somewhere around Fairplay, CO, which is about 9500 feet above sea level, our relatively new car with only about 47K just died in the middle of the road where there was not shoulder or cell phone service. I pulled over the best I could and popped the hood after several attempts to restart to no avail. I removed the decorative plastic engine cover and looked at it long enough to realize I did not know anything to do or try, reinstalled the cover and closed the hood. I was then able to restart the car and go a little further.
It did happen to us one more time and again after a few minutes on the side of the road with the hood open I was able to start it. I was very surprised that there was no check engine light when I was able to restart the car. I would expect if the engine just dies in the middle of driving that it would at least produce a code where I could have some idea of what was going on. I have read about vapor lock, but it sounds like it is more likely to happen on older cars with a carburetor and with the fuel pump under the hood instead of in the fuel tank. Should I try higher octane fuel?