Toyota - Corolla :: 1997 - Gas Leaking Out Of Vapor Canister
Nov 19, 2013
The fuel filler vent line rotted off so I had the gas tank and fuel pump replaced in September. Drove the car for 2 months without a problem until last week.The car lost power then stalled. I smelled gas and found that there was a large amount of gas pouring out of the bottom of the vapor canister.I bought a new one (very expensive for a plastic can) and put it on. Drove the car a couple days and then it happened again. Someone told me not to over fill the tank but I never did. In fact, this doesn't happen right after I get gas. Its a couple days after I get gas that it happens. I had two different auto mechanics look at it and neither one of them could figure it out.
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My Suburu Forester(2002) needs registering in DE and all lights must be off. I gave up trying to get the ignition light off 2 years ago, when it went off in time for registration and came back on as I drove home.
The AutoZone gave me a diagnosis of P1443, P0442, P0139, and P0483.
Suggested parts says : Vapor Canister.
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I have a 2001 Ford Excursion 6.8L V10. It runs like a champ, gets really good mileage for what it is, but there a strong fuel vapor smell coming from the charcoal vapor canister under the hood. You can smell it outside the truck and the smell gets pulled in through the vents - have to use Max AC recirc.
After checking and testing, I can confirm that the fuel vapor smell is coming from the charcoal canister and not anywhere else on the engine. The smell gets worse as the tank drains: Full Tank - Almost No Smell; Half Tank - Strong Smell; 1/4 Tank - Very Strong Smell.
Here is all that we have tried.-Replaced Fuel Cap (Genuine Ford)-Visually inspected the Evap Lines - Look Good-Visually inspected Fuel Line and Fuel Filter - Look Good-Checked the Fuel System for Leaks - None-Pressure Tested the Fuel System - No Leaks-Ran Multiple Smoke Tests on Evap System - No Leaks-Checked the Computer for Codes - No Codes-Replaced the Charcoal Vapor Canister (Genuine Ford)
We are totally stumped. I searched all the forums and can find issues with plugs, fuel injector o-rings, and leaks, but this has all be checked.
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My 2001 6cyl 4x4 Xterra is a clogged gas tank vent solenoid, or as it is called now a "Vapor Canister Vent Valve". For the last 2 or 3 years, very infrequently, the vehicle turns completely off while decelerating (sometimes at very fast speeds so I have learned to be calm and put the car in N and turn the key and keep going with the flow so to speak). It also, either during a stop in idle or accelerating very slowly and steadily, makes popping sounds directly under the left back seat--which is where the gas tank is located. It sounds like the tank (or a metal can if you will) is being sucked in until it gives making the popping/banging sound against the car (underneath).
The other issue this problem seems to be linked to is the engine light coming on when the tank pops. I have had that diagnosed too, and it just reads "engine knock sensor". My previous wonderful mechanic, who moved about 30 states away, is no longer available but he did tell me it sounds like a blocked or clogged gas tank vent solenoid. He also said it's not a big problem per se, but at some point I should probably replace it. Sometimes there are 6 months that go by with no popping, stalling, or engine light coming on. So maybe 'bad gasoline' also plays into this issue?? I did an internet search recently and found a replacement part called a vapor canister vent valve. My question is how easy or hard is this thing to replace? Can it simply be 'blown out' with an air hose, or otherwise 'cleaned' instead of replacing it. The only thing scarier for me to fix than home electrical wires would be anything dealing with GAS.
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I keep getting this code even after fixing hoses with leaks. I am guilty of over filling my gas tank all the time can this have damaged the vapor canister on my 2001 dodge caravan....
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1998 Corolla LD ... Diagnostic tests show that my check engine light stays on due to a charcoal canister. Is this an expensive repair?
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I am done with this swap (I hope) changed out the 302 in my 81 van for a 351. The only smog spaghetti I am keeping is the fuel vapor canister but I am unsure what the #1 line in the photo is for I have the manual but doesn't state what it does my research suggests its a fuel vapor return line from the carb bowl back to the canister ...... I now have an edlebrock carb obviously w/o this port so my question is
#1 where would you reconnect this "whatever it is" line on carb or manifold
#2 I am going to install that #3 fitting in photo on the edlebrock manifold at the same location & extend #2 hose to it. I am thinking that's ok...
