Toyota - Corolla :: 1989 - Leaking Inside From Above And Onto Brake Pedal?
Jan 9, 2012
I have an '89 Corolla with a very odd leak. There is what seems to be engine fluid dripping on to the brake pedal. My oil level is good- no apparent drop in levels and it's clean- coolant is good, brake fluid is good. The leak smells a bit like engine oil, is dark gray/ black and slippery.
Local mechanic says it sounds like a bad heater core. (The heat is working great however.) I recently replaced the distributor cap and wires/ air filter as it was misfiring like nobody's business. Running fine now
This is a second car I bought a year ago to leave on the east coast for summers. it's been really reliable- ice cold AC, great heat, great gas mileage/. Did start to over heat once this summer, but not bad.
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My brake pedal squeaks when I release it, for the last two weeks. Does this mean I need maintenance, repair, or some oil?
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2013 Toyota Corolla... I drive it very gently. A friend drove it briefly and after that the brake felt a bit weird like the position had changed slightly or that the pedal was a bit loose. I tried touching it with my hand and realized that it moved from side to side. Touching it made it worse. I have no problems braking, the brakes work normally.
It's just that:1) When the brake itself is not in motion/stationary, the brake pedal wiggles a little.1) I can feel motion get transmitted through the brake now, like I'll feel it when the windshield wipers move or if I change from park into drive.
I'm guessing I just need to get the bolts/screws/etc tightened. Just afraid that if they work on it, they might make it worse (since touching it made it much worse), or that they might tighten the brake back into a different position than it was in before my friend drove the car.
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My brake pedal clicks when depressed, only at the start of pressing down on it. (This is a 2007 Corolla CE.) It only does this when the car is cold and started doing this during the very cold below freezing weather. The brake lights are all working, nothing else seems to be a problem -- brakes work fine, no vibration, etc. Brakes were checked out two months ago.
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I have a Toyota Corolla 2010 LE. When I'm driving, no matter how fast I drive, I feel a vibration sound. When I press brake pedal, it's worse than driving. I recently replaced front rotors and brake pads. I also replaced whole tires a month ago.
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I have a 1989 manual drive TOYOTA 4RUNNER, diesel. My mechanic has done everything, new head gasket, machined the head for warp, pressure tested the engine block, and the engine oil is still leaking into the radiator. My car used to have Air-condition but since it hasn't worked for over 5 years the compressor was removed, could this have caused the oil to leak after all those years.
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My 89 Corolla started overheating when I turn on the AC. If I don't use the AC, the temp. is fine. 2-3 min. after turning on AC, temp. gauge rises and I must turn off AC. My husband, a devout CT listener has some mechanical skills & ck'd it out. He replaced the fan relay, but that didn't fix it. History: the 1st time it happened, the AC was on and blowing cool air, suddenly, the air wasn't cool and I noticed the temp. rising and turned off the AC. I stopped and checked the radiator fluid and it was low, so filled the overflow with coolant. Drove home (30 min.) and it was fine.
A week later, same thing - I'm on the freeway, air is blowing cool, then not and heats up. Ck'd radiator - fluid level is fine. Problem was somewhat intermittent as it wasn't happening 'all the time'. Yesterday, same thing again on the way to see the dentist 40 min. out in mid-afternoon sweltering heat. Had to drive there and back with no AC - quite miserable. Replaced the thermostat not too long ago and the radiator also had to be replaced year before last. I have health issues and really can't handle the heat and fumes and must have AC in this climate. We can't afford to take it to a mechanic. If this car goes, them I'm car-less. It's a great car and keeps on going - 240,000+ miles.
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I have a 1989 Toyota Corolla SR5 AllTrac wagon, manual trans with 160k+ miles. It had been running ok - until I got an oil change. I am wondering if I should do the repairs to get it inspected - new tires, battery, driver-side mirror, and rust repair (small hole near rear wheel well, driver's door; sunroof has rust - that's not an inspection item but needs to be done). The rear-wheel differential has been making grinding/whining noise for about a year; it's probably time to rebuild. Back to the oil change - my car ran great, got the oil changed at Monro; then the car started dripping oil, then was very difficult to start and stalled at stops, even brief ones, also when any gas was applied.
I noticed a light grey smoke from the car on start-up, which went away. I first thought it just needed a tune-up, but when I saw the smoke, I thought there might be oil leaking into the valves. I love this car, but the body is really in need of work. The underneath is pretty solid. In the meantime, I still need a car. I thought of getting a small used gas-saving sedan, and putting some money into the All-Trac to use it for gardening, hauling stuff, etc. , and actually, even though a wagon, it's fun to drive. Can you tell I love my Rosie? My other option is to buy a car ... ick... I don't want car payments. I'm looking at a 2006 Subaru Forester with 42k today, am a bit wary of Subaru repairs, and the steep sticker price.
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This morning while driving with a/c on, water was coming out on the side of the center console. It's leaking a lot, that a spot is soaking wet.
