Toyota - Corolla :: 2003 - Right Brake Light Burnt Out?
Oct 20, 2013
I've recently noticed that the right brake light on my 2003 corolla is not working. When I turn on the light, all the bulbs in the rear right seems to light up (except turn signal of course). when I pressed on the brake, the right brake bulb doesn't get brighter like the left one. Two questions:
1. Am I crazy when I see the brake light bulb turn on with other bulbs (i.e. is it suppose to be on when light is turn on and just get brighter when brake is pressed)?
2. Is this a burnt out bulb that I can easily replace myself or potentially a wiring problem that I may need a mechanic for?
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My dad has a 2010 Matrix base model, and we can't seem to get the driver's side burnt out bulb out. I did a Google/Bing search, as well as Youtube, but most results were about the Corolla, and the Matrix and Corolla have 2 different tail lights.
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I know that brake light usage varies by driver. However, this driver has never had to replace a brake light on any car I've owned within the first three years. I know this because several have been leased and I never had to replace any bulb.
My Treg brake light went out last week and I had to replace it. Is a shorter brake light life par for the course here? Any fancy reason? How many brake lights have you replaced?
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Just bought an 02' camry and the high mount brake light on the spoiler is half burnt out. Tried removing what I'm guessing is an LED assembly but the screws are stuck and the angle is really awkward. Am I going to have to replace the whole LED bar?
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Here's a bit of background on the car itself:
It's a 2003 corolla, 180k miles, and was sitting an entire year. About a month ago, I replaced my battery, and did an oil change. After the oil change, I started getting a few random symptoms:
loud ticking sound in my engine
check engine light with code P1349, VVT System (but it's disappeared since)
oil light on and off, intermittently.
With a bit of research on the error code, people have said to replace the VVT-i actuator. Do you think this solenoid has a large potential as the source of the issue? I purchased one for around $100 from Autozone, but am having a tough time removing it from the engine.
If you think this is the issue, how can I remove the solenoid? Do I just unbolt the one bolt I see on there and yank? Or is there something else I'm missing?
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I own a 2010 Toyota Corolla S the 1.8L 2ZR-FE engine. Today after work I started the car in a sheltered car garage and as soon as I started the car the after the initial start up sequence the check engine light stayed on and the traction control light stayed on and right next to it on the left side the "VSC Off" light kept blinking and flashing. I turned off the car and started it several times to see if that did anything and to no avail nothing happened.
While I was driving those lights stayed on and the VSC off light kept on blinking.
I also checked the brakes and the brake fluid and they all seem to be fine, I even checked the fuel door as well.
I am not sure what is wrong. I was looking at some of the complaint sites and most people say it happens when you drive through a deep puddle or if it is cold and wet outside. But that didn't make sense because I drove in the snow and those lights never turned on. The only time I used the ETS button is during the snow storms and I drive at low speeds.
I need to know why this VSC off light is blinking? Is it a bad sensor or is the ABS/ETS brake system broken or is it an ECU issue or is it because of an alignment. Since I was told to get an alignment soon.
See also: 2010 Toyota Corolla Question: Check engine light on and "VSC off" light blinking with the ETS light on.
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My 2000 Corolla CE does not have ABS, I've heard the correct way to brake is to pump the brakes. Should I press the brake slowly and then depress fully and then press again OR should I press the brake, depress half way, and press again? How fast should I pulsate it? My commute involves a lot of braking and I don't want the rotors to become warped.
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I have a '05 Corolla with around 80,000 miles on it.I've noticed for the past few weeks that it makes a weird noise when I brake. It's what I would describe as a gurgling or almost groaning sound coming from under the hood. This only happens about every other day, and only when I've slowing pressing the brake to coast to a stop or slowing on a downward slope.
Took it to one mechanic who couldn't duplicate the sound and gave up.The brake pads are relatively new and the sound is definitely not coming from the tires.
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My brake pedal squeaks when I release it, for the last two weeks. Does this mean I need maintenance, repair, or some oil?
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A few months ago I did some work to my rear wheels. I replaced the drums, shoes, springs, etc., and (though this probably isn't important) the strut assemblies. All is well. Within the last few weeks, my right rear wheel has been squeaking and squealing when I brake and just today it is so bad I am afraid to drive it. It even started to squeak (just slightly) while I drive after I let off the brakes. I just pulled the drum off and it all looked fine. I did not see any metal rubbing the drum nor did I see any unusual wear on the shoes. What the noise could be?