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I have a 2000 Toyota corolla with about 170,000 miles and it is using about one quart of oil every 500 miles. The last couple places I took it to said the compression was bad in the number 4 cylinder. Another place said it was a leaking head gasket. Which is most likely, and is it worth getting it repaired given its age and mileage?
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I've got to replace a leaking front crankshaft oil seal. Haynes shows using a steering wheel puller with the two bolts installed, but without the center screw. Insert a socket and extension through the center screw hole. Hold the body of the puller with an adjustable to keep the crank pulley from turning while you loosen the pulley bolt. I've got an air impact. Would that hammer the pulley bolt loose without having to hold the pulley? I've also got a chain vise-grip, but I'm not sure yet if it would clear the other pulleys. Assuming I get this far, should I pry out the seal with a flat screwdriver wrapped in tape? Would it work to cut the rubber out of the seal first?
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I have a 2006 Toyota Corolla with 183,000 miles on it. My mechanic noticed that the right front strut was leaking oil. In addition to replacing it recommended getting a strut mount installed as well. Is this an necessary component at the age of my car or can just replacing the strut do the trick?
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1997 Grand Prix GT N/A. 175,000. I keep getting this code about once every two weeks. I'll clear it and doesn't come back until then. I've had passengers in the back seat smell gas so I'm suspecting the vapor canister. Would a leaking canister set this code off? I checked all the vacuum lines to the purge solenoid and seem fine. Is the canister in the drivers side rear wheel well? I need to get in there and check if it's leaking. I'm having no driving issues however my gas consumption seems to be a bit more than usual. I checked the FPR and no fuel contamination.
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I have an '89 Corolla with a very odd leak. There is what seems to be engine fluid dripping on to the brake pedal. My oil level is good- no apparent drop in levels and it's clean- coolant is good, brake fluid is good. The leak smells a bit like engine oil, is dark gray/ black and slippery.
Local mechanic says it sounds like a bad heater core. (The heat is working great however.) I recently replaced the distributor cap and wires/ air filter as it was misfiring like nobody's business. Running fine now
This is a second car I bought a year ago to leave on the east coast for summers. it's been really reliable- ice cold AC, great heat, great gas mileage/. Did start to over heat once this summer, but not bad.
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I just had my oil changed and was told that my rack and pinion was leaking also my valve cover leaked I had the gasket change about a year ago an the leak is so slight it wont even show up in my dip stick, is it possible the valve cover leak is getting on the rack boot. Also can I change just the boot car has 15000mi in great shape an well maintained.....
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I have a 2003 Toyota Corolla with a leaking timing chain tensioner. I was able to locate a procedure for replacing the tensioner but it didn't say whether the no. 1 cylinder had to be @ TDC or not. What is the proper procedure for this repair?
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Friday of last week my wife's Corolla refused to start. It cranked strongly but refused to catch. Fearing the worst my mechanic father-in-law assumed the timing belt had gone and we spent the weekend replacing that. The tensioner bearing had seized leaving the timing belt glazed but intact and, as far as we could tell, the timing was still correct. We replaced the belt and closed her back. Tired turning it over, nothing. Father-in-law noticed he didn't hear the fuel pump turn on when the key was placed in the ON position so he replaced that and the fuel filter. Turns out that the fuel pump only comes on when it's cranking? Who knew? We didn't. So that's been replaced.
At this point we have it towed to the shop where my father-in-law works(After this point all my information is second hand). We were going to let Big Al, their resident diagnostician, hook up his magic boxes and tell us what's wrong. Big Al suggests it's the distributor so that's changed but it still doesn't run. Big Al suggests that we set the timing incorrectly. That is torn apart again and, remember this is second hand information, "it was right but it was wrong". Whatever, they get it back together and it cranks and runs! Hooray!...but not so fast.
Next morning father-in-law arrives at work and gets bubkis. Cranks, sounds like it wants to start but won't. Somehow Big Al determines it's the PCM and that the car is getting "too much of a fuel pulse from the injectors" I ask if they are able to pull any codes from the computer and I'm told that they can't get any codes from ODBII scanner because it can't communicate with the car's computer. Also it's found that the catalytic converter is completely shot.
