Toyota - Corolla :: 2002 - Error Codes P0171 / 0420 / 0441 And Excessive Oil Consumption
Dec 16, 2012
Actually I bought a used Corolla 2002 with 120K which seemed fine and the driving is fine. After I bought it, I just found out that the seller has removed the check engine light. When I read the ODB codes, It shows three codes of 0171, 0420, 0441. Also I have recently found out that the engine burns excessive amount of oil. (about a quarter per 200 miles). Actually the driving of the car is fine and as long as I add oil engine it seems fine.I think all of these errors might be just due to a small problem like a broken valve (since it's not high mileage). It seems that there is no vacuum leak from hoses as well.
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I just bought a used Toyota Corolla 2002 CE with 120K miles two months ago. the car seemed fine and drives fine too. After a while I found out that the seller had removed the "check engine" light, so I read the error code by a instrument and I got these errors. 171,420,441. And I noticed that the engine burn a quarter oil every 200 miles on long drives!I checked the VSV valve and connected hoses but no problem there. Since the car has just 120K miles, I'm not sure that the piston rings are worn out! I'm wondering what could cause all of these errors?
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1999 Toyota Corolla
Error codes: P0301 ... P0304 ... P0300 ... P0420
Symptoms: Car had short touch of the shakes in the morning, parked it for 8 hrs, drove half a mile, and it got the shakes bad and seems like it wants to stall out and the check engine started flashing. After a minute it went back to normal, and then the whole thing happened off and on the last half mile home.
Background: I was told the catalytic converter was in bad shape last time I took her in so I'm assuming that's it. Friend of mine suggested driving it hard to burn out impurities in the cat, but I'm worried about damaging the engine. Going to replace the sparks and spark wires (they're about due anyways).
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I have a 1999 Ford Expedition with 163,000 miles.The vehicle registers a service code of P0171 and/or P0174, lean mixture.The vehicle starts fine, but may stall or hesitate when first started or at red lights.While driving, there is no issue.
I just replaced the MAF sensor and the EGR sensor, but no change in the condition.In 2007 or 50K miles ago, the oxygen sensors were replaced. What could be the problem or solution?
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I have a 1999 B4000 V6 4.0L with 78K miles on it. I recently had P0171 and P0174 error codes come up. I replaced the MAF sensor and have not had the codes return but now the truck will basically stalls out when sitting at a stop light. It does not do it all the time just randomly. It has never done it when engine is cool but only once up to temp. The idle is smooth at cold engine but begins to get rougher once warmed up (nothing too bad just noticeable). I cleaned the IAC with MAF cleaner but no joy. I reseated all plug cables at the coil but no change. RPM around 600-700 then fluctuates up a bit then truck will stall quickly( I usually cannot put other foot on gas in time to get it to increase RPM before it dies)....
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2002 Jetta 1.8L Turbo running fine. Then one day driving on the freeway at about 70, I try to pass someone and notice when I push the gas the engine lulls. I back off the gas and accelerate slower and I can get up to speed. Drive it all the way home and its fine a t low speeds. Turn the car off and try to restart it and it wont start. Turns over but wont start. No CEL or anything else, I check the codes and I have a P0171 (Lean fuel Bank 1). Where do I start? Also car is parked in an underground garage. No chance of a tow out of this place, it may soon be a Jetta tomb.
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My car is misfiring, codes p0171 and p0300 come up on the code reader. It idles rough and has very little power. I have checked my exhaust , it is not plugged. When I unplug coil #2 while idling there is no change as to the engine performance so I switched the coils around with no difference when coil is unplugged on cylinder #2. I have changed the plugs, there is power to the coil, all plugs are firing and when removed plugs 2 and 3 are wet with fuel indicating I am getting fuel and fire. I have replaced the cam sensor with no change.
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I've been chasing this P0171 code for over a year now. STFT is normal plus minus 5 but LTFT won't go below 21.1%. At highway speeds the lowest the LTFT will go is 10-15% then goes back up to 21.1% at idle.
Things I've done:-
- New the air intake gasket to the Orange one
- Cleaned the MAF sensor
- New PCV
- Smoke test reveal nothing (vacuum is at 21-24 in-Hg) (did not smoke test the exhaust yet)
- Changed to used fuel pump. Funny thing here is that now when I shift the car to park the STFT steady increases to 25%. The old fuel pump never done this. But the car feels like it has more power now.
