I have a Toyota Corolla 96. The check light is on. I took it to AutoZone and the guy told me everything is Ok. I looked the oil level this morning and it was low. The temperature sensor is normal and the car runs fine. My car experience is almost zero....
View 13 RepliesMy 96 toyota celica check engine light is on and I get the code P0340. Also I can't seem to get my reverse light to work what could be the problem.
View 7 RepliesThis is a California car that won't pass smog tests with a lit check engine light. I don't know the specific code, but the description is that the torque converter is staying in the "off" position. Apparently the lock up torque converter is part of the emissions system in that if the torque converter does not lock up then the rpm's are higher and that produces more pollutants.
1st step was to flush out the transmission and the flush made sure all the fluid in the torque converter was removed and replaced. After that was done the trans fluid has stayed nice and clean and pink for about 400 miles. The CEL was turned off after this service but came back on in a few days at about 200 miles. Next, the solenoid that activates the torque converter was replaced. The CEL was turned off again, an this time the CEL came back on after a hour of driving on local errands.
Me and my generally good mechanic are hung up now. We were betting the solenoid change out would solve the problem. It seems that the torque converter is in fact operating properly. The tranny shifts smoothly and the rpm's drop at the proper times indicating the torque converter is locking up.
At a service station in NJ, my gas cap flew into the wind and the attendant replaced it. My check engine light came on a day after getting gas (not in NJ) so I took it in to my garage. Ends up that the (new) gas cap has a crack and a new one is getting ordered. Now, whenever I am filling up the gas tank, it keeps shutting itself off (very frequently . . . like every 1/2 gallon or so). This happened when the check engine light was on and after it was initially turned off by the mechanic. I asked a mechanic at the garage because it keeps happening and I can't fill the car fully and he said it happens with some cars and you have to hold it a certain way or something. This can't be fixed and I'll just have to get used to it until I get a new car. My question -- how could this have just started happening? Its a 2002 Corolla and I've had it for years without problems. Is it possible that when I get a new gas cap and the computer gets re-started, it will fix itself?
View 6 RepliesMy girlfriend's 2001 Toyota Corolla has a recurrent Check Engine light problem. It has 144,000 miles on it. For the last few years, we have been unable to keep the light turned off. We have replaced the oxygen sensors and cleaned the MAF sensor. Our mechanic can't find the problem.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 Toyota Corolla.
Check engine light was on so I took the car to Midas they pulled a code (133) and they said its Oxygen Sensor is not working. I took the car to Auto Zone for second opinion, Auto zone confirmed that Oxygen Sensor might be having problem. Then I inquire in couple of places for the price to fix O2 sensor, all most all places I got the same quote to fix it.And after a day or so check engine light went off. Check engine light was on for a day or so.
Now I am confused, is there a problem with Oxygen sensors? Should I still go ahead and fix these sensor or should I wait till Check engine light comes back again?
For a few months, I have been getting check engine lights on my Toyota Corolla 2002. The check engine light often goes away by itself.
I took my car to a mechanic with a decent reputation after a couple weeks of the problem. He thought he fixed it and gave the car back to me. The check engine light kept coming back on, and I kept going back. The mechanic topped off the coolant, replaced certain hoses, host clamps, sensors and other parts (like the solenoid canister). After the fifth trip back (and eight weeks of time), he refunded my money.
The check engine light comes on and goes off. Right now with no check engine light on, I get codes P0125 and PO441 PD.
What will happen if I keep ignoring these check engine lights or the codes that persist when the check engine light is not on? I was thinking of going to another mechanic. I think I want to wait for a few more weeks to see if I notice a pattern. I do not drive that many miles each day (much less than average).
I have a 2002 Toyota Corolla CE with about 115,000 miles.While I was traveling on the highway my car started shaking, losing power, and the check engine light started flashing. I drove a mile or two to a rest area because I didn't want to pull over on the highway. I had it towed home. It starts and idles, but I'm afraid to get it out on the road.
View 15 RepliesHad the oil changed today; before doing so, I saw that the check engine light had come on. Have been told by 3 professional car maintenance people that there is no connection between needing oil / oil change and check engine, that it would have been the check maintenance light.