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I have a 1997 Toyota Corolla that will not start unless it is jumped, but it's not as simple as that.
Once it's jumped it runs well after a few minutes to warm up. The gentleman from AAA informed me that the battery is bad and needs replacement, but when I took it to the store where I purchased it (and it is still under warranty) they informed me that they would charge it first to verify it was still working before offering a replacement. Forty-five minutes later they assured me that battery was fully charged and would hold a charge. I took it home and put it into the car and it still will not start.
But it's not as simple as that... Here's the odd thing thing. When I put the battery in, and place key in the ignition the usual check engine light, door ajar light, dome light (etc.) work. When I turn the key to start the car I hear a single click then... nothing. If I take the key out and reinsert it, the usual check engine light, door ajar light, etc do NOT work.
Stranger still. If I disconnect the battery and then reconnect it (or just wait 20 minutes) the check engine light, door ajar light, etc do work, until I try to star the car and then the single click returns and the process repeats. To add there is moderate corrosion on the battery terminals.
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My husband drives a 97 Toyota Corolla. Great little car with one problem, it stinks. It smells like gasoline after its started. I never smell it from inside the car, just after its run when I exit the car. Took to a mechanic.... they couldn't find a leak and of course they didn't smell anything. He told me the LEFT OUTPUT SHAFT SEAL needs to be replaced but wasn't very positive that had anything to do with the gasoline smell. He only suggested replacing the gas cap, again, not with much confidence. Should I take it back, take somewhere else, anyway of narrowing down the possible leak areas myself or other suggested areas for them to look for the leak???
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My fiance has a 97 Corolla had belt that was located near the engine block on the passenger side going long ways. This belt had a frayed edge since she and I started dating(over 2 years). Whenever asked about it, she said that any dealership or shop she took it to for something else said that it was fine or they didn't think it needed to be worked on/fixed. Alarms for me? Yes, but it's her car. For whatever reason, it hasn't been fixed.
Yesterday, the battery light kept flashing on and off and the steering became hard and sluggish, as if the power steering wasn't working. We got home and I opened it up and the belt was gone except for a few solid strands left.
So, is this the timing belt, or something else? And what is required to fix it?I'm also in the process of hunting down my Haynes book for this car still but wanted to ask the masses that exist here.After finding the book, it looks to be called the serpentine drive belt.
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My 1997 Toyota Corolla has recently began hesitating when starting. When I turn the ignition, her idle seems normal, but then goes 'down' and it feels like she's going to die. But then the idle/revs go back up and she's fine. However within the past week, she dies when starting (usually the first start or two of the day). She turns over, but then 'fizzles out' and dies. However when she does this, a small tap on the gas pedal revs her up.
This does not occur every time I start her. In fact the more I use her throughout the day, it seems she starts normal. There are no issues with RPMs/Idling when driving.
I've taken her to two mechanics and they could find nothing. Fuel pump, fuel line, throttle body, etc. All fine. When hooked up on the computer the only thing that showed a slight reading is the idle air control valve. But they can't be sure that's the problem.
Of course she hasn't died for the mechanics, just me as it's sporadic.
When I turned her on today she didn't die in the morning like she has all week, however the idle was so low that we were waiting for her to die. Slowly the revs picked up and she was fine!
I put fuel injector cleaner in a few days ago and got an oil change yesterday. That's it.
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All of a sudden my radio and clock stopped working, k-checked fuses 20A, seem fine- two days later, the door chimes stopped working, and then the lights are one-chimes stopped, then the key in the ignition, and when the door is ajar, stopped dinging---is this a computer malfunction or sensor-WHICH ONE? 1997 toyota corolla........
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My uncle has a 1997 Corolla that has been sitting on his garage for about 2 years. We jump started the car and after a while recharging the battery, we saw fumes coming out from the engine. I then noticed that there was oil all over the front of the engine.. From what I have found in google it seems that this is a valve cover leak. How serious can these be? Are they easy to fix? because my uncle is thinking on calling the junkyard.
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