My daughter's 2001 Corolla (3-speed transmission) is stalling in the rain. Twice in the last week it has stalled when pulling away from a stop sign. Both times she was able to restart the car and continue driving. The check engine light is not on (it works). The MAF sensor & O2 sensor (closest to the engine) were replaced last year. Would a faulty coil pack on 1 cylinder cause the car to stall?
View 2 RepliesA friend of mine owns a 2002 Toyota Corolla with around 100k miles on it and it has some sporadic problems. Once in a blue moon the engine light comes on because of a misfire and seems to be around the same time it is humid and wet out (suggesting spark plug wires). However it recently sat overnight, after a slow rain, and would not even turn over the next day. The lights are not dimmed in the car but there is only a faint hum when the key is turned. What is wrong?
View 1 RepliesMy 2010 Toyota Corolla caught fire IN THE RAIN yesterday ( Jan 9, 2014) while I was driving ..... I was lucky to get out of the car before the fire came in the passenger compartment.... Trying to find out a way to see if this has happened to other Toyotas....
View 14 RepliesI have a '97 Corolla with 198K miles... this week all of a sudden, it has a strange moisture issue. It rained some on Sunday and a little Monday morning. I got in the car to go to work, and there was fog on the inside of the instrument panel window--turning on the defroster fixed it, but that's the first time I've ever had to defrost my speedometer!Monday while I was at work, it rained a lot more.
I got in the car to go home, and it was very humid inside! I turned on the air and opened the windows for a minute, and all was fine. It hasn't rained since, but due to the moisture now the car smells pretty bad at first in the morning...I have to turn air on/open windows for a minute when I get in. What would allow moisture to get inside the instrument panel??
I'm having issues with my 2004 Toyota Corolla with 118K. Every few weeks, the car will go through a phase where it will stall out, run rough and hesitate on acceleration. Oftentimes it is accompanied with the rotten egg smell coming from the catalytic converter. When I decelerate to a stop light, the car will stall. When I start it back up, I have to rev the engine to 2000 rpm in neutral to keep it from re-stalling. Once I get up to about 10-15 mph, the car will jerk and sputter, and at 40mph, the jerking motion gets worse. If the car doesn't stall it'll run rough and have the rotten egg smell. I'm assuming the smell is from unburnt gas.
I find it happens more often when I don't let the car warm up for a few minutes. I've taken it to my mechanic, and i've gone through 2 MAF sensors, cleaned the throttle body. I changed the iridium plugs at 102K and am on top of maintenance with filters, oil and such. Of course when I bring it to the mechanic, the problems don't show up, and we are kinda blind to what could be causing the issue. Also, if I park it for a day or two after the issue occurs, the problems go away. What to look for?
I have a 1997 Corolla with 150k miles.
I had my catalytic converter and flex pipe replaced this summer. Lately, my car has been idling rough. While stuck in some horrific stop and go traffic three weeks ago, it started to make noises as if it would stall out. It didn't, but it still sometimes makes those noises.
The car seems fine on the highway. No loss of power. I did think that the hood felt too warm on a recent trip, but the temperature gauge in the car showed no issue.
The car hesitated when I tried to start it last week, but normally starts fine. It was the first cold day of the year.
I saw some white smoke come out of the tailpipe last week. It only happened once. Coolant and oil levels are fine. The spark plugs look good.
The fill pipe has been leaking gas for several months. It leaks if the tank is more than half full and it drips a bit of gas when I fill up. Two mechanics have not been able to find the leak and have told me not to replace it until it is a problem, given the age of my car.
I took it to a mechanic today (not the one who replaced the cat). He told me that the rough idling is due to the new flex pipe being shorter than what was originally there. He assured me that the car is fine to drive long distances and that there was nothing wrong with it. There's no check engine light or anything on the dash to indicate a problem.
I should be relieved, but I'm not. I've lost confidence in my car. Can the stalling noises and rough idling be explained away by a changed exhaust system? Or are these signs of a problem about to happen?
I have a 2001 Toyota celica GT auto. It has 120k miles. I seem to have an issue that really is not causing a problem except for annoyance. After coming to a stop the car seems to exhibit the signs of stalling (car idles rough, shakes a bit) however the car never stalls. Once I start driving all is well. Now I took it to the dealer and they replaced the Idle Air Control Valve which is under the throttle body. They said it was getting stuck and due to the higher mileage possible. It was replaced and the problem is still there. The funny thing is even though the car exhibits these stalling symptoms the idle does not drop below 500 rpm (both dealer and I have verified this).
