So my 1998 Toyota Corrolla jumps and jerks after I switch gears. It only does it sometimes and I have seemed to narrow down that it does it mostly when the air conditioning is on and between 3rd and 4th gear if I don't have the RPMs just right. There is no smell nor any mettalic grinding. I'm thinking it's something to do with the transmission.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2000 Corolla CE 4-spd auto and I've asked this question from several mechanics and they all say they same: leave it in drive.
My issue is that during my rush hour commute, I'm in a lot of bumper to bumper traffic and the maximum speed is 15mph with a lot of stops. During this time, my transmission is literally switching from 1st to 2nd and then downshifting again hundreds of times. Isn't it better to just keep it in 1st gear? The solenoids are constantly firing and gears are switching causing more wear/tear. It's the same as putting the gear in 1st when going down hill so why do mechanics not recommend this?
I got a nice old Toyota. Let's say its a 88 Corolla, with about 215K on it. It was running well until the other day. The car was sitting outside during a rainstorm and when I hopped in, it wouldn't start. Issues are listed in the order they were observed:
1) Key in ignition doesn't create any noise or try to turn over
2) Battery is jumpable
3) Car engine stopped after being jumped. Actually, after I put my foot on the brake pedal.
4) Battery ceases to be jumpable.
5) If I wait a half an hour, battery makes indications that it is operable - ie engine lite works, or buzzing noise is made when door is ajar.
6) There is still no turn over noise.
7) Battery is not jumpable.
8) Maybe some smoke came out of the battery while I was trying to jump it.
In the past few weeks of driving I have rarely parked out doors in rainy conditions, although I drove plenty in the rain. (I am in the Pac NW).
I'd be happy to hear hints on the main source of the problem and what to look into. I am told the battery is new and the alternator was likely replaced recently, but there is no receipts for me to validate that.
I have recently been having a problem with my Toyota Corolla. It starts up fine in the morning, but after a couple of hours of driving with the A/C on and the running lights (which are always on), and the radio, when I shut the car off, it will not start without a jump. With my heavy duty cables it starts instantly with the jump but then I am afraid to turn it off again. It has a genuine Toyota battery that has the dots removed saying it was installed Dec. 2012 although it looks older. After driving for a couple of hours the battery should be fully charged right? Or, does having the A/C and lights on suck up to much juice?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 Corolla CE I bought recently that had 45K miles on it (it has a 4spd auto with O/D).
When accelerating from a stop, I usually take it very slow and I notice that there is a slight jerk most of the time.....it's sort of like I can feel the gears engage. This doesn't happen all the time and it doesn't seem to happen if I accelerate fast.
I did a transmission drain & fill with Royal Purple MaxATF (the drain & fill was only once).
1) Is this normal for this transmission? Also, is there a "pan drop" for this transmission? The mechanic only removed the drain bolt...he did not do the pan drop.
2) During my work commute, I'm in a lot of rush hour traffic where it moves for short distances at 5-10mph. It will shift from 1st to 2nd a lot of times...is better to just put the car in 1st (L) gear? My mechanic said no because it will heat up the transmission faster.
Check engine abs wheel and brake lights have all come on. Speedometer will not function cruise control doesn't work and my car won't switch gears after the 3rd gear. At first I thought it was the speed sensor but I replaced the sensor and nothing.
View 10 RepliesI just recently bought a 2001 Jetta with the 1.8t (AWD) because it had low mileage and a reasonable price. I've never owned a VW before so I know very little about them in general. This is my second vehicle with a turbo, my first was a Saab 93.
When I purchased the car it had the check engine light on and the codes were Vehicle Speed Sensor and Secondary Air Injection Pump. I was able to get it to stop throwing those codes just by cleaning off the components and reconnecting them. The only predominant problem I've been experiencing is that under hard acceleration in 3rd-5th the car will jump and jerk. Its almost like the car isn't getting enough fuel/air but I'm not entirely sure if that's an accurate diagnosis. I've ruled out transmission issues because there are no problems when driving at a slow-normal acceleration. Any insight on where I should begin to fix this issue would be welcomed because I feel as if my motor mounts will break due the force of the jerking.
My last issue has to do with what happened yesterday. My check engine light came back on randomly when I cranked my car. I had no issues the previous day (besides the aforementioned "jerking) so it seemed odd but what really worried me was when I started driving. Whenever I would release the accelerator the car would slow down suddenly as if I applied the brake. The problem continued throughout the day until I got the codes checked and they read Vehicle Speed Sensor (which I've seen has numerous issues from the factory installation) and the Bank 1 O2 sensor. Today I started my car and the check engine light wasn't on.
My car drove like normal (still the hard acceleration jerking but no dramatic deceleration when I release the accelerator). Now to my question, can an O2 sensor cause a problem like this? Maybe the MAF is bad? Not even sure if this vehicle will throw a code for the MAF ...
Every so often, my manual transmission Corolla will "overthrottle" during acceleration, especially shifting into 2nd and 3rd gears (and sometimes even 4th), i.e., the engine will race above the usual RPMs associated with each gear, just for a bit. This however, isn't consistent. I still need to check if the engine air filter is dirty, which I suspect could be a part of the issue.
The vehicle has ca. 124,975mi, and only started exhibiting this problem 2-3 months ago, and only in 2nd gear. Again, this issue is very intermittent, and sometimes I can go a week or two without any incidents at all. The regular maintenance (oil changes, cooling system maintenance, etc.) has been faithfully performed according the manufacturer's specifications.
My 1998 2x4 2.4 cylinder tacoma truck (69k miles) is making a noise when idling or in any of the gears (5 spd) going down the road. The noise goes away when I barely touch/depress the clutch (depress about 1/2 to 1 inch). Any ideas what is making this sound? It's not a growl or rattle, but a very high pitch, whistling sound almost like a cross between a cricket, cicada and grass hopper.