Will take it in for diagnostic test by dealer. Also, was told by the oil change guy that he heard pinging which could mean that the car needs to have the valves adjusted, and that the check engine light is due to needing something or other with the gas tank filter which could have a leak/crack, etc.
The check-engine light on my 2006 Toyota Corolla came on a couple of weeks ago after I started the car on a 7-degree F morning. Code was P-0171. Mechanic cleaned the MAF and the light went off. Light stayed off 'til I started the car on another 7-degree F morning. Mechanic said that the MAF didn't look dirty, and the readings didn't change after cleaning. No vacuum leaks. O2 sensors responding normally. What's going on? I travel a lot in this car, so I don't want to damage the car by ignoring the check-engine light.
View 1 RepliesAbout two weeks ago, while driving on a hot, humid summer night, the check engine light in my 1998 Toyota Corolla came on. The following day, I took it into my mechanic, who plugged it in and came up with the code P0441 (Purge flow fault). He told me it was likely related to the fuel vapor canister, though I see this can also have to do with vacuum lines for the purge valve and canister or a bad purge valve itself. My gas cap was, and had been, tight, so it wasn't something as simple as that.
Reluctant to deal with this immediately, I went back to driving it, and lo and behold - the light went off after several days! Unfortunately, the light came BACK ON after several more. And most recently (a few days after coming on again), the light has now gone off!
Both times the light has gone off, the weather has been rather wet, but otherwise, there doesn't seem to be a clear pattern. What this on again off again pattern might say about the problem?
1998 Corolla LD ... Diagnostic tests show that my check engine light stays on due to a charcoal canister. Is this an expensive repair?
View 7 RepliesI have a check engine light on the car and in the past it has been bad gas or a vacuum leak. Dealer says on toyota that is not possible.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 Toyota Corolla- the CEL has been on for months- the code is for small evap leakI have tried cleaning rust from filler neck at gas cap- no change. I have had a smoke test done with no leak found.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2004 Corolla with a Check Engine light on. The Toyota dealer diagnosed this as: "Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 1 - slow to respond".
The diagnostic code is PO133. Elsewhere, I find that this code indicates:
The oxygen sensor is faulty.
The wiring to the sensor is broken / frayed.
There is an exhaust leak
Haven't noticed exhaust leakage, and I doubt the wiring is faulty.
1) Where is sensor 1?
2) Do I really need a new sensor, or can I clean the old one?
My 1998 Toyota Corolla has 180 K miles. Two days ago I was putting the pedal down to get to work on time and it bucked, began chugging like a motorcycle and the check engine light (which was already on because of an emissions issue) began to flash. A mechanic looked at it and saw that cylinder 3 wasn't sparking. He changed the plugs and wires but the engine was still chugging, especially when idling. The mechanic decided it was a stuck or burnt valve because he said he could hear/feel a lack of compression in the cylinder. I'm looking for a second opinion on the issue, and a first opinion on the mechanic!
View 5 RepliesI have a 1999 Toyota Corolla. 4 cylinders.
I was on the road about 2 hours from home when my check engine light came on flashing. It stopped flashing so I kept driving. Three more hours of driving at highway speeds and it only came back on once. I then took it into autozone and the code reader told me I had a Cylinder 3 Misfire. The guy told me to change my spark plugs and I would be fine. It was time for a spark plug change anyhow so I drove home and did it. After I changed the spark plugs the car did not start at all. It would cough and sputter and try to start but not actually start. Changed the spark plug wires and then the car stopped even coughing and sputtering. It just didn't start.
I then noticed that my fuel line that feeds directly into the engine was rotten right next to the engine and if I pushed it in I could get the car to try to start. (Try and fail, but at least try.) The fuel line is a molded piece of rubber that flares at each end. It was one of the flares that was rotten and didn't seem to be sealing anymore. The hose is 7 mm inner diameter in the middle and about half an inch on the ends. I took some 3/8 in fuel line and used it to cover over one of the flares. The car tries to start now but wont. 3 of the four cylinders crank. I don't understand how I could break my car on such a simple repair job.
My Toyota Corolla 2000, 123,000 miles, Mass license plate, still getting 34 miles per gallon, has had check engine light on and off for a year.Failed inspection this June.
