Toyota - Celica :: Bogs Down And Throttle Does Not Respond After Driving For About 15 Miles?
Jul 21, 2013
After driving my car for about ~15 miles it bogs, throttle doesn't respond, if anything makes it worse. And then she dies. I've cleaned my MAF sensor and checked for spark, cleaned the connectors.
The only symptoms it seems to have is-when my A/C is on, the idle will jump from ~1000 RPMs to 700RPMs to 900RPMS etc. Its all over the place every few seconds.-bad gas mileage
My culprits right now are maybe -the fuel filter getting clogged up, -or the fuel pump overheating? (even with a full tank) -or my O2 sensors. Do O2's overheat? I feel like it could be that, given the horrible gas mileage I'm getting.
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I got a Toyota Celica 2001 recently from my dad and when I put the throttle all the way to the grown it barley speeds up as if it has some kind of throttle limiter so I can't speed everything else is fine it's a manual I just can't give it gas if I want to speed up really fast or race whatever the case is. How to remove the limiter or whatever else it is ?
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The engine turns and air blows out of the throttle body. My fuel pump and TPS is good. What else could it be?
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I just purchased 8/1/2012 a GEM of a garage kept 95 Celica Hatchback ST with 5 speed manual transmission.
The car was registered and driven until 8/2008 and garaged until 8/1/2012. The proud owner started it and drove it around the block so the car has not been completely idle for 4 years but very little miles driven. 165K miles on this baby. The car started right up and drove like a dream during my test drive and on the sweet drive home.
This morning 1st and 2nd gear acted like it was not getting enough gas (bogged down) and jerked as if I did not know how to drive a stick. But once it gets going is fine on 3rd, 4th and 5th gears. The car idles fine and accelerates fine when not in gear. I reached 80 on the interstate with no issues at all. Once at the stop light the low gear issues persist. Not clear as to what it could be.
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I drive a 1993 Chevrolet 1500 v6, 2wd. I have changed every part I can think of related to the fuel system. When I try to accelerate, the engine hesitates, it gets louder, and my truck will jerk. Sometimes, however, it is responsive. Often times, it will be responsive for a few minutes and start to decelerate.
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With normal driving or semi spirited, once i change gears the car seems to bog down initially then pick up slowly but then it seems fine, but if I am actually getting on it threw the gears it doesn't seem to happen. its very noticeable sense the throttle response is now and it used to be great. If I let off the gas then get back on it at a lower rpm it seems to happen as well. it just feels like it dips down then picks up. i first noticed it when i down shifted to 5th the car seemed to hiccup and then went on, now its seems to be in every gear, I am not getting any codes or lights what so ever and the car drives fine other than that....
Mods: C2 flash, eip exhaust, intake.
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I have a 1990 Toyota Celica, and I've been having trouble with it not starting after driving. There are no symptoms when the car is running, aside from a very slight rough idle. The car starts fine after sitting for 3-4 hours, but for short trips where it's off for under 1-2 hours, it cranks but will not start. The cranking also seems weak unless I floor the gas while trying to start, and sometimes it will eventually start if I hold the gas while cranking. It always starts at the beginning of the day.
This leads me to believe I'm dealing with a flooded engine, but I'm not sure how to diagnose why. I thought it might be leaky fuel injectors, but wouldn't that cause symptoms when running?
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I have a 2000 Toyota Celica GT-S.
When ever it is idleing and i hit the gas it bogs like its going to stall but then revs up. Difficult to get out of first because of the bog might stall it. My check engine light came on and it said rich fuel as well as oxygen sensor. Do the oxygen sensor would cause this because their are 2 and are expensive if I change it and turns out not to be the prob.
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My truck will start and idle but when I engage it into a gear, whether it is drive or reverse, it will start to bog down and not respond to throttle. Sometimes the truck will stall other times it will just bog down then the rpms shoot up and the truck will run normal after. If the truck does die it will fire right up and have no issues and run great. Now whenever I stop and shutoff the truck the next time I start it up it will go through the exact same process. It doesn't matter how long the truck has been shut off. Could be a minute could be a day. Truck has 177k miles, in the last year it has given a code for camshaft sensor going bad and has been replaced twice. Have also had the catalytic converter and the O2 sensors replaced within the last 6 months. Not sure if this matters but was told my truck is California Emissions by the garage that replaced the cat.
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2010 Prius. There may be times when you attempt to accelerate from a stop on snow or ice where the throttle will not respond. The reason for this is that our hybrid vehicles have 100% of the electric engine's torque available at 0-1,500 RPM unlike our gas-only vehicles, where maximum torque is available around 4,000 rpm. If the Traction Control System detects wheel spin it will inhibit the throttle because if the tires were to spin and then suddenly gain traction, the torque would be so great that damage could occur to the transaxle.
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My Elantra has been doing this for a while: While running (idle, driving slow, driving fast, doesn't matter) the car will lose power and will not respond to the throttle. It does this a few times in a row usually and then starts running normally. When running normally it runs perfectly fine, nice smooth low idle and good acceleration.
I started by doing a basic tune up: plugs, wires, oil change, air filter. No change. I then swapped the throttle position sensor. No change. You can see the symptom on youtube here: [URL] ....
What could be causing this?
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My wife's 2005 Sienna is a very reliable vehicle. But occasionally when I drive it a fair distance--50 miles or so, but not always that far--the check engine light will come on. (It's something vague about emissions, but isn't it always?) And then a day or so after my wife drives it again, the light goes off. The van seems to run fine at all times. So is it something I'm doing when I drive it?
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The fuel pump has just been replaced with no change. Exhaust has been unbolted before converter to rule out catalytic converter. It ran the same.