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 Toyota Corolla. It's been a fine car, but has one problem--since 2003, when we bought it (used by an old lady who drove it only to the grocery store and to church once in a while), it's been using more oil than it should--more than a quart every 1,000 miles. It doesn't smoke, and there are no leaks, so it must be burning oil. My husband says it may be because the first owner (that old lady) didn't break it in according to your recommendations, and we'll always have this problem with the car. What do you think? Is there any way to cure it?
View 8 RepliesI have 2001 Toyota Corolla which has 100k plus miles on it. I have recurrence problem with car not starting. After i jump start, it works. I took it to mechanic to get its battery(2 year old) and alternator checked out. The mechanic looked at it, and told me everything is working just fine. He started it and i was able to start it. Problem solved for a couple of weeks.
However, yesterday getting out from work, It came back. Had to jump start and make it work again. is there something i am not doing correctly?
I've been getting a P0133 trouble code on my 2001 Toyota Corolla and am stumped as to what is causing it. I've ruled out the obvious stuff: I replaced the upstream O2 sensor and can vouch for the lack of exhaust leaks, since I replaced the entire exhaust system myself a few months back and checked again for leaks after getting the code a few weeks back. I haven't replaced the spark plugs yet (they're definitely overdue) or cleaned the MAF sensor (I've heard that these could be the culprits) and will probably do both this weekend.
View 3 RepliesI've had this 2001 toyota corolla for about 2 years now and its been sputtering ever since i got it. it usually happen when i start the car first thing in the morning, idle is usually fine but as soon as i put it in drive and give it a little gas it sputters, sometimes almost shuts downs. it has given my beautiful wife quite a few scares when pulling out on a busy street, by pretty much stopping in mid pull-out! so later on in the day it isnt as bad, usually just when we gas it to take off or pass someone.
But it ALWAYS does it when we go up the mountains here in PA, sometimes i cant go more than 35mph. Its been 2 years, im tired of this, i just had the second mechanic look at it without success. both times they said i had bad plugs. so i changed em. ive looked in forums and through that i learned that i can clean the MAF, i did, and i think its a little better, but not enough to see too much difference.
For What Its Worth: it consumes oil, almost a quart a week, and that is with an approx 500 mi per week. But no symptoms,(no blue smoke out the tail pipe and no spots on the garage floor)
My '01 Corolla occasionally makes a soft groaning noise after the car is in park and turned off. It doesn't happen all the time, and I haven't been able to correlate it with anything. The noise seems to be coming from the front somewhere. I took it to my mechanic but of course it wouldn't do it for him. What might be causing this?
View 14 RepliesIn january I took my 2001 Toyota corolla to the mechanic (that had replaced the engine 5 years ago) because it was using oil and gas mileage was very poor. He gave the car and tune up and right afterward I noticed the car hesitated for just a second within the first mile of driving. After the hesitation it had full power.
Then the check engine light came on with a code for O2 sensor; I had that part replaced about 2-3 years ago. So that was replaced. The next day I was driving on the highway when I heard a pop and lights came on everywhere. The car ran, but when I stopped, it was smoking and wouldn't start. AAA towed it and said the water pump broke and took the serpentine belt with it, and I had it repaired there.
Car continued to to the "hesitation" thing, but I learned to live with it, until 4 weeks later it lost power and wouldn't go more than 5 miles an hour. Very dangerous! Also the check engine light came on - O2 sensor again. The original mechanic towed it back to his shop, has had it over a month. Say sometimes it runs fine and sometimes it really hesitates. My son took the plugs out and said they didn't look new and replaced them with best quality new plugs (mechanic said the plugs looked worn due to problems reported).
He's been a mechanic his whole career and still can't find out the problem. He checked the MAF and said it's fine. I can't afford to put more money into it, but it's worth nothing but junk value now after putting over $1000 into it. I didn't have these issues before I took it to him in January. He has a good reputation, but I don't know what gives.
Is this all a coincidence that it happened at once? What could have happened?
