Toyota - Corolla :: 1991 - After Loud Thunk Front Wheel Locked Up?
Feb 9, 2014
The differential inside the trans. of my 91 Corolla 1.6L with 175K grenaded as I was cruising down the highway. Just heard a loud "thunk" and the front wheels locked up. The stock trans is a three speed A131L hooked up to the AE92. The engine still has a lot of life left in it so I will be putting a new transmission in it. This 6th generation Corolla was availabe with a four speed trans. Can I replace it with a four speed trans? I can get the shifter out of a recycling yard but don't know if anything else needs changed-out.
I'd like to get a re-manufactured trans as who knows how the previous owner took care of their transmission if I pulled one out of the bone yard. I'd hate to put in a trans only to have to re-do the job three months later. Are there any reputable transmission re-builders you would recommend? I'm in the Tampa area and am willing to go anywhere in the state for a known good trans.
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I have a 1991 toyota 4runner with 4wheel drive stick shift and it has been making a loud rrrrrrrrrrrr sound. It seemed like it was coming from the front right wheel or somewhere close to that area, so I checked the brake pads and rotor for rocks or any other object that might have gotten stuck. There was nothing stuck, however I did notice that the boots were ripped. So I changed both front axles and I also replaced the wheel bearing only from where the noise appears to be coming from. The noise is still there. It makes the noise sometimes, if i'm going slow or fast. Other than that, the car drives well.
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I recently brought my 2005 toyota corolla to my mechanic to give my car a check up as i will be going on a three week road trip soon.Upon assessment, my mechanic told me that my front right wheel bearing was making a strange noise and that i should replace it. I went ahead and had it replaced. after i had it replaced the front right wheel area was still making a grinding noise (louder than before it was replaced). I brought it back and he replaced it again with a new wheel bearing.
Again after the 2nd replacement it continued to make a load crunching, grinding noise when ever i brake the car. So once again, i brought it back. I thought perhaps it was my brake rotor and had him check that. He did just that and said the break was fine. He said it may be because the axl was not sitting true. so i had the axl replaced. well today i picked up the car and drove it approx 5 miles and the same crunching/grinding noise persists!!! I brought it back and it is once again being worked on. I need it fixed and am worried that my car won't hold up for my upcoming 4000mile road trip. I have attached a video clip of the sound to this post.
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I hit a curb in my 97 corolla now it's making a noise in the front driver side wheel well driving down the road, what it is?
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My car is a 2000 Corolla CE I bought 2 months ago with 45k miles. It does not have ABS system.
Before I took the mechanic:When I brake, there would be a "clamping" noise from the drivers front wheel sometimes. It sounds like the caliper "clamping" noise. The brake cylinder would also click the first time (and maybe second) the pedal is pressed.
The mechanic replaced the both front calipers, put new brake pads, installed rear drums and shoes, and changed brake fluid.
The brake pedal is now high and when I brake....it does brake but it's not like "instant stopping power" like new brake pads. Is this normal? (maybe I have to break them in). Also, the master cylinder is still clicking (I pump the brakes since my car has no ABS)....it clicks the first 2 times I pump. Is that normal?
Edit:Since the repair, I drove it for the second time. This time the brakes brake more "instantly". The clicking of the master cylinder is still there however, could this be due to air in the hoses?
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I have a 1991 Toyota Corolla Wagon (150,000 miles) with noise coming from right front wheel well. My car is making groaning and creaking noises like the hinges of an old wooden door. CV joints serviced <5000 miles and the boots are clean and intact. There is no clicking noises during a turn Left or Right. Bouncing the right front corner does not replicate the sounds, tho' there is some slight squeaking noise not heard from the shocks/struts in the other corners. The sound is NOT heard in the morning going to work, but is very noticeable driving home at 5pm. I notice the sound going downhill at 35 mph, but goes away with light braking, Going over railroad tracks does not affect the noises. I'm thinking this could be worn bushings, strut mounts or who knows what?
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I have a 2009 Toyota Corolla and it's making a loud grinding metallic noise on the front left side. It does it while I drive the faster I go the louder it gets. When I turn to the left it makes it louder, when I turn right the noise decreases. PG&E have been breaking the roads by where I live and there's a lot of little rocks I drive thru. I'm wondering if that's the problem?? What do I do?
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I drive a 2006 Toyota Corolla, and I've noticed e a squeaky noise coming from my passenger side front wheel. The noise only occurs when I am accelerating the car and driving between 20-40 mph. As I accelerate, the squeaks increase in frequency. They disappear when I brake.
