I have a 1993 corolla auto trans and when I first try to take it out of park it will not shift. I noticed that when I push the brake pedal to the floor it finally shifts. I recently replaced the brake switch, could the adjustment be a problem?
View 1 RepliesI've recently bought a 2002 toyota corolla wagon. I noticed the transmission fluid of the automatic gearbox has been overfilled. This measurement was with a cold and switched off engine and on a level ground. Is this something I should be concerned about and can it cause damage? Should I have it drained to the normal level or is it ok to keep it this way? I didn't come with a manual so I'm not sure if i measured correctly.
View 1 RepliesThe transmission went out on my toyota 4 runner ...
View 1 RepliesI just bought a 1993 Plymouth Voyager recently and the transmission is making a sort of howling sound in low and second gears. It seems to be shifting fine and the sound stops once you get going but I am concerned because the sound is slowly increasing. The fluid looks real old but is stillfairly red. A little bit darker than what it should be with a little bit of brown, but not super bad. I am wondering if maybe someone put in the wrong kind of fluid or maybe the filter is old or clogged, is the pumps system wearing out or bad bearings or what. I know that I need to change the fluid and clean or replace the filter but am I probably looking at something significantly hard to fix or expensive. I can get a free diagnosis at a shop, but I am looking to try and get this fixed myself if possible as I am fairly mechanically inclined and have lots of free time. I am just wondering if changing the fluid and filter will make much of a difference in the life of this transmission. So what is making this sound and is it something not too complicated that can be fixed without a major effort. Is there something fairly easy and cheap to do besides the fluid or do I just drive it.
View 7 RepliesReverse stopped working after it's been driven for a while. It works when it's cold. I'm actually hoping this was caused by my stupidity (though it may have nothing to do with the problem). A while ago I wanted to change my oil, but opened the auto transmission plug instead. I decided to put new trans. fluid in it. I thought I would add trans fluid until I could see it on the dip stick. After the problem with reverse started I tried to again read dip stick but can't tell where the level is, so I decided to drain trans. fluid to measure it. Owner's Manual calls for 8.8 qts. Drained fluid measured only about 4 qts. I added more. Now it looks like dipstick shows it ~2 inches above the full/hot mark. Questions:
1) Would fluid level affect reverse and not forward (with which there is no problem)?
2) Is method of draining trans. fluid & measuring it a valid way of telling how much is in it, i.e. would all... or most... fluid drain out so the 8.8 qts. in the owner's manual should be added back in?
3) Am I misreading the dipstick? I've tried letting it set for 4 or 5 days, but still fluid seems to smear high on the dipstick.
My Jeep GC ZJ 1993 with 202202 miles V8 engine and automatic transmission cuts off/engine shuts down. I have found that when I put it into 2nd or 1st gear it never shuts off. For example, I am driving with AT in D (Drive) and come to a stop, the engine shuts down. However, if I move the selector to 2nd before coming to a stop it never shuts down. BTW it also shudders and headlights dim and battery voltage drops before it shuts down.
View 8 RepliesI have a 36 foot motor home on a 2000 Ford F53 chassis. (similar to single axle freight trucks and school busses) After getting one set of the rear wheels partially stuck, which resulted in some spinning of that side, the overdrive off light on the shift lever began to blink and the service engine soon light came on. The fault code said, "speed sensor showing more than one mile per hour". Now the automatic transmission sometimes will not shift into first gear after stopping and has to be manually downshifted, after which, it works fine.
View 1 Replies2200 Miles... It will not shift into 2nd gear in automatic and the rpms race up to 4000 when going about 20 mph. The only way to get it to work again is turning car off and on again. It has only happened twice.
View 7 RepliesWhere I can find information on how to swap out the shift know on an automatic transmission in my 2003 Passat GLX? I bought a new knob but don't know how to get the old one off.
View 1 RepliesI have a BMW 523i SE AUTO (1997) 2494 Petrol. In auto transmission the gears will shift from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd but won't shift any higher. In steptronic/manual transmission the gears will shift from 1st to 5th without any problems therefore suggesting that the problem isn't the gearbox itself. Only very occasionally does the shift electronics telltale light appear on the dash, yet the problem with the auto transmission is continuous. A local garage specializing in automatics suggested that it was the gearbox inhibitor. I've today had this changed but the problem still exists.
View 5 RepliesMy 1993 Toyota Corolla station wagon is not starting. The starter tries but the car does not start. It was fine yesterday but just won't start today.
View 5 RepliesI have a 93 Corolla that won't start. Here was the approximate sequence of events:
Car had been sitting for about 1 week. Went to start it and no cranking sound occurred. I tried repeatedly and heard an occasional click and the dash warning lights would vary in brightness from full bright to very dim. Got my friend to give me a jump start and it cranked/started on the first attempt. Drove around for about 20 minutes to recharge the battery.When I got home I turned the car off and made another attempt and ... nothing. No cranking sound, just a click. So I tried again and all of a sudden it started IMMEDIATELY (first crank)!So I turned it off again, and now every subsequent attempt just causes a lot of clicking, and the dash lights come on but vary a great deal in terms of how bright they are.
