Toyota - Corolla :: 1995 Won't Start / Sudden Power Loss
Jul 10, 2015
Ok I got a 1995 toyota corolla 1.8l dx .... So this is my back up car I went out started it up let it set and warm up and took it around the yard to run it a little well it ran fine then all of a sudden it lost all it's power well I finaly got it back to the drive that was only 50ft away took almost 30mins just to get it there. I cut it off let it sit started it back up and still no power well now it won't even start it has new plugs.. Wires.. Cap button.
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Having problem with 2010 Toyota Corolla. Engine light comes on as well as VSC and traction control but the engine does not shut off. I loose power and engine runs really rough. I have to pull over and unplug my battery cable and the problem is gone until a week or two later same thing happens. My gas mileage is about 10 km for every 100KM city and Highway mix. The engine idle is also rough and sometimes when I try to do a U turn or get in and out of parking the engine shuts off.
Engine scanned shows P0010 and it could be three or for causes? My problem is that mechanics change one thing which costs an arm and a leg then if that did not fix the problem they say now lets change another part? I can not afford to fix them one by one and get charged for it as they replace one part at a time.
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My 97 toyota 4-runner has now had three times with a loss of power making me unable to drive the car. The first time behaved differently than the last two times. Currently, I can't drive the car.
The first time, I had just filled up the gas tank (while the station underground tank was being filled). About 10-15 minutes later while on the interstate, I had a sudden loss of power and the vehicle eventually would not move forward at all. The idle was fine. I had it towed to my mechanic thinking I had gotten a back tank of gas. I believe the check engine light was on... he determined that it was a bad mass air flow sensor and replaced that. He said the filling of the tank was co-incidental.
Months later (Jan. 2015), during our first cold spell, I had driven the car, parked it overnight in temperatures of 9 degrees. The next morning it didn't want to start. I finally got it to idle to warm up in neutral, but then when I would give it gas to move it, it would stall. I finally got it to stay on and to move with barely enough power to drive it the mile to the mechanics. On the way it started "back-firing" under the hood and smelling progressively hotter although the engine heat light was normal. By the time I got it to the mechanic going about 5-10 mph, I thought it was going to catch fire, it smelled so bad. Check engine light never came on. The car sat there unmoved for two weeks while I was out of town. After the two weeks, the mechanic finally checked out the car (outside temp was now up in the 30's & 40's) he got it to start and drive, but it was "running rough". He cleaned up the connections on the coil, which had some corrosion and gave me back the car -- no charge.
It ran fine until yesterday, when the same scenario played out. Another cold snap (-4 degrees). Drove the car across town to do errands and fill the gas tank. parked it overnight. The next morning I couldn't get to start initially. Finally got it to idle. Warmed it up for 30 minutes but it would not stay running if I took it out of neutral and gave it any gas. Check engine light did not come on. This time the car is 30 miles away from my mechanic and I don't want to have it towed if I don't have to....
My mechanic thinks it's either a fuel or oxygen issue. He told me to have someone bang on the bottom of the fuel tanks while I try to start it to see if that effects anything.
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I have a 1995 Camry with the 4cyl 5sfe engine and a manual transmission with about 120K miles. It's been very reliable overall, but lately it's been exhibiting some strange intermittent behavior. When driving at a steady speed between 2-3K rpms, it'll sometimes experience a momentary power loss. There's no stalling, but it's as if I've hit a stiff headwind or the brakes have been applied and then release. It doesn't seem to happen when accelerating, but as mentioned above, it's most noticeable when maintaining a steady speed. Sometimes it'll be very quick like it's bucking and other times it'll last a full second or two. It'll do it in all gears at both relatively low speeds and highway speeds, so there's no pattern there. There is no check engine light when this happens, but I have not yet attempted to check codes just in case it might be storing any. It'll happen when the engine is both cold and at normal operating temperature. I've also tried to observe whether or not the tachometer drops when it bumps, but haven't really been able to discern that due to the usual momentary nature of the power loss.
The coil on this car is integrated into the distributor and I read somewhere that it's common for these to start to go as these Camrys age and accumulate a lot of miles. I also read that it's common for these cars to hesitate due to internally leaking fuel pulsation dampeners. The AC compressor makes a little noise, and sometimes it almost feels like what you would expect it to feel when the compressor kicks on, although the jolt or 1-2 second sustained power loss, depending on what occurs, feels stronger than that. Plus it'll do it with the AC off, so that doesn't seem to be a possibility. Other than this problem, the car has no issues whatsoever. It's quiet, uses very little oil, idles perfectly and maintains optimal operating temperature. The miles are about 75% highway since I've been using it mostly as an airport commuter car. Most essential maintenance items, such as the clutch, timing belt, water pump, oil seals, PCV valve, thermostat, radiator, motor mounts, etc. have been replaced within the last 15K miles, and most are Toyota OEM parts. Plugs, wires, cap and rotor have all been replaced within the last 10K miles, again with Denso plugs and wires, but aftermarket cap and rotor. I did feel up under the distributor and got some fresh oil on my fingers, so the o-ring might be leaking a bit. However, I don't know yet if there is any internal leakage inside the distributor itself.
