Toyota - Corolla :: 1997 - Fixing Broken Serpentine Belt?
Dec 24, 2011
My fiance has a 97 Corolla had belt that was located near the engine block on the passenger side going long ways. This belt had a frayed edge since she and I started dating(over 2 years). Whenever asked about it, she said that any dealership or shop she took it to for something else said that it was fine or they didn't think it needed to be worked on/fixed. Alarms for me? Yes, but it's her car. For whatever reason, it hasn't been fixed.
Yesterday, the battery light kept flashing on and off and the steering became hard and sluggish, as if the power steering wasn't working. We got home and I opened it up and the belt was gone except for a few solid strands left.
So, is this the timing belt, or something else? And what is required to fix it?I'm also in the process of hunting down my Haynes book for this car still but wanted to ask the masses that exist here.After finding the book, it looks to be called the serpentine drive belt.
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Serpentine belt break? My 2005 Prius has 132,000 miles on the original belt, so I thought it's probably due for replacement. I went to an independent garage to get an estimate ($80). But the owner said that he has never heard of one actually breaking. He said that they are reinforced with fiberglass, so they just don't break. He recommended that I look for missing chunks and listen for squealing.
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I am driving a 2015 Sonata with 20,000km (13,000 miles) and the temperature light suddenly came on. I stopped and checked things and could find nothing wrong (oil and coolant OK). I was close to home (less than 1 mile) so drove until light came on again then stopped until it cooled a bit and then home. I thought it must have been the sensor because engine definitely did not appear to be hot.
Once in the garage, I inspected things a little closer and noticed a destroyed serpentine belt--ripped to shreds. Not sure what caused it, but that was the problem. I was afraid of a coolant leak which would have been more serious.
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I was wondering because serpentine belt is a big thing for 05 corolla since everything runs on it. I also had a 94 camry which had a alternator connected to a belt. and if i wanted to tighten up that belt i would just loosen the alternator and pull it. Is there a way to tighten up serpentine belt in my 05 corolla in the same way?.
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When it is cold out or wet my serpentine belt squeals a lot or a couple of minutes. It had progressively gotten worse this past winter. The shop said the belt looks fine and Toyota wants me to pay for them to look at it...
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I had put on about 300 miles on the car in my sig before this started happening. Every once in a while as the car goes to upshift it will free rev a couple hundred rpm before falling into the next gear. I have not been driving it hard at all and have been driving easy when this happens.
Could be something as simple as needing a fluid change but the thing only has 34,000 miles on it, I hope it's not serious.
Upon a cold start up it sounds like the serp belt squeaks for about half a second on a pulley that isn't spinning freely. That's what it sounds like. I am just wondering, are these "known issues" with these cars?
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Just replaced the drive belt on my 2001 Toyota Echo, 100k, AC. First replacement as far as I can remember - don't know if a shop ever did it in the past, but doubt it, and did this change myself. I opted to replace because,
1) it seemed about time, and
2) I was getting some belt screech before the engine warmed when it was cold and damp out.
But, now I have an even worse screech. I've only noticed it happening at night (alternator resistance from the headlamps?), when it's cold and there's dew on the windows. It's intermittent, but increases in volume under load (initial acceleration from stop, or downshift to engine brake). I thought it was connected to the dash fan being on, but apparently not, as the sound is present (again, only on cool, damp, nights) when the fan is off, both AC on and off.
One last detail - I may have a bit too much tension on the belt. In this car the tension comes from pulling the alternator away from the engine, and I had a hard time getting a good reading on my tension indicator. I'm likely at the high end of the recommended tension but may be exceeding that to some extent.
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Is it possible to change the water pump and serpentine belt in a 2006 Toyota Camry with 4 cyl. engine in less than an hour?
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I have a 2003 f150 4.2 v8. and i have a squeaky belt I am almost positive its the belt i went to change it today but being sick,cold (NY), getting dark having just worked 10 hrs and changing oil it was not going well.
The reason I think its the belt it does not squeak when its really cold out but once it warms up a little its back so I am thinking when it gets warm it stretches out a little and when its cold it shrinks up or am I just crazy..
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I have a problem with my 1997 aerostar. There is a squeaking noise that gets more significant when I turn. I am pretty sure this is the drive belt as the power steering fluid is fine. Should I attempt to replace the belt tensioner and if so is it just the pulley that needs replacing or the whole tensioner. I am by no means a mechanic but can figure most things out.