View 2 RepliesI have a 06 f150 king ranch and I have had this issue before and had tran. rebuilt and motor work done for this and other issues. The jerking stopped for a while but now it is back!
The best way I can describe it is when I'm at a certain speed or have set the cruise, it feels as if it the overdrive has been pushed but it only last for a quick moment then it will continue to do this until I accelerate. Its not a steady jerk.
Since they replaced my transmission at 40,000 miles, I've noticed that occasionally, but not always, there is an unusual quick half second jerk or jump feeling when I first crank the car on a cold start. It doesn't happen all the time, just some times, but it has to be a cold start when I do feel it. What this could be? I'm thinking maybe some bolts weren't put tight enough when they installed the new transmission?
View 1 RepliesSo I recently leased a 2015 GS 350 AWD. The car is great. Love all the features. However, for some reason I feel that the transmission is a bit I rough when it switches gears. I feel the kick. I also noticed a hang up or delay when slowing down. I am coming off a infiniti q50 and the transmission on that car was nice and smooth. Maybe I'm just too sensitive.
View 14 Replies1995 Nissan Altima with 230,000 miles stalls while driving within the first 5 minutes and could immediately restart and was fine for the next 20+ miles. Well now she stalls when I try to gas her or when she switches gears (when going from 40 mph to 45 mph) and she needs a little time to rest before she will start up again. My dad seems to think she got a little low on oil at some point and the computer is freaking out. He has already tried replacing the fuel filter. This was my first car.
View 8 RepliesI have a Sonata 08. I have recently installed a 740W amp and HID lights. During the Winter everything worked fine with just the amp. I then decided to install HIDs. I have a relay and a capacitor on them. but I have a weird power problem. Sometimes when I have my AC running the engine shuts off when I turn on my lights. It feels like a surge. I have to restart the car. Also while the AC runs the car feels a little shaky like it is switching gears while parked. What's going on?
View 25 RepliesI haven't come on this site since I sold my Corrado a while back, but I am having issues with the wife's City Golf. It is a manual transmission and when switching gears and accelerating, the engine revs all over the map on the tach and is only partially engaged in gear, and then after bouncing around it settles down drives normal. But if you stomp on the gas again, the engine accelerates all over place again and it doesn't translate to power on the road. Is this a transmission problem or a fuel problem?
View 6 RepliesThis is the second time I notice a problem with my 2014 elantra base model. The car only has 13000kms and today the car acted with a weird behaviour. This car has a manual 6 speed transmission.
Out of the blue the car jerked like it had a problem with the transmission switching gears which is weird as this is a manual.
The second time this happened the wife was driving and she said that she was in is third gear and she pressed the clutch and the brake at the same time and she felt a small jerking feel in the clutch like it didn't engage.
The problem is that I cant reproduce the problem. The car is still under warranty and I don't want to go to the dealer with a problem that I cant exhibit.
I have a 1996 bmw z3 and theres bunch of problems with itone the transmission makes makes a loud noise when switching gears usually first, also you press the gas and it takes couple seconds for the car to accelerate.also when foot is on the brake the car will surge forward or accelerate i was told by bmw that the value cover gasket needs to be replaced cause its leaking oil the air mass meter needs to be replaced i was told by one mechanic this could be why the transmission is having problems or it could be the transmission needs to be replaced ~ any truth to this that the air mass meter could be causing problems with the tranny?? also the os sensor needs to be replaced the check engine light is on....so my question is that could all of these problems be causing transmission issues. There are other problems as well including power issues with the battery, stalling mostly because i havent been driving it also the ac doesnt work but heat does.
View 7 RepliesOur 98 Corolla has recently become hard to start. Usually two or three starting attempts for a few seconds before starts and then idles roughly for a few seconds, then drives fine like it always has. Has 51k miles, oil changed regularly, 100k-mile tuneup/spark plug replacement not yet reached (maybe another 18 years, in 2034? Anyway, has performed great always until recently no longer starts immediately. Replaced battery, no change. Have BlueTooth OBD scan tool connects to Android phone - cool display, no codes, what to check, do next?
View 18 RepliesMy 98 corolla has set for a year plus and the serpentine belt is stuck and will not let the motor turn over fast enough to start. The battery is fully charged, the gas tank is full, the belt is in good shape. The car ran just fine the one year I owned it before sitting so long. I sprayed the belt with belt dressing. Could the alternator or something else be stuck? Should I remove the belt and then reinstall it?
View 8 RepliesI had my clutch replaced about a year ago in my 2003 mazda b2300 truck. Recently, it's been showing some of the same symptoms that popped up about a year ago. Such as, it's having a hard time going into first gear, and it seems to be generally clunky while switching the lower gears. The first clutch was replaced at 130k so I was alright with that. However, I find it hard to believe that I burned out this new one in a year. I do live in Boston, so traffic is pretty bad, but I try to not ride the clutch in traffic.
View 12 RepliesI started to drive with my windows open and just noticed a noise every time I switch gears, and specially when I'm going up on hills or streets, the noise is just for 1 second maybe 1.5 and when I'm going up on long and elevated streets is longer specially on 3rd gear, I just did the oil change on my car a couple weeks a go (quacker state 5W20 , 3 1/2 quarts) and I was hoping to fix the "noise" with that, but is not......the "noise" is like a "click click click click" like valves hitting .......I can't say for how long the engine was doing that "noise", cause I just noticed after driving with my windows open
My car have 125,000 kilometers and the timing belt was change at 108,000 kilos, no A/C on the car
Take a look on 2:00 minutes, right after the guy release the pedal, the "click click click" noise : Sunet ciudat motor Hyundai Accent 1,4 DOHC - YouTube