Toyota - Celica :: How To Remove Spark Plugs To Turn Crankshaft
Aug 10, 2011
I'm trying to turn the crankshaft by hand to verify my timing belt alignment, but meeting some resistance. is this because I have the spark plugs in? do i have to take them out to turn the crank? also, that little groove in the belt guide doesn't seem to line up with anything or get held by the rib on the crankshaft. does that matter, or have i got it installed wrong?
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I am changing my own spark plugs for the first time. I have a spark plug wrench, dielectric grease, anti-seize compound etc.
I have a Haynes manual for my 2002 Toyota Corolla. The book was written before Irridium plugs were used. Should I tighten the spark plugs to the same torque specifications as regular plugs? The book says 158 inch pounds. How do I know I have tightened them to the right amount?
How do I avoid cross threading the spark plugs? What happens if you cross thread the spark plugs (assuming the car seems to be running fine)? Would I need a new engine or expensive repair when it is time to replace the spark plugs again?
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I have a 95 Toyota Celica GT which started making a noise today. It does not seem to increase when the engine is revved. The crankshaft pulley seems to have a slight wobble, belt feels tight, does not appear worn. Does not matter if AC is on or off. No performance issues. I'm thinking harmonic balancer replacement.
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This past Sunday, I replaced the spark plugs on my 2008 Toyota Camry CE, following one of the sticky DIYs. My car has approximately 107,xxx miles.
Last night on my drive home from work my CEL came on. First time seeing a CEL light since my BMW days, . Luckily, I have a OBDII scanner at home and after running the scanner, it gave me the following trouble codes:
- P0101
- P0172
I went ahead cleaned the air filter (I have an Injen SRI installed).
After doing some research on the interwebs, I have concluded that this code has to do with the MAF. Time permitting, I am going to clean the MAF sensor later tonight. In the meantime I reset the CEL, to see if it will come on again.
My only question, which I am unable to find an answer to, is:
Can there be a possibility that the P0101 and P0172 trouble codes be related to me replacing the spark plugs, or is this just a mere coincidence?
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OK, well i have an old toyota pick up, One of the spark plugs ( the third cylinder) has some oily residue on it, indicating a problem with the piston. How bad could this be? Is it worth it to try and have fixed? I also am rebuilding my carb right now, so i am wondering if i is even worth continuing if the engine is messed up.
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My old 1996 Camry with 2200 cc 4 cylinder engine, frequently keeps losing power to the spark plugs. I have changed the fuel filter and the ignition coil. That did not work. I also noticed that the car was starting when I unplug and replug the primary wire plug to the ignition coil. So I have replaced the primary power plug with a six inch pigtail and a used plug purchased from a salvage yard. This is not working either. The Toyota dealer near my house want to replace the igniter and the Engine Control Module just to be sure that these are not the sources of problem. The dealer did not test these parts. So I refused to replace the parts without a proper test. I would like to test these parts. Is there a test available for the igniter and ECM that could be performed. I have access to a lot of tools. I need a schematic and/or test to test these components.
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1987 Toyota Celica GTS 2.0 manual Transmission The Problem ... The power cable to alternator sparked on the side of the engine when I was connecting it. I did not think the battery cable was connected at the time but it was.. Now I have NO SPARK I have changed all the fuses at the battery could not find any that were blown but still changed them and checked all the fuses under kick panels none were blown. What should I look for now?
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I recently was given a 96 Toyota Celica 1.8L Auto 7AFE and I have been trying to troubleshoot some problems.
It started a year ago when my brother drove it to work and then after work it would not start back up. It sat for a while and now its mine. Problem is I was not getting any spark at all a while back when we tested it. I thought maybe the distributor. The other day it happened to just randomly start after a year of not starting. It made a small pop in the cylinder then boom ran just great until it warmed up and proceeded to shut down, would not restart. Checked the spark and it was very weak (yellow) and just seemed to be a slow spark, not firing as fast as I would think. Today I put a new distributor with a new cap and rotor in and boom she fires up immediately. Let it warm up fully shut it down, restarts fine, shut it down again and now it will not restart. Last time I tested fuel was fine, seems as if I am getting an intermittent spark and usually starts when it cools off.
Not sure what to do now, where to look. The wires seem ok with no corrosion but I have only worked on the 2.2L and I am lost!
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I have a 22R sitting in my celica and my problem is that when I was driving home from school I stopped at a stop sign..... Well I started to take off from the stop sign and as I did Spark plug three blew out of the cylinder... (WTF) well anyways I started it back up and drove it 2 blocks to where I live and it backfired and now I have no spark to any of my wires or spark plugs I checked the Main Engine Relay works just fine, For fuel problems anyways.. other than that I believe my timing skipped during that bad backfire so Woohoo for that but any other problems that could have caused "no spark" like my igniter blew out or my coil.. I would like to know where the fuse is (if any) for the igniter.