I'm going to tear into it a bit, but I wanted to see which direction to look first. Would you suspect a spark issue (again, no CEL illuminates), or something more like a fuel delivery issue? I also wondered if it might be something like the TPS or perhaps a cam or crank position sensor on the way out.
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Well zipping along the highway tonight, sitting on 100KM/h, and all of a sudden the engine loses all power. As luck would have it a fuel station was just closing (the only one for half an hour either side) and kept the lights on so I could have a look. The starter is nice and lively, and the engine is trying to fire, but just wouldn't. I asked a mate of mine in town to come out and give me a hand troubleshooting.
As it turns out, when the ignition switch is set to the "ON" position, normally the fuel pump primes the lines. It's only doing it intermittently for some strange reason, and not making it past the fuel filter (despite the filter being new). The temporary buzzing in the engine bay when the car is switched off is gone now too.
Now my question is - does this sound like fuel pump? I'm only used to the older fuel pumps in carburetor vehicles, not these fingle fangle electric things!
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I have an '87 Toyota Corolla, automatic transmission, 4 door sedan with 80,000 miles on her. Recently have experienced a power and mpg loss. Top speed going uphill (30% grade) is 35. Recent repairs include replacing the timing belt, fuel/water pumps, flush cooling/transmission systems, and tune up to no avail!!! So what’s left? Could it be the catalytic converter? I do live in the mountains at 9,000 ft.
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I have a 2005 Corolla LE 5-speed with 101,xxx. I have owned it a year and last fall noticed that when it got cold and first started it up the car would idle hunt. While getting some warranty work done I brought it up to the dealership and they said the throttle body was dirty and they would clean it for 100. I found a local garage that will clean it for fifty. I think my new problem may be related.
I have noticed during the past week or so when I am in 3rd and 4th, haven't noticed in 5th yet, gear when I get around 3,000rpm and I punch it just a little bit lets say to pass someone I initially lose power before the car goes. It feels almost like an automatic that has a transmission slipping but it's a stick and it does not occur while changing gears. It is very brief. I lean into the pedal a bit and then the car loses power just a bit and then peps up and goes.
I am wondering if this may be related to the throttle positioning sensor having crud on it. There is also no check engine light on.
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I recently bought an 87 Toyota corolla fx 16 as I totaled out my other car hitting a deer when I test drove this car I had no issues on this car it had high miles at 197k but it seemed to purr like a kitten it wasn't until I started to drive it back and forth to work that I noticed the issue when the car is cold it runs and idles fine a little bit of shift hesitation but figured that might be a dirty transmission filter as the fluid appeared discolored however when the car warms up it shifts fine and begins to cut out and the Rpms dip under 1k every 20-30 seconds.
It becomes worse when the car is in gear driving down the road it randomly cuts out and seems to lose power while occasionally backfiring and if I come to a stop and leave it in gear it will die if I don't feather the throttle just right on takeoff or press it to the floor when I press it to the floor it's slow on take off and sounds like a mix of backfiring and missing and then suddenly takes off like a bat out of hell once I hit about 20 mph. When it dies the check engine light comes on but as soon as I start it it goes back off. I've already changed a bunch of the routine stuff since the car sat for a year such as fuel filter, air filter, plugs, wires, coil, rotor, valve cover gaskets, and replaced nearly all the vacuum lines trying to figure it out thinking its something simple.
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Recently purchased a 2004 Toyota Corolla in August. Last night coming home from a show (I'm a musician), the airbag light came on, my headlights seemed to be very dim.Eventually my car radio started to flicker and the mph and rxp meters as well as the odometer started to go up and back down and up while no juice from the gas peddle seemed to go to acceleration. Pulled over, car kinda sputtered like it was a dying battery. Turned it off. Waited tuned it back on and it tried to roll over but sounded like a dead battery again. The interior lights worked fine, all the of symbols (oil, battery engine) flashed but no ignition, radio or lighter charge .
After a long while tried again and it started with some coaxing, made it two more miles down the road and same thing happened, radio lights flicker, dim headlights, airbag light comes on, meters go crazy, lose acceleration. Waited a while, tried it, turned on, it turned on and we sat with it idling and same process happened while sitting there after just a short time. Dim headlights, Radio flicker, airbag light, meters crazy, slow lose of juice.