So... I'm thinking it can't be the battery. If it was the battery that wouldn't explain why it started immediately following not starting. Seems strange that the jump worked, but perhaps that was just a lucky attempt.
What do you think? Bad ignition switch? Anything else I can test?
I have a 1993 Toyota Corolla 1.6L with 200K miles. It is a sweet ride, but about every 2 or 3 years, the exhaust manifold cracks. I have replaced it several times, installing new gaskets, and carefully following the torque specifications on all of the bolts, but eventually, it cracks again.
View 18 RepliesMy girlfriend has a 1993 corolla, with a little over 200,000 miles on it, manual transmission. It has been running great until a couple days ago. Driving back from Seattle, we noticed the car hesitating while driving. With the gas applied, it seemed as if the car was hesitating forward and backward, it seemed as if the engine wasn't getting enough gas. This happens in all gears, but less so in 5th I think. The next morning, while stopped with the clutch in, the car seemed to be always on the verge of dying out, with the RPMs dropping, and then revving back up constantly, right before it seemed the engine would die. The engine hasn't actually cut out yet, but it seemed very close. We shifted into neutral and the same problem was happening, so I don't think it's a clutch problem.
View 8 RepliesI have a 93 Corolla LE and in October I was driving in heavy rain and the car died. Since then I have replaced the spark plug wires, plug seals, distributor cap, battery, and rotor. The car would get me from A to B, but I would always have to put it in neutral at a stop to keep it from dying. This past week we've had a lot of rain and it's been really cold so my car has been dying when I slow down or stop. I gave it plently of time to heat up thinking it would work, but it died three times on the way to work.
View 15 RepliesI started experiencing a delay in my shift points going from 2nd to 3rd gear. Then today I was driving and my automatic transmission wouldn't shift into third gear...the speedometer stuck at 20 mph...and it would rev all the way to red line, but wouldn't shift.
There is no "abnormal" noise coming from the transmission, or from the drive train. I suspect that this has something to do with the shift points and the computer rather than a mechanical problem with the transmission.
I would like to know what it could be before I take it into the dealer to get it diagnosed.
Girlfriend has a '92 automatic. Transmission's been acting up for several months, periodically not wanting to shift into higher gears. Now, it will not shift at all after the first one, about 20 mph. Engine whines, but has power up to about 50 mph. Odometer states 64,xxx miles but don't know if accurate.
Need info on possible causes, other than total rebuild. Been reading about speed sensors, shift solenoids, control modules, as well as replacing fluid/filter and adding a treatment.
My 2002 Explorer LTD with 155K miles on it is in terrific shape except for a worsening rough shift into overdrive (automatic transmission) and a clunk which occurs with increasing frequency when I shift into reverse. I would love to keep the car but don't want to spend the money for a new or rebuilt transmission. There is no access for owner approach to transmission fluid - I have already looked in the manual. I would need to take the truck to a garage as I cannot do repairs myself.
View 2 RepliesEarlier this year, I worked with my dealer to get a new automatic transmission for my 2007 Accent. I had only had the car for a couple months (purchased used, from my Grandmother who I knew, if anything, had probably been TOO gentle with it.) Only about 40,000km. I found the car extremely hesitant to shift on cool mornings, and allowing the engine to warm up first didn't make much difference. The 2-3 shift was especially late.
The last straw was when, on a frosty morning, the transmission failed to engage 3rd, bucked back out to find 2nd again, and then got 3rd on the next try. It did this a couple of mornings before I was done negotiating with the dealer, who ultimately agreed to supply a new transmission if I paid labour. This despite the car being just outside the 5-year powertrain warranty. I was quite satisfied.
So I enjoy the Summer with no problems -- only the barest hint of transmission "morning sickness", but only if I'm rushing it. I figure "that's an economy car for you". Now that cooler Fall weather has begun, I'm convinced that the new transmission behaves the same way as the first one. I haven't had the "bucking out of gear" problem yet, but the 2-3 shift is already a real dog on cool mornings.
Recently I had a stuttering and squealing from a belt. I was able to shift into all gears with no problems. Before I could get it looked at, the squealing stopped and I was unable to go faster than 30 mph. The belt and pulley were replaced, but the car now will not shift out of 2nd gear. Transmission fluid is good, and has not been leaking. Does this indicate that I will need a new transmission? Or is there possibly a less expensive possibility? I've heard that some vehicles have what's called "limp mode". Also, is it safe to drive at 30-35 mph., and what damage might I do by driving it?
View 4 RepliesMy 95 ford Aerostar 3.0 automatic trans wont shift into overdrive, here's what happened. a small hose on the side of the transmission came off, this must have popped off when I was stepping on the gas with the brake on in drive and reverse. It took 2 months to find the hose off, during those 2 months I had to shift the van manually, you had to get high RPMS before it would shift.
About 2 weeks before I found the problem I notice the van would not kick into overdrive. When I finally found the issue and reconnected the hose the trans shifted fine but still would not kick into overdrive though. Is there another vacuum hose that goes to the main vacuum housing? or an adjustment on the linkage area? This has been like this for about 6 months now and I can go on a highway..