- New gas cap
- Cleaned TB
- Cleaned fuel injectors and flow tested
- New A/F sensor and downstream O2 sensor
All parts were either genuine Toyota parts or OEM Denso. My next course of action is to buy a new Denso fuel pump or replace the ignition coil pack.
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2002 F150 - 5.4 ... So just bought this truck about a month an a half ago. No problems but the other day the SES came on. It is showing P0171 and P0174. And P0000 (almost forgot that one) was told that's generic though. Haven't really noticed a difference in the way it's running. Has been extremely cold here in WV but the only thing I can notice (or think I notice) is the gas mileage has gone down a little. After reading some on this forum I'm looking for a vacuum leak correct?
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I have an 05 Toyota corolla, and have the check engine light on, I scanned it at autozone and error code is P0171 - System Too Lean (Bank 1). Which shows following possible causes: Faulty MAF, O2, fuel injectors blockage etc. On recommendation from the guy in autozone, I added fuel additive to clean the fuel line/ injectors. The check engine light went away for 9 months. But it is back on again. Tried putting in fuel additive again but the light remains on.
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Prius start consuming excessive engine oil.
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What is considered to be excessive oil consumption in regards to the TSB issued by Toyota for the 2.4L engine. Mine is using 2+ quarts per 5000 mile interval. It isn't leaking, so it has to be burning it somehow. It doesn't smoke visibly, but that is a lot of oil IMO (my Harley doesn't use nearly as much).
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Jeep Wrangler Owners excessive engine oil consumption [URL] .... Caused engine failure with my Jeep. Chrysler aware of problem. Local dealership stating Chrysler may not honor 100,000 mile warranty due to 1missed oil change.
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I have an old (fourth generation before 2005) and low performance bmw 316 at its 40 000 km (its been in garage for some time after it's done 19 000, then i bought it, so everything rubbery is problematic), i feel like it burns more fuel then it should considering its performance , since its almost 20 sec. from .naught to 60 , it has a more noticeable engine braking compared to my 2005 passat 1.6 (almost twice as effective), and a higher fuel consumption, when i stop the engine when idling, the rpm needle (or whatever it is, not a native speaker) drops to 0 immediately like in a millisecond or so.. no inertia no nothing, oil and everything is regularly checked up but i think there is something deeper going on.
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I bought this car off the showroom floor with about 1,200 miles on it. Since just past 70,000 miles or so, this car has been using more and more oil between changes. It now appears to be up to about 1 quart per thousand miles, maybe just 800 miles. I don't see any sign of a leak. There now are 201,000 miles on this engine. The V-tech solenoid had to be replaced about 30,000 miles back. Timing chain has never been replaced; nothing else major has been repaired. Last new PCV valve was put in about 30,000 miles back. It didn't seem to slow down oil consumption. This oil problem is the only problem with this car, except for the V-tec before, and some rattles. Otherwise it is as reliable as any car I've ever owned, and I've been around a while.
I've read many blogs and other web pages on this, and it's a common problem with this particular Honda engine. Is there any chance that this oil usage is something besides worn piston rings? Some people seem to think it might be worn valve seals, and/or worn camshaft seals? how expensive is that to get fixed? If it's any of these things, is there really any practical solution other than a new engine, or maybe a rebuilt?
Short of thousands of $ in repair costs, would a different type of oil reduce oil consumption? I read some people saying to stay away from synthetic (why would that matter?); some talk about oil treatments; one honda service manager says he puts good old STP in a high mileage, Honda, he owns. I tried that with this car, just one application, and I didn't notice any drop in consumption, but I drive a LOT, in all types of conditions, so I don't know that I gave it a real chance to work. In such an old engine, if I experiment with these, is there any chance of doing further damage to the engine? For that matter, would switching to 5W-30 or maybe a 10-weight, possibly slow down this excessive oil usage? I really don't want to buy a new car.
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So I have 95 1 liter 5 speed, it runs fine and smooth first thing, but once it gets warm it idles rough, poor mpg 33-37 and eats a lot of oil have to say a quart every 300 miles does not leak oil, does not smoke, need new muff and resonater.
Check engine light is not on. can i hook it up to hand held code reader .? 95 is it obd 2?