My 2001 Corolla gurgles when I step on the brakes. It seems to be getting louder and louder. This has been going on for 4 months or so..... I'm afraid somethings going to blow.....This happens when the car has been running for a while. I went to the garage, turned the car off and waited for 10 minutes to talk to the mechanic.Of course when I turned it on there was no noise when I stepped on the brake pedal...the mechanic wants me to bring it in this week. What this could be?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2001 Toyota corolla with 150k. If I rev the engine with the car in neutral and my foot off the clutch, it starts to shake at about 2-2.1k rpm. It will also start to shake at 2.5-2.9k rpm when the car is in gear (I can feel it in any gear but it's most noticeable in 5th gear on the freeway).
I just replaced the spark plugs (I know, should have done that a while ago...) but it still has the same vibration. I'll be doing a compression test later today, but I did take a few minutes to check out the motor while the hood was up. I set up a camera and recorded the car from start up and hit 2.1k rpm a few times. The vibration isn't visible but the engine jumped a little right at start up.
Are the motor mounts bad? I've had that same vibration but a lot less intense since I've had the car, but it recently got a little worse.
I uploaded the video to youtube. Search "corollaprincess361"
My Corolla recently started making a sporadic knocking sound when braking. It only seems to happen infrequently, but a couple of times I have noticed it happening when I go over a bump or crack in the road. Any clues as to what the issue might be?
View 5 RepliesThe car had been idling a little rough lately and I'd noticed a drop in MPG. After trying a few easy fixes I finally replaced the O2 sensor a few weeks ago. The idle has leveled out but ever since then I've been getting periodic hesitant-to-non-existent acceleration. Sometimes it works just fine (better than it's been in years, actually) but then sometime it will take forever to accelerate from a stop.
I'll give it some gas and it will just roll forward at barely more than an idle for half-a-block until something kicks in and it levels out around 30mph. This doesn't happen consistently though and I can't see much of a pattern in when it happens or why. It seems to work a little if I ease into the gas very gently, and it is worse when I try to gun it. I was worried it might be the fuel injectors or the ignition coils.
About 2 weeks ago my 1997 Buick Park Ave (115,000 miles) began running bad during a heavy rain storm. It was running fine. Then all of a sudden at a stop light the motor hesitated and wanted to stall. I nursed the gas peddle and limped home and turned the car off. The car hesitated and sputtered all the way home as if I was running out of gas.The next day the car would not start. It turned over but would not start. I tried starting the car for three days. My mechanic friend later diagnosed the car and stated the computer was not functioning correctly. He replaced the computer. The new computer seemed to correct the problem.
The car ran great for the next 2 weeks. Yesterday, it was raining hard while I drove the car about 150 miles without any problem. Then suddenly again the motor started running badly. Again, the motor wanted to stall and hesitate as if I was running out of gas. I limped home again. This morning I tried to start the car without any luck. In addition to installing a new computer, In the last 2 months I have changed all the fuel injectors and installed new spark plugs.I have also changed the fuel pump and repaired the fuel tank. My mechanic say the cam sensor and crank sensor are operating correctly. There is spark coming from the coil packs and to the spark plugs. I do not want to randomly change parts.
Mine is toyota corolla - 2001 VE model. It has 116K miles in it.
It hesitates nowadays to pickup after a long idle time, say in morning when i start to work or when i leave from work to home(idle time of 8 to 10 hrs). I noticed this problem only during very high temp, say atleast 80F.
Hesitation will be there for 4 or 5 secs and will not move even if i give full acceleration, but after that it moves normally.
Car has automatic transmission and i only see this i put it to Drive(D or D2) and not when i do reverse.
I have a 2001 Toyota Corolla with a manual transmission. There are two things going on. I’m not sure if they’re related, but I thought I’d disclose all information in case they are. When I’m fueling, the automatic shut off triggers after a few seconds. When I try to reengage it and hold the pump manually, it overflows. This forces me to squirt a little bit at a time and let it flow into the tank so it doesn’t overflow. I have tried a few gas stations with the same results.The other issue is when I need to accelerate from a stop sign, light or just stopped in traffic. I start out in first gear and the gas doesn’t seem to engage until I really rev the engine. It’s almost like nothing is happening. Most of the time I get out of the starting blocks ok. Some of the time, it’s like I’ve popped the clutch and the engine turns off. I’d be comfortable with taking the blame for being a crappy standard driver, but I have been able to drive all my other standards with no issue.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2001 Toyota Corolla 5 speed manual that is having a hard time picking up speed, but the engine will rev as high as your willing to push down the pedal. The engine runs well its just not affecting the speed of the car very quickly. We replaced the MAF sensor recently and it made little to no difference.
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