Toyota - Corolla :: 2004 - When Shifting Into 2nd And 3rd Gears Over-Throttle During Acceleration
Nov 25, 2012
Every so often, my manual transmission Corolla will "overthrottle" during acceleration, especially shifting into 2nd and 3rd gears (and sometimes even 4th), i.e., the engine will race above the usual RPMs associated with each gear, just for a bit. This however, isn't consistent. I still need to check if the engine air filter is dirty, which I suspect could be a part of the issue.
The vehicle has ca. 124,975mi, and only started exhibiting this problem 2-3 months ago, and only in 2nd gear. Again, this issue is very intermittent, and sometimes I can go a week or two without any incidents at all. The regular maintenance (oil changes, cooling system maintenance, etc.) has been faithfully performed according the manufacturer's specifications.
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I currently own a Toyota Corolla VVTI 1.8 2009 GLI. I have been racing this car here at our auto drome for over a year. Last race it starting giving me real bad issues with shifting on the track. I can be a 5,900 RPM and shift to a higher gear and the car will choke and drown and it takes forever to recognize I'm accelerating. I know this is because of the computer and the electronic accelerator it comes with ( I can't remember it's name in English). My gas pedal is Denso and I understand there is an adaption that can be done to the cable to trick the computer.
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I'm having issues with my 2004 Toyota Corolla with 118K. Every few weeks, the car will go through a phase where it will stall out, run rough and hesitate on acceleration. Oftentimes it is accompanied with the rotten egg smell coming from the catalytic converter. When I decelerate to a stop light, the car will stall. When I start it back up, I have to rev the engine to 2000 rpm in neutral to keep it from re-stalling. Once I get up to about 10-15 mph, the car will jerk and sputter, and at 40mph, the jerking motion gets worse. If the car doesn't stall it'll run rough and have the rotten egg smell. I'm assuming the smell is from unburnt gas.
I find it happens more often when I don't let the car warm up for a few minutes. I've taken it to my mechanic, and i've gone through 2 MAF sensors, cleaned the throttle body. I changed the iridium plugs at 102K and am on top of maintenance with filters, oil and such. Of course when I bring it to the mechanic, the problems don't show up, and we are kinda blind to what could be causing the issue. Also, if I park it for a day or two after the issue occurs, the problems go away. What to look for?
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2011 Focus 2.0L L4 engine, manual transmission, 70K miles - when up-shifting gears, the throttle remains high, dropping v-e-r-y slowly instead of dropping rapidly when the throttle is released. It is the same when not moving, when the throttle is run up to steady RPM's, then the pedal is released, the RPM's drop slowly. This has started recently, at first I thought it was just 'operator error', and that our shifting skills were deteriorating with age (ours, not the car), but testing has proven the fault lies with the vehicle. I researched sticking throttle issues, and thought I had located the problem as a bad throttle body assembly. Changed it out with a new one, went thru the computer reset procedure,and the problem still exists. No error codes are showing, but the little yellow wrench light is lit on the dash (resets each startup. Vehicle drives fine otherwise, no loss of power, etc.
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I have 2005 Toyota Camry LE (V4 2.4L), for some reason it stopped shifting gears, weird part that it does drive on 1st or 2nd gear but then it won't shift to the next gears, instead, it acts as if I am on neutral, doesn't matter how much gas I push or how high RMP goes the car just rolls as if I switched to neutral.
Once the RPM goes high, I stop the car, turn of the car, turn it back again and then it wouldn't even shift into first gear, it acts as if I am in neutral. Additionally, the reverse in the car works as it should, no problem there. The check engine light is not on!
What have I already done: Changed oil in transmission (just in case the oil was dirty - it was dark), unplugged battery for an hour (see if computer needed resetting after transmission oil change).
I googled the symptoms and it seems like there could be solenoid problem and that there is like four of them in V4, which type of solenoid could have failed, will cleaning it useful or is the electrical problem in the solenoid, or is there some kind of other problem.
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Check engine abs wheel and brake lights have all come on. Speedometer will not function cruise control doesn't work and my car won't switch gears after the 3rd gear. At first I thought it was the speed sensor but I replaced the sensor and nothing.
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So my 1998 Toyota Corrolla jumps and jerks after I switch gears. It only does it sometimes and I have seemed to narrow down that it does it mostly when the air conditioning is on and between 3rd and 4th gear if I don't have the RPMs just right. There is no smell nor any mettalic grinding. I'm thinking it's something to do with the transmission.
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Car is 2000 Corolla with 60k miles that sometimes has a low idle (sometimes) when driven for the first 15 minutes early morning. Especially when accessories turn on, the RPM drop suddenly to 600 and recovers to 623 then back to 650rpm. After 15 minutes, everything works fine (normal 650 rpm)....my guess is the IAC Valve/throttle body needs cleaning.
What exactly do I need to tell me mechanic? That both the IAC Valve and throttle body needs to be clean? Also, after "cleaning it using a spray"....should he wait till the "spray dissipates"? What happens if it goes inside the engine?
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My 94 Toyota Corolla has about 190,000 miles on it and lately it has had a hard time shifting between 20-30mph. It finally does reach it and does not have trouble shifting at any other speeds. This only happens in the heat of the afternoon (Never have this problem in the morning). Also, my O/D light has been flashing when this happens, or at least around the time it happens. Could these two problems be linked? I took it to my mechanic in the morning and he checked the transmission fluid and it seemed fine, he also had no problems driving around when he tested the car. He said my transmission is going and that I should make "long term" plans. Is there any hope?
