Toyota - Corolla :: 2000 - Horn Works Intermittently Since New?
Sep 2, 2012
I inherited my Mother's 2000 Corolla CE with low mileage. I know that since the car was knew, she had the dealer check on why the horn did not blow every time she pressed it. I do not have those repair papers, so I do not know what they did to the car. Again, after each of 3 visits to the dealer, the horn would work for a few months. Finally, she gave up. Arizona does not test the horn, anyway. So, now, I am having the problem. (Also in my V90 Volvo post). Two cars with no horns.. Short of pulling out the air bag and the wires? Bad ground somewhere?
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The AC in my 2000 Toyota ECHO died a couple of years ago. With the record heat this year, we finally decided to get it fixed. On the first try, the mechanic thought it just needed some adjustment and recharge, and we wanted to save money, so we went that route. Didn't work--kept blowing the fuse. The mechanic advised that we'd need a new compressor. We obtained a remanufactured compressor and had the mechanic install it. Seemed to work OK at first, but now it works only intermittently, with no apparent rhyme or reason. I'm wondering whether it was a mistake not to replace the condenser and drier as well. (Obviously, we were trying to fix it on the cheap!) If we replace the condenser and drier now (about 3 weeks after replacing the compressor), is that likely to fix the problem?
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My car was performing poorly then Stalled while driving, no start since. Put starting fluid in open throttle body for 5 secs, then tried to crank.
fuel pump doesn't turn on (can hear it) for 2 seconds When the Ignition switch is in ON position, You can hear it when cranking in Run position though. So this makes me think that Its not building enough pressure
Pulled it out, hooked it up to a 12V batt and it works.
Someone else changed the spark plugs. Fuel comes of of the line just before the fuel rail. Doesn't squirt like there's a lot of pressure.
Pulled the injectors clean them put them back in with new O rings. Fuel only came out of 2 injectors when cranking.
Pulled the spark plugs check for spark while cranking. They all spark. Put new ones in.
Pump does send fuel when cranking which means the pump, and pump relay should be working I assume.
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I just purchased the car a few weeks ago. Horn doesn't work till I press about a dozen times and "get lucky".. Once it hits once I can usually beep about 4 times before losing it. I checked the fuse, looks fine. Haven't found the relay yet.
I suspect it is something in the switching/contacts/ground in the steering column. What I may need to replace in steering column?
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99 Toyota Avalon's horn works intermittently, seems to like the winter better than the summer. In the Summer it barely works and works more so in colder months but it is still not dependable. Replaced the relay fuse but that did not fix the problem. normally I don't use the horn so I thought it was because of that reason.
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One day off the lot, and my new PriusV touch screen works intermittently. Problem resolves it self when power is cycled in the vehicle. Should we request a new head unit?
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Toyota Cressida 1981 5ME sedan. Problems with drivers kick panel fuse, breaker block due to water damage and ?. Long story! Some things ( windows, heater etc) work sometimes for months then dont work. Turn signals were first blew two fuses then quit. Flashers fine. Horn stopped then caught up at next left turn. etc. etc. Have replaced, tested, cleaned and am still doing so. At one time every warning light was lit. now only battery light is on, battery is charging. Windows and heater quit, they worked two weeks ago. and Haynes book and owners manual are incomplete and confusing.No Chiltons for this car. Had power steering pump replaced last year, mechanic moved, knocking noise began again in 2 months got worse. Just last week figured out that the nut on the power steering pump pulley was gone.
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I just bought a Toyota Corilla (2005). The rear window defrost works in a way but it does not melt the snow/ice. Is it normal? I used to have American cars, and the defroster always melted snow quickly.
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I recently bought a 2010 Toyota Corolla. I have been having some issues with the A/C. The A/C seems to work fine when the car is moving but when it is idle it gets warmer. I have recently gotten the freon checked and they put in some more but that didn't work, same problem still happening. Somebody told me that i need a extra fan which didn't make sense to me. Last resort will be to take it to the dealership to have them check. Once again the A/C blows cold air when the car is going over 50 MPH.
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Periodically my 1994 Toyota Corolla 5-speed manual will not start. Other times it seems to hesitate before starting. The rest of the time it starts fine.
When it does not start: I turn the key, and hear the fuel pump relay click, and hear the fuel pump on the gas tank energize, but the car does not try to crank. I do not know if the starter solenoid is engaging at this time, as I could not listen for it while in the car. When I did try to listen for it while under the hood with someone else starting the car, it actually started (did not exhibit the issue)
When it hesitates before starting: However, sometimes, when I turn the key I hear the fuel pump relay click and the fuel pump energize, after about 1-1/2 seconds of holding the key, it does start.
When it does start it sounds normal, not like a low battery. The battery is new. I had the charging system checked at Advance Auto and they said the battery was good as was the alternator and starter. Plenty of cranking amps.
I disconnected the main wire on the starter motor and cleaned it with a wire brush. I also cleaned up the battery terminals.
I did find that the switch on the clutch pedal that allows the car to start when pressed has some fluid leaking on it (clutch fluid I think). Could that be causing the intermittent starting issue? If so, can I just clean it with WD-40 or something like that?
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My 1995 corolla door would not close. I looked and discovered that the 3 screws holding the door lock mechanism in place were gone. I went to the hardware and bought 3 new screws and installed them. The door shut and now it will not open at all. It was opening intermittently, so I bought shorter screws and put them in and now it will not open at all. The screws are flush with the door. The door is not stuck, you can feel that it is locked, so forcing it will not work. Climbing in and out over the passenger seat is quickly losing it's appeal. Monday I am taking the door apart from the inside.