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The passenger door key-lock on my Corolla is stuck, so the only way I can open that door is to unlock it from the inside. It had been sticking and hard to get it to work using the key in the lock for a while, but now it won't work at all. I opened the door panel and lubed everything that looked like it needs to be lubed, but that had no effect. The thing you pull to open/lock the door from the inside works a little smoother, and the inside handle that opens the door from the inside works smoother now so that's something at least. But opening a locked door from the outside with a key remains a no-go.
I tried spraying some WD 40 in there, and putting some WD 40 on the key and trying to unstick it that way, but the key-lock remains stuck in the upright position, won't budge at all by twisting/jiggling the key. Any luck unsticking a door key-lock ? Heat? Hammer? Ice? Different kind of lube? Cleanser? Swearing? Or is the only solution to replace the key-lock with a new one?
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I have a '97 Corolla with 198K miles... this week all of a sudden, it has a strange moisture issue. It rained some on Sunday and a little Monday morning. I got in the car to go to work, and there was fog on the inside of the instrument panel window--turning on the defroster fixed it, but that's the first time I've ever had to defrost my speedometer!Monday while I was at work, it rained a lot more.
I got in the car to go home, and it was very humid inside! I turned on the air and opened the windows for a minute, and all was fine. It hasn't rained since, but due to the moisture now the car smells pretty bad at first in the morning...I have to turn air on/open windows for a minute when I get in. What would allow moisture to get inside the instrument panel??
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I have a 2010 toyota camry that needs a parking brake adjustment. the car still stops with the transmission even if the parking brake pedal is pressed down. I changes the pads in the back and it seems to be a little better, but it's not as good as other Camry's I've been in. Where to look as far as the adjustments go? and possibly how if it's not the usual method.
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I have a 2000 Toyota corolla with about 170,000 miles and it is using about one quart of oil every 500 miles. The last couple places I took it to said the compression was bad in the number 4 cylinder. Another place said it was a leaking head gasket. Which is most likely, and is it worth getting it repaired given its age and mileage?
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I've got to replace a leaking front crankshaft oil seal. Haynes shows using a steering wheel puller with the two bolts installed, but without the center screw. Insert a socket and extension through the center screw hole. Hold the body of the puller with an adjustable to keep the crank pulley from turning while you loosen the pulley bolt. I've got an air impact. Would that hammer the pulley bolt loose without having to hold the pulley? I've also got a chain vise-grip, but I'm not sure yet if it would clear the other pulleys. Assuming I get this far, should I pry out the seal with a flat screwdriver wrapped in tape? Would it work to cut the rubber out of the seal first?
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The fuel filler vent line rotted off so I had the gas tank and fuel pump replaced in September. Drove the car for 2 months without a problem until last week.The car lost power then stalled. I smelled gas and found that there was a large amount of gas pouring out of the bottom of the vapor canister.I bought a new one (very expensive for a plastic can) and put it on. Drove the car a couple days and then it happened again. Someone told me not to over fill the tank but I never did. In fact, this doesn't happen right after I get gas. Its a couple days after I get gas that it happens. I had two different auto mechanics look at it and neither one of them could figure it out.
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I have a 2006 Toyota Corolla with 183,000 miles on it. My mechanic noticed that the right front strut was leaking oil. In addition to replacing it recommended getting a strut mount installed as well. Is this an necessary component at the age of my car or can just replacing the strut do the trick?
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I just had my oil changed and was told that my rack and pinion was leaking also my valve cover leaked I had the gasket change about a year ago an the leak is so slight it wont even show up in my dip stick, is it possible the valve cover leak is getting on the rack boot. Also can I change just the boot car has 15000mi in great shape an well maintained.....
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I have a 2005 Toyota Corolla with 312,000 miles. I was driving in extreme desert heat, uphill, ac off, and the car continuously stopped. Gauge did not show overheating. Engine light has been on because of the catalytic converter/exhaust system. Got some repairs. Now, it's doing what it originally did. With my foot on the gas pedal, driving along smoothly, suddenly it feels like I've just braked -- chugs a couple of times like it's going to stop, slows, then goes back to normal for a while. Continually doing that. Especially when it is very hot outside. Already had the ECU replacement from the recall.
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Toyota Corolla 93, manual transmission so there was a problem with idling, while it idles, the engine revs up but im not pressing the gas pedal at all. found out it the vacuum hose was broken. we fix it, buy a new one and now the engine dies out. change the air filter. The car still dies out. so the car either dies out or bad idling. what do i do?
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I have a 2003 Toyota Corolla with a leaking timing chain tensioner. I was able to locate a procedure for replacing the tensioner but it didn't say whether the no. 1 cylinder had to be @ TDC or not. What is the proper procedure for this repair?
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Over the past week I have noticed leaking brake fluid and after my STOP Brake failure light came on I topped off the brake fluid and it is down to a low level again. I also notice that the clutch pedal (manual) does not return all the way when the brake fluid is low and I assume they share the same fluid. I'm going to take it to my mechanic but could this be a clutch problem or just a fluid leak.
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