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Is it normal to feel resistance and binding of gears when shifting into L or H, when regular shifter is in neutral? One Lexus dealer technician said no, a different Lexus dealer said yes, and a 20-year private transmission shop technician said yes; the "yes" technicians said its because the gears are not synchronized and will grind and bind a little when shifting into L or H on the 4 wheel drive shifter. Car is a 2007 GX 470 and runs great.
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Every time I reach about 64 mph, the car begins to sputter spontaneously. As I give constant gas to keep it at that speed, the car hesitates, as if the gas isn't combusting consistently. This sputter also happens sometimes when I'm simply accelerating for example from a stop sign, however, it is CONSISTENTLY doing it at about 64 mph. I can go faster and the sputtering seems to lessen (at 70+mph, as long as I'm accelerating). Took to mechanic, he couldn't figure it out, although they suggest getting yet another computer.I've replaced:Distributor capDistributorSpark plugsComputer (from ebay, remanufactured)
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Our 05 Corolla, 160,000 miles, has started making a grinding sound when we upshift into 3rd, unless we let the rpms fall to below 1000. My husband said the clutch needed adjusting, but the dealer said this clutch is not adjustable. The dealer found nothing wrong and could not get the car to make the noise while in the shop. (It did actually get better for a while but got worse again almost immediately after the visit to the dealer.)
Our other car (a Saturn) has over 250K miles on the original clutch, so I don't think it's our driving. What could be wrong, and is this something that needs to be addressed soon lest we damage something irreparably? Also, this car has, since purchase, been nearly impossible to shift on the coldest mornings. Really, sometimes it is all I can do to get the lever in reverse to back out of the drive in winter (in Kansas). Warming up works, but it seems to take an inordinate amount of time before shifting is"normal."
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Saw this topic addressed, but not resolved to my satisfaction, in a post made some years back by the owner of an '03 Corolla. The comments suggested a water leak was the cause. But the sound is definitely DRY (think Etch-A-Sketch vs. waterbed). And the small amount of water that is leaking on the front passenger side floor didn't start until about a month after we started hearing the noise.
My VERY amateur guess is that it is some sort of breach in the air bag system, since that's where the noise sounds like it's originating. I searched the internet and didn't find anything on this topic of a sand noise coming from the vicinity of the glove compartment. Since the local Toyota dealer service department also thinks it's a water leak (not covered by our warranty, apparently) and that it could be potentially very expensive to locate and fix....
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My 2004 Forester (73000 miles) with 5-speed manual, is sometimes hard shifting into gears. The Subaru agency says that there's 'not much left' on the clutch and I need a new clutch @ $1300. Does hard shifting , no clutch slipping, indicate new clutch is necessary?
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was diriving my toy1and was shifting from 3rd to 4th when the rpm reved up and the car would not take any gears to drive foword or revers my gears when you shift are engagging but no mvement also i dont have to push the clutch in to shift it will go with out clutching.
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Our 2004 LeSabre has the following symptoms - there's a clicking that occurs whenever the car is in motion, the car occasionally hesitates/bucks when shifting between gears (but not always), the radio sometimes does not go off when the keys are taken out of the ignition, we're losing about a quart of oil about every 2500 miles but there is no sign of a leak on the ground, we also seem to have reduced mileage (using more gas).
In this corner, Mechanic 1 (high price) - replace front lower control arms, sway bar, and bushing, front end alignment, throttle body gasket and EGR tube, oil pan gasket replacement, ignition switch replacement, brake fluid and coolant flush. $1900
In the other corner, Mechanic 2 (low price) thinks it's just the spark plugs and wires that need to be replaced, the wires, replace air and fuel filter, and PCV valve - $450
We had the oil changed about 2500 miles ago, replaced the air filter then. The oil change place suggested a coolant and brake fluid flush. I've used mechanic 1 in the past and they have replaced my head gaskets a couple of times and I suspect they are ripping me off.
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I bought 2008 Corolla S 5 speed with 62K miles. Now have 135K miles. When shifting up into 3rd gear, a grinding occurs intermittently, more often as miles accumulate. I try to make sure clutch pedal is fully depressed. No problems occur with other forward gears, up or down. What the problem might be and/or what can be done to fix? This is the sixth car I have owned with manual transmission. Never a problem like this!
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Just as the title says, 214k great shape just wont get going more you mash the less it goes.... fuel pump already replaced, can undo battery and take a while to reset feels to do fine then goes back to bogging down... TPS ? idle air control?
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I have a 2009 Toyota Corolla with under 90,000 mi. Sometimes while driving, the car will refuse to accelerate and slow down to about 10 mi an hour. The only way to fix it, is to pull over and turn the car off and restart it. It immediately responds and it doesn't happen again. This lack of acceleration usually occurs in the first 5 mi of driving. I have a new battery...
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I have an 05 corolla XRS. I just had a sport clutch put in about 1 year ago. Whenever I shift into 4th gear and accelerate, the RPMs drop about 500 and I lose power for about 3 seconds before it starts going back up. Other gears are acting normal. Best part is that I let my friend drive the car earlier and since he did it's been doing this.
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My 2004 V8 clunks when shifting gears, causing the engine to oscillate right through the seat. It also happens when driving a steady speed, e.g., 10MPH in traffic, and you goose the gas or release the gas altogether. So far:
1. Replaced transmission valve body
2. Replaced stepper motor
3. Replaced rear propellor shaft and bearing
I think this started with a reflash of the trans to cure the death lag.
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