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My Toyota Corolla, 2006 keeps dying after long periods of sitting. Coincidentally (?) the issue has only occurred on weekends, after my 8-hour afternoon work shift. The first 2 occasions it made a quick clicking sound when I tried to start it (6 and 5 weeks ago, respectively). I replaced the battery; it was old. Then, the same issue happened two weeks ago. I had the battery checked at the site of purchase, where they also checked the alternator. Both reps advised me the parts showed up good on their meters. It died again the next day. So, I had a mechanic check every fuse and relay in the car to look for a draw on the battery using an amp meter. Readings indicated no significant drop in current draining from the battery while any were unplugged. . . I don't use a remote control unlock button (one professional seemed to think this might be relevant), and I have checked to make sure no lights were left on, even in the trunk. (Also note - I have seen no drop in performance when driving vehicle, nor any change in air conditioning or light brightness). I'm lost where to take it from here.
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I bought 2008 Corolla S 5 speed with 62K miles. Now have 135K miles. When shifting up into 3rd gear, a grinding occurs intermittently, more often as miles accumulate. I try to make sure clutch pedal is fully depressed. No problems occur with other forward gears, up or down. What the problem might be and/or what can be done to fix? This is the sixth car I have owned with manual transmission. Never a problem like this!
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Here's a bit of background on the car itself:
It's a 2003 corolla, 180k miles, and was sitting an entire year. About a month ago, I replaced my battery, and did an oil change. After the oil change, I started getting a few random symptoms:
loud ticking sound in my engine
check engine light with code P1349, VVT System (but it's disappeared since)
oil light on and off, intermittently.
With a bit of research on the error code, people have said to replace the VVT-i actuator. Do you think this solenoid has a large potential as the source of the issue? I purchased one for around $100 from Autozone, but am having a tough time removing it from the engine.
If you think this is the issue, how can I remove the solenoid? Do I just unbolt the one bolt I see on there and yank? Or is there something else I'm missing?
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My beloved 2000 Toyota Echo has started to stall intermittently. It has worked with no problems for the past 100k miles that I've owned it (purchased used with 40k already.) What happens is that while driving I hear a little click, everything shuts down for a second or so, the red idiot light lights up for a few seconds then clears. It's never lasted more than a few seconds and everything goes right back to normal. And it's only happened maybe a dozen times in the last three months. But it makes me nervous since I have to travel over major bridges and through tunnels regularly where I live.
The stalls usually seemed to occur after the engine has heated up, but I just had an exception this morning. Since I noticed the fan never goes on after long trips anymore, I just had the thermostat replaced but that didn't fix.
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We also noticed when depressing the horn to actuate it in the straight position, there is hardly any movement. When in a rotated position, there is a definite actuating movement or depression of the horn. There something happening when it's a straight position, the horn is being prevented from making contact so the horn will work.
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2000 toyota corolla feels like it has no brakesI had the brake master cylinder replaced a few months ago - so that's not itThe mechanic also replaced the shoes - so that's not itAfter I told him it still feels like the is low etc. he adjusted them or something - so that's not itIt still feels the sameWhat should I do?
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I have a 2000 Corolla with 51k miles that I bought a couple of months ago.
Things I replaced:- both front ball joints- both front CV axles (half shaft)...previous left front one was leaking- all struts (complete struts that included coil, strut, mount)- all sway bar end links- 4 new tires (only put 200 miles on them)- balance and alignment - Firestone checked for bent rims - none found- Made sure all 4 PSI levels are 30
Before the new tires, there was a vibration at 60-70mph, after the new tires, there is a vibration at 40-50..seems to go away at 60-70mph. When braking, the steering wheel shimmied (turn left/right short distances rapidly)...replacing the ball joints fixed that....the mechanic also tightened the front control arms..that could've fixed it too.
When going very slowly over a flat road, I can feel the front left tire "hop" very slightly. By hop, I mean that it is not round like (seems like a high spot). I jacked all 4 wheels and checked for any amount of play - none.
Could this be an out of balance (even though I put 4 new tires) or control arm issue? Maybe the control arm bushings are gone and it allows vertical movement during load?
When turning the steering wheel left, it also makes a "pop" sound which is definitely coming from the strut mount area...might be related.
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My 2000 Corolla CE does not have ABS, I've heard the correct way to brake is to pump the brakes. Should I press the brake slowly and then depress fully and then press again OR should I press the brake, depress half way, and press again? How fast should I pulsate it? My commute involves a lot of braking and I don't want the rotors to become warped.
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I have a 2000 Toyota corolla with about 170,000 miles and it is using about one quart of oil every 500 miles. The last couple places I took it to said the compression was bad in the number 4 cylinder. Another place said it was a leaking head gasket. Which is most likely, and is it worth getting it repaired given its age and mileage?
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I have a 2000 toyota corolla, with 1.8 16 valve. 105,000 miles, manual trans.. Just bought this veh. says misfire cylinder 4. So here is what I have done.
I started trouble shooting. swapping coils from cylinder 4 to other cylinders to see if the code follows after clearing it. No, stayed at 4..
So I moved on to the fuel injector. I did the same thing to see if it followed.. no stayed at cylinder 4. I changed the plugs, stilll misfire..
I did a compression check, I have 170 on 1,2,3, and on cylinder 4 I have 0. Yep, none...
I have some black smoke when the car is under load, as in acceleration, shaking and constant miss. lack of power... Trying to determine whether it is the rings or valves or what.. I took valve cover off and checked for broken spring, and they all seem ok. No oil in my coolant or vise versa.
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