It has a brand new battery, it's a used car, I've been driving it with the check engine light on but have gotten it looked previously to disclose it was a sensor thing. Recently took it to the Toyota dealership for three recallsOne had to do with the airbags. After it was worked on the second time by them for two other recalls (one had to do with the door and I can't recall the other but am looking for the paper) my battery light came on. And has come off and on for about a week or two but with no trouble. Mostly in town driving. This trip I took was about at 40mi trip back and forth, it did fine up but coming home not so good. I'm not sure if it's any relation but that's the only "repairs" I've had done since purchasing the vehicle
Alternator? Bad battery? Electrical stuff?
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I have a 2008 Toyota RAV 4 that I have serviced regularly, and it's not due for an oil change for another 1,000 miles. Recently, the oil light started flashing briefly only when I stepped on the brake pedal. I finally checked the dipstick, and it needed 2 quarts of oil. There is no evidence of oil leaks on the ground under the car. It is also not smoking. If it was burning oil, wouldn't there be smoke from the exhaust pipe? If there are no visible oil leaks and it doesn't appear to be burning oil, how else could the oil have disappeared?
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I have an 05 corolla XRS. I just had a sport clutch put in about 1 year ago. Whenever I shift into 4th gear and accelerate, the RPMs drop about 500 and I lose power for about 3 seconds before it starts going back up. Other gears are acting normal. Best part is that I let my friend drive the car earlier and since he did it's been doing this.
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My 95 civic lossed all power slowly while doin 70mph on the freeway in 5th gear and wouldn't accelerate no matter how much gas i gave it. My battery lihht came on at the same time. I just put a new engine, transmission, distributor, engine mounts. Where I should start looking for a problem first.
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My 2000 corolla has consistently gotten 35 MPG until last month, suddenly I've dropped to 18-20 miles per gallon, a friend suggested fuel filter fail, but i can't discern if it has an external one...
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My 2006 Toyota Corolla will suddenly decelerate for a period of 3 to 5 seconds. No warning lights come on and the engine does not cut out. This has been happening sporadically for about 2 years. It will occur 2 ot 3 times in a day of driving. The dealership says they cannot diagnose the problem since they can't duplicate it. The ECM was replaced several months ago. The car has 120000 miles on it. I just got a new battery and transmission fluid.
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I am still failing to appropriately diagnose the problem(s) with my '03 Ford E-350 7.3L Powerstroke. This van has only 69,000 miles on it. A week or two back (just a few days back in work time) it suddenly went from running perfectly smooth, clean and wonderful to this:
- Zero power. Putting the van in gear and flooring the engine causes lots more smoke not nearly any rev of the engine and just a crawl forward.
- Lots of smoke out the back exhaust, whitish. I cannot discern wether it smells like diesel or oil (because I'm ignorant here), but the smell is very strong.
- After warming up and idling ~ 15 min I check under the coolant cap and see no signs of bubbling or disruption (from opening the cap in the coolant tank).
- After warming up there are no warning lights visible on the dash, and I don't have a computer to read codes (if there are any to read).
- I replaced the turbo up-pipes which had a visible leak previously. This did not hurt the symptoms, though no more visual leaks under the dog house.
- I thought maybe I put gasoline instead of diesel in the truck, not so.
- To do the above test I had to use the fuel pump to get gas out the tank to test. I hijacked the fuel pump output and turned the car on a few times to get gas out to a tank. The pump seemed to work just fine.
This was all very sudden which is perplexing, and, in use, the van was previously an ambulette and in my few miles with it (maybe 200-300 only) use was extremely light for such an engine/van, just driving around doing errands. I am not sure if this is relevant (no one has suggested so, yet) but before all this happened I uninstalled the rear HVAC that came with the van when I bought it. The AC lines were sealed under the hood. The coolant line was returned at the doghouse (you can see this at the beginning of the video).
At the moment the van has no power to go anywhere. I have not yet checked the CPS or IPC sensors, and understand this might be the next route in standard troubleshooting?
2003 Ford E 350 7.3L Trouble - YouTube....
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I just had my '12 GTI's 40,000 mile service done about 2 weeks ago. I put in a K&N air filter the day after the service. The only thing I noticed about the car after service was that I could smell coolant, they either spilled some or its burping some cause it was filled past the max fill line. Outside of that everything was copacetic until yesterday morning.
