I need to find out the torque on the bolts that hold the caliper braket in place in the front of a 2004 corolla. My library does not have chiltons available. where else can i get that info?
View 18 RepliesTell me the torque specs for the various attaching nuts of the front hub assembly for the 99 F150 4x4 5.4L (large nut on the spindle, mounting bolts to back of spindle, etc if any) ? I will need them to put everything back together after checking the tone ring for my ABS problem.
View 1 RepliesI am changing my own spark plugs for the first time. I have a spark plug wrench, dielectric grease, anti-seize compound etc.
I have a Haynes manual for my 2002 Toyota Corolla. The book was written before Irridium plugs were used. Should I tighten the spark plugs to the same torque specifications as regular plugs? The book says 158 inch pounds. How do I know I have tightened them to the right amount?
How do I avoid cross threading the spark plugs? What happens if you cross thread the spark plugs (assuming the car seems to be running fine)? Would I need a new engine or expensive repair when it is time to replace the spark plugs again?
I own a 2004 Toyota Corolla and the idle seems to be off. How can I fix that? And approximately how much would it cost me?
View 1 RepliesI ran over a rather large pot hole while driving home in the middle of the night. It destroyed my tire and tire sidewall and soon after the strut started to make a knocking noise while going over bumps. I replaced both front strut assemblies with Monroe Quick Struts (photo attached). After the install, the noise was gone and everything seemed good so I gave the car to my wife. After several months, I decided to drive the car to see if everything was still OK and it wasn't. The knocking noise on the driver front strut came back.
I took the car back to my mechanic and he said that he thinks the strut assembly was defective and that I should get a replacement since it was under warranty. I would just pay labor again for him to change it. Something seemed off by the conversation, so I decided to take the car to another mechanic for a second opinion, but before I do that I want to pose this question here. What could be the problem? Why did the knocking noise come back?
I've attached more photos. You will see two photos of the tops of the strut assemblies from under the hood. The first top photo is of the passenger left strut that is good (with the wheels straight). The second top photo is of the problematic driver front strut. You can see the top is slanted left with the wheels straight. The rest of the photos are from around the driver side wheel.
I did complete a wheel alignment after the install and the car pulls left when the steering wheel is straight after the alignment.
More information about the Monroe Quick Strut: [URL] .....
I looked around and couldn't find the specs for the valve cover bolts.. I'm assuming it'll be a pretty low torque like 20 ft-lbs.
This'll be the 2ZR-FE 1.8L engine.
The transmission drain plug torque on a 2011 Corolla s, u341e transmission.
I have heard 36ft lbs, I just feel like that is a lot and want to confirm. Any horror stories on snapping these plugs? I'm planning to get new crush washers.
Any experience with just using a fluid extractor to do multiple drain and fills from the dipstick? I've heard the tubing can sometimes melt/break off, but was considering this route to not have to deal with snapping a drain plug.
Tried searching, tried checking my hanyes manual and my factory service manual I have in pdf, neither lists a torque, or at least that I can find.
What is the ATF drain plug size and its torque spec?
View 3 RepliesMy Toyota Corolla (2004) sometimes (not always)has noise when braking, but I had the brake pads replaced and rotors resurfaced in December last year. What might be the problems?
View 2 RepliesSeveral weeks ago someone backed into my '97 RAV4 in a parking lot. Body shop charged around $900 for the repair (estimate indicates labor for both headlights, but doesn't look like they replaced them). This afternoon one of the low beam headlights burned out. I went to change both sides just to be safe. On both headlight assemblies, grasping the wire assemblies to the low beam bulbs, the headlight assembly on both the left and right side is loose within its housing. I've changed the bulbs in the past, this is something new. Take it back to the body shop? What happened????
View 7 RepliesCorolla '04: I have to press the brake pedal extremely hard to get the shifter to move out of the Park position.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2004 Toyota Corolla.
Check engine light was on so I took the car to Midas they pulled a code (133) and they said its Oxygen Sensor is not working. I took the car to Auto Zone for second opinion, Auto zone confirmed that Oxygen Sensor might be having problem. Then I inquire in couple of places for the price to fix O2 sensor, all most all places I got the same quote to fix it.And after a day or so check engine light went off. Check engine light was on for a day or so.
Now I am confused, is there a problem with Oxygen sensors? Should I still go ahead and fix these sensor or should I wait till Check engine light comes back again?
I have an '04 Corolla with 206k with a slight grinding noise from the right front when I make a left turn. Is it the outer CV joint? The noise sounds like the tire is rubbing against a splash guard but it's not.
View 3 RepliesEvery so often, my manual transmission Corolla will "overthrottle" during acceleration, especially shifting into 2nd and 3rd gears (and sometimes even 4th), i.e., the engine will race above the usual RPMs associated with each gear, just for a bit. This however, isn't consistent. I still need to check if the engine air filter is dirty, which I suspect could be a part of the issue.
