My 1999 corolla functions great all round, except recently it has started to jerk when I back out from parking. It goes jerk jerk jerk jerk jerk, and by this time I am half way out of the parking spot...
View 2 RepliesWhile driving our 1990 toyota corolla (3-speed automatic transmission) on the freeway recently, the car gave a slight jerk, at which point my husband looked at the gas gauge and noticed it was well below "E".. Oops. fortunately, there was an exit right there with a gas station. Filled up and we were off toward the next on-ramp. Got to about 35-40 mph, and all of a sudden the car literally just stopped moving forward after violently jerking back and forth several times. We then tried to put in neutral and push it to the side, but it wouldn't even do that. Everything was locked up, seized solid. Somehow we managed to get it to the side.
The flatbed tow truck took us home, and all we could do by that point was move a foot or two in reverse after it dropped us off... fast forward... After several days/weeks of it sitting around we can now actually drive it forward! reverse! but we haven't taken it out of the driveway to go more than 5 mph.. We had seen some fluid leaking prior to this incident, but could NOT figure out where it was coming from despite checking obvious fluids meticulously every couple of days. A friend said it might have been the diff fluid? We'd like to fix the car, but to repair a tranny on this old car (although it only has 67K miles!!!) is too expensive. My husband wants to make it a weekend project.
My car has been doing this more. When I turn into a parking spot or my works' parking garage my car front end makes a Metal Grinding noise But it does not make this noise when I am driving - turning corners. Car is a 2007 Toyota Corolla LE (I miss my Beetle). The Toyota service says brakes are fine and they see nothing. I am not the only one that hears it... My son has hard it and I have startled some pedestrians.
View 1 RepliesI have a Toyota Corolla with 78K miles and when braking, a squealing noise came from the back when braking at low speeds. So I figured it was worn brake shoes, I took it to the mechanic but he said both the front and back brakes are good. I had him change both front and back anyway.
Now the squealing noise is gone but there is a still a noise...it sounds like the drum is rusted. It sounds like the noise in this video: [URL] .... (48 sec mark)
Do you think it's the drum or something else? How much would changing the drum (both sides) cost? Do I need to get new brake shoes also?
I purchased a new 2015 Toyota Corolla this last June. While installing car seat covers this weekend, I lifted up the backseat and saw a good deal of rust on the hinges and bar that's bolted to the floor. The bolts are shiny and look new. I'm waiting for a call back from the dealership, but wanted to know if this is normal.
View 19 RepliesI hear a loud Rattling noise from back of 09 Corolla,when I put it in gear- just came out of nowhere...
View 13 RepliesI am a first time Toyota car owner. I bought a 2010 Toyota Corolla LE this past Saturday. It has only 42,000 miles on it, and I got a pretty decent deal on it! I'm still getting used to how the car drives, but it seems to be running great. The only thing I notice sometimes is that I am coasting downhill (not using the brakes) I notice a bit of a vibration sound coming from what sounds like the back windshield. If it keeps occurring, I might take it to the dealer for them to check it out. With my luck, the issue might not even happen though with them there.
View 4 RepliesI just noticed 2 rust spots on the back quarter panel in front of the wheel well on my Corolla. Then I looked on the other side, and found rust in the exact same spot. It looks like the rust is near some bolts that are holding on (what looks like) a small plastic mud flap (I'm not really sure if that is the correct technical name). Anyway, is that normal to have rust in the same spot on both sides, or is it defective? This is the only car I've ever purchased new so I was planning on keeping it, like, FOREVER. I think I've taken pretty good care of it so I plan to have it fixed. Just wondering if I should bring it to Toyota.
View 15 RepliesI have a 99 Buick LeSabre and it died while I was pulling into a parking lot. It wouldn't start back up. I tried listening for the fuel pump and nothing. It's not priming or making any noise. Once I got it home I replaced the fuel pump relay. Still nothing so then I changed the fuel pump. Still nothing. I'm stumped. I'm going to check all the wires tonight to make sure I got them on right. Is there any other relay or fuse on these cars that I can check?
View 3 RepliesSo my 1999 Corolla with 110K miles requires a quart of oil every time I fill the gas tank. It doesn't seem to be leaking; when I went away for two weeks there wasn't a nasty looking spot where it was parked. Yet, it guzzles oil like Bender on Futurama.
My mechanic said that he couldn't do anything to save the car. By the way, I am using 10w-30 in Southern California.
Recently I had a new clutch put in my car (192,000 miles on it) at the toyota dealership. My car has never been the same. It has not pep to it and bucks now. I brought it back when the engine light came on and they said I needed new spark plugs (my husband replaced them with non toyota ones and the car ran fine) so I said fine. The light went off but car still didn't run better. The light has come back on, we found out how it get it to go off and put some cleaner in the gas tank. After 2 days the light came back on again and the car still runs poorly. I don't want to go back to toyota since they messed my car up in the first place.
View 2 RepliesI own a '99 Corolla with app. 121k miles. I brought my car to the dealer for a routine oil change. My "report card" indicated a red flag, i.e. there was oil seeping from the head gasket and from the oil pan gasket. The service advisor said that I should monitor it to see whether or not the seepage gets worse. He said that it didn't necessarily have to be fixed now.