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I have a 2001 Jetta GL 2.0... For the past could of months I have had a mysterious oil problem. I constantly have to put oil in. I have changed it. Always put in the correct amount, right around 4qts. I have changed the head gasket, no leak there anyways and there still isn't a leak. I checked the exhaust and I'm not burning oil. I am completely stumped. What else could be happening to the oil? I just changed my oil about 1200 miles ago and I have already added another 2qts. That is just insane. I have gotten to the point where I am checking my oil every single time I drive to work and back, daily. I do all my own work and have never once noticed any leaks of any type. Something is sneaking by me though.
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I have a 2001 oldsmobile aurora 78,000 miles on original motor. the car misfires , backfires underhood,and excessive gas consumption, also sounds terrible at the rear exhaust. 3.5l motor issue stated after i filled up at cheap gas station.
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I'm in the market for a Prius and I read on carcomplaints that the 2010 model has excessive oil consumption issues. When I searched for more info about this issue, it seems that it occurs in the other model years as well. I'm wondering if I should avoid the 2010 model when looking for a used Prius, or if the trend on carcomplaints is incorrect and this issue is no worse on this model year than others. Did Toyota switch to a different piston ring in this year or are they all the same in the gen 3s?
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I have a 1996 Geo Prizm, with about 126K miles. I bought it last May, at around 120,000 miles and had no problems with it until recently, other than some minor issues with the power steering in November. In November, it started making a squeaking or grinding noise whenever I went around a sharp turn. It turned out that the power steering fluid was slightly low, so I added more and that was the end of that problem. But I also found out that the previous owner had put the wrong kind of power steering fluid in. Starting about 2 weeks ago, the car started making a squeaking or squealing noise. There would be no squeaking when I started the car, but then it would start when I turned. It is only audible when the engine is idling, and I'm not sure if it is squealing at other times, too.
I figured it was probably one of the belts, probably the power steering belt. However, I checked it and it seemed to be tight enough and did not appear cracked or glazed. A friend of mine who knows much more about cars than I do also checked the power steering, alternator, and A/C compressor pumps for me, and he said they seemed fine. About the same time the squeaking started, I noticed the car seemed to be burning a lot more fuel than usual. I have filled up the gas tank twice since then. Typically, throughout this winter, the car has gotten 33-36 miles per gallon. But on the last tank, it only got 25 MPG and it got 29 MPG on the tank before that. There has been no change in my driving habits to explain this. The engine also sounds slightly rough when it is idling, almost like a diesel engine, but no louder than the car usually sounds. My friend who checked the belts listened to it when it was idling, and he thought he heard a slight knocking sound, which I heard too.
I noticed no decline in performance: the car accelerates just as quickly as ever, and performs the way it always has. The power steering seems to function just fine, despite the squeaking. I thought that perhaps there was something wrong with the timing belt, and that might explain both the squeaking and the increased fuel burn. But I looked online at a few websites, and it sounds like timing belts usually don't show any symptoms when they are wearing out, they usually just fail without much warning. Also, when I bought the car, the previous owner said the timing belt was replaced at around 90K, so it should be fine for a while. I am at a loss as to what might be wrong with the car. I wonder if the squeaking and the increased fuel burn are caused by the same problem, or if there might be separate problems causing each.
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My girlfriend drives an 09 corolla (1.8L I believe). I have an OBDII bluetooth reader w/ Torque App so to identify the issue I can get some data:
Last week I was driving the corolla and I got P0031: HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1). Car seemed to run fine without any issues. My girlfriend brought her car in to her "mechanic". "mechanic" who will replace have of your engine only to realize that your gas cap was cracked. He apparently replaced 02 Bank 1 Sensor 2 (I'm still trying to confirm this and to get the part # to make sure). He reset the ECU and she drove for about 30 miles after which these codes popped up:
P0172: System too Rich (Bank 1)
P0101: Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance Problem
The car was idling rough. I reset the codes and the car was running fine until all monitor systems were ready. When Catalyst, 02 Heater & 02 Sensor are not ready everything is running fine and I don't see any error codes. I cleared ECU a few times. The last time I was able to drive for over 20 miles without any issues. Currently the only sensor not ready is 02 and car is running fine but I have a feeling once its ready the car will start having issues again:
Summary (if you don't want to read everything)
*P0031: H02S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1) - Car runs fine
*Mechanic replaces 02 Bank 1 Sensor 2 (Trying to find part # and double check sensor name)
*ECU reset and car runs fine for 30 miles
*P0172: System too Rich (Bank 1) and P0101: Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance Problem
*ECU reset - car sputters and hesitates
*When all monitors are ready same codes (P0172 & P0101)
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