The vehicle has ca. 124,975mi, and only started exhibiting this problem 2-3 months ago, and only in 2nd gear. Again, this issue is very intermittent, and sometimes I can go a week or two without any incidents at all. The regular maintenance (oil changes, cooling system maintenance, etc.) has been faithfully performed according the manufacturer's specifications.
I occasionally experience steering wheel vibration no matter what speed I'm traveling. It starts out as a small shake and eventually becomes nearly impossible to hold onto the steering wheel. On two separate occasions, the brakes have gone out.The car has passed PA state safety inspection and I have taken it to 3 different mechanics and no one can figure out what the problem is. I have had new tires and spark plugs installed, keep up with regular oil changes, etc.
2004 Toyota Corolla S, 4 cylinders, 1.81 l engine, 240,000 miles, manual transmission..
I went to go fuel up my '04 Toyota and when I turned the car back on, the radio and lighter (and the heat at first - it's working now...) were dead. What this could mean?
View 2 RepliesRecently purchased a 2004 Toyota Corolla in August. Last night coming home from a show (I'm a musician), the airbag light came on, my headlights seemed to be very dim.Eventually my car radio started to flicker and the mph and rxp meters as well as the odometer started to go up and back down and up while no juice from the gas peddle seemed to go to acceleration. Pulled over, car kinda sputtered like it was a dying battery. Turned it off. Waited tuned it back on and it tried to roll over but sounded like a dead battery again. The interior lights worked fine, all the of symbols (oil, battery engine) flashed but no ignition, radio or lighter charge .
After a long while tried again and it started with some coaxing, made it two more miles down the road and same thing happened, radio lights flicker, dim headlights, airbag light comes on, meters go crazy, lose acceleration. Waited a while, tried it, turned on, it turned on and we sat with it idling and same process happened while sitting there after just a short time. Dim headlights, Radio flicker, airbag light, meters crazy, slow lose of juice.
It has a brand new battery, it's a used car, I've been driving it with the check engine light on but have gotten it looked previously to disclose it was a sensor thing. Recently took it to the Toyota dealership for three recallsOne had to do with the airbags. After it was worked on the second time by them for two other recalls (one had to do with the door and I can't recall the other but am looking for the paper) my battery light came on. And has come off and on for about a week or two but with no trouble. Mostly in town driving. This trip I took was about at 40mi trip back and forth, it did fine up but coming home not so good. I'm not sure if it's any relation but that's the only "repairs" I've had done since purchasing the vehicle
Alternator? Bad battery? Electrical stuff?
I'm having issues with my 2004 Toyota Corolla with 118K. Every few weeks, the car will go through a phase where it will stall out, run rough and hesitate on acceleration. Oftentimes it is accompanied with the rotten egg smell coming from the catalytic converter. When I decelerate to a stop light, the car will stall. When I start it back up, I have to rev the engine to 2000 rpm in neutral to keep it from re-stalling. Once I get up to about 10-15 mph, the car will jerk and sputter, and at 40mph, the jerking motion gets worse. If the car doesn't stall it'll run rough and have the rotten egg smell. I'm assuming the smell is from unburnt gas.
I find it happens more often when I don't let the car warm up for a few minutes. I've taken it to my mechanic, and i've gone through 2 MAF sensors, cleaned the throttle body. I changed the iridium plugs at 102K and am on top of maintenance with filters, oil and such. Of course when I bring it to the mechanic, the problems don't show up, and we are kinda blind to what could be causing the issue. Also, if I park it for a day or two after the issue occurs, the problems go away. What to look for?
I've noticed water accumulated beneath the clear lens covering my headlamp assembly in my 2007 Toyota Highlander Hybrid headlamp. The dealer says the entire lamp assembly needs to be replaced. It seems this should be a simple gasket issue with the clear lens cover.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 Corolla with a Check Engine light on. The Toyota dealer diagnosed this as: "Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 1 - slow to respond".
The diagnostic code is PO133. Elsewhere, I find that this code indicates:
The oxygen sensor is faulty.
The wiring to the sensor is broken / frayed.
There is an exhaust leak
Haven't noticed exhaust leakage, and I doubt the wiring is faulty.
1) Where is sensor 1?
2) Do I really need a new sensor, or can I clean the old one?
I have a 2004 Toyota Corolla, with about 175,000 miles, and recently the heating system has been acting up. About three weeks ago the heat started to be slow coming, even when the engine was warm, but after a bit of driving it would kick in. The blower would work the whole time, but it would blow cold, instead of hot. However, no even that amount of heat has subsided, and the blower only blows cold air. On top of that, within the last week or so the engine has begun to almost overheat early in driving, but settles down a bit after driving a few miles. What might be happening?
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