Everything I've researched on head gaskets indicates that if there's a problem, a telltale sign would be leaking radiator fluid. I didn't see anything about leaking oil. As far as the oil pan gasket is concerned, I figure that it's a simple fix, and that I could do it myself, or save the aggravation and let the dealer handle it during my next service appointment.
Still P0303 code after: New spark plugs, new spark plug wiring, new coils, new injectors, full tune up. 99 Corolla 147,000 miles. What else could it be? o2 senor? or maybe intake manifold leak? valve leak? what am I missing?
View 1 RepliesBrake and Revers lights not working on 1999 Toyota Corolla? I have checked fuses and wire connections with no results. My brake and reverse lights just stopped working yesterday and I don't know what else to check.
View 1 RepliesI'm absolutely clueless when it comes to cars. I bought a 99 Carolla with 130k miles from a family friend, Randy, who owns a repair shop. The car was brought in with a blown engine as its previous owner ignored its oil needs. Randy put in an engine with 90k miles and tightened the motor mounts. It made the 14 hour trek from Nashville to my new home in Houston, but now the bottom makes a rattling noise going over any bump. I'm not talking big potholes- even tiny cracks cause it to rattle. Some notes:
The exhaust sounds normal. The sound is coming from in front of me at ground level beneath the hood. Just took it for a test drive and I heard it from both sides as well as the middle. I don't feel it through the steering wheel, pedal, or seat. The only thing indicative of a problem is the noise. If I had the radio on at full blast, I wouldn't know there was an issue.
The check engine light also came on. I took the car to AutoZone and got two errors- the first, P0505, was an air control valve control circuit (probable causes per AutoZone: open or short circuit condition, poor electrical connection, and/or failed IAC motor) and the second, P0420, was catalyst system efficiency below threshold- bank 1 (causes: air leak in exhaust before rear HO2S (heated oxygen sensor), AF sensor error, fuel system fault, and/or faulty catalytic converter).
I have a Toyota Corolla 99 that I have owned for a bit over 2 years; it has 97500 miles. After around 2,000 miles after an oil change it starts burning oil (no smoke or smell). I tried to check it often to make sure I am not running on empty. The last time I had to fill it up once and top off a bit another time before the oil change. I recently also changed the serpentine belt.
I thought the serpentine belt was the noise I was hearing when idling. Now, the noise is still there. Does not get worse when accelerating so hoping it is not a engine knock. Was told by Autozone guy that might be the iddle throttle. Hard to describe noise. No clank, almost like something spinning with a noise every 2 seconds.
1999 Toyota Corolla
Error codes: P0301 ... P0304 ... P0300 ... P0420
Symptoms: Car had short touch of the shakes in the morning, parked it for 8 hrs, drove half a mile, and it got the shakes bad and seems like it wants to stall out and the check engine started flashing. After a minute it went back to normal, and then the whole thing happened off and on the last half mile home.
Background: I was told the catalytic converter was in bad shape last time I took her in so I'm assuming that's it. Friend of mine suggested driving it hard to burn out impurities in the cat, but I'm worried about damaging the engine. Going to replace the sparks and spark wires (they're about due anyways).
I have a problem that has being going on with my 2000 toyota celica gt has been sputtering/jerking when going at a constant speed of about 60 mph. The problem is interment. I have changed everything from cam sensor when it came up on the scanner. Also changed the fuel filter and fuel pump. I changed the spark plugs. No luck the problem went away for about 2 weeks when I changed the fuel pump and filter but it came back. I got it scanned and the only code that comes up is P0420 which is a catalytic converter code. I have no clue where to go from here.
View 9 RepliesI have a 1999 Toyota Corolla. 4 cylinders.
I was on the road about 2 hours from home when my check engine light came on flashing. It stopped flashing so I kept driving. Three more hours of driving at highway speeds and it only came back on once. I then took it into autozone and the code reader told me I had a Cylinder 3 Misfire. The guy told me to change my spark plugs and I would be fine. It was time for a spark plug change anyhow so I drove home and did it. After I changed the spark plugs the car did not start at all. It would cough and sputter and try to start but not actually start. Changed the spark plug wires and then the car stopped even coughing and sputtering. It just didn't start.
I then noticed that my fuel line that feeds directly into the engine was rotten right next to the engine and if I pushed it in I could get the car to try to start. (Try and fail, but at least try.) The fuel line is a molded piece of rubber that flares at each end. It was one of the flares that was rotten and didn't seem to be sealing anymore. The hose is 7 mm inner diameter in the middle and about half an inch on the ends. I took some 3/8 in fuel line and used it to cover over one of the flares. The car tries to start now but wont. 3 of the four cylinders crank. I don't understand how I could break my car on such a simple repair job.
I've been seeking opportunities to try out the parking assist features in our 2016 Prius Four Touring, as it is rather weird to have a car steer itself and it's a little tricky figuring out what to pay attention to. The parallel parking assist works quite well.
To engage the back-in parking assist, you're supposed to line up your car correctly--in a T across the back of the vacant space--and push the parking assist button twice. The first puts it into parallel parking mode, the second into back-in parking mode if available.
I have a 2000 Buick Lesabre with 226k and my parking/E-brake annoys me. The brake isn't stuck or anything, but the pedal doesn't come back all the way, at least not enough to turn off the brake light or accompanying dinging. Most of the time, the cable is disconnected from the pedal to keep the light and dinging off unless I have to use it. Is there any way to adjust the parking brake to get the pedal to fully return or is there something else wrong with the system?
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