Toyota - Corolla :: 1997 Refused To Start
Sep 11, 2013
Friday of last week my wife's Corolla refused to start. It cranked strongly but refused to catch. Fearing the worst my mechanic father-in-law assumed the timing belt had gone and we spent the weekend replacing that. The tensioner bearing had seized leaving the timing belt glazed but intact and, as far as we could tell, the timing was still correct. We replaced the belt and closed her back. Tired turning it over, nothing. Father-in-law noticed he didn't hear the fuel pump turn on when the key was placed in the ON position so he replaced that and the fuel filter. Turns out that the fuel pump only comes on when it's cranking? Who knew? We didn't. So that's been replaced.
At this point we have it towed to the shop where my father-in-law works(After this point all my information is second hand). We were going to let Big Al, their resident diagnostician, hook up his magic boxes and tell us what's wrong. Big Al suggests it's the distributor so that's changed but it still doesn't run. Big Al suggests that we set the timing incorrectly. That is torn apart again and, remember this is second hand information, "it was right but it was wrong". Whatever, they get it back together and it cranks and runs! Hooray!...but not so fast.
Next morning father-in-law arrives at work and gets bubkis. Cranks, sounds like it wants to start but won't. Somehow Big Al determines it's the PCM and that the car is getting "too much of a fuel pulse from the injectors" I ask if they are able to pull any codes from the computer and I'm told that they can't get any codes from ODBII scanner because it can't communicate with the car's computer. Also it's found that the catalytic converter is completely shot.
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I have a 1997 Toyota Corolla that will not start unless it is jumped, but it's not as simple as that.
Once it's jumped it runs well after a few minutes to warm up. The gentleman from AAA informed me that the battery is bad and needs replacement, but when I took it to the store where I purchased it (and it is still under warranty) they informed me that they would charge it first to verify it was still working before offering a replacement. Forty-five minutes later they assured me that battery was fully charged and would hold a charge. I took it home and put it into the car and it still will not start.
But it's not as simple as that... Here's the odd thing thing. When I put the battery in, and place key in the ignition the usual check engine light, door ajar light, dome light (etc.) work. When I turn the key to start the car I hear a single click then... nothing. If I take the key out and reinsert it, the usual check engine light, door ajar light, etc do NOT work.
Stranger still. If I disconnect the battery and then reconnect it (or just wait 20 minutes) the check engine light, door ajar light, etc do work, until I try to star the car and then the single click returns and the process repeats. To add there is moderate corrosion on the battery terminals.
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We have a 2007 Prius with 70,000 miles on it. Twice now, the car has refused to start. Yesterday we tried to jump start it, got nothing. We went shopping with the other vehicle, came home, and then it started when my husband unlocked the car with the remote. It happened again today. I always use the smart key, it wouldn't start. Dead! My husband took me to work, then came home, unlocked it with the remote and it started again. What's up with that??? We just had it serviced a few weeks ago.
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The fuel filler vent line rotted off so I had the gas tank and fuel pump replaced in September. Drove the car for 2 months without a problem until last week.The car lost power then stalled. I smelled gas and found that there was a large amount of gas pouring out of the bottom of the vapor canister.I bought a new one (very expensive for a plastic can) and put it on. Drove the car a couple days and then it happened again. Someone told me not to over fill the tank but I never did. In fact, this doesn't happen right after I get gas. Its a couple days after I get gas that it happens. I had two different auto mechanics look at it and neither one of them could figure it out.
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My husband drives a 97 Toyota Corolla. Great little car with one problem, it stinks. It smells like gasoline after its started. I never smell it from inside the car, just after its run when I exit the car. Took to a mechanic.... they couldn't find a leak and of course they didn't smell anything. He told me the LEFT OUTPUT SHAFT SEAL needs to be replaced but wasn't very positive that had anything to do with the gasoline smell. He only suggested replacing the gas cap, again, not with much confidence. Should I take it back, take somewhere else, anyway of narrowing down the possible leak areas myself or other suggested areas for them to look for the leak???
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I have an LS600hl (2008) that has behaved spectacularly well, except until recently when it started to deplete the key fob battery fast! I resorted to replacing the batteries once a week (yes it was that bad). that was up until today when the car refused to start completely. Everything in it is dead, including the horns.
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I have a 96 Buick regal v6 3.8L. It ran good. Started from last winter, it started to act up. In the morning, 98% OF the first attempt to start the car failed: it started but died in a few seconds, but the 2nd attempt always got it start. One month ago, I drove it for 1.5 hours, and parked there for 15 minutes, could not get it started, opened up the hood, waited for 15 minutes, it started. Then I drove it to a auto shop, they replaced the starter. One five days later, I could not started it again after 1.3 hour driving and parked for 20 minutes. Wait for 15 minutes, it started again. The odd is that when it refused to start, the radiator gap is very hard (but not over heated yet), after started it and drove for 30 minutes or so, I feel the gap is cooler than when it would not start.