First garage in Somerville, without doing more than getting the three readings above, said catalytic converter was needed $350 plus labor.I was unable to do the work then and returned to NYC and job. Took to another mechanic recently to get fixed (as I wasn't returning to Mass for a while)and got only PO 171. I mentioned the other readings; they kind of scoffed it off.Trying to save me money (I guess), they cleaned the MAF filter and fuel ejectors for $200. Looked like it was fixed. A week later check engine light came on again and when I brought in found the PO 420 reading. They did not tell me if other computer read-outs were coming up as well.
Now they want to leave the oxygen sensor in front but change the one behind. Put in a newcatalytic converter $539 {they had quoted me $238 but it wasn't an OEM one I guess and they said they wouldn't warranty anything but this expensive one), charge me$137 for the oxygen sensor190 laborplus taxfor a total of a whooping $946!
I am afraid they will do this very expensive job and the check engine light will come on and htey will say o its something else.how can i be sure? also I was reading for a catalytic converter to go bad, something has caused it...what would that be? how to find out. Do they need to do the diagnosis with gas analyzer etc?
Why I spend a huge amount for an old car that is running well, not losing gas mileage, but perhaps is a bit slower on power.
I have a 1996 Toyota corolla base model,my dome light stopped working a bout a year ago,I clean the contacts and bulb with sand paper,light would then work for about 2 weeks now When I clean contacts light will only work for a few hours. Have tryed new bulbs many times does not make any difference, don't know what to do.
View 1 Replies1996 Toyota Corolla base model 1yr ago dome lite would stop working,I then would sand contacts on dome lite and sand bulb it would then work for about 1 month now I do the same thing and lite will only work for about 20 min.(tried new bulbs many time) was told could be corroded or a bad relay, dont know what to do????
View 3 RepliesMy mechanic cannot figure out what's wrong with my car My car is a manual trans 1996 Toyota Corolla with almost 154K miles. I had the oil changed two weeks ago (about 1000 miles with my commute), and at that time, I let my mechanic know that it's been losing oil and so check it over. At that time, he changed the oil, cleaned the engine, and added a dye to the oil to show up any leaks.
I took it in this past Thursday for him to locate the leaking, and the mechanic let me know that 1) It came in mostly dry (no oil), 2) there was no visible leaking except for a seepage around the oil pan, which he says could not account for the loss of 4 quarts of oil in two weeks, and 3) it's not burning it out in the exhaust system.
A bit of the history of the car. I got it when it was at 59K, used, and there were a number of things wrong with it that I didn't discover until later, such as that no maintenance had been done to it at all in the 60K someone else had owned it. It came to me needing a timing belt, brakes, and an engine and radiator flush (the radiator fluid was brown instead of green).
At one point at around 70K, as a stupid teenager, I did let it run dry. The oil light came on, I panicked, shut it off, dumped in two quarts (which brought it to full on the dipstick, which I thought was weird), and took it straight for an oil change, where they told me it was dry, which was odd, because I'd just put 2 quarts in it.
After that, there were no issues until it hit about 120K. At that point, I started smelling burning oil and there was smoke coming from under my hood, so I towed it to my mechanic at the time. He replaced the valve cover gasket, the rear main seal, and the head gasket (with engine block machining and all). That more or less cleared the problem up, but then I took it across the country on a 3K road trip, and it ended up accidentally running dry again. Oil light came on, I shut it off, dumped in oil, took it for a lube job.
Since that time, it's been occasionally throwing me an oil light when I go downhill (I figure that this is because it's low but not out, and the change in pitch reduces the pressure?). Each time it does this, I've shut it off, coasted to a stop, dumped in 2 quarts (which brings it to full on the stick), and gone on, berating myself. These times have become more frequent, however, even though I now check the oil regularly.
So before I endure the deserved lectures about being dumb, yes, I blame myself, but regardless of my lazy maintenance, it's becoming ridiculous. My car is now finding a way to lose a gallon of oil over the course of 1000 miles, with no discernible leak or consumption.
Also, why my oil light comes on when it's only 2 quarts down on the stick sometimes, and then sometimes goes almost dry without throwing the oil light? I just got it back with the oil topped up, more dye in the engine, and instead of going for 2 weeks, I'm going for 1 week to see if maybe he can catch it in the act of learning this magic trick of vanishing oil.