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Been trying to isolate my noisy serpentine belt. Had the belt off and spun everything, only thing I found that made any noise was the alternator. It had a nice churp like a bearing was on its way out in it. So I replaced that figuring my squeak was going to go away. No such luck. Listening to it again while it was idling, I crawled underneath. Almost seems like the churping noise is coming from the Crank Pulley. Is there a bearing on this pulley that goes bad?
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Ok, I have 1997 Ford Ranger, 4cyl, manual transmission, and more miles than I'd like to admit to.
Yesterday, I noticed that one of the vacuum lines was coming dangerously close to hitting the serpentine belt on the front of the engine. The clamp that normally holds the vacuum line in place rusted away a decade ago, so I decided to use some velcro ties to attach the line to the positive battery cable. I didn't twist or pull on the cable in any way and the vacuum line isn't applying any force to the cable.
I get in the truck a few hours later, hit the key and I get >click<, but nothing out of the starter. One click when the key is in the start position, nothing more (as opposed to click-click-click).
Not thinking about my repair earlier, I went down to Autozone and had them test the battery - 12.8V and 550CCA, no problem there.
So then, I thought well since the click is coming from the starter relay, maybe that's where the problem is. I read on another forum that sometimes the starter relay can be resurrected temporarily by hitting it with a hammer. Which I did. And it did work! Now the truck is starting up normally every time, but I'd like to replace whatever was bad.
My questions :
1. Did I prove anything by hitting the starter relay with a hammer and then starting the truck?
2. Should I still be looking at the battery cables?
3. Should I stop hitting random parts with a hammer and take this truck down to a real mechanic before I do serious damage?
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Serpentine belt on a 2006 Honda Odyssey fraying and then ripping into the timing belt causing that belt to break? I recently had this scenario given to me as the cause of my recently replaced timing belt breaking.
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2006 6.0l ... I've read all over for tips on routing this belt and everyone plays it off as being some simple '20-minute' task. I'm on my 4th hour on this now.
I can't figure out how to route the belt around the tensioner pulley, circled in the picture (from another thread). Everyone glosses over how to do this and I can't figure it out.
It seems like the only way to get it on is to bend the belt and slide it between the pulley and the block, but that I just can't reach the blasted thing.
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What are the steps to fix a broken odometer on a 1995 Ranger? I assume it is probably the gears. The truck has 169 k.
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I have a 2002 Corolla with a 1.8Liter 1zzfe engine.
I can hear a loud "rattle" at 1950 rpm from the drive belt area whether I'm driving down the street or if I rev it up while parked in neutral. It's not a tapping sound, more like a sheet metal rattle but I can't locate an loose sheet metal.
I thought it might have been the drivebelt tensioner. The plastic bushing on the small bolt cracked to pieces and I simply replaced it with a stack of washers. That's the bolt at the top of the piston that screws into the valve cover. I replaced the tension but still hear that rattle. I tried to locate it with a stethoscope but no luck.
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Two years ago a mechanic told me that my rear differential mount was broken - hitting the floor board. He told me this was not dangerous - just annoying. This is a car I rarely use but now considering using more. It currently has 170000 miles on it driven in the mild climate of California. Just what is involved and what should the cost range be?
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I am very concerned regarding how often my serpentine belt needs to be replaced. First time it was replaced at 104k, second time dealer replaced it at 126k, third time at 153k. Today I went for oil change (173k) and the dealer told me that it has little cracks and recommend replacing it. Is it normal? Could it be something else is affecting it?
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I have had my Tiguan S for almost 2 years and it seems that I keep having to get it towed. I just had it to today because the serpentine belt came off when I was driving. After I bought it the fuel line was loose and it had to get put back on and after about 12000 miles my tranny went out and had to get replaced.
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I have troubles with what I thought would be a basic job: removing the belt on my 2004 Solara so that I can remove the alternator. I can't get the belt loose enough to slide it off, no matter how hard I try.
The wrench I'm using is about 12" long, I'm a big guy and I've done powerlifting in the past, meaning I can apply lots of strength on that wrench. I've just watched a youtube video of a guy with the same engine removing his belt, and he exerted a lot less effort for a lot more wrench travel. I thought that using a breaker bar is extreme.
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