5 speed stick shift, first thing in the morning no problem, after driving a while it shakes in reverse and does not want to move, going forward is no problem, clutch and cv joints were replaced 4 years ago, 170k miles.
View 6 RepliesLast night when accelerating from 40 to 60 mph I felt a "whoosh" and then the RMPs went to 3000 when I had my foot on the pedal. They dropped to 1200 if I let off. This morning the car would shift into reverse, but punching the accelerator did nothing. Other gears are fine. I rolled out of the drive, stopped at the mech and diagnostics showed only a bad speed sensor. I saw a post elesewhere that had a similar issue in 2006, same model Toyota Sienna 2000 xle. Mech pricing the transmission replacement. Could it just be malfunctioning speed sensor sending bad data to the ECM?
View 1 RepliesCorolla '04: I have to press the brake pedal extremely hard to get the shifter to move out of the Park position.
View 5 RepliesI have a 1992 Toyota Corolla that will not start in the summers when the engine gets hot This is the 3rd summer it has happened as I attempt to run errands on the weekend and make several stops. After the 2nd or 3rd location, the car will not start. I must wait 30-45 min. for the car to cool down. I have called tow trucks before and by the time they get to me they are able to start the car. They always check the battery and tell me it is fine. I even bought a new battery just to make sure the first summer it happened. Obviously something is heating up, but what?
View 4 RepliesI bought the car new in '92 and have taken very good car with oil changes and required maintenance. The vehicle just turned 200 K miles, although mechanics have said they have seen these cars top 300 K miles. Noise started about a month ago and was initially noticed after turning off the engine after a 15 mile drive. Started happening more frequently after 10-15 mile drives.
Now it happens on short drives (5-6 miles), but not every time, and not when I brought to my mechanic to examine (figures!). Water was put through the radiator hose to flush out any trapped air, so that is not it. The noise is a cross between a grumbling of both air and water and it goes on for quite awhile. I stayed in the car about 3-4 minutes after shut off and it was still acting up.
I occasionally experience steering wheel vibration no matter what speed I'm traveling. It starts out as a small shake and eventually becomes nearly impossible to hold onto the steering wheel. On two separate occasions, the brakes have gone out.The car has passed PA state safety inspection and I have taken it to 3 different mechanics and no one can figure out what the problem is. I have had new tires and spark plugs installed, keep up with regular oil changes, etc.
2004 Toyota Corolla S, 4 cylinders, 1.81 l engine, 240,000 miles, manual transmission..
The car is a manual transmission 2005 Toyota Corolla with around 90,000 miles. I'm not the only owner. The car was bought used. It appears that the car was in a front end accident that doesn't appear in a carfax report. This can be identified by the poor clearcoat paint job on the hood flaking off and the absence of the air conditioner, as well as some rather pathetic body, work with noticeable bends and a few missing screws. Most of which I consider cosmetic and irrelivant to the car's operations.
The tires are bald and the car has had an alignment about 2 years ago after I replaced the struts. I wasn't notified of any bad ball joints, but that doesn't mean thats out of the question. The car has a bit of a shake at high speeds. Sometimes the shaking is violent enough to reduce speed. I noticed that more often the shake is really bad above 60 and quite scary above 70. This isn't always the case. Sometimes the shake isn't as noticable by comparison.
At low speeds the car seems to have a wobble or repeatative hop. The steering wheel has a rythmic pattern moving back and forth a few degrees. Enough to make holding a full cup or soda not a safe choice unless the desire is to wear the drink. The wobble appears to be a little worse when the car is cold. Winter mornings seem to bring out the worst in the wobble.
I would like to do as much work on my own as possible to save $, but I realize I may need professional service equipment to diagnose some of this. Can car tires be diagnosed for having bulges with some sort of test aside from visual inspection alone? Is there a tool that can be used to verify the metal of the wheel is true and not the source of the wobble? Do wobbles and shakes derive from bad tie rods and/or ball joints? What is the most common problem that produces symptoms similar to mine?
I enjoy the car's money saving potential, but it lacks an air conditioner which is vital for defrost operations and keeping the insane summer heat tolerable. If the repairs will cost me more than the car is worth I may choose to invest that money into a 2005 model as a replacement since I've grown tired of the lack of radio and no air conditioner. I'm trying to keep 5ish years behind the curve as not to waste money on the politics of new car value depreciation.
I have a 2000 Corolla CE with 48k miles that I bought 2 months ago. I took it in for an alignment and balance because it was pulling to one side and the steering shakes slightly at 70mph.
The before measurements was this:Left Front:Camber: 0.0Caster: 1.2Toe: 0.17
Right Front:Camber: -0.7Caster: 1.6Toe: 0.28
Front Total Toe: 0.45Steer Ahead: -0.06
Rear Left:Camber: -1.0Toe: 0.50
Rear Right:Camber -0.7Toe:-0.04
Rear Tota
I just bought a 2010 Corolla S a few days ago and noticed today that the driver side mirror shakes while driving. I think the mirror might be a little loose. Is there a way to tighten the mirror without damaging the housing?