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Brake and Revers lights not working on 1999 Toyota Corolla? I have checked fuses and wire connections with no results. My brake and reverse lights just stopped working yesterday and I don't know what else to check.
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2013 Toyota Corolla... I drive it very gently. A friend drove it briefly and after that the brake felt a bit weird like the position had changed slightly or that the pedal was a bit loose. I tried touching it with my hand and realized that it moved from side to side. Touching it made it worse. I have no problems braking, the brakes work normally.
It's just that:1) When the brake itself is not in motion/stationary, the brake pedal wiggles a little.1) I can feel motion get transmitted through the brake now, like I'll feel it when the windshield wipers move or if I change from park into drive.
I'm guessing I just need to get the bolts/screws/etc tightened. Just afraid that if they work on it, they might make it worse (since touching it made it much worse), or that they might tighten the brake back into a different position than it was in before my friend drove the car.
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I have an '89 Corolla with a very odd leak. There is what seems to be engine fluid dripping on to the brake pedal. My oil level is good- no apparent drop in levels and it's clean- coolant is good, brake fluid is good. The leak smells a bit like engine oil, is dark gray/ black and slippery.
Local mechanic says it sounds like a bad heater core. (The heat is working great however.) I recently replaced the distributor cap and wires/ air filter as it was misfiring like nobody's business. Running fine now
This is a second car I bought a year ago to leave on the east coast for summers. it's been really reliable- ice cold AC, great heat, great gas mileage/. Did start to over heat once this summer, but not bad.
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My brake pedal clicks when depressed, only at the start of pressing down on it. (This is a 2007 Corolla CE.) It only does this when the car is cold and started doing this during the very cold below freezing weather. The brake lights are all working, nothing else seems to be a problem -- brakes work fine, no vibration, etc. Brakes were checked out two months ago.
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My 2010 Corolla has been driving normally until yesterday. Suddenly, when I started the car, the ABS, Steering, Brake and Tire Pressure lights all lit. I couldn't shift my car out of park without having to resort to the override option. When I used the override option, I was able to back up for a little bit before the steering became even tighter.
The rest of the electric seems to be working correctly; the radio was working, all the brake lights were working.
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I have a Toyota Corolla 2010 LE. When I'm driving, no matter how fast I drive, I feel a vibration sound. When I press brake pedal, it's worse than driving. I recently replaced front rotors and brake pads. I also replaced whole tires a month ago.
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I just got a 2009 Corolla S back in October. Everything is great so far. Until last weekend when I was driving uphill on the streets of San Francisco where I noticed there's a distinct burnt rubber smell coming from the right rear wheel.
Have this issue after driving on a steep climb? My first oil change is coming up soon and I'll mention this for sure with my dealership. I checked the web and the forums here and nobody have seem to mention it yet. I have an auto transmission by the way.
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So I am not sure if this is coincidence or not but... I just got done adding new stuff to my stereo in my 2006 Corolla Xrs. In the process the SRS light came on for the airbags. I took it to the dealer and was told it was the seat belt pretentioner. The dealer told me to check and make sure I did not hit any of the wiring when adding my stuff. I checked no wires or anything were cut that I can see. So, How do I fix this and what exactly does the seat belt pretentioner do?
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When i turn on the ac its cold for about a few mins and after it just starts to blow air and its not cold anymore, also it smells funny when i turn the fan on for a few seconds.
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I have a 2003 toyota corolla. For the past year I have not been able to pump a full tank of gas without the pump automatically shutting off. It has progressed to the point where I have to stand at the pump and continually restart the pump as it clicks off over and over and over.
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The AC in my 03 Corolla stopped working. A Mechanic originally diagnosed it as low in Refrigerant - brought it up to full charge. Stopped working again in a couple of days. I took it to a different mechanic who confirmed that there was no leak and it had a full charge. He could make the compressor come on by shorting a connector (located near the compressor). Otherwise the compressor does not come on when the AC is turned on from the switch inside. The blower fan works OK. The fuse is OK. The relay works OK.
The mechanic tells me that the only thing could be that the PCU ( the computer?) has gone bad and that only the dealer can replace it and reprogram it. The car has done 120,000 miles and I am wondering if its worth spending that much money to get it fixed -- that is if the PCU is the real problem. Could it be something else? Is there a way to get a used PCU and have it installed by a mechanic other than the dealer?
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