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My 1987 Toyota Celica ST will not seem to turn over. When it has the push button addition that takes the power from the battery straight to the seloniod it works. But when i set the starter back up to the ignition switch and set it up factory style it will not spin over. it sends the 12 volts needed to start it but yet will not turn it over.
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How to remove a crankshaft pulley like this one? It doesn't have any holes for bolts, to hold some soft of breaker bar in place.
Pulley.JPG ....
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I have a 94 Corolla with 239 K After pulling into my drive way and turning the car off I went back to start it ..Car turned over but no start ...ok backed the car out of the drive used the other car . Came back the next day car started pulled it back into the driveway ....Went to start it again later that day ..no start this happened for a couple of days ..It would start and then it wouldn’t..... Checked the fuel pump ..its not working ..The relay is good ..
There is power coming into the fuel pump but. Only one lead with power ...I power the fuel pump direct and it works ...I take it to a shop to have them look at it and they say I have no spark and that there is power going to my fuel pump ..he said there was power but he did not say if the fuel pump worked ...The gas gauge works but the fuel pump still .
So the fuel pump works if i power it direct and I have no spark ..so I could change the distributor & coil and go back to checking ground wires to the fuel pump BUT anything else going on that might be causing these issues. The car was running perfect before this happened.
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83' Toyota Celica GT with an automatic transmission. The problem that we are having is that we can't get it to turn over. All it wants to do is click at us. As far as we both can tell all cables and wiring harnesses are plugged in and there aren't any loose wires. We've had the alternator and starter checked and they both passed. Also there is a new battery with new terminals installed so that's not going to be the problem. In all of the reading that I've done I keep hearing about a neutral start switch. What is it? And where is it located? I believe I've found a spot where it should be but there isn't anything there. And we've put all of the parts in the car back where they go.
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I have a 1990 toyota celica. The parking attendant somehow locked the steering wheel and the key will no longer turn in the lock. I tried everything i could think of: turning the wheel whilst turning the key, putting car in all positions other than park and then turning the wheel and key, changing the key, etc....The steering wheel remains locked and will not unlock.
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I have a 1996 Toyota Celica automatic transmission with just under 160k miles. It's always been a great car, very reliable and very few problems. A few days ago, it started having trouble starting (engine would turn over and not fire, usually starts after four or so tries) and then will bog down considerably while taking off from a stop until it shifts into second gear. No problem idling, not stalling.
Mechanic changed fuel filter, checked fuel pressure, plugs, cam and ignition timing, catalytic converter - all okay. Thinks it might be the distributor but would take a few hundred dollars worth of work to diagnose, plus whatever expense if it is the distributor, and obviously more if it is not. Might it be the distributor?
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I am having a problem where my spark plugs keep going out. I changed all the plugs, wires and coil pack on my 2001 Windstar and within a few months my van was running on 4 or 5 cylinders instead of 6 and this isn't the first time it has happened.
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I have a 2001 saturn sl 2 and I noticed some oil around all the spark plugs. The engine seems to be loosing oil a little bit as well, about a quart a week. Its not buring it or leaking that I noticed.
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'03 Solara 4 cyl, 135K repl. Fuel pump, 45# press ok, NO scan tool code(s), turns over fine, no spark 2 plug. Started/ran fine before fuel pump change.
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I was having some problems and one of my friends told me to post up here before I went and saw my mechanic. So my car isn't starting (its a 06 r32). Now I've gone through a whole list of things and what I have worked out is that it is the spark plugs not firing (none of them are) although they are all brand new and were working not too long ago.
Battery is fine and fuses look good no warning symbols on the dash so I'm at a bit of a loss as to what it could be. Relays? Coils?
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I was thinking about change my spark plugs on friday so today I went to check the ones the car have open the hood took the engine cover out and the ones on the sides, I see 6 wires 4 going to the left side(air intake side) and 2 going to the right side (where the oil fil cap is) so I say think this should be the spark plugs wires. I take one of the left side wires out and is cover in oil so I keep taking the other out one by one and all of them have a lot of oil I can't even see the sparks plugs. All the wires have numbers on top 1 to 6. I say this have to be the wires cause I don't see any other place where the plugs can be located at. The car is a 99 v6 fwd...
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I would like to have a look at the condition of the ignition plugs in my V8 Phaeton.
According to the service plan, it's already time to change them and it also seems that the car has lost some power when accelerating.
Is it even possible to change them with the 'usual' knowledge (knows how to change a tire and so on) or should I better go to a professional.
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