View 3 RepliesMy 1992 one ton Toyota pickup with the V6 died on my several times Thursday morning driving to work. The first time it restarted but made a bad noise on the highway. I pulled over the next time and it took a while to restart and had some white smelly exhaust smoke. It died a couple more times before I got to work. My mechanic told me there are some bad noises coming from the timing belt area and the harmonic balancer is bad but those shouldn't cause the dying. It has 278k miles on it and I'd love to hit 300k.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1992 Toyota MR2 and the other day I was driving home on the freeway. I started to hear this slight ticking noise from the engine compartment. I let off the gas and the noise stopped. I decided to pull over at the next exit but when I steeped on the gas again the engine died. No idiot lights on or gauges going wild that I remember seeing.
Now it won't even attempt to start. When I tried to roll start it, (it's a manual transmission) the wheels were locked up and actually tried rolling backward. When the car died on the freeway it just rolled to a stop so I know the tires worked fine when it died. What this might be? By the way, it's a non-turbo, 2.2 liter.
My husband's 1991 Toyota Corolla goes into reverse when he first starts it in the morning but...then it won't go into reverse the next time (same day) he tries to start it.
View 2 RepliesI'm new here and I am having issues with my Lumina. It is a 93 Chevy Lumina Euro 3.1L 6 cylinder and has 192K miles on it. It has had one owner for the past ten years that I know for a fact.
Here's what happened. I was coming back home (2hr trip) The brakes had started making that roaring sound on the way down and had gotten worse when I got ready to make the trip home. Okay so I know the brake pads needed to be changed. No big deal. Well going down the road at 65mph I round a curve and my car starts making this REALLY LOUD grinding clattering noise. It took me forever to get it stopped. I will still in the road and I needed to get it out bc it was right around a curve. So I put it in drive and it wont move. So I put it in reverse and it moves just fine with no problems and no noises made. After backing it out of the road I tried to put it in drive. It moved forward a few inches and stopped like something was binding it up.
So here's the problem.. it will move in reverse with no problems at all and only creeps a couple of inches forward then stops. The harder you press on the gas the more it tries to lurch forward but will not move.. like it's caught on something.
We changed the rear brakes on it. Discovered that the driver side rear rotor and caliper were broke beyond repair so we replaced those too. Still the same.. moves forward a lil bit and stops but will go in reverse just fine. We don't seem to think its the tranny bc it pulls hard and seems to not have any problems pulling.. but its like something is bound up somewhere. That is the best way I know how to explain this situation.
My trailblazer will not move in reverse , and will barely move forward, i checked transmission fluid hot and it's not even on the dipstick but when it was cold. it was?? Do I add more or what?..
View 9 RepliesI had terrible issues driving in the snow /ice last month. The car literally would not move forward. I bought 4 new Michelin Tires (Weatherwise II) but am thinking I should put on Snow Tires. Can I put them on the front only since the car is FWD? Also, which tire to choose?
View 11 RepliesBrake and Revers lights not working on 1999 Toyota Corolla? I have checked fuses and wire connections with no results. My brake and reverse lights just stopped working yesterday and I don't know what else to check.
View 1 RepliesMy '99 Toyota Corolla with 145K miles is making this rattling noise. It is audible in drive and reverse, but not in neutral or park. At first I thought coming from the dashboard area, like under the hood. However, I tried listening under the hood and couldn't really hear it over the engine noise. Finally I realized it actually seems to be coming from under the dashboard on the driver's side, right above the pedals. I made a recording holding the microphone down there. Here is a link to the audio file: [URL] .....
View 3 RepliesSo, I don't know if any of these problems are related but a few months ago, I accidentally put diesel fuel in my car. We got it flushed out (used some fuel injector cleaner and filled the tank up to dilute what fuel was left after i siphoned it) and my car was doing fine. Then my car started running really shitty, just taking forever to accelerate, revving really hard when I gassed, but not going fast at all, so we changed the spark plugs, oil, and transmission fluid and now it drives forward just fine, but will not reverse. all it does is move forward a bit then stop. It will drive in neutral up to 20-25 mph. What might be wrong??
View 3 RepliesToyota corolla 2013 automatic gear reverse lights don't work after I installed new stereo it's my fault i shorted 12v positive backup (reverse) light trigger camera stereo v12+ cable to ground while backup (gear R) in place. As a result reserve lights don't work beside gear indicator doesn't show on main screen. I can drive without problem but problem still intact.
I checked all fuses and they are all okay I need to identify problem or possible repair too I only find 2 fuses behind glove box i think they call "instrument panel" there are bunch of cable and underneath of cables there is only 2 rectangle shape fuses I could not see anything else, the other fuse box is in engine compartment i thoroughly tested each small fuses they are all okay is there anything else i forgot to check ?
I attached also instrument panel screen shot ....
During our last ice storm during a nice long skid down an icy hit, I reverted suddenly back to my days one decade ago of driving a stick-shift in the ice and tried to down-shift our '98 Camry (automatic). I placed it in reverse. It stalled. The car continues to run, but the check engine light came on. I took it into the garage and they couldn't find any engine issues. They turned off the check engine light. It came back on the next day. Sometimes it sounds like the gears aren't shifting automatically as I drive (rpms run high.) Am I damaging the car by continuing to drive it?
View 3 RepliesI recently had a problem with my Mitsubishi GTO 1992 Non Turbo MANUAL Japanese import.When I was revving it would simply rev and the car would hardly move. I had the whole clutch changed and the slave cylinder. This fixed the most of it but now, a couple of days later, when my car gets warm it happens again, particularly in high gears.
If the clutch and slave cylinder have been changed, what can it be?