Toyota - Corolla :: 2004 - Idle Seem To Be Off
Mar 20, 2011
I own a 2004 Toyota Corolla and the idle seems to be off. How can I fix that? And approximately how much would it cost me?
View 1 RepliesI own a 2004 Toyota Corolla and the idle seems to be off. How can I fix that? And approximately how much would it cost me?
View 1 RepliesWhen I start my '03 Corolla its idle speed is around 1200 and later after driving for a few miles it settles down to around 700. Other than that it starts well and runs smoothly. I tried to back off the idle adjustment screw and found out that the screw was barely touching the stop. In older models I used to be able to fix or repair the cold idle in engines with a carburetor, but am totally clueless regarding fuel injectors. This condition also happens when I start the car during the middle of Texas summer (100+ deg).
The car has 123,000 miles. I have not ever changed the plugs, but as i mentioned the engine starts and runs smoothly. As expected, the idle speed responds well whenever the air conditioner is turned on. The engine temperature comes to the mid gauge as always after driving a mile or so. No engine check lights come on. The car always passes the annual smog inspection.
I have a 2000 Corolla with about 147,000 miles. At idle it runs very rough, but can accelerate up to about 50 mph. Then it starts to cough and wheeze and run roughly again and won't accelerate any further. It feels like the engine will shake itself off its mounts, so I slow down and stay under 50 mph. I replaced spark plugs and a repair place hooked it up to a computer. They then told me it needed about 1800 dollars worth of repairs to replace the valve cam I think they said. I'm skeptical and wonder if it just needs a tune up, . It has not had one since I bought it at 128,000 miles, and II don't know how long it had been prior to that.
View 5 RepliesBasically when the car is in D and when i am stopped with the brakes pressed on at a stop sign or a red light, the car starts vibrating and i can see the the rpm going down and then receiving back up and going down again something when the car is in R. its a 2009 toyota corolla le 90k miles. when the headlights are on, the rpm stays high so the car does not vibrate or anything. other than this the car runs perfectly fine.
View 1 RepliesI have a '98 5-Speed Corolla. If I rev the engine when the car is in neutral and warming up I hear an odd grinding noise when I let off the gas and the engine goes down to idle. The noise does not occur if I put my clutch in. Is this something to worry about?
Also, I'm wondering what CV joints sound like when they're failing.
Over the past month I've notice the idle speed increasing. Yesterday I had to turn the idle adjustment screw to lower the idle speed, as the high idle speed was making it difficult to drive in stop and go traffic. Especially if I took my foot off the gas while in gear, it would jerk rather than slowing down smoothly as it used to. I think the jerking was related to how the ECM stops the injectors completely when slowing down in gear, to improve mpg, then before the rpms gets too low, fire the injectors back up again. Anyway, lowering the idle speed with the adjustment screw fixed the jerking problem, for now.
But in 20 years, I've never had this occur before. The only time I've fiddled with the idle adjustment screw was during tune-ups, and then only had to adjust it 5-15 degrees. This time I had to turn it in 45 degrees. I expect there is unwanted air getting into the intake manifold somehow. And it will probably get worse. Here's some ideas -- in order of most likely to least likely -- I've had what could be causing it.
Throttle valve sticking in throttle body and needs a cleaning.
Throttle linkage needs a lube.
Canister purge valve is open during idle and allowing fumes from the canister into the intake manifold, when it shouldn't be.
Throttle position switch has failed.
Vacuum hose or device leaking.
IAC valve (part of throttle body in this car) is sticking.
ECM is bumping the idle speed through the vacuum controlled actuator (VSD). Unlikely, b/c the idle speed still increases when I turn the headlights on or I turn the steering wheel, both of which use this mechanism (I think).
Thermostat -- unlikely as it happens even when the coolant has reached 195 deg F (when the fan turns on).
My exhaust system was replaced on my 2005 Corolla in August. After driving it for just a few days, there was a shaking when the car idled. The mechanic replaced two engine mounts and the idle was much worse! He said it was ok to drive, so I started on my planned trip across the country. In Denver I took it to a mechanic at the Toyota dealer and they adjusted the throttle. It was better for a while, maybe a week and 1,000 miles. Now it is worse than ever! Having gotten two totally different causes from mechanics, I am not sure what to do next.
Also just before the exhaust sytem went, I had the 60,000 mile service done and had the car totally checked out by both Toyota, and an independent mechanic who specilizes in Japanese cars. After a car wash in California, the maintence required light came on.
What is going on?
Mine is toyota corolla - 2001 VE model. It has 116K miles in it.
It hesitates nowadays to pickup after a long idle time, say in morning when i start to work or when i leave from work to home(idle time of 8 to 10 hrs). I noticed this problem only during very high temp, say atleast 80F.
Hesitation will be there for 4 or 5 secs and will not move even if i give full acceleration, but after that it moves normally.
Car has automatic transmission and i only see this i put it to Drive(D or D2) and not when i do reverse.
I purchased a used 2010 Toyota Corolla LE with about 40k miles back in February of this year. Since then, the car has been issue-free and has responded accordingly.
Two weeks ago I noticed that the car when idle or at a stop light it'd make a subtle rattling noise (as if it was something behind the glove compartments rattling against metal). At 1st I thought maybe it was something inside, but as that week turned to days, I noticed that while I was outside the car and it was on and idle, I could hear the rattling from the right side of the car under the passenger seat (closer to the engine, as if right below where the glove compartment sat)--It is a constant rattle at the same frequency..meaning it doesn't rattle one way 1st and then another later. It sounds the same, but it is random.
