Toyota - Corolla :: 2000 - Clicking Sound On Restart
Mar 6, 2012
I drove my car to the store today without any problems. When I started it back up again, I noticed a clicking sound. At first I thought that maybe I had turned on the turn signal or the emergency blinkers, but neither was on. I turned off the car and restarted it. The clicking restarted when I turned the car back on. I tried turning off my headlights, and the clicking got louder. I turned them back on and it got quieter.
At that point I decided to just drive home. The clicking stopped and restarted several times during my trip. I checked the oil, and it's fine. What could be making the noise?
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I have a 2000 corolla ce with 51k miles I bought recently.
While going to work this morning, I had to hard brake from 50mph. The car slid several feet but came to a safe stop.
Now when I'm driving, my right wheel is clicking....like a light clicking noise. Could hard braking have damaged the wheel bearing or cv joint?
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My brake pedal clicks when depressed, only at the start of pressing down on it. (This is a 2007 Corolla CE.) It only does this when the car is cold and started doing this during the very cold below freezing weather. The brake lights are all working, nothing else seems to be a problem -- brakes work fine, no vibration, etc. Brakes were checked out two months ago.
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My Corolla seems to be dying on me. What could be wrong with it.
It burns oil (a lot: 1.5 liters on 380 km). Black/ blue? smoke from the exhaust.
Idles very low at times (800rpm) and a little high at other times (1300rpm?).
Jerks / stutters while driving (since valve cover gasket (I think that was the one) was changed, due to burning of oil)
Clicking sounds while accelerating.
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There is an unbearable clicking sound coming from underneath the glovebox. Already tried removing blower motor to see if there were mouse droppings, paper bits anything -- it was clean. What this could be?
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My 2000 Toyota Corolla is making a knocking sound that gets worse when the car is in idle and in drive. I have a feeling that it is dying, but is it unsafe?
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My 1990 Toyota Corolla which I hate to retire has only 64,000 miles on it. Starts and runs but while I am driving the dash lights up and the engine shuts off and won't restart. He thinks it is the NEC (?) switch but he said he is not really sure. Spending all that money and then finding out it is not fixed would not be worth it. It also is dangerous what if I am on the expressway?
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My 2000 Toyota Camry V6 died while driving the other day. At the shop they were able to start it but said it was misfiring but it didn't cut off when they were driving it. They recommended a tune-up to replace spark plugs and "wires" but admitted they weren't sure what the problem was. I haven't had a tune-up in awhile, actually not sure when the last time I had one was (if ever!). Would this cause it to die while driving?
Should I invest in a tune-up even if it doesn't fix the problem?The battery is about 3 months old. The master and slave cylinder were recently replaced (about 6 months ago), timing belt and water pump and hoses were replaced a couple of years ago.I have high miles, about 260,000 and love this car and have needed very little work and has been a very reliable car. Would love to continue driving it!!
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I have 2003 Toyota corolla. Recently one of the relay from the fuse box under the steering wheel started making clicking noise. I got it fixed from my mechanic by replacing it twice. When my mechanic checked for codes, he found that there was some problem with igniter circuit and car's motor is not able to generate enough power. I have observed that whenever I try turning on the heater, the relay also starts making clicking noise. I got it diagnosed from a professional auto electrician but he was also not able to find the fault and now the check engine is on all the time and flashes some time. I don't know how to fix my car.
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I had the front right wheel bearing replaced on my Toyota Corolla (60,000 miles) replaced a couple days ago. One day after the repair, I heard a high pitched clicking noise which was noticeable around 20-30 mph. Yesterday, I still noticed the high-pitched sound but also a grinding/popping sound in front left side when coming to a stop upon every rotation of the tire. Took the car back to the shop to let them listen to the noise, but really weren't very compliant since it doesn't sound like a wheel bearing problem.
Here is YouTube link to noise car is making : [URL] .....
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My 2010 toyota corolla LE headliner makes a clicking sound in the back. This usually happens when I go over a rough road.
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Temp control is stuck, but when it reaches over 55 degrees or so, it goes back to normal. Have a very slight clicking sound/feel when it is normal. Toyota wants 10 hours labor up front.
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My 09 Corolla makes a groaning sound when I stop....sometimes. I have had the front brakes replaced and the rear cleaned but it still makes that sound...