I drove it back to the shop, they could not any problem. Drove it back. three day later, it stalled when driving. I didn't realize the stall until I need to turn: lost steering and brake power, then notice that the whole dash board doesn't have any light on. Since the car shut it off only after half mile driving, it doesn't looks like heat related (It was on the mountain, it was about 70 F). Then I sent the car to a different shop.
At the shop, they took off the ignition model and tested it good, and put it back. Since then, they started the car several times per day. Finally, on one day, the car shut itself off after running for 2 hours, and they could not start it. However, they checked and didn't find any code was set (they said because service engine light was not on). The shop have been trying to start the car several times per day for 10 days they didn't have another failure. I am not sure what to do with the car. I read posts here, and have the shop checked short circuit, ground fault, fuel wiring harness, catalytic converter, they didn't find anything, and they said that fuel pump seems ok.
I plan to replace crank sensor, fuel filter, and fuel regulator sensor and use the car for work commute (2 miles). what should be done on the car (since it is old car with 120K on it, I don't want to spend more than $500 dollar on it unless I am sure the problem can be fixed).
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My 2003 Taurus sometimes refuses to start. There's no real pattern: sometimes it's after the car has run for a while and other times not. Sometimes the starter clicks, other times the engine lights come on with no sound at all from starter/engine. Thing is, the car always ends up starting if I let it sit long enough (15 minutes--several hours). I've read around on the internet and realize this seems to be a problem experienced by many owners. I've changed the battery, checked all the connections, cleaned the starter connections and the Mass Air Flow Sensor. If the starter was bad, it seems like it wouldn't start at all, right?
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I have a 2005 Hyndai Accent. When it started getting really cold the car began to have issues starting. I turn the key and it tries to start. The battery is fine. I thought it might be something in the fuel line so I had the car towed to the local garage and they said they put the car in the garage and it fired right up. After that the car was fine for a couple weeks. Superbown Sunday after the game I went to get it in and it would not start. On a hunch I went got a bottle of heat put it in and it started right up. It was fine until I refilled the tank then it refused to start so I put more heat in it and it started. I did this once more and it worked. One night after work it wouldn't start so I put heat in it and it would not start. I messed with it for about 2 hours finally I was able to push it down a hill pop the clutch and it started. I took it back to the shop it was in there for 3 days and they were unable to reproduce the problem. Since then every time it is cold it refuses to start I have to push start it every time. Luckily this is still working. I am fed up I dont know what to do with it. Every time I take it to the shop and they cant reproduce the problem it costs me money and I am sick of it.
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My fiance has a 97 Corolla had belt that was located near the engine block on the passenger side going long ways. This belt had a frayed edge since she and I started dating(over 2 years). Whenever asked about it, she said that any dealership or shop she took it to for something else said that it was fine or they didn't think it needed to be worked on/fixed. Alarms for me? Yes, but it's her car. For whatever reason, it hasn't been fixed.
Yesterday, the battery light kept flashing on and off and the steering became hard and sluggish, as if the power steering wasn't working. We got home and I opened it up and the belt was gone except for a few solid strands left.
So, is this the timing belt, or something else? And what is required to fix it?I'm also in the process of hunting down my Haynes book for this car still but wanted to ask the masses that exist here.After finding the book, it looks to be called the serpentine drive belt.
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My 1997 Toyota Corolla has recently began hesitating when starting. When I turn the ignition, her idle seems normal, but then goes 'down' and it feels like she's going to die. But then the idle/revs go back up and she's fine. However within the past week, she dies when starting (usually the first start or two of the day). She turns over, but then 'fizzles out' and dies. However when she does this, a small tap on the gas pedal revs her up.
This does not occur every time I start her. In fact the more I use her throughout the day, it seems she starts normal. There are no issues with RPMs/Idling when driving.
I've taken her to two mechanics and they could find nothing. Fuel pump, fuel line, throttle body, etc. All fine. When hooked up on the computer the only thing that showed a slight reading is the idle air control valve. But they can't be sure that's the problem.
Of course she hasn't died for the mechanics, just me as it's sporadic.
When I turned her on today she didn't die in the morning like she has all week, however the idle was so low that we were waiting for her to die. Slowly the revs picked up and she was fine!
I put fuel injector cleaner in a few days ago and got an oil change yesterday. That's it.