On my way to the gym with cruise control on ~74 mph on the highway I had sudden power loss, EPC light came on and power returned although felt reduced. When I left the gym it was off and I made it about a mile when under acceleration it hit at about 3k rpm, again sudden power loss and EPC light, power returned reduced. Drove about 5 miles to work and did a little googling with a million results.
When I left work to go home I made it about ten minutes into my drive before it happened. This time the CEL came on. I was able to drive home and back to work again this morning but I keep having power shutters followed by the EPC. I haven't had much time to dig into anything but I checked the connection of the coils and the intake connections with a flashlight at 4:30 this morning. Thinking it might be the MAF only because I recently installed the K&N and have read the oil can kill MAF's and I might stop to get a can of cleaner on my way home to try that route.
IF that doesn't work maybe I can get it on a Vag Com in the next couple days to get it sorted out.
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I have VW99 Passat 1.8L Turbo, automatic with 170K on it.
My car shop changed engine oil yesterday with 4 QTS of Mobile 5W40. Now, when I check my dipstick today, on level surface, the oil level is way too high on dipstick kink [the cross-hatched mark]. I run the engine, shut it off, and let it set for 3 min, but still the level is too high above the Mark. It wets the dipstick almost till the top of its Head.It was reading High when I first checked it, this morning, before starting my car.
It seems the oil is 'overfilled' or showing over filled; and the engine is about to throw it out from "filler cap" where Dipstick goes in the engine. I saw him using 4 cans 1 QTS oil, which I bought, into my car. They did change the "oil filter" at the same time?
Now, my car looses power while driving. When I accelerated from a stop/light, car slows down or limps. The car suffered a sudden loss of power.It runs awful for about a mile but smoothed out after acceleration.It feels like the car is running out of gas for a few seconds, then all of a sudden it kicks in. The car still drives ok though - No error messages/warnings on dash,CEL, no smoke, no hissing. I actually don't see engine oil thrown out or leaking though.
I don't know if the shop drained the "intercooler" while changing the oil, also I know nothing about its importance to my power loss issue. The net search manual/states "The engine oil, above the level, can be drawn into the crankcase ventilation system, and enter the atmosphere via the exhaust system". But it does says about damaging the engine/car.
Should I be worried about the damage to the engine?
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I have a 2004 F250 6.0 DuperDuty with about 170,000 miles on it, so far no major break-downs, just a starter and a blinker relay, but now I have a problem.
When I start now, the truck starts fine and it sounds fine, but it has almost no power even if I floor the gas peddle, there is a delay of like 2-3 seconds and then responds slowly, like some tractor. Eventually it starts to move slowly, and after it warms up (after a few minutes), the gas peddle responds more normal.
Also - at about 45mpg, at lower RPMs about 1250, the engine starts to shake (weird), it doesn't do it at idle about 850 RPM, or when I get it up to about 1800RPM+, but at about that 1250 RPM it does do it, luckily I driver locally for a few miles.
What could this be ? What exactly happens when I press on the gas peddle, what systems are involved and in which order?
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I've got a 2004 F250, 6.0, with 150k miles. I was pulling a motorcycle trailer uphill in the mountains when suddenly I couldn't go over 10 to 15 mph. All the gauges read good but it just couldn't get any power.
Got to the top and checked over everything. Didn't see any issues. Drove it home (200 miles) the next day. It drove okay on highway but it felt like the turbo wasn't coming on. Coolant was low and EGR was gunked up but only slightly wet. From what I read, it sounds like EGR cooler is failing but would that cause the turbo not to come on or feel like that loss of power? Reading another thread, I thought it might be the fuel pickup but I dropped the tank and the sending unit looked very good.
I'm ready to throw on a bulletproof egr cooler, oil cooler and rebuild the turbo if necessary but hate to get to the end and find out none of that worked.
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My 2011 6.7 suddenly lost power, started making noise and then stalled out.
After finding out that there are zero 24 hour service companies available in the LA area, I was able to get it towed to the local Ford dealer.the next day they told me it had dropped the #5 cylinder and that they would have to tear into it to find out what happened.
While I realize that any thoughts on the situation would be primarily idle speculation, what would cause this to happen at only 125,000 miles.
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Ok I have an early 2004 F250. Recently changed out the #8 injector and then had to replace the ICP Sensor. Was running great then while driving down the road just died all of a sudden. Would start right back up with no issues. Continue driving and I am getting intermittent power loss. Also noticed that when it would lose power suddenly the glow plug light would come on.
Codes are P0102, P0113, P0272, and P1000.
P0102 Mass or Volume flow circuit low input
P0113 Intake Temp circuit High input
These are just soft codes not setting a light off. MAF is plugged in and I will check wiring here later after work but could this be causing my intermittent issues?
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