It evolved from a subtle rattle inside to being a loud rattle outside under the car. I noticed that if it was rattling and I turned off the air, the rattling would stop, but after 20 seconds, the rattling would return just not as frequent.
It was advised to me that perhaps it was the blower...but the blower sits behind the glove compartment and should not sound so loud under the car. Not only that, but if the blower isn't on (when I turn off the air) it shouldn't sound...at least that's my logic for it.
The sound is getting louder and more frequent at this time and I'm just not sure what to do about this. I live in Miami, FL and hearing so many rip offs at mechanics, I don't know what this rattling is and I've already crawled under the car and see nothing wrong, nothing shaking violently, nothing.
2006 Toyota Corolla , 100k, manual transmission. Good maintenance, I know the car. The owner told me that the use of the highest setting of the blower motor will cause the engine idle to drop. I stopped-by his place and he started it up, engine was already warm due to recent use, he then turned on the heat, went through the blower settings. I watched the tach and saw the engine rpm drop by almost 300 when he turned it to high. Recent battery and cables (Summer 2014).
View 5 RepliesI have a 1993 Geo Prizm (Toyota Corolla) that idles roughly and lopes only when the engine is fully warmed up to operating temp. I changed the plugs, and wires are only 1 year old and seem to be in good shape. I suspected a vacuum leak, but have not been able to find one.
View 4 RepliesMy son's 2010 Toyota Corolla S made a "rattling ticking sound at idle" twice this week.
I can't duplicate it, the oil level is fine and everything is working.
I fill my gas tank to 100% but I don't pump it again and overfill it like most people do after the pump stops. I then proceed to start the car. Initially it revs up and starts fine but when it revs back down to idle it does a rough idling (and sometimes it stalls). To get around the stall, I would restart and rev the engine to 3000 rpm for about 2 mins and it would be fine enough that I can drive away without it stalling but after a mile the rough idling stops and everything is back to normal. I replaced the PCV valve and it worked for about a year but it all came back again. I am stumped and every mechanic gives me a different reason and none of the reasons are even definite. It's one of those "lets try this and see what happens". One more thing, the car runs fine. It only happens when I pump more than 75% of the tank.
View 5 RepliesI replaced my EGR valve vacuum check valve, but now started getting sputtering/rough idle. I'm pretty sure the direction of the vacuum check valve is correct, but I tried both ways to be sure and still got the sputtering at idle.
The old vacuum check valve didn't give me the sputter. I only replaced it because it was melted and I'm not sure it was working. I included a photo of it. It's orange and black.
I recently bought a 2010 Toyota Corolla. I have been having some issues with the A/C. The A/C seems to work fine when the car is moving but when it is idle it gets warmer. I have recently gotten the freon checked and they put in some more but that didn't work, same problem still happening. Somebody told me that i need a extra fan which didn't make sense to me. Last resort will be to take it to the dealership to have them check. Once again the A/C blows cold air when the car is going over 50 MPH.
View 2 RepliesMy 2000 Toyota Corolla is making a knocking sound that gets worse when the car is in idle and in drive. I have a feeling that it is dying, but is it unsafe?
View 8 RepliesI have a 1997 Corolla with 150k miles.
I had my catalytic converter and flex pipe replaced this summer. Lately, my car has been idling rough. While stuck in some horrific stop and go traffic three weeks ago, it started to make noises as if it would stall out. It didn't, but it still sometimes makes those noises.
The car seems fine on the highway. No loss of power. I did think that the hood felt too warm on a recent trip, but the temperature gauge in the car showed no issue.
The car hesitated when I tried to start it last week, but normally starts fine. It was the first cold day of the year.
I saw some white smoke come out of the tailpipe last week. It only happened once. Coolant and oil levels are fine. The spark plugs look good.
The fill pipe has been leaking gas for several months. It leaks if the tank is more than half full and it drips a bit of gas when I fill up. Two mechanics have not been able to find the leak and have told me not to replace it until it is a problem, given the age of my car.
I took it to a mechanic today (not the one who replaced the cat). He told me that the rough idling is due to the new flex pipe being shorter than what was originally there. He assured me that the car is fine to drive long distances and that there was nothing wrong with it. There's no check engine light or anything on the dash to indicate a problem.
I should be relieved, but I'm not. I've lost confidence in my car. Can the stalling noises and rough idling be explained away by a changed exhaust system? Or are these signs of a problem about to happen?
My Toyota Corolla (2004) sometimes (not always)has noise when braking, but I had the brake pads replaced and rotors resurfaced in December last year. What might be the problems?
View 2 RepliesCorolla '04: I have to press the brake pedal extremely hard to get the shifter to move out of the Park position.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2004 Toyota Corolla.
Check engine light was on so I took the car to Midas they pulled a code (133) and they said its Oxygen Sensor is not working. I took the car to Auto Zone for second opinion, Auto zone confirmed that Oxygen Sensor might be having problem. Then I inquire in couple of places for the price to fix O2 sensor, all most all places I got the same quote to fix it.And after a day or so check engine light went off. Check engine light was on for a day or so.
Now I am confused, is there a problem with Oxygen sensors? Should I still go ahead and fix these sensor or should I wait till Check engine light comes back again?
I need to find out the torque on the bolts that hold the caliper braket in place in the front of a 2004 corolla. My library does not have chiltons available. where else can i get that info?
View 18 Replies