Toyota - Corolla :: 2001 - P0133 Code Comes On
Sep 7, 2012
I've been getting a P0133 trouble code on my 2001 Toyota Corolla and am stumped as to what is causing it. I've ruled out the obvious stuff: I replaced the upstream O2 sensor and can vouch for the lack of exhaust leaks, since I replaced the entire exhaust system myself a few months back and checked again for leaks after getting the code a few weeks back. I haven't replaced the spark plugs yet (they're definitely overdue) or cleaned the MAF sensor (I've heard that these could be the culprits) and will probably do both this weekend.
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I have a 01 elantra. Check engine light is on. Diags say p0133 o2 sensor slow bank 1 #1. Any way I have replaced the front sensor. Actually now I have 3 of them. The exhaust does not leak. New gaskets on the converter. New flex pipe and everything has been welded.
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My 1999 Saturn SL2 recently showed the "Service Engine Soon" light. I brought it to Autozone for a code scan. They told me it is P0133, and could be due to a bad oxygen sensor. The only two pieces of info I have is that:
a) my car recently passed emission test mandated by my county, and the Service Engine Soon light comes on about a week AFTER the check
b) my car usually runs fine with no problem, only that my wife notes that it starts to "shake" when I drives over 65MPH or turns on cruise control. I have noticed a slight drop in fuel economy - from 22.5-24.5MPG to around 21MPG
Not sure if it is worth the money for the repair. If it were indeed the O2 sensor problem, what might happen if I don't replace it?
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I have a 1997 Ford Ranger with a 4.0L 2WD. The check engine light just turned on with a code of p0133. I know that this is something with the bank 1 sensor 1. I tried doing some research and I think that it is on the passenger side before the cat converter. Now, I don't know what to do from there. How do I go about fixing this? What part do I need? How do I fix it?
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I get this code, p171, every so often on my corolla. I have cleaned the MAF and finally changed it with one bought at AutoZone. I still get the code. What should I do next?
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My 2000 Forester has 96,000 miles on it. A few months ago, the CEL came on. At first it would turn off every couple of days but would eventually pop back on. I first thought it was tied to putting gas in the car, now I think it was just a coincidence.
Over the past two months, I have replaced the catalytic converter with a aftermarket piece (done by a mom and pop muffler shop) and replaced the front o2 sensor three times. The first two times, I used Bosch sensors from an auto parts store and had the code cleared. After about 50 miles the CEL came back on. Just yesterday, I picked my car up from the dealership where they installed a Subaru fron o2. After about 30 miles, the light is back on again. Code is P0133 - heated oxygen sensor, bank 1 sensor 1, circuit slow response.
Now, the dealership is suggesting I need to replace the catalytic converter with a Subaru converter before they can source the issue.
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Got a 1996 Volkswagen Cabrio with around 125k miles. Recently the check engine light came on. Had the code pulled (P0133 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response) and reset but it came back on shortly thereafter. I've also noticed that the car idles strangely, generally after it has warmed up a little bit. Basically it will idle rough and sound as though it might choke out but if you give it a little gas it goes back to a normal, even idle.
Right now it's getting around 20+ MPG average which seems a little low but I only purchased it 3 months ago so I don't have much to compare it against. One other thing I've noticed is that the plastic molding around where the gas nozzle goes in is cracked which makes it difficult to fill it up since it doesn't make a good seal unless you position the gas nozzle just right.
Any thoughts on whether either of these problems might be related to the weird idle? How hard is it to change the front 02 sensor?
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After a new distributor, check engine light coming on, getting a code 52, they (Toyota Dealership) replaced knock sensor. Unfortunately it seems to improve a little bit, but same issues happen; engine not running smooth at times. 94 Corolla. In the 223,000 mile club. 1.6
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I have a 2002 Toyota Corolla. On a hot day (the first in a while), I got a check engine light for P0125. I'm going to clear it and see if it comes back. I think it is a false alarm for insufficient engine coolant. If the code and check engine light come back, what should I do?
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Still P0303 code after: New spark plugs, new spark plug wiring, new coils, new injectors, full tune up. 99 Corolla 147,000 miles. What else could it be? o2 senor? or maybe intake manifold leak? valve leak? what am I missing?
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I've been chasing this P0171 code for over a year now. STFT is normal plus minus 5 but LTFT won't go below 21.1%. At highway speeds the lowest the LTFT will go is 10-15% then goes back up to 21.1% at idle.
Things I've done:-
- New the air intake gasket to the Orange one
- Cleaned the MAF sensor
- New PCV
- Smoke test reveal nothing (vacuum is at 21-24 in-Hg) (did not smoke test the exhaust yet)
- Changed to used fuel pump. Funny thing here is that now when I shift the car to park the STFT steady increases to 25%. The old fuel pump never done this. But the car feels like it has more power now.
- New gas cap
- Cleaned TB
- Cleaned fuel injectors and flow tested
- New A/F sensor and downstream O2 sensor
All parts were either genuine Toyota parts or OEM Denso. My next course of action is to buy a new Denso fuel pump or replace the ignition coil pack.
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I have a 2001 Toyota Corolla. It's been a fine car, but has one problem--since 2003, when we bought it (used by an old lady who drove it only to the grocery store and to church once in a while), it's been using more oil than it should--more than a quart every 1,000 miles. It doesn't smoke, and there are no leaks, so it must be burning oil. My husband says it may be because the first owner (that old lady) didn't break it in according to your recommendations, and we'll always have this problem with the car. What do you think? Is there any way to cure it?