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I have a 90 toyota celica st. I was driving it the other day and it died on me while driving... twice! The second time was going down a steep hill and it was freaken scary for a minute as the breaks were not working, the car started again and I was able to stop! Anyway I know enough about cars that once your car starts it should not die. Could it be the alternator? It seems to start up just fine. I did notice though that when the car died on me both times I was taking a pretty sharp right turn. And when it died every thing blinked twice then out went everything. Im sure that it is a code for something but I do not have the owners manual as I was not the original owner. I just started it up today again and it makes a weird clicking noise before I even turn the key.
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1986 Ranger 2.3 inline 4
I just recently bought an 86 Ranger from a friend. It had recently stopped working and had no desire to fix it. So here I am. The truck will sit in park and rev all day long, once its in drive it idols fine and moves its self down the street. The problem occurs when I apply throttle. It begins to bog down and I cannot get past 20mph. I have replaced the fuel regulator and also I took the tank down and replaced the fuel pump. The fuel filter is two months old, and the throttle response sensor is two weeks old.
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I have had the absolute worst experience with my 2010 Toyota Sienna that has 66K miles. The transmission gears seized (completely locked up) while I was driving down the road, causing such friction/tension that it exploded through the top of the cover of the transmission. Parts of the transmission were falling out of the car and the transmission fluid completely emptied onto the road. This created an incredibly dangerous situation.
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I have a '99 passat 1.8t Tiptronic. 106,000 miles. Recently I've been getting a bad hesitation when accelerating from a stop. At half throttle the car kinda bogs down and hesitates then as the rpms get higher it seems to clear out and accelerate smoother. At the same time the car doesn't have the same sack it used to. I checked he plugs, found them very fouled. Replaced them and the problem got a little better, but definitely still there. There has to be a reason the plugs fouled. There is no CEL so I don't really know what to check first.
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Back in July some time I went out to my Accent (00' 1.5L) to go to work and it didn't want to turn over. Normally it's quick to start. So I turned off the A/C and it started right up. I went about my way. The next day, same thing happened. I thought it might be a camshaft position sensor, figured I'd be ok and headed to work. Got about 2 miles from the house and it died. So I pull over and try to start, no dice. Can't get it to start to save my life. We have it towed to the house and park it. This happened about 3 days before we closed on a new house, and having other cars we decided this needed to stay on the back burner. About a month later, I do some troubleshooting (not enough) and decide that the fuel pump is bad. I don't hear it coming on when I try to start the car. So, I replaced it. Turn the key, still no noise from the fuel pump. So, I leave it sitting for a couple of more months. During this time I've done more research than I care to admit regarding this car. I find out there's a Fuel Pump Check under the hood. I checked all relays/fuses before replacing the fuel pump. But didn't thing to test the fuel pump check. My loss there.
So, Saturday was a nice day I spent about 5 hours with my father and brother-in-law working on the car. First thing we do is Put 12v to it and the fuel pump comes right to life. So, we know it's not the fuel pump. Check the connections with a multimeter, we have voltage where we should and grounds where we should. So relay is working, wires are good. Finally we find a schematic of the fuel system and go hunting for the MFI (Engine) Control Relay. Well, I don't know how it happened since it's inside the car, but when we pulled it, it was rusty as all get out. We replaced it and the car still didn't want to start. Checked for fuel pressure at the rail, yup, we got fuel. So we sprayed some starter fluid into the intake and it finally fired up and ran. But it's not running how it ran when it died on me back in July. This car has been extremely reliable until this point. It's not a race car, but it will do 55-60 comfortably and get 38mpg doing it. Well, after it starts it's idling very rough, surging from 500-1500 rpm. We let it run for about 30 minutes and it continues to surge the entire time but doesn't stall. So I take it out for a test drive, as long as I only give it partial throttle 10-15% it gets up to speed in an acceptable amount of time. But anything more than that and it bogs down and will not accelerate. So I drive it home and park it.
The next day, I change the spark plugs, fill it up with some fresh gas, top off all the fluids and throw some Lucas fuel treatment into the tank. It started much better, but still surges, just not as badly as before. And the acceleration problem remains. I'm going to replace the wires next and see how things go and I've also ordered a new MAF and some other goodies. Oh, car has 133,000 miles on it. I do not know if the timing belt was ever changed and nobody in my family remembers if it was done either. I'm leaning towards being on borrowed time and the timing kit is one of the goodies mentioned. So, I've got a busy weekend coming up. But, I have to get this car back on the road so that my wife who is now commuting 140miles round trip per day can save some money on gas.
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Yesterday, I was driving on the highway at a 65-70 miles per hour (basically pushing it for my '96 RAV4). Suddenly, the car turned off. The engine cut out and the battery and oil signal came on. It did not lurch as if I had popped the clutch, nevertheless, I went to restart it as I was going down the hill and it made it home for the next 40 miles.
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Recently on two occasions I pressed the accelerator clear to the floor with no response. After shifting into Park then back into Drive it drove normally for about a week. Now it has stalled out and was very stubborn to restart. Once running, the accelerator will sluggishly rev the engine while in Park, but in Drive, will not respond. TPS sensor or something else?
2004 6.0 Diesel, 75K miles, no mods, well maintained.
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Yesterday when i was driving on highway on my dash board the lights came on: the check engine light, master light, brakes lights. After driving couple of miles my car completely shut down. I took the exit and after that the car didn't start at all. Even i couldn't start the ignition to connect my OBD scaner to read the codes. Now I even can't do something to read the codes or to turn the engine on somehow, what to do.
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