A mechanic replaced the front brake pads two years ago (15,000 miles ago) and also shaved the rotors. About a year later, the squeaks began. I brought the car into a different mechanic at that time (because I moved) and asked them to take a look. They checked the brakes and said they looked good. They attributed the noise to metallic brakes as opposed to ceramic and said the noise would go away in time. The noise has persisted, however, and is becoming more intense.
What is going wrong? Could this be a CV joint or wheel bearing issue? A rotor issue?
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I just noticed 2 rust spots on the back quarter panel in front of the wheel well on my Corolla. Then I looked on the other side, and found rust in the exact same spot. It looks like the rust is near some bolts that are holding on (what looks like) a small plastic mud flap (I'm not really sure if that is the correct technical name). Anyway, is that normal to have rust in the same spot on both sides, or is it defective? This is the only car I've ever purchased new so I was planning on keeping it, like, FOREVER. I think I've taken pretty good care of it so I plan to have it fixed. Just wondering if I should bring it to Toyota.
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My husband's 1991 Toyota Corolla goes into reverse when he first starts it in the morning but...then it won't go into reverse the next time (same day) he tries to start it.
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After replacing the fuel filter, O2 sensor, and checking plugs and wires and the rotor, my 91 toyota corolla is still sputtering and its driving me nuts.
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OK, my daughter bought a clunker. Engine compression tested good, and transmission shifted fine so I proceeded to fix the car. Everything went fine until I got to the passenger side axle. I've always reused the inboard "tulip", and have never pulled one. Until today. The boot on the remanufactured shaft would not fit over the old tulip. I rented a slide hammer with a cv remover attachment and removed the old tulip. I then installed the new shaft, using a hammer on the end of the shaft to reseat the new shaft in the transmission. I didn't hit it hard. Now the car makes a horrible groaning sound when I put it in reverse. When I shift back to park, it sounds like a gear grinding. Also, the car rolls when its in park as if it was in neutral. I'm totally stumped as to what I did wrong. Did I destroy the transmission???
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I have a question about my C Four with 16" wheels. When the steering wheel goes all the way to a stop there is a thunk that feels like metal on metal. It is like there is no rubber bump stops. If this is normal. I am used to cars that have a nice cushioned bump at the steering limits.
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I have a 1990 toyota celica. The parking attendant somehow locked the steering wheel and the key will no longer turn in the lock. I tried everything i could think of: turning the wheel whilst turning the key, putting car in all positions other than park and then turning the wheel and key, changing the key, etc....The steering wheel remains locked and will not unlock.
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My Toyota is leaking oil from above the oil pan, in the front. I think it is we're the crank shaft plate is. Do I have to pull the engine to replace the gasket
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I recently bought a 91 Ranger 4wd for my son. The guy I bought it from put new manual lock outs on it. every time I take the tire off on either side the hub comes with it! Is there a clip or retainer missing? If so what and where can I get one?
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I have driven my Venza V6 AWD for 1500 miles now. A lot of people commented the electric power steering feels numb.
When I am braking slowly (or lightly) to a stop because of a red light, I feel the steering wheel is kind of locked up and harder to steer compared to other Toyota I have driven (this is my fourth Toyota). When my steering wheel is not at exact 12:00 position (a few degrees off for example), I feel the tendency of the car move off from straight a head and I have to use a bit of force (more than the usual effortless power steering) to steer it straight. I am not sure if this is a normal behaviour or so called numbness of the Venza electric power steering or it is an alignment issue that needs to be corrected.
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Going down a steep loose gravel drive way, going maybe 5 miles per hour. About 50 feet before the stop sign we lightly applied the brakes and the front right wheel completely locked up. If we didn't turn into the grass we would of stopped in the middle of the busy street. We picked up speed when we applied the brakes, like we were on ice. When I got out, I could see the one long brake mark in the driveway. This happened on a paved road about 6 months ago, it had some loose gravel at the stop sign. I couldn't tell which wheel locked up at the time. This happened on snow in December to, twice. Since the ABS light never came on. Brake pads and rotors needed replacing about 9 months ago. Tires have been rotated, no change. Not sure what it could be. I disconnected the Abs fuse for now.
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2004 F350 150,000km ... I have a rattling/clicking sound from the front right wheel when the hub is not locked (Free) and I hit small holes or run over rough roads. the sound is gone when I lock the hub front hubs.
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Sometimes when i reverse and come to a full stop i sometimes hear a loud thunk..coming somewhere close to the right rear hard to tell since I am in the car when it happens, I'm due for my 10k soon..
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I was driving my car today, and I stopped at a stop sign. When I went to go, I pushed the gas, and my car revved up, moved forward, then all of a sudden it made a loud grinding noise (Like I was dragging metal sheets), and the gas stopped responding (but the engine was still running). The car still turns on, but whenever the gas is pushed, it doesn't go and makes that awful noise. What could be wrong?
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