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All of a sudden my radio and clock stopped working, k-checked fuses 20A, seem fine- two days later, the door chimes stopped working, and then the lights are one-chimes stopped, then the key in the ignition, and when the door is ajar, stopped dinging---is this a computer malfunction or sensor-WHICH ONE? 1997 toyota corolla........
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I drove home to get something and when I come back out my car won't start, my power windows are down and will not function, no dash lights when key is turned to on position and it will not turn over, no radio, nothing seems to be working, only light I see is the door open indicator light and the security light is blinking but go's out when I insert my key into the ignition
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Several tries at power button failed. Icon on dashboard (small car image) flashing whether nor not I was in the car. Lights worked and emergency flashers worked. After many tries, called AAA. The AAA driver got in the car and it started right up and has worked ever since. Called dealer. Never heard of such a thing. What happened.
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I drove my 1998 VW passat to work last week, a day after changing spark plugs, fuel and oil filter, and engine oil. After work, the car refused to spark. Had to leave it overnight. Till today, the vehicle has refused to spark even though my electricians keep telling everything seems to be ok. The latest I was told was that the engine has lost pressure. What does that mean and what is the possible remedy?
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My uncle has a 1997 Corolla that has been sitting on his garage for about 2 years. We jump started the car and after a while recharging the battery, we saw fumes coming out from the engine. I then noticed that there was oil all over the front of the engine.. From what I have found in google it seems that this is a valve cover leak. How serious can these be? Are they easy to fix? because my uncle is thinking on calling the junkyard.
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I have a '97 Corolla with 198K miles... this week all of a sudden, it has a strange moisture issue. It rained some on Sunday and a little Monday morning. I got in the car to go to work, and there was fog on the inside of the instrument panel window--turning on the defroster fixed it, but that's the first time I've ever had to defrost my speedometer!Monday while I was at work, it rained a lot more.
I got in the car to go home, and it was very humid inside! I turned on the air and opened the windows for a minute, and all was fine. It hasn't rained since, but due to the moisture now the car smells pretty bad at first in the morning...I have to turn air on/open windows for a minute when I get in. What would allow moisture to get inside the instrument panel??
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I have 2006 Toyota Corolla XRS, and I can't get it to start. Last week I tried to start my car, it just turned over and wouldn't fire. I left it for a couple days, and didn't try anything. I thought the fuel line might of been frozen, because I do live in Canada. This afternoon it warmed up, so I decided to try it out. It started the first try, no problem. I drove straight to the gas station, and bought some methyl hydrate to put in the tank. I drove around a bunch that day to mix it in. After leaving it for a few hours I went and tried to start my car, and it's doing the exact same thing again. Not sure what to do here.
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I have a 1994 Toyota Corolla, automatic transmission. I went to start it this afternoon and it made a clicking sound a few times then went completely dead. When I jumped it, the dashboard panels, radio, lights, doors, etc. began to work, but it still would not start. I have replaced the alternator about 1.5 yrs ago and had the battery checked then too (it was fine then). I have had this problem before about a year ago, but it did start when jumped. I didn't leave my lights on or any doors open, so I don't think I drained the battery.
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I own a 2005 corolla. Has 112k on it. Having issue with car not starting after driven to store and parked. Happened 4 times. Let car sit and it starts. Puzzled to what issue can be.
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My 1981 Toyota Corolla wagon began to intermittently fail to start when warmed up about five years ago, and by fail to start I mean all lights come on but zero crank and no clicking sounds either. The amount of time I must wait for it to cool down and start again has varied between 20 minutes and today's record, 3 hours. This problem is common with older Toyotas and usually means the starter motor needs to be replaced, believe me I've looked into it, but here's the puzzler. I've replaced the starter motor two times and it has failed to solve the problem. I've replaced the ignition switch four times, same thing. I replaced the battery thinking maybe my old battery was losing mojo, but tears came to my eyes when it happened again.
I've studied how a hot starter head close to the exhaust manifold sees it's resistance go up, that the initial crank requires big voltage throughput. But an aluminum heat shield is built in and wrapping the starter in a heat blocking blanket is not physically possible with my configuration. What I haven't looked into yet is the clutch safety switch. I did receive the following bullet from a previous CarTalk query which read: "If a manual transmission, the clutch safety switch must be working and have low enough "on" resistance. Likewise with an automatic transmission, the neutral safety switch." I would love more detail about the clutch safety switch. I can add this interesting caveat to today's 3 hour record wait. I've gotten good a bump starting the car by myself. Today I bump started it in rolling reverse, re-parked it, and tried restarting again. Started right up when it wouldn't start moments before.
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