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2000 toyota corolla feels like it has no brakesI had the brake master cylinder replaced a few months ago - so that's not itThe mechanic also replaced the shoes - so that's not itAfter I told him it still feels like the is low etc. he adjusted them or something - so that's not itIt still feels the sameWhat should I do?
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I have a 2000 Corolla with 51k miles that I bought a couple of months ago.
Things I replaced:- both front ball joints- both front CV axles (half shaft)...previous left front one was leaking- all struts (complete struts that included coil, strut, mount)- all sway bar end links- 4 new tires (only put 200 miles on them)- balance and alignment - Firestone checked for bent rims - none found- Made sure all 4 PSI levels are 30
Before the new tires, there was a vibration at 60-70mph, after the new tires, there is a vibration at 40-50..seems to go away at 60-70mph. When braking, the steering wheel shimmied (turn left/right short distances rapidly)...replacing the ball joints fixed that....the mechanic also tightened the front control arms..that could've fixed it too.
When going very slowly over a flat road, I can feel the front left tire "hop" very slightly. By hop, I mean that it is not round like (seems like a high spot). I jacked all 4 wheels and checked for any amount of play - none.
Could this be an out of balance (even though I put 4 new tires) or control arm issue? Maybe the control arm bushings are gone and it allows vertical movement during load?
When turning the steering wheel left, it also makes a "pop" sound which is definitely coming from the strut mount area...might be related.
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My 2000 Corolla CE does not have ABS, I've heard the correct way to brake is to pump the brakes. Should I press the brake slowly and then depress fully and then press again OR should I press the brake, depress half way, and press again? How fast should I pulsate it? My commute involves a lot of braking and I don't want the rotors to become warped.
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I have a intermittent problem with the abs. when I go around a right hand curve there is a clicking sound. This happens between 30 and 40 mph. When I go around a left hand curve the brakes will grab, with the skid i-con illuminate , but no fault code. I have had the toyota dealership looked at it. But they couldn't duplicate. I also had a independent mechanic look at it, he put the computer on it.
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I have a 93 Corolla that won't start. Here was the approximate sequence of events:
Car had been sitting for about 1 week. Went to start it and no cranking sound occurred. I tried repeatedly and heard an occasional click and the dash warning lights would vary in brightness from full bright to very dim. Got my friend to give me a jump start and it cranked/started on the first attempt. Drove around for about 20 minutes to recharge the battery.When I got home I turned the car off and made another attempt and ... nothing. No cranking sound, just a click. So I tried again and all of a sudden it started IMMEDIATELY (first crank)!So I turned it off again, and now every subsequent attempt just causes a lot of clicking, and the dash lights come on but vary a great deal in terms of how bright they are.
So... I'm thinking it can't be the battery. If it was the battery that wouldn't explain why it started immediately following not starting. Seems strange that the jump worked, but perhaps that was just a lucky attempt.
What do you think? Bad ignition switch? Anything else I can test?
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I have a 2000 Toyota corolla with about 170,000 miles and it is using about one quart of oil every 500 miles. The last couple places I took it to said the compression was bad in the number 4 cylinder. Another place said it was a leaking head gasket. Which is most likely, and is it worth getting it repaired given its age and mileage?
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I have a 2000 toyota corolla, with 1.8 16 valve. 105,000 miles, manual trans.. Just bought this veh. says misfire cylinder 4. So here is what I have done.
I started trouble shooting. swapping coils from cylinder 4 to other cylinders to see if the code follows after clearing it. No, stayed at 4..
So I moved on to the fuel injector. I did the same thing to see if it followed.. no stayed at cylinder 4. I changed the plugs, stilll misfire..
I did a compression check, I have 170 on 1,2,3, and on cylinder 4 I have 0. Yep, none...
I have some black smoke when the car is under load, as in acceleration, shaking and constant miss. lack of power... Trying to determine whether it is the rings or valves or what.. I took valve cover off and checked for broken spring, and they all seem ok. No oil in my coolant or vise versa.
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Car is a 2000 Corolla with 62k miles. My rear brake light (driver side) went out (pretty sure it is the bulb). 2 months ago the blinker relay went out and I replaced it.
Do most mechanics have the bulb on hand?
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