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About two weeks ago, while driving on a hot, humid summer night, the check engine light in my 1998 Toyota Corolla came on. The following day, I took it into my mechanic, who plugged it in and came up with the code P0441 (Purge flow fault). He told me it was likely related to the fuel vapor canister, though I see this can also have to do with vacuum lines for the purge valve and canister or a bad purge valve itself. My gas cap was, and had been, tight, so it wasn't something as simple as that.
Reluctant to deal with this immediately, I went back to driving it, and lo and behold - the light went off after several days! Unfortunately, the light came BACK ON after several more. And most recently (a few days after coming on again), the light has now gone off!
Both times the light has gone off, the weather has been rather wet, but otherwise, there doesn't seem to be a clear pattern. What this on again off again pattern might say about the problem?
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I have 2001 Toyota Corolla which has 100k plus miles on it. I have recurrence problem with car not starting. After i jump start, it works. I took it to mechanic to get its battery(2 year old) and alternator checked out. The mechanic looked at it, and told me everything is working just fine. He started it and i was able to start it. Problem solved for a couple of weeks.
However, yesterday getting out from work, It came back. Had to jump start and make it work again. is there something i am not doing correctly?
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I have a 2003 Toyota Corolla, mileage app. 106,000. Check engine light first came on when driving to destination 40+ miles away (most of my driving is shorter, around-town trips). My mechanic said code is P0420 and so they reset it and said if it comes on again that I need a new cat converter. It did not come on until about 6 weeks later when I was on a longer trip again (had driven about 40-50 miles). Can you tell me if the P0420 code absolutely means that a new cat. conv. is needed or if it could possibly be a sensor or something else hopefully less costly than a new cc?
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My daughter's 2001 Corolla (3-speed transmission) is stalling in the rain. Twice in the last week it has stalled when pulling away from a stop sign. Both times she was able to restart the car and continue driving. The check engine light is not on (it works). The MAF sensor & O2 sensor (closest to the engine) were replaced last year. Would a faulty coil pack on 1 cylinder cause the car to stall?
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I've had this 2001 toyota corolla for about 2 years now and its been sputtering ever since i got it. it usually happen when i start the car first thing in the morning, idle is usually fine but as soon as i put it in drive and give it a little gas it sputters, sometimes almost shuts downs. it has given my beautiful wife quite a few scares when pulling out on a busy street, by pretty much stopping in mid pull-out! so later on in the day it isnt as bad, usually just when we gas it to take off or pass someone.
But it ALWAYS does it when we go up the mountains here in PA, sometimes i cant go more than 35mph. Its been 2 years, im tired of this, i just had the second mechanic look at it without success. both times they said i had bad plugs. so i changed em. ive looked in forums and through that i learned that i can clean the MAF, i did, and i think its a little better, but not enough to see too much difference.
For What Its Worth: it consumes oil, almost a quart a week, and that is with an approx 500 mi per week. But no symptoms,(no blue smoke out the tail pipe and no spots on the garage floor)
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My '01 Corolla occasionally makes a soft groaning noise after the car is in park and turned off. It doesn't happen all the time, and I haven't been able to correlate it with anything. The noise seems to be coming from the front somewhere. I took it to my mechanic but of course it wouldn't do it for him. What might be causing this?
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In january I took my 2001 Toyota corolla to the mechanic (that had replaced the engine 5 years ago) because it was using oil and gas mileage was very poor. He gave the car and tune up and right afterward I noticed the car hesitated for just a second within the first mile of driving. After the hesitation it had full power.
Then the check engine light came on with a code for O2 sensor; I had that part replaced about 2-3 years ago. So that was replaced. The next day I was driving on the highway when I heard a pop and lights came on everywhere. The car ran, but when I stopped, it was smoking and wouldn't start. AAA towed it and said the water pump broke and took the serpentine belt with it, and I had it repaired there.
Car continued to to the "hesitation" thing, but I learned to live with it, until 4 weeks later it lost power and wouldn't go more than 5 miles an hour. Very dangerous! Also the check engine light came on - O2 sensor again. The original mechanic towed it back to his shop, has had it over a month. Say sometimes it runs fine and sometimes it really hesitates. My son took the plugs out and said they didn't look new and replaced them with best quality new plugs (mechanic said the plugs looked worn due to problems reported).
He's been a mechanic his whole career and still can't find out the problem. He checked the MAF and said it's fine. I can't afford to put more money into it, but it's worth nothing but junk value now after putting over $1000 into it. I didn't have these issues before I took it to him in January. He has a good reputation, but I don't know what gives.
Is this all a coincidence that it happened at once? What could have happened?
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My 2001 Corolla gurgles when I step on the brakes. It seems to be getting louder and louder. This has been going on for 4 months or so..... I'm afraid somethings going to blow.....This happens when the car has been running for a while. I went to the garage, turned the car off and waited for 10 minutes to talk to the mechanic.Of course when I turned it on there was no noise when I stepped on the brake pedal...the mechanic wants me to bring it in this week. What this could be?
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I have an 05 Toyota corolla, and have the check engine light on, I scanned it at autozone and error code is P0171 - System Too Lean (Bank 1). Which shows following possible causes: Faulty MAF, O2, fuel injectors blockage etc. On recommendation from the guy in autozone, I added fuel additive to clean the fuel line/ injectors. The check engine light went away for 9 months. But it is back on again. Tried putting in fuel additive again but the light remains on.
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